My Budget 250 build
- Thread starter lavron
- Start date
Sorry I I do not know for sure about the 250 - Main bolts.lavron":3fgqufqe said:
I know you can weld...If you have any decent amount of threads past the nut when the main is torqued down you could weld a short bolt to one end of another nut and the tighten it down with lock tight making a stud.
I see.lavron":27t1lta1 said:
Did you hafta buy the whole set just for the one.
I'm tryin to rig up a stud & two bolts (4 ?) that will capture the lll tab
on the p/u tube 'support'. I need thread count/pitch, diam & approx. length...
lavron
Well-known member
chad":n4la2ud3 said:
I haven't bought anything yet, still trying to figure out if they exchange.
I went out and measured one of my main bolts.
Which is exactly the same size as the head bolt (appear to be the exact same bolts) now I just need to confirm the SBF main bolts are the same, searching right now for that info.
See Ya,
Mike
You should be able to use the 5.0 / 302 main bolt. The 5.0 with its rear sump pan has a stud for the pickup tube support. Good luck 
aw, gosh, U do all the hard wrk, Mike.
(Glad U do...mine's 15 mi away...
:roll:
If that's a 3 inch bolt - the lill extension on the end 4 da tab looks bout a 1/4 inch?
Also three 4th the diam - may B 1/4, 20?
(Glad U do...mine's 15 mi away...
:roll:
If that's a 3 inch bolt - the lill extension on the end 4 da tab looks bout a 1/4 inch?
Also three 4th the diam - may B 1/4, 20?
lavron
Well-known member
bubba22349":1js473fd said:You should be able to use the 5.0 / 302 main bolt. The 5.0 with its rear sump pan has a stud for the pickup tube support. Good luck
Thanks Bubba!
chad":1js473fd said:
Well I have to admit a lot of this if I ever knew it I forgot it :roll:
Now to find the bolt, cheap, been finding them for around $20 each out there, seems a little pricey to me :roll: may not know where to look or I may end up scouring the JY for one, now that I know what I am looking for
See Ya,
Mike
nuttin that ol round here.
I imagined bein under a vehicle (yeah right, they leave um all right on the ground, in da dirt) w/a butane (to heat it up),
loosen an 1/16th, tighten. loosen an 1/8th, tighten, loosen a 1/4, etc). I'll send ya $25 if ya find ONE.
I imagined bein under a vehicle (yeah right, they leave um all right on the ground, in da dirt) w/a butane (to heat it up),
loosen an 1/16th, tighten. loosen an 1/8th, tighten, loosen a 1/4, etc). I'll send ya $25 if ya find ONE.
lavron
Well-known member
Thinking about just getting this set of main studs from Summit and using an extra nut to attach my pickup tube too.
Speedmaster 250-6 main studs
I would rather spend $44 for a whole set of studs than $20 for one bolt :roll:
See Ya,
Mike
Speedmaster 250-6 main studs
I would rather spend $44 for a whole set of studs than $20 for one bolt :roll:
See Ya,
Mike
Oops, I saw arp and thought studs,
200 mains are shorter and not as tall as a 250, so that will be to short.
If you go with studs make sure you check oil pump to stud clearance and shorten it if you have to, before finish work.
200 mains are shorter and not as tall as a 250, so that will be to short.
If you go with studs make sure you check oil pump to stud clearance and shorten it if you have to, before finish work.
lavron
Well-known member
drag-200stang":26frbph8 said:
Well I went ahead and ordered the studs, not sure if Speedmaster stuff is any good but ARP doesn't offer a set for the 250, hopefully studs will be an upgrade over stock bolts irregardless.
Also, if nothing happens the block is finally going next week to be bored, decked, balanced and the Aussie pistons pressed onto the 2.5L HSC/OHV rods. I will get there eventually :roll:
See Ya,
Mike
lavron
Well-known member
Not sure you guys are interested in looking at this video I made on my progress a few days ago, it is mostly on fitting the 250 down in my Comet with the M2 front end, but I do talk about a couple of other things.
https://vimeo.com/330165656
Sorry about the audio quality it really sucks, I have my GoPro Hero in a selfie stick and it is pointing away from me and when I really extend the stick to get down in the engine bay the microphone gets too far away.
