mild rebuild of 200 - cam, lifters, piston questions

UPdate:

I´m still waiting for some of the parts to arrive and get to the machinist (cam, valves, etc.) and trying to get to the exhaust guy to price out a new 2" pipe in the meantime. Haven´t gotten my rear ratios yet, but will soon. I thought I was lucky to find the high-mount starter for some reason I can´t recall in the Handbook having to do with my ´61 bodystyle.

Meanwhile, Ryan, I´ve checked out your thread and others on the two-barrel carb upgrade and the reading has been as inspiring as overwhelming. Way too much info to digest in a sitting, but I´m trying to wrap my head around it all and seriously consider it, especially as the head is off. Questions (that I know are probably answered in the forum, but with so much info, sometimes specific answers are hard to filter out, so my apologies aforehand...):

  • Are all the Weber 32/36 carbs basically the same, differing only in their choke system and maybe the linkage? Is there a certain model/year/setup that is required for my project or will any one work?
  • Since the head is now off, I´m thinking now might be the time to machine it for the conversion if I go that way. If I chicken out (when it comes time to start-up, I don´t want to screw around too much with carb settings), will the bolt-on adapter that requires no machining still be a good improvement over the single-barrel? (I did remember to pull the throttle pedal and cable-linkage from the Zephyr).

Cheers!
Tim
 
It´s been several months, but my 200 rebuild and swap is finally making progress: the engine is nearly completed, and the old engine/tranny is out of the 61 Comet. As I get ready to put everything back into the car, I have questions, but I´m not sure if it´s best to ask them here or to start new threads. Moderator, let me know.

Here are a few of my questions:
1. regarding the oil passage for the hydraulic lifters: both ends should be blocked off, right? (a threaded plug at rear and a pressed one at front).
2. the rocker assy. from the 61 engine: the front-most shaft support has an extra doo-dad, possibly for oil drainage, that the 200 doesn´t. Should I use it or stick to the original supports?
3. the PCV setup: the rebuilt 200 will not have all the connections it had originally, which leaves me with several holes I´m not sure what to do with: two in the valve cover, two under the carb and one at the front of the intake manifold. My guess is to run a tube (with valve) from the VC to under the carb, run another (with valve) from the VC to the air cleaner, and to block off the other two. right?

I wanted to attach pics , but the "board quota" seems to be full...

Thanks for your comments and Happy New Year!
Tim
 
Tim, go with this front rocker stand.
the rocker assy. from the 61 engine: the front-most shaft support has an extra doo-dad, possibly for oil drainage, that the 200 doesn´t. Should I use it or stick to the original supports?
That front rocker stand uses the drainage for oil to drip down in the lifter area between the 2nd & third lifters cause there is an orifice just above the distributor gear for additional lubrication. Bill wsa111
 
Thanks, Bill!

I´ll go with the rocker assy from the 170 then, after cleaning it up and drilling the rockers. I was happy to see that it is in far better shape than the 200! Hopefully the shaft can be reused...

Cheers,
Tim
 
timson":3az5m9w3 said:
Hopefully the shaft can be reused...
ck 2 C if the rocker slides or binds up on the shaft, any shinny circles all the way around. I hada take a lill emery paper 2 mine.
Cleaned out the inside (of the shaft, is an oil passage all along) w/long gun brush (been 6 yrs now)...
No ridge at the top of the piston bores...
 
A timely and useful post, Econoline! Thanks!

I was wondering about that exact manifold, as I discovered that the C3DE exhaust manifold i´ve been using (since replacing the cracked original years ago) has a 1.5"outlet! I´ll get the new one, then, and upgrade my pipes once the car is back up and running.

Related question: should I get the ramploks or simply use bolts with lock washers?

Cheers!
Tim
 
I'd get studs
https://www.vintageinlines.com/exhaust
We shop 'our' folks (Matt owns VI) cuz they cater to us (give'n get's what community is all bout)
and the better gasket.
Some swear by the stainless due to the threads not rustin, ability to get off on easier later.

Matt also has the headers (shorties).
The C4 is a good choice (least parasitic of the autos, good after mrkt prts)
But I think the AOD beddah! We got the tech for a home made adaptor to ur motor too! Keep us informed abt ur interests. Count our the rear end to find it's ratio yet?
 
Thanks again, Chad.

