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Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

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Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #1 by GPGoverMPG » Sun Mar 31, 2019 10:54 am

Just got my block back from being cleaned and bored. The block was cleaned and checked and everything looked good it was bored 0.050 over to accept H395P Sealed Power pistons. Still waiting for the crank to be ground and polished which brings up first question. Is it true no bob weights are needed to balance the crank? I'm just now balancing the pistons and rods and I was hoping to get the crank finished. After the crank comes back I'll install 1 and 6 pistons with no rings and measure how much the block deck needs cut. Doing the math it may be close to 0.040 which seems like a lot. How much can be safely removed I don't want head gasket problems. Thanks for any help or comments.
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #2 by pmuller9 » Sun Mar 31, 2019 11:34 am

Correct, the crank doesn't need bob weights for balancing.

Before you go and zero deck the pistons do a check list.
The head has 79cc chambers
You are using the Schneider 284-88H cam

Do you know many CCs are in the piston valve pockets?

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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #3 by GPGoverMPG » Sun Mar 31, 2019 4:54 pm

Yes the heads are 79cc but the head surface has not even had a clean up cut. The best information I can find on the pistons has the dish at 13cc I will need to cc one while I'm balancing them. As far as the cam goes yes, no, maybe. I have also been looking at the Schneider 142F solid lifter cam. For some reason I am enamored with the idea of a solid lifter cam. I was also thinking about having some weight cut out of the flywheel so it would rev a little quicker. And thanks a lot for all the education I getting. I read all the info on valve, rocker arm, push rod geometry.
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #4 by GPGoverMPG » Wed Apr 03, 2019 7:44 am

Working on building a rod balancing jig. My first attempt was not as repeatable as it needs to be. The pistons are 836 grams which is 30 grams more that the original I measured. When I did the math the pistons with a zero deck resulted in a 9.3:1 compression ratio. A tad lower than I'm shooting for but I should be able to get there when the head is milled. I also picked up a 300 from a 1980 F100 which means I need a '70 Maveric or an Econoline pickup.
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #5 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Wed Apr 03, 2019 9:28 am

Make a swinging balance rod with precision micro ball bearings to support the end opposite the scale end. Make a tri-pod fixture to center up the scale end of the rod on the scale. That will aid in making all the big ends equal and all the small ends equal. I don't know why the totals should fluctuate unless you need a more accurate scale. A known constant weight of brass to use as a control may help.

For pump gas 9.3:1 will be plenty.
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #6 by pmuller9 » Wed Apr 03, 2019 9:33 am

The Schneider 142F will pull hard to 5500 rpm with the big valve ported head.
It has 20* of .050" duration overlap and will thumpity thump a good ways to 2000 rpm although the 300 six always surprises me on low end response.
When the cam does finally turn on you will be :D. A true Hot Rod cam.
Make sure you get the lifters that have the oiling hole in the lifter face for extra cam lobe protection.

I'm assuming you have polished the rod beams and possibly had the rods shot peened?
The rods should weigh around 535 grams on the big end and 175 on the small end (give or take a few grams)
What are you using for a scale?

I thought the pistons just had 4 valve pockets and no round dish?
Have you CC'd them yet?

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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #7 by CNC-Dude » Wed Apr 03, 2019 10:19 am

If the pistons have a chamfer around the deck edge of them, you'll have to take that into consideration as well for compression sake.
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #8 by GPGoverMPG » Thu Apr 04, 2019 6:52 am

I did build a swing balance need to finish the scale platform today. The test I ran yesterday looks like my weights will be repeatable. I have not polished and peened the rods I have the time so I guess I could I just didn't think it would matter much with the stock rods. I did have them checked and sized with ARP bolts. I'm using a 1000g digital scale when I was weighting the pistons the readings were repeatable within .1g. I have not matched the pistons yet although they are within 2.3g now. Where do you remove the weight from the pistons? It's not much material. The pistons do have the 4 valve reliefs and no dish I just could not find what I consider good data on the value. I really like the 142F cam from the numbers I was getting and from the comment it's just what I want. Thanks again
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #9 by CNC-Dude » Thu Apr 04, 2019 7:59 am

You have to be careful with what you use to remove the material from the pistons and where you remove it. Especially with cast pistons. You need to use a rounded tip carbide burr, and grind in the area below the pin bosses where the material is the thickest. Without seeing the pistons, it's hard to recommend. It does require a certain amount of tribal knowledge and experience, and can be disastrous if certain guidelines aren't met. If does sound easy to most people, but there are some things that aren't DIY friendly without formal training and skill, so proceed cautiously.

