Are jet sizes proportional to engine size?

StarDiero75":16mgp80l said:
wsa111":16mgp80l said:
What octane fuel are you using? What is your cranking compression with the throttle wide open??
As far as you changing springs, you are in an area beyond your knowledge.
You need your distributor done by a professional.
To start what are all the specs on your engine??
I use 87 octane which may be my issue.

Don't know in compressions, I've never checked since it runs good.

Ok i won't touch it then.

It should be all stock internally. I got the VI funnel adapter for the weber, CRT PERFORMANCE HEI with iridium plugs, with a 65 3.03 toploader 3spd, and a 2.8 Ford 8".

I'll check compression ratio next time I'm at my dad's, so tuesday.
Fill the tank with at least 89 octane or even 91. With your crap west coast fuel thats most of your problem.
 
Chad this is a HEI & all the springs are on top. Do not use those light springs they are for a DS11 or a points distributor.
 
o0OPp, right !
"...they are for a DSII or a points distributor...."
(Thnx, didn't C that).
 
I need to fill up anyway. I'll give 89 a try. If still, I'll do 91.

I will have to make due with the timing curve till the car gets some down time either during my T5 conversion or disk brake conversion. I'll send you, Bill, a pm then on getting it done.

Thanks a lot guys!
 
StarDiero75":x650s6vj said:
I need to fill up anyway. I'll give 89 a try. If still, I'll do 91.

I will have to make due with the timing curve till the car gets some down time either during my T5 conversion or disk brake conversion. I'll send you, Bill, a pm then on getting it done.

Thanks a lot guys!
Bump the timing up another 2 degrees with the higher octane fuel in it.
When ever you are ready. Bill
 
And be carefull how you use your existing vacuum supply to the distributor. I'm not saying one is better than the other, only that when the throttle is closed or near closed, the secondary barrel will be adding fuel air mix to the engine. Often your air fuel is sytomatic of what vacuum source you tap into.

Ported vacuum can create psycotic swings in air fuel ratio as throttle position changes.


ported_vs_manifold_vacuum_Throttle_position_1.jpg
 
pardon the interjection ~

I wanted to send my condolences to our NZ mate as the crazyness has spread to down there. The 4 doz murders by the USA copying gun-man saddens me. I hope that is the last of it U see down there.
 
wsa111":2ocq54sf said:
StarDiero75":2ocq54sf said:
I need to fill up anyway. I'll give 89 a try. If still, I'll do 91.

I will have to make due with the timing curve till the car gets some down time either during my T5 conversion or disk brake conversion. I'll send you, Bill, a pm then on getting it done.

Thanks a lot guys!
Bump the timing up another 2 degrees with the higher octane fuel in it.
When ever you are ready. Bill
I'll try that. I'll go to 89 first and see if it goes away first.
 
So i moved up to 89 octane and haven't noticed the ping. I'll look at bumping the timing up 2 more degrees.

Anyhow, i decided I'd take a look at the plugs, its strange, they're lean at front and get righer as i move back.

I'll be checking pressures in all the cylinders on tuesday hopefully.
 

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one thru 6?
I'd say throw em out.
All way too burnt frm "too hot".
 
chad":3gx3c964 said:
one thru 6?
I'd say throw em out.
All way too burnt frm "too hot".
How do i know I'm getting a colder plug though? And what should i look at getting?

I feel like this may also be a big contributor to why the car pings.
 
no, I ment the opposite. Ur timing or other reason for: "motor's too hot" way lean. (not plugs).
Follow what the others say plus put in the suggested (not irridum or whatever those R) plug. Do the plug chop for engine reading.
####################
tech archive:
NGK - The larger the number after the dash the colder the plug is. Example a R5671A-7 (a good street/strip plug) is a cold plug where a R5671A-10 is a very cold plug used for large 400hp and up nitrous and other power adder applications).

Autolite - The larger the last digit in the part number, the hotter the plug is. Example a AR3935 (good street/strip plug) is hotter than a AR3932 plug which is very cold used for lots of nitrous.

Champion - Typically Champion numbers in the same series the larger the number the hotter the plug.
#####################

This way U have a known 'to start with' AND a known 'to go to' if needing - that which U indicate "a hotter or colder plug".
I don't think you're there yet tho.
 
