200 Cylinder Head Machining Opinions

Harlon":2o2xd0u4 said:
X,

From what I can tell that is the same builder for this head.

I’m going to buy it either way as the price gets me to far down the road to pass up.

Question though is: in one of the builders posts in that thread it says if the head is machined the bronze holding in the hard seats will melt and the seats will fall out. Does that mean I will be limited to the .040 machining it has currently/ I won’t be able to have anything additional milled off to get the chamber size where I’d like it without damaging the valve seats?

Thanks,
Harlon
I believe what he is talking about is, if you give him a head that has been rebuilt with hard seats, they will fall out when he furnace brazes on the adapter.
You should be good to mill the head or machine what ever.
 
prt of the job is dissasembly, reassembly (negotiate).
If U have no valve spring tool - local big box stores 'rent for free' or loan.
 
That looks to be an excellent deal for all those items and the head. :nod:
 
StarDiero75":1ty92oeh said:
Right on man! Looks like you're set up for a weber. I set mine up for a holley/autolite on my E0 head.


What did the guy do for a cover for the EGR part of the intake? Thats where mine has the aluminum plate on the side

file.php


file.php

In non emissions places like UK and New Zealand, its normally done like this with a steel plate, two bolts. The hole is still open here, this is a plate spacer.

EGRblockoff.jpg


Factory late model replacements have the EGR hole Allen key/Cap screw plugged.

The B VIN code E0 casting head was used late in the D9 model year on some T codes...Ford were planning and like the 1965 IRS suspension Mustang, even documented a 2BBL 3.3 for 1979, but opted to do a 255 2-bbl 120 hp V8 for 1980 instead.


this item below an XE stamped factory 100% correct experimental head with the eventual E0 spec 2-bbl EGR and casting variations planned. Everything has Fords engineering numbers etched in. Dead easy to block off the EGR.

hEAD_MITT20XE20201090_eX20D7BE9430CA50CA_CARB_XD9BE94588BB_VAC20POD_XE201596_5963_31.jpg
 
xctasy":3sypqu7p said:
StarDiero75":3sypqu7p said:
Right on man! Looks like you're set up for a weber. I set mine up for a holley/autolite on my E0 head.


What did the guy do for a cover for the EGR part of the intake? Thats where mine has the aluminum plate on the side

file.php


file.php

Normally, its done like this.

EGRblockoff.jpg


Factory late model replacements have the EGR hole Allen key/Cap screw plugged. The B VIN code E0 casting head was used late in the D9 model year on some T codes
They make a plug for it? I can't thread mine since the clearance is pretty slim between the top of the hole to the carb adapter mounting surface. I think I'm looking at .070, and i don't feel comfortable tapping that. Unless its tapped in...
 
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=77253&p=594656&hilit=e0+head#p594656

xctasy":398q72gj said:
ponikorjaamo's EGR was blanked off

holley1946_16.jpg


So they
1. swapped the postion of the vacuum tee, and

2. got the integrated EGR port which was another reason why the volume increased.

3. The casting was optimised to suit the emissions targets, and the first changes were the two mods above.


Code:

For 1980 to 1983, man vac (Item 17 on my VECI list) is on a hex port, capped off with a hex grub screw in 1bad6t's photos

http://1bad6t.com/Extra2/14-E-BE-BB.jpg

http://1bad6t.com/Extra2/intake-boss.jpg
 
1. Blank off the EGR by removing the whole valve, and place one of these hand made metal plates over it. Use the existing gasket as a template to seal it.

DSC02303.jpg


DSC02304.jpg



This how the 1976 yo 2004 New Zealand market Australian 3.3 and 4.1 liter cars with EGR were "de-emissionised"


For service items that weren't used in full emissions cars, Ford US supplied Allen Key/Hex headed "grub screws" to cover up non functional manifold vacuum ports.


Like Ford New Zealand did

39546b5f.jpg


These come in various sizes, and you can use them if you wish.



Here is the brilliant Luke76 (He has sensational write ups on the emissions parts for his F150 truck, 1980 258 AMC Jeep), and who has a Granada with 250 engine, same cylinder head. The vacuum tee is capped off like .

His pictures don't link know tho....


Other side of the engine, also down to bare metal, ready for paint.



Engine after applying a coat of POR 15, then a second coat of engine enamel (the color coat). I still need to paint the top of my dipstick white. I didn't paint the head because it is going to be replaced anyway.



One of the many accessory brackets as it came off the engine.



Same bracket, cleaned, treated, and painted.
 
I made me a hand made plate out of aluminum. The problem is that when i milled for the 2bbl, i had to go down pretty far to get a decent sealing surface. Which gave me a super thin area from the milled surface on the log to the EGR port. I think its about 70 thousandths in gap between the 2. Should that be an issue sealing it? Or am I better off JB welding a plug in there or something? Or just use a cut my own paper gasket stuff?

I was thinking about drilling a hole and tapping my plate for .25" NPT so i could have another vacuum port rather just the one on top of the log. I might add power brakes in the future and figured it'd be nice to have that option.
 

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if there's enuff 'meat' (area frm 'hole' up to newly milled surface for carb/adapter) obviously go fer a plug system.
Plenty of cutting fluid'n a nice tap, back'n frth rather than just straight powerin thru, make straight enuff to put sompin in that will not B crooked'n hit adapter. Plan the 4 or 6 point head so as 2 B able to wrench. But some planning 1st.

One of the rules on machinin is "sequence of operations'. Lota of planning 1st, Do Not pick up the tools B4 the whole
system is figured out. This would have been a 1st not last step. Anyway, there's wrk-a-rounds (may B).

The planning here is "What sz hole/treads do I need for what sz plug such that I can remove later'n insert a useful tap/nipple?"
"PPPP" is it: proper planning prior to production?
Again, Y go thru alota head skratchin after (& may B no solution) after when it wrks beddah B4?
Keep talkin, we're here...
(y)
 
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