Also, you need to have balanced the rods and /or polished the beams before you installed the rod bolts and reconditioned them. You will introduce too much heat into the rods when you remove weight from the big ends and you will distort the housing bores. That's part of that tribal knowledge that is required to perform certain tasks in engine building and modifications.
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #10 by pmuller9 » Thu Apr 04, 2019 8:19 am

If you look at the bottom of the piston skirts you will notice that they are rough looking.
If you want to remove weight you can remove a little material off the skirt bottoms evenly all the way around and smooth out the edges when you are done.

Polishing and shot peening the rods is done before resizing.
Since the rods have been resized don't worry about it.

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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #11 by CNC-Dude » Thu Apr 04, 2019 7:11 pm

And if the piston weights are as close as you mentioned, I wouldn't worry about those either. The factory pistons from 25-30 years ago weren't matched that closely and lasted 150,000 to 200,000 miles just fine.
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #12 by GPGoverMPG » Fri Apr 05, 2019 7:28 am

Got my swing balance made and it works. Should be able to get everything weight matched now. I'll see if I can get some pictures today. It sure is fun to learn and do different things. Looks I'm going to need some more specialized tools before my next build.
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #13 by pmuller9 » Sat Apr 06, 2019 8:47 am

Did you get a chance to CC the piston top?

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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #14 by GPGoverMPG » Sun Apr 07, 2019 7:16 am

I have not cc'ed a piston yet. My work bench is way to cluttered with work I was doing to make money to pay for my engine habit. Should be able to do it Monday. I keep things slow on Mondays so I can play with my own stuff.
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #15 by GPGoverMPG » Mon Apr 08, 2019 11:19 am

And this is why you check. The Pistons checked at 6cc. Making my compression a little crazy. Need to look at the numbers when I get home.
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #16 by pmuller9 » Mon Apr 08, 2019 11:39 am

Yes.
You either leave the pistons .030" in the hole or mill another 6cc out of the center of the pistons and zero deck them.
viewtopic.php?p=617194#p617194

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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #17 by GPGoverMPG » Mon Apr 08, 2019 9:18 pm

I need to get the big valves installed in the head. Have them do the smallest cleanup cut they can. Then I'll have my finial combustion chamber volume. I should pickup a cc or to with the valves. I really want my quench right.
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #18 by GPGoverMPG » Fri Apr 12, 2019 7:31 am

Took the head in to the machine shop. They are going to install the oversize valves, set it up for good seals and pull the rocker studs. Should be able to finalize the combustion chamber volume. With the dished valve faces and a little clean up I should be able to get a couple cc. He didn't want to install the screw in studs until I had a better idea of my valve train geometry. Now I'm looking for rocker arms 1.6 ratio.
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #19 by GPGoverMPG » Fri Apr 12, 2019 7:52 am

Thinking about the Harland Sharpe S4002 or S4002-7 the -7 uses the larger 7/16" stud and the valve train might be more stable. Their web site says they'll fit but I was hoping someone could confirm. So many choices. I was hoping for something a little less expensive given my slow cash flow but I couldn't find any BBF or BBC with a 1.6 ratio. Don't know that running 1.7 ratio to save a couple of bucks is the right option.
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #20 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Fri Apr 12, 2019 10:33 am

I'd be comfortable using either the 3/8 or 7/16. There are probably more options available using the 3/8. Likewise I would be comfortable using a 1.7:1 ratio, assuming all the valve/spring clearances are OK. For a cam with .45" lift you'll only see about a .030" lift increase with the 1.7 over the 1.6.
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #21 by pmuller9 » Fri Apr 12, 2019 10:44 am

The Harland Sharp roller rockers are made for the 300 head and fit properly.
I would use the 7/16" stud for better stability.