See Ya,
Mike
https://vimeo.com/330165656
Sorry about the audio quality it really sucks, I have my GoPro Hero in a selfie stick and it is pointing away from me and when I really extend the stick to get down in the engine bay the microphone gets too far away.
See Ya,
Mike
Speedmaster is absolute crap. Use the stock bolts, return the studs.lavron":1fbz4xzb said:
If you really want studs, call ARP direct, they have more than what’s in the catalog. Once studs are installed the block need to be align honed.
Real nice ta meet ya in this new way!lavron":3tkm7s79 said:
Don't B concerned abt the audio (or video) quality. It wrked great 4 me!
I'm most interested in ur suspension mods (any way to get quality, performance, affordability) is of interest to me.
Did not C enuff detail to C the air bag set up, camera moved too fast over those details.
Will also stay subscribed as the rear sump is a place our projects connect.
lavron
Well-known member
chad":31d1r0io said:
Thanks Chad, if you look on Vimeo you might see a video under my name of me testing the air bags out for the first time.
Someday when I get closer to finished I will make a video showing everything I have done to the Comet and post is somewhere on the forum.
If I get the block off to the shop next week I will be working to get the engine bay prepped for it's eventual return (working on that now) I also am building my own wiring harness so that is something I have to get going on, probably not the most exciting stuff but required (at least for me) to get done and on the road.
See Ya,
Mike
"...of me testing the air bags out..."
yes, saw that last Oct here in this thread, just can't C
how/where U set them (bags) on the frnt end, no matter. I C the request to have the 'motor build" in this thread only ; another for the suspension...Onto
where our rigs do match.
I think U said U will use the Ford 2.5L HSC/OHV Connecting Rods to zero the deck w/o a mill pass.
Did U locate a piston ("My Budget 250 build") for this combo? What is it? How far "dwn the hole" now? What duz the head cc out to now (or should I say nxt month, LOL)?
Thanks for bringin me along ur trip, Mike...gettin close now.
yes, saw that last Oct here in this thread, just can't C
how/where U set them (bags) on the frnt end, no matter. I C the request to have the 'motor build" in this thread only ; another for the suspension...Onto
where our rigs do match.
I think U said U will use the Ford 2.5L HSC/OHV Connecting Rods to zero the deck w/o a mill pass.
Did U locate a piston ("My Budget 250 build") for this combo? What is it? How far "dwn the hole" now? What duz the head cc out to now (or should I say nxt month, LOL)?
Thanks for bringin me along ur trip, Mike...gettin close now.
lavron
Well-known member
chad":3qd5h0lr said:
I may have to deck the block approx 10 thousandths to achieve zero deck.
The pistons are Silv-O-Lite 3332H for an Australian Ford 250 (Stock 250 rods measure 5.880", replacing them with 2.5L HSC rods I would move the piston up the bore .110" that would leave .040" of deck height [with stock US pistons]. Replace the stock US 250 piston with a AUS 250 piston the difference in pin height .030" moving the top of the piston up the bore another .030" leaving .010" of deck height which could be milled off the block deck to bringing it to zero deck block.) These pistons have a 12.863cc dish on top so compression won't go too high.
I still don't know on the head cc yet because I am not sure I won't go with the Aluminum head, I have a big log '72 head off of a 200.
See Ya,
Mike
OK, head spinnin a lill right now (CR, quench, con rod, piston, rod to stroke ratio). It takes me awhile.
Archive will eat this info for next round ina few yrs. I need 200K mi to let it sink in and raise the $ both...
Thank you.
Archive will eat this info for next round ina few yrs. I need 200K mi to let it sink in and raise the $ both...
Thank you.
lavron
Well-known member
chad":5mjc8nb6 said:
Well all the stuff I am doing is not required by any means, I just have a particular outcome in mind and this is the last time I intend to ever build the motor in my Comet.
As far as me contemplating getting an aluminum head (which I may not do) it is not required for the changes I am doing to the short block, the pistons and rods are no more expensive than the stock replacement parts, just harder to find, nor is the machine work anything special.
See Ya,
Mike