something went wrong

rustywagon":2ndmnbsh said:
I meant oil pan, I dropped it to remove all rest of metal pieces.
Do I actually have to remove the pan to put new seal in or is it possible to do it just dropped... ?
If I have remove the pan completely, I'd prefer to remove torsion bar. Do I need special tool to put it back?, or it's just take it out, place it in process...
friend told me it's pita to put torsion bar back..., but I am not sure about it.
Thank you. Michal

You could replace them without dropping the oil pan completely. But if you have metal in the bottom of the pan how will you be sure it's all cleaned out? Where did all the metal come from? There where no torsion bars used on any stock Falcon front suspensions. Do you mean the steering centerlink or the round tube crossmember under the engine? Do you have some pictures of what you mean? Good luck (y) :nod:
 
I am not sure if I used correct terminology, it's tube running under front of oil pan, see on picture. The pan now "sits" on that tube.
I dropped the pan a bit, I used magnet to get all metal chunks out.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4956.jpg
    IMG_4956.jpg
    105.1 KB · Views: 295
  • IMG_4957.jpg
    IMG_4957.jpg
    95.4 KB · Views: 295
That's your sway bar/anti-roll bar. You may be able to just unbolt the bshing straps that bolt to the frame and get enough play to work it out.
 
no. no tention (till cornering).
Remove pan, fulsh. Look @ particles for more info, ck screen...
 
The "upper" bushings resp. all bushings on stabilizer bar need to be replaced as well, I guess I should replace all since I will remove it.... But, I can't find online. Would you post a link if you have, preferably kit, resp. all bushings. Thank you. I will jump in it tomorrow.
 
Yes those two kits should supply all the worn out bushing and link parts. The sway bar is very easy to remove and replace again., as long as you first disconnect the upper A Arm links with the weight of the car on the suspension. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
Hi Michal, how are you doing on the Wagon? We're you able to find the Camshaft Spacer Ring and new Thrust plate so you can put the timing chain set back in your 200? Good luck (y) :nod:
 
Hi guys, I contacted maybe 20 machinist around, all turned me away, the job was to small to do.... If someone has a spare one or can make one, I will gladly pay you. Car is still in same shape as on last picture, doing the sway bar this weekend.
 
local school? prt sm enuff to mail - further away machinist? national shop?

Post in our Wanted as guys sell "rusty motors' & other things they don't want.

Many 'bronK' vendors throw away the i6 (there R over a doz nationally) to in-
stall SBF. Hit up any of the guys in the BB form by PM, we can list out these
guys.

Last, advertise on CB the world renown bronk site in their Wanted section...
Can you tell where I'm comin from? :unsure: :idea: :roll:
 
I believe I may have a spare cam plate and that spacer ring as well.
PM me your address and if I can find them this weekend, I'll mail them to you n/c.
DannyG
 
I went to local engine re builder, he picked up phone, called somewhere and told me I can pick up the part Monday afternoon. I will let you guys know if I get it. Thank you for all your help, Michal
 
WoW. I'd like to hear more abt that.
Don't do anything that would squash a longer term relationship wid dis guy !
In fact when U C him tell'em I'll name my 1st son after him if I can get the 2 'lift eyes' offa his motor...
(y)
 
removed sway bar, replacing freeze plugs and will put oil pan back, the gasket for oil pan is made of cork, do i put any sealant on it? Is there any torque recommendation on it, or just "feel" it....
 
After many years I can tell by the feel, but the correct factory torque is 8 to 10 Ft LB's on oil Pan and valve cover bolts.

Did you get al the correct parts to install the timing set and the then install of the front cover / with the front Dampener also back on? If not you should do all those first before installing your oil pan. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
found the torque in shop manual, it's 7-9.
why I should not install the oil pan before timing set etc.?
thank you, Michal
 
It's going to be very hard to get the timing cover to aline with its bolts hole locations as well as the front seal being in the proper location for the front Dampener with the oil pan installed. This is the reason I always install the front cover first along with the damper before I torque the front cover bolts then the last thing installed is the oil pan. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
Back
Top