The distance from the rocker stud center to the center of the valve stem tip is typically around 1.585"
The Harland Sharp 300 six roller rockers have a roller tip to pivot center to center of 1.6" and rolls nicely across the center of the valve stem tip.
A to B distance is 1.600"
The 300 pushrods are close to parallel to the valve stems so the rocker should be close to straight across to match.Notice the small angle.

Image

The BBC roller rockers have 2 differences to the Ford 300 roller rockers.
The fulcrum length is 1.650" and the pushrod end angles upward over 20 degrees giving the pushrod on the 300 six an acute angle.
The BBC rockers are moved down on the stud which pulls the roller tip towards the center of the valve tip and also reduces the rocker to pushrod angle on the rockers short side.
As a result the BBC rockers require more to be machined off the stud towers on the head than with the Harlands.
Notice the much larger angle

Image

For street use I prefer to stay with the 1.6 ratio rocker to reduce the pressure on the lifter and cam lobe over a 1.7 ratio rocker.
You will lose .014" valve lift with the Schneider 142 because of the tappet clearance, not a big deal

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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #22 by pmuller9 » Fri Apr 12, 2019 12:38 pm

Having said what I said about 1.6 ratio rockers, if this is not going to be a daily driver I would be tempted to pick up another .048" valve lift with the 1.75 ratio Harland 3002-7 roller rocker.
Since the lifters are solid there's no worry about collapse at high rpm and as long as you use a oil designated for flat tappet cams there shouldn't be a problem with wear.

Both the 4002-7 and the 3002-7 Harland rockers use the same body.
The only difference is the pushrod cup on the 3002-7 is closer to the pivot point.
3002-7 rocker is on the top in the picture below.

Image

The pushrod on the 3002-7 rocker will be closer to the inside of the slot in the head and the clearance will need to be checked at that point.
If the slot needs to be lengthened for clearance you take minimum to do the job because there is water jacket behind that area.

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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #23 by GPGoverMPG » Sat Apr 13, 2019 7:34 am

I'm thinking the 4002-7 will serve me well.
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #24 by GPGoverMPG » Fri Apr 26, 2019 7:07 am

Still have not got my head back from the machine shop. It's driving me crazy not being able to do anything. So here's a question. Do I run the 142F cam with the 4002 rockers or run the 292-96F or the 148F to get more lift rather than run the 3002 rocker with the 142F. The 292-96F has the least affect on dynamic compression. I'm leaning towards more cam as this will not be an everyday truck and will only be getting 93 octane fuel. I need my head still so I can get finial combustion chamber cc's. I did not find the extra oiling lifters on the Schneider web site. Also, is it a good idea to get some weight cut out of the flywheel. Looking at the block side there appears to be material that could be removed. Thanks again
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #25 by CNC-Dude » Fri Apr 26, 2019 9:53 am

One thing you haven't mentioned is what timing set you are using. It's common knowledge that if using the fiber gear timing set, the gears will shred in no time flat when using anything more than stock valve spring pressures. There are many threads on here discussing this problem. So steer clear of those if you hadn't already discovered this weakness in them.
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #26 by pmuller9 » Fri Apr 26, 2019 10:55 am

When you get the head back you will need to measure the valve travel.
You may find that there isn't enough travel for the 148F and the 292-96F cam.
There are at least 4 other reasons why you don't want to run those cams.

Like I previously mentioned it would be fine to use the 1.75 ratio Harland rocker with the 142F cam for more valve lift.

