Milling Head for 2bbl

Looks good (y)
There is plenty of sealing surface to work well, but in the pic, another bolt needs to be added on the right at about the same space or closer from the edge as the left lower bolt spot...You have a lot of sealing surface but it needs to be clamped even or it can leak. take a magic marker and draw it on the manifold and you can see what will be best for even clamping force.
Make a gasket using about 1/6'' material and dope it up both sides with permatex #3 , let it sit and soak in, let it dry some, do manifold and bolts too, not so much that it is dripping more like tacky.
Time is your friend, Wait as long as you can before putting in service...Re torque as necessary but do not over torque it.
 
drag-200stang":1djl37ff said:
Looks good (y)
There is plenty of sealing surface to work well, but in the pic, another bolt needs to be added on the right at about the same space or closer from the edge as the left lower bolt spot...You have a lot of sealing surface but it needs to be clamped even or it can leak. take a magic marker and draw it on the manifold and you can see what will be best for even clamping force.
Make a gasket using about 1/6'' material and dope it up both sides with permatex #3 , let it sit and soak in, let it dry some, do manifold and bolts too, not so much that it is dripping more like tacky.
Time is your friend, Wait as long as you can before putting in service...Re torque as necessary but do not over torque it.
I've seen someone do the 3 bolt thing before and I'm assuming it worked. I don't know how I'm gonna squeeze a 4th bolt hole in it, it was already tight before. I was gonna do 4 in a rectangle pattern but the original bolt hole kinda screwed up my room for that. But it won't be in service for awhile. I gotta be able to afford having the 1.50 exhaust valves put in and doing porting work in the exhaust ports.
 

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different heads I imagine, can't read the casting #s.
Some R beddah den odders (by log shape that is)~
(I think it's: '60 - 68 not much, '70 - '74 not much)
That's 10 good yrs for the direct mount, no?
 
I have seen pic before and people do what works for them at the time , but with 20 20 we can usually always improve what has been done by their efforts.
What do you mean tight to what?
 
Same E0 head, the 1980 - 1983 model year cars with 3.3's.

The 1980 model year Grandas or Monarchs with 4.1's.

All had that manifold vac source was changed on all E0BE-6090-BB heads.

IMG_8571.jpg



In some late 1979 cars, a boss existied where the manifold vac was to go the next year.

it was undrilled, and the casting was E0.


That boss for the brake booster was shifted to the front of the head in FoMoCo's D7 experiemental XE head of 1977.

hEAD_MITT20XE20201090_eX20D7BE9430CA50CA_CARB_XD9BE94588BB_VAC20POD_XE201596_612b_31.jpg


About then, Ford planned on rolling out

1. the low mount block,

2. integrated EGR all E0 heads had, and the front mounted Manifold vac.

And note how the downshift rod bracket only used on automatic 3.3's and 4.1s covers all the casting numbers.

inline6.jpg



IMG_6648.jpg


Here is Shawns 1981 Mustang T4 manual E0 head...without the downshift rod bracket

btd_1981_tangerine_t4_3300_mustang_1bbl_e0be6090bb.jpg



btd_1981_tangerine_t4_3300_mustang_1bbl.jpg


For the dyslexic...the EO heads are all the same internally. How you drill and tap is your choice.

E0BE-9090-BB_SD_MillenumFalcon_final_cut_2bbl.jpg
 
D7's and D8's are the harder to 2bbl direct mount, the C7's and earlier, harder still.

Areastoaddfiller.jpg


You don't need to add filler to an E0.

To a D8, filler is also likely.

Picture027.jpg
 
drag-200stang":pufgvvzc said:
I have seen pic before and people do what works them at the time but with 20 20 we can usually always improve what has been done by their efforts.
What do you mean tight to what?
I wasn't planning on reusing the original hole (top one on right side). In order for me to do the rectangular arrangement it woulda cut it too close to that hole. So thats why i went with the 2 and 1 setup. With plenty of permatex, flat sealing surface, gasket, and a .75" aluminum spacer on top, i think it should be plenty sealed. But this is my first rodeo so if I'm talking out my rear here please tell me so i don't waste time putting it on and not working.
 
