I have read this thread more times than I can count. It has a bunch of information that is applicable to me and my current build, and covers a variety of topics: Weber 32/36 (Holley 5200) jetting/tuning, Tuning with wideband O2 sensor, timing curve (an HEI was what the OP was using), and Spark plug recommendations. This is great stuff for someone just starting their upgrade (Weber/Holley carb specific).
I thought I would consolidate some of the more useful stuff into one comment on this post...
From Powerband:
"I posted previously that I obtained a brand new - old stock 5200 spec'ed for use by a 170CID (Capri 2.8 V6). I received it today and opened it up to see what what size jets it has.
Primary / Secondary
Idle Jets - 65 / 50
Air Bleeds - 190 / 180
Mains - 171 / 477 (Yes that's right 477) I guaged the 477 to @ .071" (that's 1.80... in mm)
from @2010 post:
I run the Holley / Weber version of the 32/36 progressive on a big log head through $14 - 2X1 adapter. The 5200 was offered by many manufacturers in many cars and many versions like the Weber... (@185-250CFM) , ( '63 Falcon waggin / 71-170 / T5-3.50 rear)
A clean "rebuilt" 5200 of questionable origin ran with typical off-idle bog. No difference with bigger or smaller jets. Found an Ebay carb - dirty/as used Capri 2.8 liter (170cid) spec 5200 and 170 ran great as-is dirty and all. I swapped in the jets to clean ‘bog’ carb and still ran like crap, I then put ‘bog’-carb jets in 2.8 spec 5200 and it ran with no bog at all.
(Twelve years in 2018) … Five years later 170 still runs great... Smooth consistent idle, economical (primary Bbl) light cruise performance and decent interstate ramp 2Bbl max-CFM performance.
> my 170 has stock bottom end/cam but big valve head work running @ 10:1 CR with decent mileage (on 93 octane) .. > Direct mount mod is a great performance option, but for MPG/daily driver, probably a simple 2X1 adapter is viable option ."
From WSA111 (Bill):
"You can't tune the engines on stands
First try to get a smooth idle with the idle screws close to 13-13.5.
Second you cruise @ 60 mph area & achieve an A/F reading of close to 14.7. This would be the main jet size.
Third cruise around the neighborhood 15-20 mph & shoot for an A/F 13.5-14.25 area. If too rich you need a smaller idle jet.
Fourth take it out & start from a stop all the way up to 80-100 mph if you can do it safely @ WOT & go for an A/F 12.5-13.1.
This is controlled by the jet or orifice under the power valve on a Holley or Autolite. The small end of the metering rod if it has one.
If you are doing a 4 barrel block the secondaries so they wont open & do all of the above, except WOT limit at 4000 rpms.
Then let the secondaries open & adjust the secondary jet @ WOT 80-100 mph & again go for 12.5-13.1
Even running a K & N air filter it can richen the mixture .2-.3 @ WOT.
I installed a brand new AC Delco on my engine & even at idle the A/F richened by .5
What i am saying the K & N is the only AF i know that has the least restriction.
Be advised that a lean mixture & high air temperature can promote detonation.
A rich mixture can tolerate more advance & loves cold weather."
"The NGK 7510 is an iridium center electrode plug. They are excellent for a NA engine.
They do not tolerate detonation. The center electrode if broken off is not friendly to piston crowns.
Till you get everything straightened out you may just want to use Autolite 45's & gap them at .045"-.048"
You need to run a compression check to see if you broke a top ring or damaged a ring land."
From Econoline:
"Assuming you aren't running it lean, you need to look at your mech advance. Or total advance. If you can get your hands on a dial back timing light get it and see where you're at. I fought an annoying pinging problem forever and ultimately found I was putting 42 degrees in pretty quick(by 2-22K) plus whatever the vacuum advance still wanted. I'm running hi grade w/ 9.6:1 compression in a 250 at sea level. Your 200 shouldn't be pinging. The stock setup in my distributor was a 15L on the small weight. That put me at 30 degrees all in, add 12 degrees initial, plus whatever vacuum is available and you can imagine it may hit 50 degrees or more. The vacuum advance can put in as much as 17-18 degrees or more full tilt. I welded the weight and then filed it to a 13L, ie. 26 degrees, and it fixed all my problems with pinging. I had the vac diaphragm turned to full delay to try and help, but have backed that all the way off as well. I also had drilled and threaded a hole for a long set screw to catch the slot on the arm and limit the vac advance to <11."
Useful links:
Weber tuning-
http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/adjust.htm
HEI curve kit-
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/MSD-8428 ... 04184.html
Wideband tuning (via jalopyjournal)-
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/thr ... e.1105050/
Thank you to StarDiero75 aka Ryan (although he's moved on significantly from this stuff) and the rest of the contributors. You have been a big help to me.
-Shawn