Schneider does not have an oil hole mechanical lifter. Instead they will put a flat on the side of the lifter which is a hit and miss deal.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gcuurmkwtkwby ... r.jpg?dl=0

You would need another brand lifter to get the center oil hole.
The 142F cam is not radical and doesn't need the oil hole unless you just want the extra insurance.
The key is to use oils made for flat tappet cams like the Driven (Joe Gibbs) Hot Rod oils.
Post #277 viewtopic.php?p=618489#p618489

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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #27 by GPGoverMPG » Fri Apr 26, 2019 8:35 pm

Yea I know, stay with the plan and quit changing things. I did get the call from the machine shop I can pick the head up Monday. I'll be able to play with chamber volume to get the exact cc in need. I will also make sure the bowls are blended nicely. I'll be making progress.
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #28 by GPGoverMPG » Fri May 03, 2019 8:52 am

Picked up my cylinder head and the machine shop did a great job installing the new valves. They installed new valve guides and I have very little hand work to do cleaning up the bowl areas. The 194/160 SI valves with the dished faces did not help me in the combustion chamber cc's as I had hoped. My combustion chamber volume is 78cc's making my zero deck static compression 10.06:1 and my dynamic compression 7.60:1. Crap. I was hoping the dish in the valve faces would get me a cc or two over my pre-valve 79cc's no such luck.

I guess this means I'm leaving the piston in the hole a bit. 0.010 below deck gives me a 7.48:1 dynamic and a 9.9 static compression ratio with the 142F with the advertised 1.6:1 roller rocker. I am going to run the 3002 rockers from Harland Sharp. The engine will be run on top tier 93 octane only. I would cut into the quench area but I don't think I could get enough without removing a lot of it. So of the calculated numbers which is the most important dynamic or static. The gold lining is the next one I build gets the benefit of what I learned doing this one.

So in conclusion Help please. Thanks
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #29 by pmuller9 » Fri May 03, 2019 9:37 am

Having the piston .010 in the hole will still produce good quench.
The Static compression ratio determines engine efficiency so you try to maximize it for the fuel being used.
The Dynamic compression ratio is a reference number and indicates the Maximum static compression ratio for a given fuel.
The DCR is engine specific.

The #1 factor in making power is Volumetric Efficiency (cylinder fill) and is more significant than the Static compression ratio.

You have smooth combustion chambers and good quench so I don't expect any problems with 93 octane gas.
Changing to a cold air intake rather than having the engine suck in hot engine compartment air helps with both power and detonation.

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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #30 by GPGoverMPG » Fri May 03, 2019 1:24 pm

Sweet, I am going to run cowl induction all sealed up from the vents at bottom of windshield. I thought about from the cab but thought it would be to loud. Again thanks for the help
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #31 by GPGoverMPG » Mon May 06, 2019 5:25 pm

Took crankshaft to machine shop. The key way has already been extended and it's going to be ground and polished. They are also going to replace my ring gear and surface my flywheel before balanceing it and my crank.
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #32 by GPGoverMPG » Thu May 23, 2019 8:06 am

Crank and flywheel are ready for me to pick up Friday. I have my pistons all within half a gram and the rod split weights within half a gram as well. I'll be leaving the rods and pistons to get married when I pick up the crank. I still need to purchase the 142f cam and lifters from Schneider and the 3002-7 rockers from Harland Sharp. That'll leave valve springs and stuff and a good timing set. I'll need to get the push rods after assembly so I can measure the correct length. Any recommendations for timing set and the valve springs I should run. Thanks again
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #33 by pmuller9 » Thu May 23, 2019 8:52 am

The correct spring is the Comp 995-12
Comp 743-12 retainers
It is a double spring so the head needs to have the stock spring locator machined flat.
The spring will need to be set for a 1.700" installed height.

The Comp all steel timing set will work.

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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #34 by sandboxer » Thu May 23, 2019 1:24 pm

Maybe I missed something...
Talked with Schneider about a complete kit yesterday for the 142f, including springs. Theirs don’t work with the 300?

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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #35 by pmuller9 » Thu May 23, 2019 3:19 pm

sandboxer wrote:Maybe I missed something...
Talked with Schneider about a complete kit yesterday for the 142f, including springs. Theirs don’t work with the 300?