I´m all for supporting "our" folk, and have already ordered several items from Matt. Now you´ve got me thinking again about headers... might stick with my original plan: keep the old manifold until car´s up n going, then spring on the exhaust system...

rear ratio, by the way, comes out to 3.2. What does it mean!? good for highway cruising?

The AOD setup sounds like it would have been perfect, but i think I´ll be happy with the C4. I do know that I´ll have to modify the old support for it, since the 61 won´t take the aftermarket one. I´ll get to that once it´s back in the car and while I´m getting the driveshaft cut to the right length...

By the way, during the rebuild I went ahead with the larger exhaust valves, a recurved dizzy from Bill, and the head conversion for the 2bbl Weber. I got a 32/36 DGV offa ebay, cleaned and jetted it (thanks to stardiero), and put it on the 170 to test it before I pulled the motor out - ran great! wish i´da done that years ago!

Cheers,
Tim
 
sounds too late for the port divider? (headers in da future U say?)

"...comes out to 3.2. What does it mean!? ...
lower #s - better MPGs, higher can = more tq (don't 4get the whole 'final drive' formula: engine, tranny gear(s), rear, tire sz). There's
a nice on-line caculator or 3 we truckers use esp 4 off rd.
 
chad":fegvkbi6 said:
"...No idea what I have in that case. ..."
chalk line or dot on drive shaft, rear wheels in the air, rotate the tire'n count # of revolutions of shaft compaired to tire, this = ratio. Ie 3.5 X for 1 of the tire = 3.5 ratio. (count 1/4s too as they mean .25, near full = .90, etc).

That'n tire sz, tranny get U closer to an answ.

"...ditched the 82 exhaust manifold because it had that big converter canister on it... Sounds like a set of headers is in order then..."
some C the "football' as a header itself.
This will not work right with an open differential, because one of the tires can turn at different rates throwing the count off.
 
Thanks, Drag!

To get the ratio, I lifted the rear axle at the differential and turned the left rear tire twice, counting the turns on the u-joint. Is there a better way of finding the ratio?

Cheers,
Tim
 
timson":vjrb5ums said:
Thanks, Drag!

To get the ratio, I lifted the rear axle at the differential and turned the left rear tire twice, counting the turns on the u-joint. Is there a better way of finding the ratio?

Cheers,
Tim
They say that the 2x one tire works as long as the other tire does not move but I have not proved it myself but I know if both tires are turning it won't be right if they do not turn even.
 
So I tried a different method: lifting only my left rear tire, I turned it 10 times, counting 16 revolutions of the diffy knuckle. Following the math on the video: 16 x 2/10=3.20. ¡Eureka!

I have 14" wheels also, so I may be in good shape. When I rebuilt the C4, I put in a shifter kit, just in case I need to tow a trailer with my extra car parts! I have no idea what to expect...

Cheers,
Tim
 
Wait. I just checked my math. 16x2/10 =3.80. Seems a bit high, doesn't it?

Thanks for the comments,
Tim
 
Sorry folks, long day and I did not study math.

3.20. came from a 62 comet with a three-on-da-tree...

Tim
 
3.2 is likely right on that rear end, the factory 62 ratio in my car was 3.2 and it turn, with 215/70-14 inch tires, about 3k at 70mph in 3rd. That center section decided it had enough of me and tried to spit the holding pin out while going down the road so I "upgraded" to the 2.83 ratio from first gen mustang. It feels gutless off the line but cruises much better on the hwy now.


Which leads me to ask what do you want more? Better HWY driving or towing? If you are ok with the engine turning 3k down the road than stick with what you have as that motor will run all day at that speed with nary a complaint. The AOD is a good idea because you can use a lower rear gear and get great towing and with the overdrive you get good HWY too. Alternatively you could get a gear vendors add on overdrive rather pricey but a decent idea and a lot of older hot rodders love these units.

I feel like im raining on your parade today but felt as though I should add this.

Others can chime in if they feel otherwise but these cars, and the rear-ends they came with, weren't designed to tow. Their lack luster performance would only be worse hauling extra weight, id perhaps wait until the 6 hits stage 2 so to speak before towing with it, you'll want all the power you can get for assistance. Also possibly consider an 8 inch swap, much stouter rear with just as many options for ratio and you can possibly find one with 4 lug still that would bolt in with the right tire or wheel offset.

I wish you the best with the project and hope I haven't deterred you from getting it finish :beer:
 
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