StarDiero75":1x00hg9b said:
drag-200stang":1x00hg9b said:
I have seen pic before and people do what works them at the time but with 20 20 we can usually always improve what has been done by their efforts.
What do you mean tight to what?
I wasn't planning on reusing the original hole (top one on right side). In order for me to do the rectangular arrangement it woulda cut it too close to that hole. So thats why i went with the 2 and 1 setup. With plenty of permatex, flat sealing surface, gasket, and a .75" aluminum spacer on top, i think it should be plenty sealed. But this is my first rodeo so if I'm talking out my rear here please tell me so i don't waste time putting it on and not working.
The problem with the centered bolt hole is it is the thinnest there and you have only a couple of threads.
I see nothing wrong with using the upper right hole ( in your pic ) But if it is to close to work I see nothing wrong with a new bolt hole straight to to right. and a new bolt hole at the lower right like the one at the lower left, the threads will be thicker there...Maybe forget the center hole..It does not have to be perfect but four bolts more even would be best.
What you have may be fine but why not improve it while you can easily do so now.
I am trying to help the future readers to help them get the best job done.
 
chad":3tipkbp6 said:
…..
Some R beddah den odders ….

Like reading a 16 year olds phonetic spelling.

Chad - your posts are so hard to read, please try - or use spellchecker
 
The only 1 worth it to me (& plenty folks call me an a$$hole, don’t feel bad doing so ur self) is
the 2nd ½ of the 1st pic in post # 26. If U pull ahead/have machine time - Y not go 4 broke?
the others look all most as bad as member MPGs' stang log wrk (direct mount 2v).

"...use spellchecker..."
nah, dat wuz deliberate, sorry (slang'n learning disability - just use ur Delete 'button')
 
Bravo! It's awesome you got it done and did it yourself. Not to nitpick b/c it may not matter, but like others said I would have moved the adapter mounting holes on the aft side aft a bit so I could have used 2 and spread them as far apart as is practical. Also, I wouldn't recommend using rtv if you can help it, gasoline and those sealants don't mix well. Intake and carb gaskets general aren't installed with sealant b/c of that.
 
Without brazing up the low areas you will have to make up the difference with some adapters. Then you can contour the lower radius of the lower adapter to gain the lost area of the log. I wish you the best.
 
"...contour the lower radius of the lower adapter ..."
can U say more Bill, I don't understand this offering.
 
Alright so i decided to add a hole but I'll do it when i finish my adapter. Since all the holes are referenced from the lone one, I'll drill the 2 on the left side in the adapter, then look at drilling 2 on the right side right through the adapter and log.

Thanks for the input guys.

I'm gonna get the small bore carb gasket and try to make the slot in the adapter plate look like that. The big bore gasket has the holes going into the sealing surface a little bit, so the small bore might just fit, or i may need to funnel the adapter ever so slightly.

I got to work on the adapter today, here's what i got. I'll be working on this again probably tuesday next week. Currently its .75" tall, would you all cut it lower than that or is that probably good?

Ryan
 

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fit rocker cover before drilling the holes -so you know you can get it past the adapter if you need to remove the rocker cover.
 
Check your throttle linkage situation on the carb before making it any thinner. Iirc from when I was looking at using the 2100 I needed a bit of height to clear the log.
 
gb500":3j8xgw2r said:
fit rocker cover before drilling the holes -so you know you can get it past the adapter if you need to remove the rocker cover.
Good idea. It looks like it will but I'll double check
 
Econoline":12yoe0x9 said:
Check your throttle linkage situation on the carb before making it any thinner. Iirc from when I was looking at using the 2100 I needed a bit of height to clear the log.
I'm using a Lokar cable and a little bracket i fabbed. It should work. I'll measure how high the carb was sitting before and make it the same just to make sure
 
I would like to make a correction, permatex # 3 is what I was thinking about , it is thinner than #2 and brushable...#2 is a little thick for good fitting parts .
Star can you edit the quote to #3.. I like to make things as factual as I can.
Thanks....PS the adapter is coming around nice.
 
drag-200stang":3g3qkhrf said:
I would like to make a correction, permatex # 3 is what I was thinking about , it is thinner than #2 and brushable...#2 is a little thick for good fitting parts .
Star can you edit the quote to #3.. I like to make things as factual as I can.
Thanks....PS the adapter is coming around nice.
Fixed it! Ok but like was said earlier, is using sealant a good idea around the gas?

Thanks, i spent a lot of time with a file rounding everything
 
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