No you didn't miss anything.
Sometimes the cam supplier doesn't have a spring that will work with the 300 head for the length valve being used.
Schneider 6500/6600 springs can be made to work with this cam and the 300 head with the SI valves.
The 68026-12 springs will fit but the spring rate is the same as a stock spring which is too light.

What spring and retainer did Schneider recommend?

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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #36 by sandboxer » Thu May 23, 2019 4:28 pm

They actually didn’t recommend any type. They just quoted a price. I should have asked....

Thanks for your input. I’m sure it’s saving everyone a lot of grief, especially me:)

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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #37 by GPGoverMPG » Fri May 24, 2019 7:50 am

Yes thanks a lot, I'm having fun building this motor and I'm really thankful for the help. I had forgotten to have the spring seats cut. I'll get that done when they install my screw in studs. Now that I know the rocker arms I'm running I can get the studs. I think I'm going to order the comp cam degree kit as well. Don't want to purchase cool cam and not get it installed right.
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #38 by GPGoverMPG » Mon Jun 03, 2019 7:52 pm

Have the crank in hand again. It was cut and polished to .010 - .010 and balanced. I asked and they said the crank is spun at 700rpm and the computer tells them where to drill. The computer says the crank should be good to 7000rpm a number it will never see. I dropped the balanced rods and pistons off so they could be put together. I'm going to set the crank so when I get the assembled rods and pistons back I can measure deck height and figure out how much I need removed from the block. They also balanced the flywheel. Hopefully this will be a good spinning motor.
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80f150custom
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #39 by 80f150custom » Tue Jun 11, 2019 1:46 pm

Sounds like it's going to be a nice engine. Maybe I missed it but what are you hoping to achieve with this build?

Jason

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GPGoverMPG
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #40 by GPGoverMPG » Fri Jul 19, 2019 7:47 am

I got the recommended comp springs and retainers, cam degree kit, and the valve spring micrometer. The springs look pretty strong so I was wondering if I should leave the inner coils out for cam break in or run the stock springs. I had kind of thought to just run the full spring set up because it looks like it would be difficult to install the inners without removing the head. Still waiting for the machine shop to finish decking the block.
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THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #41 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Fri Jul 19, 2019 10:15 am

i THINK THAT IS A GOOD IDEA, AS LONG AS YOU KEEP THE REVS OUT OF THE STRATOSPHERE. i WAS EVEN THINKING EARLIER TODAY, AS i WAS GETTING READY TO ASSEMBLE A HEAD WITH A SPRING KIT FOR AN AFTERMARKET CAM THAT WHY WOULDN'T USING STOCK EXHAUST SPRINGS ON ALL LOBES BE A GOOD (READ: INEXPENSIVE) WAY TO BREAK IN THE CAM, SINCE i'VE GOT A BUCKET OF THEM LAYING AROUND. tHEY WOULD PROBABLY WORK UP TO 2500 WITHOUT ANY ILL EFFECTS.

SATCL

I'll have to check the free length and load at installed height to make sure there is some.
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #42 by pmuller9 » Fri Jul 19, 2019 9:35 pm

GPGoverMPG wrote:I got the recommended comp springs and retainers, cam degree kit, and the valve spring micrometer. The springs look pretty strong so I was wondering if I should leave the inner coils out for cam break in or run the stock springs. I had kind of thought to just run the full spring set up because it looks like it would be difficult to install the inners without removing the head. Still waiting for the machine shop to finish decking the block.

Yes you want to either break the cam in with the stock cam springs or remove the inner springs.
I either case you will need to install the new springs or the inner spring without taking the head off.
I bring the piston up to TDC so the valve cannot fall into the cylinder and put 100 psi of air in the cylinder.
It is important to secure the breaker bar so the air pressure can't push the piston down.
Then use a simple forked bar with a hole for the rocker stud to compress the valve spring. You can make one.
Example: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-25064/overview/

Do you have the head?

