250 build thread for my 65 mustang.

Finally had my crank gear broached so I could advance the cam. When we installed the cam is was at 113 and now we are at 108. Thanks to a friend who had a buddy that could do it for me. I will post a pic soon. I knew this might be a problem with the 250. I did call Crow cams in Aus. I told them I had a US 250 inline 6 and if they had a timing set the would work. So they got back to be and said they did. I bought it but is was smaller. I checked it to the 200 timing set and it is different then it. So the US 250 and Aus 250 pre crossflow are different. I will also have to deal with fitting a/c to the engine. So I will post pics of how I end up doing it. I am hoping to fit the engine in the car next week. So that I can figure out the motor mounts and what modifications I have to do.
 
Here is a pic of the crank gear with a new notch to advance the cam. Not sure how he figured how much to do. But it worked. I measured for my pushrods and will have them Tues. Hopefully next week I can fit engine into the car. I will update with how I end up mounting engine.
 

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Nice build.

Where'd you get your export brace?
 

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I havent seen anyone ask yet but where did you get that main girdle from? Import from AUS? id be interested to know.
 
Nice work, 65-coupe.



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https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-250-4- ... 1663065033
Seller information
ford-speed (1566 :shockin: )
100% Positive feedback

Like the Holden 308 timing chain for the 302 crank gear Mike 1157 uses, you can use parts from other engines.

Here is former forum member MarkZE's fully enclosed version.

http://fordcortina.com.au/newforum/inde ... opic=260.0

cortinaTDs.jpg


ARP studs, and a girdle which clamps over the caps. The caps are now machined flat to suit. The following measurements applied to the stud length:

Block thread depth: 1”
Main Cap height: 2.2”
Girdle thickness: 3/8”
Nut and Washer grip length: 9/16”
Exposed threads above nut: Approx 3/8”

A 7/16” UNC x 4.5” long ARP stud will be required. So far I am told a 308 Holden V8 head stud should be the right size and thread to suit.
 
62Cometman":2seg1kgu said:
I havent seen anyone ask yet but where did you get that main girdle from? Import from AUS? id be interested to know.

I ordered it off Aus Ebay. it included ARP studs with the kit.
 
So I finally have the engine in. I did have to modify my trans cross member. Which included lengthening the bolt holes and cut and weld the e-brake bracket. I have it as low as I can get it with it not hitting the steering center link. I have 2 1/8" of clearance from the water pump to radiator. I will be running one 16" electric fan and an 8". I will install my hooker headers after I break the cam in. then install new 2.25" exhaust. Still have to figure lower radiator hose and redo the A/C lines for a cleaner look. My 200 A/C bracket will work and line up. Should have my 3G alternator and mini starter this week.
 

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It's looking good. I love the makeshift stand. Didn't I sell you my flywheel and clutch?
 
Nice! I hope it works out for your 250. It looked like a nice setup. As far as I could see it was never driven even though I pulled it off the motor after I got it. I think the kid I bought my 250 from pulled the engine and went through it and made some plans, like that billet flywheel and new clutch, but then went for a v8 and sold it to me before it ever went back in the car. He claimed he drove it 40 miles or so. And it's a good thing to, b'c he would have been running somewhere around 8:1 compression with the new gaskets and no other work done on a virgin block. Tijuana tune-up+ ;) lol
 
65coupei6":aiqoiosg said:
Any updates??

Then engine is in nd I moved it on its own yesterday. The hooker headers sit to low so I am not able to use them. So I installed the CI headers but the down pipes are not low enough. So I have to modify them to clear the cross brace for the trans mount. I had to use the new Flex A Lite 16" wave fan to clear water pump pulley. I also installed a 8" fan too. Hopefully I will be driving it next week. I installed my stock alternator bracket to the A/C bracket to clear the headers.
 

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I also had new A/C lines made.
 

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Everything looks top notch.

Would it be possible to fill the long tube headers with sand (to avoid crimping), heat them and bend the lower section up and to an acceptable angle?

Just an idea ...
 
Really nice work! I was wondering how the headers would fit since the height was changed. All in all. I think the modifications you did with cutting and welding mounts, brackets, etc are all worth it in the end. I can not wait to see the article.

Some questions. Are you keeping the CI valve cover? Did you install baffles? Also, what year are the upper and lower radiator hoses from?

Lastly, is your battery in the trunk? If it is. I saw a nice mod at a Cars and Coffee event. The guy lowered the solenoid and used a piece of rubber and shaped it for a mount. Attached is a pic.
 

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65coupei6":1vtr0ani said:
Really nice work! I was wondering how the headers would fit since the height was changed. All in all. I think the modifications you did with cutting and welding mounts, brackets, etc are all worth it in the end. I can not wait to see the article.

Some questions. Are you keeping the CI valve cover? Did you install baffles? Also, what year are the upper and lower radiator hoses from?

Lastly, is your battery in the trunk? If it is. I saw a nice mod at a Cars and Coffee event. The guy lowered the solenoid and used a piece of rubber and shaped it for a mount. Attached is a pic.
Yes the battery is in trunk. I installed the Moroso baffled gromets. The radiator hoses are from a 69 mustsng 250.
 
That is an awesome build. I too have a 250 in my 65. What did you use for the motor mounts to lower the engine in the engine bay? I saw the pictures but cant tell what they are from. I'm running stock 200 mounts and the engine barely leaves any room for a carb or air cleaner.
 
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