Milling Head for 2bbl

look pretty busy.
"...If you really want to see that stand alone i can do that for you. ..."
no priority, but yeah, either that or a link to co who has a pic of it on their site~
Thnx
 
Hey Ryan, what's up with the plate you've got on there blocking the manifold port?
 
2X^^^^
he may send us a pic of it alone or alone mounted
 
drag-200stang":2mxakrst said:
You have done a very nice job!
On the gasket thickness, the flatter the two surfaces are the thinner it can be , and the thicker you go the more distortion you can have when tightened down...How thick is the gasket between the carb base and the body of the carb...It should represent the adapter to manifold surface.
At the top edge of the adapter is it the same size as the carb bore or a touch larger and not smaller?
Thanks man!

So everything should be very flat. I ran the mill over all my machined surfaces real slow to geg them all real nice and smooth. So my gasket should be similar in thickness to the carb gasket?

The ends of the slot fit the carb perfectly. The width of the slot is slightly larger. Why?
 
Econoline":by7g7uxq said:
Hey Ryan, what's up with the plate you've got on there blocking the manifold port?
Thats a cover for the EGR port. I'll be running headers and so i wont be using it. I was thinking about drill and tapping it for a vacuum port but i dont have a tap for the vacuum fitting, or can I just use a normal tap? I believe the brass hose barbs are 1/4" NPT
 
X2 .... Make sure that you get a couple fittings to test your fit as you go, it is easy to go too deep and be loose.
Do you guys know how I know that your priority's are messed up...I never saw the cake :LOL:
 
StarDiero75":2tcd64wz said:
drag-200stang":2tcd64wz said:
You have done a very nice job!
On the gasket thickness, the flatter the two surfaces are the thinner it can be , and the thicker you go the more distortion you can have when tightened down...How thick is the gasket between the carb base and the body of the carb...It should represent the adapter to manifold surface.
At the top edge of the adapter is it the same size as the carb bore or a touch larger and not smaller?
Thanks man!

So everything should be very flat. I ran the mill over all my machined surfaces real slow to get them all real nice and smooth. So my gasket should be similar in thickness to the carb gasket?


The ends of the slot fit the carb perfectly. The width of the slot is slightly larger. Why?
Close but I was thinking of the gasket between the carb halves...Some carb to manifold gaskets can be a little too thick and that is when you find bent ears on the carb when over tightened...Really anything like that will be fine...
That will be just fine...If the hole in the adapter was smaller than the carb bore it would hurt flow and could be tapered.
 
i have not read this just skimed the pic

http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/197

but we have covered it here several times (quicker to hit google
for me than use "Search" here).

Some restorers (read 'younger guys') were not around for the evolution of the system.
I C this and other engineered systems stripped off in their effort to customize their ride.
It may B better practice to research the motor function when completing their wrk. I will
assemble a 'closed PCV' system. I have 2nd thoughts with the 'adjustable' pcv (I believe it wuz)
Cat posted abt back awhile ago. I havea lill more cash for the project now and will B researchin it more.
:nod:
 
drag-200stang":1r4z4h8h said:
StarDiero75":1r4z4h8h said:
drag-200stang":1r4z4h8h said:
You have done a very nice job!
On the gasket thickness, the flatter the two surfaces are the thinner it can be , and the thicker you go the more distortion you can have when tightened down...How thick is the gasket between the carb base and the body of the carb...It should represent the adapter to manifold surface.
At the top edge of the adapter is it the same size as the carb bore or a touch larger and not smaller?
Thanks man!

So everything should be very flat. I ran the mill over all my machined surfaces real slow to get them all real nice and smooth. So my gasket should be similar in thickness to the carb gasket?


The ends of the slot fit the carb perfectly. The width of the slot is slightly larger. Why?
Close but I was thinking of the gasket between the carb halves...Some carb to manifold gaskets can be a little too thick and that is when you find bent ears on the carb when over tightened...Really anything like that will be fine...
That will be just fine...If the hole in the adapter was smaller than the carb bore it would hurt flow and could be tapered.
I know about bent ears, my 2100 had bent ears and i had to mill it flat. I mean i can look at getting a thinner material. I'll see what they have for gasket material. Otherwise I'll stick to the spacer to carb gasket thickness.

I made a big deal about the slot being the same size as the carb, or larger. I didn't want any restriction as the point of this conversion is to let the head breathe more. I have a couple of very small intrusions but I'll clean them up with a file.
 
StarDiero75":2zs8v4p1 said:
bubba22349":2zs8v4p1 said:
In your tuning experiments remember that on a street only car the EGR valve is quite useful in helping you to get the best in MPG. Plus since it's only operating at the higher hiway cruise speeds it doesn't really have an effect lower speed power. Good luck (y) :nod:
I'll be using headers so i can't run one anyway.

Does the EGR not restrict and cause unnecessary backflow? I thought emissions crap usually reduced gas mileage

No the EGR doesn't restrict or cause un nessisary back flow. When you look at how its designed you can see it's not going cause a restriction, it introduces inert exhaust gas into the intake system only at steady state Cruising Speeds of 45 MPH or more this allows a leaner fuel mixture to save fuel. Yeah many people believe "emissions crap" lowers power and reduces Gas Milage this isn't nessisarly true especially for most street use cars. There is a level of all out high performance were it can start to be a henderace to power and of course there's the cosmetic looks. Good luck you are doing a great job on your build. (y) :nod:
 
this comes frm crankcase so even less (positive crankcase ventilation, not exh gas recirc)
 
Alright guys, the head got dropped off at the shop a bit ago and it got hot tanked and maged, it all checked out. The guides are shot so I'm gonna get a complete valve job.

Guides
Valve stem seals
New VI port flow stainless valves
Up exhaust to 1.5"
Schneider springs/retainers to match cam

The valves are ordered and should be here next week some time.

I know I need to look into backcutting and 3 angle valve job. I will ask when I get the valves to the shop.

Anything else I need to look into? I have the book but I think besides porting I'm good. If i port, I'll end up doing it to the exhaust side and I'd just smooth everything out, nothing crazy.

Thanks,
Ryan
 
chad":hihy96qj said:
"...i used a 3/8 carbide end mill on a vertical mill at 500 RPM..."
4 lip (double end) end mill here. The 500 rpm seems slo but depends on speeds'n feeds (of course).
Some 'hand feed'. Others 'automatic table'.
I did it all hand fed. It was a bit slow but it ate through it perfectly. There was no chatter or anything. Like cutting through butter
 
its amazing isn't it? Chips fly like wood chips from a hachet...
Other times U get the 'curl'...
We hada 'shaper' It hada ram (like a broach but repeditive). The tool post helda cutter like one ona lath but 4 Xs bigger. U put the wrk piece (a big hunka metal) in the vice & the ram arm holding the cutter woud travel several feet then into the piece and shave offa hunk.The whole floor would shake. These were plank floors (boards 6 by 18 inch, 30 ft long) in 200 yr old machine shops - so that shaper wuz my fav.
:shock:
:LOL:
 
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