Milling Head for 2bbl

Next I'll be cutting the slot for the carb bores, facing the bottom side and angling it at 3.5°. Then facing the top, drilling and counter sinking the holes for the allen screws to the head. Will update again probably Tuesday next week
 
Nice job so far. My only concern is loosing cross sectional area of the log, vs brazing the low spots & then milling at a higher point.
Anyway you do it will require spacers to get the carb higher & get as close as you can to keep the carb at the same angle as the one barrel mounting pad.
 
wsa111":2628lnp7 said:
Nice job so far. My only concern is loosing cross sectional area of the log, vs brazing the low spots & then milling at a higher point.
Anyway you do it will require spacers to get the carb higher & get as close as you can to keep the carb at the same angle as the one barrel mounting pad.
That's why I'm done milling, its probably .25 or slightly under that in my material thats left. I'll see what i can do to the adapter to make it all good. But yes i am keeping in mind the carb angle. I read it should be about 3.5°.

I am thinking of using a phenolic spacer to raise it if needed. The one at NAPA looked about .5". Currently its about .75", after decking it at an angle and facing it might go down to the high .6's. I'll keep measuring and use my original setup witb the 2 to 1 adapter as a height reference b/c that was perfect.
 
mill the plastic to 3* ?
(after trimmed to 1 inch)?
 
chad":1f69is3t said:
mill the plastic to 3* ?
(after trimmed to 1 inch)?
I'm not milling the phenolic spacer. I'm going to mill the bottom of the carb adapter to the 3.5 degrees. Then everything on top of it will be sitting correctly. The phenolic will be added only if i need more lift to clear the valve cover. Otherwise it'll just be the carb and aluminum adapter
 
StarDiero75":1zeneaav said:
drag-200stang":1zeneaav said:
I would like to make a correction, permatex # 3 is what I was thinking about , it is thinner than #2 and brushable...#2 is a little thick for good fitting parts .
Star can you edit the quote to #3.. I like to make things as factual as I can.
Thanks....PS the adapter is coming around nice.
Fixed it! Ok but like was said earlier, is using sealant a good idea around the gas?

Thanks, i spent a lot of time with a file rounding everything
That is what I used on my home made full sized hole in the manifold tri power adapters... It sealed with only .090 but only along the sides of the manifold at the round hole ... The full name is permatex aviation form-a-gasket #3 if you google it and look for the data sheet you can see, but a quick run down is slow drying ,non hardening, continuous use -65f to 400f. Retains effective properties in contact with gasoline, motor oil, trans fluid ethylene glycol and sea water.
 
"...non hardening..."
da god stuff, ? $25 a tube, I believe?
 
Is permatex #3 like gasgacinch? Or more space age? i.e. not basically rubber cement? I don't think I've used it. I know not to use RTV in the fuel path. They have all kinds of sealants and there's good measure and there's overkill. I've used gasgacinch to tack gaskets to one side or to keep them in place while I set the part or like the valve cover or oil pan and then it stays on the cover side when you take it apart. I use rtv sparsely, on wtr pump gaskets and bolts, thermostats, core plugs, at the rear main and flywheel bolts, that one head bolt and under the balancer bolt, ect. I hate cleaning off gasket sealant when I take something apart. Especially in the intake, where any good scratch or easy warp from prying could lead to a vacuum leak. How about trying to dislodge something that is glued together over that nice faying surface? Bedded well in glue. It's enough of a pita to get the gasket off where it sticks on it's own. If you have a good, flat faying surface and reasonably rigid components, the gasket will seal.
 
"...i used a 3/8 carbide end mill on a vertical mill at 500 RPM..."
4 lip (double end) end mill here. The 500 rpm seems slo but depends on speeds'n feeds (of course).
Some 'hand feed'. Others 'automatic table'.
 
chad":dhx44huf said:
"...i used a 3/8 carbide end mill on a vertical mill at 500 RPM..."
4 lip (double end) end mill here. The 500 rpm seems slo but depends on speeds'n feeds (of course).
Some 'hand feed'. Others 'automatic table'.
I hand fed it. And mine was 4 flute. I was amazed at the surface finish, it was so smooth!
 
Got the adapter angle milled today. I got it roughlt to 3.5°. It's definitely closer than it was flat milled. Next is to drill the holes into the head. I brought my junk valve cover to make sure it all fits on and allows me to take the VC off if needed.

Then i got to get studs and test fit the carb to make sure the butterflys move without obstruction. Im excited that its almost done!

What I'm happy about too is that its all documented here so others can see what I'm doing in stages so hopefully it makes it easier to see what is needed to be done.

Thanks guys for all the advice so far, keep it coming,
Ryan
 

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I finally finished it guys. All thats left is filing a few spots that intrude on the intake area and sealing the surface in between. But I'll seal the surface after I get it magnafluxed and all the other head work to it.

Also i made a cover for the EGR valve spot. I'm thinking about drilling and tapping for a vacuum source there, or should i leave it as is? I don't really do anything for vacuum other PCV and my vacuum gauge. But i may add power brakes in the future, I'll decide that after i get my disks on.

So I've heard to use the aircraft grade permatex or to use 1/6" gasket material, i need to decide on that next. What is the poll on that?

Thanks,
Ryan
 

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that really takes the cake (proof is right beside !).
8^ )
I C in 1 pic another adapter below, yes?
Do U have a shot of that to look at?

Is top adapter so thick to get the carb links above the V/C?

Thanks for showin all the pic!.
 
Please accept my praise of your efforts. Everything you've done looks great - and I hope it gave you a sense of accomplishment.

Well done.
 
Soldmy66":35ittfnv said:
Please accept my praise of your efforts. Everything you've done looks great - and I hope it gave you a sense of accomplishment.

Well done.
Thanks a lot man. My hands hurt and are coverned in aluminum. I now hate aluminum haha. But yes it feels amazign to have done it all. Thank you very much
 
chad":36aw4nvs said:
that really takes the cake proof is right beside !). 8^ )
I C in 1 pic another adapter below, yes?
Do U have a shot of that to look at?

IS whats shown so thick to get the carb links above the V/C?

Thanks for showin it all.
Haha i thought the cake was a nice touch lol.

The adapter below is my cover for the EGR spot since i wont be running that. If you really want to see that stand alone i can do that for you.

No it is not. The throttle linkage hits on the low side. I need a 1" spacer to clear the log. I ordered one off eBay even though i could make it, but its time i actually start doing the assignments in class instead of this haha.
 
In your tuning experiments remember that on a street only car the EGR valve is quite useful in helping you to get the best in MPG. Plus since it's only operating at the higher hiway cruise speeds it doesn't really have an effect lower speed power. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
bubba22349":2nmii5tx said:
In your tuning experiments remember that on a street only car the EGR valve is quite useful in helping you to get the best in MPG. Plus since it's only operating at the higher hiway cruise speeds it doesn't really have an effect lower speed power. Good luck (y) :nod:
I'll be using headers so i can't run one anyway.

Does the EGR not restrict and cause unnecessary backflow? I thought emissions crap usually reduced gas mileage
 
You have done a very nice job!
On the gasket thickness, the flatter the two surfaces are the thinner it can be , and the thicker you go the more distortion you can have when tightened down...How thick is the gasket between the carb base and the body of the carb...It should represent the adapter to manifold surface.
At the top edge of the adapter is it the same size as the carb bore or a touch larger and not smaller?
 
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