Return spring placement on carb?

notar61

Active member
Hello,

I have a 1968 200 straight six that was out of a 1968 Mustang. It's got an Autolite 1100 carb on it.

I can't figure out the placement of the return spring on the carb linkage.

I have what I believe is the correct spring, I just don't know where to attach it. I've seen people attach it down by the exhaust manifold, but I've also seen people stretch it out and anchor it on the alternator bracket. Does anyone have any ideas or pictures of a similar setup?

I'm attaching pictures of the engine/carb as is and a picture of the spring too. Thanks for any info!

-Andrew
 

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1 or the other of the 2 exh bolts below might wrk, can't C tho cuz the spring is not held up there.
I C 2 different holes on the linkage, don't wrk? U can also adj (shorten, bend new hook) the spring.
 
notar61":8y1hyzu9 said:
What does the spring hook to on the end of the log intake? Should there be a hole or bracket there?
Theres a lip then theres plug at the end of the intake, it just its in there. Nothing special. No hole, no special bracket. Just a lip where it grabs onto
 
Hi, I can't really say how to attach carb return springs, but I see a Duraspark module in the picture. The modern (and very good ignition)
does not work with the old SVC carb.
You can learn about this with the Falcon Performance Handbook and get the most out of your Ford Six. Good luck
 
X2 Yes you should have gotten the better 1968 Autolite carb instead (is a non SCV carb) so it can work with your excellent DuraSpark II ignistion system. So can you return that wrong year carb? If not it can be modded to a ported vacuum carb fairly easy. Also there are many ways you can hook up the throttle return spring they can all can work well. You can make or buy a simple tab with two holes, one to mount on the exhaust manifold bolt beside the carb linkage plus a smaller hole to use as an eye for the spring you have. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
Bubba22349 - man that's a bummer. I was figuring this carb was a 1968 since it came with the 1968 200CID engine I got out of a 1968 Mustang.

Any tips on how to mod it to be a ported vacuum carb? That's probably my best route now.

-Andrew
 
Hi notar61, this is actually a very common problem with these Ford sixes! Over years and with people working on them not knowing which parts will work together, then with this lack of knowledge of year differences or info the wrong parts often get used. Like most the time the an early carb is being used with a later distributor or in some cases a newer carb with an early LOD distributor either way you will have a mismatch of the parts that doesn’t work or perform correctly.

Since you already have one of the very best distributors installed you are well on the way to even better performance than the earlier 1960 to 1966 engines had. By 1966 Ford was moving in this direction for the California emissions built engines / cars and by 1968 all of the Ford engines had the duel advance distributors being used with the later non SCV carbs.

With the Autolite 1100 (an excellent carb) your in luck as there is an easy mod made to them that will allow it to match up perfectly to the later model distributors. "Wsa111" posted the article “Drop A Load” that shows you how to do this mod see below link. I think he also still dose these services for those that may not want to tackle this carb job themselves. Good luck on your Six (y) :nod:

Drop A Load
viewtopic.php?f=99&t=76821
 
this is not knuckle draggin. It is a technical, scientific endeavor. Get up to speed or continue to pay the costs.
References have been made in ur own interest, here again:
'the Handbook"
and
the above tech archive at the big blue box, top of the page. Click on the crossed screwdriver/wrench. Study the
SCV/LOM system for enlightenment. On yer way out bow to the guru. Stick around, U R one too !
 
The accelerator pedal maybe binding from the carpet or linkage problems on the inside of the cabin??
I have seen the rubber grommet at the firewall also cause this condition.
 
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