Too lean a mixture & detonation. Looks like some oil buildup on some of the plugs.
What brand plugs & number. They look like NGK 7510??
Thats what i run in my engine & i have 9.4 compression, but the A/F is spot on & have no deposits.
 
wsa111":1vwintso said:
Too lean a mixture & detonation. Looks like some oil buildup on some of the plugs.
What brand plugs & number. They look like NGK 7510??
Thats what i run in my engine & i have 9.4 compression, but the A/F is spot on & have no deposits.
Yes they are. i just checked.

Would you recommend i use a different plug or just get replacements of these ones?
 
enrichen the A/F mixture, put in new plugs & ck new plugs after a plug chop, is my suggestion.
 
:unsure: x2 oil deposits likely your valve guides are worn out / loose! How many miles on that set of plugs? :nod:
 
The NGK 7510 is an iridium center electrode plug. They are excellent for a NA engine.
They do not tolerate detonation. The center electrode if broken off is not friendly to piston crowns.
Till you get everything straightened out you may just want to use Autolite 45's & gap them at .045"-.048"
You need to run a compression check to see if you broke a top ring or damaged a ring land.
 
Blow by and oil dilution of the air fuel mix, and things like timing chain wear which are common to our small sixes will alter your warming up tune, and you'll see that on your air fuel gauge if you do 5 minute verses 15 minute light off air fuel tests over the same territory. Nothing you can do to the jets, air correctors and e tubes will help much with that.

Bill and I like to do a cold cranking compression test, and an 8 hour or 24 hour static leak down test to baseline the internals are ok.

Then check that the vacuum advance is stable and the static advance is not hanging up, and is suited to the engine tune. Even re-routing the vacuum line can make massive change in how you set up the curb idle and lean cruise and transitions.


Once you got uniform, repeatable advance figures, and you know the cylinders are holding an 80% leak down, and as long as the cold cranking comps between cylinders are stable within +/- 15% (that covers your lifter preload or clearance, cam condition), then you can have fun base-lining your tune safely without going on a wild goose hunt.

The basic work you've done is fine. Plug reading teed into your wide band will tell you more about engine condition.

Enjoy getting to know how your engine ticks. I'm not a wide band guy, I like the basics, because a wide band is a seriously sharp piece of kit that needs a lot of brain in the head verses Seat of the Pants "Rectal Checks". Going to a wide band normally takes your

1. tingling palms,

2. 4500-5200 Hz hearing where the start of audible knock happens, and

3. butt-o-meter off the feeling of lean miss-fire and transitional responses. These happen in moderate grades, where and engine labors, and you can tune for elapsed times between station points.

Your five senses need to be tuned into how the combustion process works, and Color Tune, Narrow Band, and Plug readings at wide open throttle on cut ignition teach you a lot more than a Wide Band used first.

You have to spend much more time, and a wide band forces you to work at depth. I worry about safety in that enviroment, but a cell phone is no different.

The 6th sense for tuning is putting all the the things together. A wide band won't hurt ultimately, but your suddenly a NASA technician now Ryan.

Old car tuners were forced to take a step back. A wide band forces you to analyse the charts, and that takes your eyes off a vibrating hood, a harmonic tap that your ass or feet feel, or the kangaroo hop and pig rooting an engine exhibits. When my teacher, hot off the Ford Service Technican courses, had me setting up engines, it was always exhaust gas Co's, and then a quick test run, and revise. He'd tell me about what a lean missfire is, and how you checked your mean best torque ignition setting.

I'm not against a Wide Band. It just forces you to stop flying the engine tune by the seat of your pants. I'm sure Bob Wallace (Kiwi guy who de-tuned the 400 hp at 9000 rpm LP350 engine to a 320 at 7500 rpm road car engine at Lamborghini), I'll be he used a Wide Band, but I'll bet when he sanitized a V12 engine tune, he used all his senses, and worked from Ignition, Plugs, and then Weber tune basic, then when he had it in ballpark, a quick O2 sensor up the exhaust on a rolling road. Or a 170 mph smash over the Alps to France....


Anyway, Your in the Big Time, and listen to Bill and others that have had a go with a Wide Band. Its a wild ride!
 
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