Always something...Leaking Radiator

This weekend I pulled my coupe out to begin some interior work and I decided to wash it before I started. While I was washing it (left it running because it hadn't been started in a few weeks) my radiator started leaking from several pin holes. So, now in addition to interior work I get the chance to upgrade the cooling system. In all honesty, I'm excited to be able to update the radiator and fan. I have read through several post on here and I was planning on going with the following electrical fan setup:

Fan: SPAL MediumProfile Series -1516
16" Cooling Fan
Straight Blade - Pull
Specifications:
A: Length 16.3"
B: Depth 2.48"
C: Width 15.75"
CFM: 1604

Radiator: Should I go with a 2 or 3 row radiator? I was thinking about going with a 3 row. What are the pros and cons of going with either? I know the 2 Row will give me more room between the fan and the engine pulley, but is that the only benefit? What are the Cons of going with a 2 Row?

I was thinking about going with a Champion Aluminum Radiator, either part # EC259 (@ Row) or #CC259 (3 Row)

Thermostat Relay Kit: Relay185 Single-LF
Is the relay kit from Champion with the 185*/170* operating temp optimal for I6's?

Thanks for any help and I apologize if I'm asking beginner questions.

Howdy ssg66stang:

The advantages of a two row are lighter, less wide (or deep) and usually less cost. Without knowing your engine needs and driving conditions I'm at a bit of a loss to advise you on which will meet your cooling needs better. With the auxillary thermostat and fan I'm guessing a two row will meet your needs- with less weight on the front end and less impact on your wallet.

Will you be driving in alot of traffic- stop and go? In high temperature- like 90 degrees and up? Is this an automatic trans car or standard trans? How has your original radiator handled cooling? Is it a two row?

We need more information to be able to give sound advice. So, keep it coming.

Adios, David

Stick with a copper/brass radiator.It weighs a bit more than aluminum construction but it will cool much better than aluminum.However,any decent radiator shop will be able to repair it(copper/brass) if it becomes necessary.
Also, you could just have your present radiator re-cored very easily.If you have had no overheating problems with the present radiator,just stick with the stock core.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

David, This is my current setup:

66' 200 cid block w/ 69' 250 head, top end rebuild, valve job, milled head for a 9.5:1 CR, Cliffords long tube headers, Weber 38 carb, and dual exhaust, automatic C4 transmission

I live in Spring, TX (near Houston) so it does get hot and humid during the summers. She's not my daily driver but I do want reliability. The original radiator always ran a little hot.

Thanks

HOwdy Back:

All things considered, I'd go with Leo's suggestion and get the stock radiator rebuilt. I'd also replace your hoses, all of them. Good luck.

Adios, David

Ok sounds good. I'll have to find a shop that can repair my old radiator.

Can you explain why it's better for me to go this route (other than cost benefits) please? Do electric fans not cool as well?

Thanks

ssg66stang":2m64azef said:

Do electric fans not cool as well?

Click to expand...

You'll find a boil out, rodding, & re-paint cheeper & better (C above posts) than the modern day alu ones. I "got a new " radiator thru this process for $65 this winter.

Ele fans (if U can rig ele & mount'em) save HP & do better fordin a river (if 4WD like me as we shut em off then). Read up thru our search function (above, below the big blue boxes & to right) on Tarus ele fan swap after pullin ur radiator while watin for its 'redo'.

A recore likely won't be cheaper, but you get what pay for. It won't be much more than a new alum radiator. I'll echo the sentiment, brass/copper cores are repairable, conduct better and last longer than aluminum. You can still go to an electric fan and free up some power/mileage on the highway.

I hate to disagree with all the posts above. But, my old brass/copper radiator did not cool like my new Northern Aluminum with 1" tubes. For me the proof was driving in 100+ degree weather in traffic. Once i switched to the aluminum the car runs cool.

Below is just one example of copper vs aluminum.
https://www.dewitts.com/blogs/news/1475 ... ool-better

There's no doubt that a large 2-row will cool better. My 2-row w/ 1 1/8" cores does an amazing job. If you do decide to get a new aluminum radiator, I agree with Marco that a large core 2-row is definitely the way to go vs a 3 or 4 row w/ small cores. I think it's more of a if it broke type situation. I was putting a 250 in a little tiny box that had cooling issues to begin with. If I could have gotten it in copper/brass it would be even better imo.

Howdy ssg66stang:

"Can you explain why it's better for me to go this route (other than cost benefits) please?"
The ability to transfer heat is better with the original materials than aluminum. The fitting of the original radiator is a bolt in/out. Original hoses fit.

"Do electric fans not cool as well?"
YES, If you choose an electric fan that pulls/pushes enough air as a stock radiator, it will cool as well as a stock fan. AND, an electric fan operating with a thermostat control will be superior to a stock, belt driven fan in that it only operates when it is needed. The majority of the cooling needs for a fan is at idle/low speed traffic situation. Once at speed, a fan is less needed. On a cold/cool morning or evening a fan is not needed at all. The engine will warm up to operating temp quicker and better without a fan. An engine driven fan steals power. A thermostat controlled/operated electric fan gives the best of both worlds. That's my two cents for what it's worth.

Adios, David