200 Cylinder Head Machining Opinions

Harlon

Well-known member
Attached are photos of a an EOBE cylinder head that is being sold in my localish area. Guy is selling this head with a number of other items. I have a 79 200 in my car, I’m looking to do the machine work from the manual to my cylinder head this fall. With the extras; cam, carb, HEI distributeor it seems like a viable shortcut.

I have no experience as to what a well machined head should look like. Can the forum experts please take a look and tell me if this at least looks good.

Specifically the 2 barrel carb flange, the valves, retainers, chambers and the valve train.

At least visually it looks to me that the rockers and valves don’t fit properly. The tips don’t line up with the centers of the valves or cups with the pushrod holes.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I got the build sheet-ish for the head. I can’t convert to an image or I would add it here.

Only significant question: build sheet says that it is machined .040 to compensate for thicker modern cylinder head gaskets. Checking my book to maximize compression ratios it should be machined .075 (I think).

Deal breaker, or?
 
I don't think so as it Shouldn't be all that much to have head resurfaced some more compared to starting from fresh by having the 2V plate installed, valve job, and surfacing. You could take a picture of the sheet and then post it. (y) :nod:
 
You have you measure your engine after he head is off to know for sure how much to mill. .040" is a good start and more than compensates for the new gasket difference. If that head was here and hadn't been milled other than a clean up pass and was for a reasonable price I'd buy it in a heartbeat for my 250 if I knew it had been magnafluxed and I couldn't see any cracks. Esp around the center, 3 & 4, exhaust valve seats. It looks like they did a good job with the 2v from the pics. They did shift it fwd quite a bit and it looks like there's alot of the old mount blocking the fwd port. We know why they did that b/c there's not alot of meat aft and the 2300 flange is huge compared to the 1v. But it seems like that may be an impedance to flow on that fwd port.
 
It looks like a very nice modded head to me as long as there is no cracks.
The placement of the adapter is good and you could blend the old bolt boss if you wanted to.
 
"...Esp around the center, 3 & 4, exhaust valve seats. It looks like they did a good job with the 2v..."
agreed.

U could add the exh port divider if going 'tubes', 'pipes', 'headers'. It maintains the gasket'n directs the gasses better than w/o. 0 - minor HP/tq addition.

Thanks, for the picture.
 
Right on man! Looks like you're set up for a weber. I set mine up for a holley/autolite on my E0 head.

What did the guy do for a cover for the EGR part of the intake? Thats where mine has the aluminum plate on the side
 

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If all goes well with the exchange I should be purchasing the head sometime next week.

The seller and I are in different locales. He has a coworker who lives about forty minutes from me who has agreed to make the exchange.

Hopefully things won’t get funny having to use a go between. But the seller is closer to 4 hours from me and I just can’t work that out with my work and family responsibilities.

The head is supposed to be modded for a Holley/autolite 2100? I think.

The spec sheet says the builder selects uncracked heads and that they are hot tanked and magnafluxed.

Not sure about the egr, I haven’t seen that angle of the head.

Thanks,
Harlon
 
...spec sheet says the builder..."
get that info if U can (could B w/in 1 of 10 states). Others may B interested in contacting the shop,
glad U got it for ur own info. May not still B around (no info on when done) but worth a try...
(y)
 
If you can translate what Chad stated, it would be beneficial to get the spec sheet on the head.
If your 200 block is zero decked & with the head combustion chamber cc's @ 50 & with the small dished piston's you will have close to 9.5 compression.
The carb adapter is very nice, being machined at the correct angle to keep the carb level.
Sadly installing the exhaust divider in with all the machine work done, reheating the head would be taboo
for all the previous machine work.
Normally it takes a .070' to get that head down to close to 50 cc's.
Wish you the best.
 
"...installing the exhaust divider in with all the machine work done, reheating..."
other ways rather than 'reheat"

"can't read'em"
sorry, only one w/a learning disability? nah...I see plenty 'poor penmenship', spelling, 'sentence structure' here...
tryin to pull back but U guys have such interestin projects 4 me to follow, thnx!...
:oops:
 
Among other things, one of the first things I plan on doing is ccing the chambers.

Got to read up on how to go about doing that though.

The block is a 79 200. Untouched as far as I know. I’ll find out when I get the head off. I planned on pulling the head and having it machined this winter. With my budget I was probably only going to have the shop do the valves and .070 machining. Clean up what I could with my dremel. Then this head fell in my lap.

In another life I was an English major in college. I’d call Chads writing style “local color.” I love it. It gets a bit thick at times. But still luvit!

I think the builder is out west somewhere. I’ve seen his stuff on eBay before. Fingers crossed and I’ll know next week.
 
Chad rocks.

See
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=74545&p=574268&hilit=200+head#p574268

Buying used has risks, and results vary. Blaming others for collatoral damage can happen if a head gets cracked due to "life".

Hotvega 73 and his daughter Jeni Jones have fine reputations, but anything can happen. Two black marks from 2005 to date that Ive found. My first adaptor from New Zealand ended up being used on my own vehicle because I took too long to get my act together, so I refunded 64 Ecconoline. Thats called respect when you screw up.

When someone does you wrong, talk with them, and make sure you aren't including other attendant risks.

Welcome Mr H.
 
X,

From what I can tell that is the same builder for this head.

I’m going to buy it either way as the price gets me to far down the road to pass up.

Question though is: in one of the builders posts in that thread it says if the head is machined the bronze holding in the hard seats will melt and the seats will fall out. Does that mean I will be limited to the .040 machining it has currently/ I won’t be able to have anything additional milled off to get the chamber size where I’d like it without damaging the valve seats?

Thanks,
Harlon
 
You can do a mill pass after mill pass w/o a cutter touching the valves (as if truing the mating surface)

(Mine, on a different note, had a 6 piece vertical miller (like 6 bridgeports) that did "averaging'. All the CC's were milled at once to the same depth)...

cc the head to see where your is at. Then U start w/a known.
 
That is a high tech CNC process.
Another option if you need to do the valve seats as well is the use of a Serta machine not only to do all the valve seating, but also the combustion chamber area by the valve.
Chad used a high tech approch which is perfection.
I had the Serta deal used to relieve the shrouding of the chamber wall on the intake.
Really helped the flow.
 
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