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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #43 by GPGoverMPG » Sat Jul 20, 2019 7:43 am

Yea I can make a tool. Was thinking of using old stamped rocker arm and welding a fork and handle to it. I've done the air thing using my leak down tester. Some times I use small rope to fill the cylinder and bring the piston up and the rope holds the valves closed. It's a manual trans so 4th gear and the e-brake set should keep the engine from turning. When I go to the machine shop for the block and pistons I will be dropping the head back off for the installation of screw in studs and have the spring locators cut away. I can sure run the stock springs and retainers if that's best. Thanks again
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #44 by GPGoverMPG » Thu Aug 29, 2019 7:25 am

Finally got to the machine shop and picked up my block that's been decked and the cam bearings installed. They also attached my pistons and rods. I also dropped the head back off to have the valve spring centering cut to match my new springs and be tapped for 7/16 studs. I get to have a little fun assembling the bottom end. I need to get my cam and lifters ordered. Getting parts put together sure clears up a lot of space in the shop.
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #45 by GPGoverMPG » Fri Sep 06, 2019 8:18 am

Going to pick up my cylinder head this morning all my engine machine work should be done at last. Tried using the link to EBay for the Cloyes timing gear set with the multiple key ways and the link did not work. I'm trying to purchase the remaining items I need to assemble the engine.

timing set
7/16 rocker studs
roller rockers - I found Crane has gold race roller rockers for the Chevy I6 that are about $100 cheaper than the Harland Sharp 3002-7. Are they any good, with the amount of money and time already tied up in this motor $100 is just a drop in the bucket but every drop helps.
oil pump and pick up
good water pump

Crank is set in the block and I'm hoping to install pistons this week end.

Good times and thanks for any and all help.
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #46 by pmuller9 » Fri Sep 06, 2019 9:05 am

GPGoverMPG wrote:I found Crane has gold race roller rockers for the Chevy I6 that are about $100 cheaper than the Harland Sharp 3002-7. Are they any good, with the amount of money and time already tied up in this motor $100 is just a drop in the bucket but every

Crane gold rockers are good. The Crane 13750-12 rocker is a 1.7 ratio rocker that will add more valve lift which is good in this case since you lose some valve lift because of tappet clearance.

What is the distance between the underside of the valve spring retainer and the head surface for all 12 valves?
The reason I'm asking is you may need valve spring shims to get the correct installed spring height.

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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #47 by GPGoverMPG » Fri Sep 06, 2019 1:38 pm

I am sure I will need to shim the springs for the correct installed spring height. I have the micrometer but have not yet measured for the shims I will need. I believe I'll need to end up at a height of 1.70". I need to see if my stock locks fit my comp cam retainers then purchase what I need for that as well. Thanks
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #48 by Phase3 » Fri Sep 06, 2019 9:24 pm

GPGoverMPG wrote:Going to pick up my cylinder head this morning all my engine machine work should be done at last. Tried using the link to EBay for the Cloyes timing gear set with the multiple key ways and the link did not work.


I have a cloyes adjustable set in the 300 4.9 i just pulled out. I bought a comp cam kit for my new motor and it came with a double cast iron course tooth set. From what ive heard so far, the cast iron is no louder than the aluminum. You can hear both of them for sure. To gain adjustment without trick keyways is another story.
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #49 by GPGoverMPG » Sat Oct 05, 2019 8:06 am

I have been so busy at the shop working on other peoples stuff I have no got much done on my own engine. I still need to get my head assembled and the cam ordered. I have been trying to take care of the little stuff though. I'm having trouble finding the part that screws into the block and holds the oil filter. I've ordered several but none of them where correct. Thanks
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Re: Picked up my block and pistons from machine shop.

Post #50 by sdiesel » Sun Oct 13, 2019 5:58 am

for the oil filter adapter threaded union, please let me suggest u go to wrecker, and get the entire oil cooler from a 460 pick up.
the threaded piece being most valuable.
should get the works for 15 or so.
a long love affair with the 300 six.
my lastest and final fling is a fresh 300 in an 88 ford f350 dually 4X flatbed

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