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300 Mild Build for 1941 International Pickup

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Catbert
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300 Mild Build for 1941 International Pickup

Post #1 by Catbert » Mon Sep 09, 2019 7:37 pm

I am working to restore my family's 1941 International K2 pickup and have opted to replace the original 214 CI "Green Diamond" I6 with a Ford 300 CI I6. I managed to drive home a 1985 Ford F150 with the noted engine mated to a 2WD C4/C5. The engine ran fine and is covered in equipment that doesn't quite feel at home in the International (smog pump, A/C, EEC IV, etc.). In the process of preparing the engine for the transplant, I thought I would take some time to run through a mild build and am looking for input as to where I can make small improvements for the better.

The International will be driven in town, to the grocery store, hardware store, church and the occasional car show. My goal is simplicity and reliability while also being able to pull hard when the throttle is depressed although I don't plan on taking the truck to the track. I am looking for nice throttle response through low to mid-range operation, no need for it to spin at 4000+ RPM. I have a non-OD transmission right now but plan to move to an AOD down the line. Aiming for 4.10s in the rear axle (Ford Explorer 8.8 with limited slip) and approximately 30" tires. Considering the limited intended usage, running higher octane fuel is no problem.

I've included my intended parts list below (for myself and others' reference) with a handful of questions. I expect that my bottleneck is going to be fuel delivery given the proposed Motorcraft 2150 2-barrel carburetor and/or fuel/air delivery due to the stock camshaft.

Chevy rockers seem like a good way to open up the valves a bit more aggressively but I am having a hard time following the thread that describes applicability, it seems like I need to double-check my engine configuration:
/viewtopic.php?t=48364

Swapping on a 240 cylinder head sounds like it would be good for a few tenths of a point towards CR:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1426 ... 300-a.html

What am I missing or skipping over that I should be taking care of while I have the engine partially torn down and moving from one vehicle to another?

Ignition System
Ignition Module
Ignition Module Mount/Heat Sink
Distributor
Distributor Harness Connector
Coil
Coil Harness Connector
Coil Mount
    Other than sourcing a mount from a junkyard, does anyone have a single-hole mounting coil bracket for the GM e-coil?
Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Wires

Fuel Delivery
Fuel Pump
    Stock engine pump.
    Are there differences in the mechanical engine-driven pumps based on the year or options? If so, is there a particularly desirable pump?
Carburetor
    Motorcraft 2150
    1.21" Venturi
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Barrel-2150- ... 6e7ddda89e
    Given the intended application, I expect that the 1.21" venturi would be the best fit but the 1.08" may work as well. Thoughts?
    I understand that one of the major differences between the Motorcraft 2100 and 2150 is the two stage power valve. How critical is this given the intended application?
Carburetor Adapter/Spacer

Air Delivery
Intake
Intake Manifold Heater
    Raso Enterprises KIT0008
    http://autoparts.rasoenterprises.com/in ... rd-240-300
    I understand a few threads have reviewed the "compatibility" between the Offenhauser intakes and the water heating kits and the general concensus seems to be "use at your own risk but no one has actually seen any resulting damage" - is this still the case?

Exhaust
Exhaust Manifold
    Ford 4.9 EFI Exhaust Manifolds
    I understand that the EFI manifolds have a bit more open area than the manifolds equipped on the pre-EFI engines but have also heard that they benefit substantially from some cleaning up on the inside of the casting - how critical is polishing the inside of these manifolds?

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GPGoverMPG
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Location: South central texas

Re: 300 Mild Build for 1941 International Pickup

Post #2 by GPGoverMPG » Tue Sep 10, 2019 7:04 am

Neat old truck, should be a blast to get running.
71 F350 4x4 Super Duty 7.3 IDI
72 F250 4x4 4speed 300 I6
72 F100 2x 428 Tri Power
2014 SHO

Lazy JW
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Location: Careywood, Idaho

Re: 300 Mild Build for 1941 International Pickup

Post #3 by Lazy JW » Tue Sep 10, 2019 7:59 am

I love it! :D :thumbup: :nod:
"The White OX" 1974 F-350 300-6, Stock single exhaust, Carter YF, T-18A, Dana70 w/4.11, Flatbed dually w/dump bed. "Where no oxen are, the crib is clean, but much increase is by the strength of the ox" (Proverbs 14:4)
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pmuller9
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Location: Columbus, Indiana

Re: 300 Mild Build for 1941 International Pickup

Post #4 by pmuller9 » Tue Sep 10, 2019 9:33 am

The 1985 300 has pedestal mount rockers so the Chevy six rockers will not work.
Remove the valve cover to verify.

The stock cam will not give you very good throttle response.
The increased valve lift helps but you will not see a big improvement till you increase both lift and duration.

The Offenhauser "C" intake manifold doesn't have carburetor orientation issues like the DP and also provides good low to midrange power.

Before you take the engine apart do a cylinder leakdown test to see what condition it is in.

Catbert
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Re: 300 Mild Build for 1941 International Pickup

Post #5 by Catbert » Tue Sep 10, 2019 6:57 pm

pmuller9 wrote:The 1985 300 has pedestal mount rockers so the Chevy six rockers will not work.
Remove the valve cover to verify.


I will pull the valve cover off to verify. From my understanding, a 1985 head should have the pedestal mount rockers (/viewtopic.php?t=48364) and I should be able to verify the manufacturing date of the block based on the casting number on the passenger side of the block (/viewtopic.php?t=48363).

I am getting some mixed messages around whether or not this head CAN be used with the "Chevy Rockers". "The Chevrolet Rocker thread." seems to indicate that you NEED pedestal mount rockers which is found on a 1985 head and can then use rockers from "any 192/250/292 cubic inch chevy inline six" (/viewtopic.php?t=48364).

The same thread goes on to say that if this head is used (a pedestal mount head), a pushrod guideplate conversion kit would be needed.

Your comment and the thread seem to offer differing guidance, can you help me to better understand your recommendation?

pmuller9 wrote:The stock cam will not give you very good throttle response.
The increased valve lift helps but you will not see a big improvement till you increase both lift and duration.


The stock cam is noted as having the following properties (based on the "catalog of conceptual build plans" thread viewtopic.php?f=2&t=79408):
STOCK FORD
.397”/.397” 192/192 268/268 110deg 18 70 58 30 @.006”

Can you provide a recommendation for a mild cam based on the intake, exhaust and carburetor selection? Again, I'd like to maintain drivability and throttle response up through at least approximately 3200 RPM.

The "catalog of conceptual build plans" thread (viewtopic.php?f=2&t=79408) has a handful of cams listed but they aren't given in the context of the rest of the build.

pmuller9 wrote:The Offenhauser "C" intake manifold doesn't have carburetor orientation issues like the DP and also provides good low to midrange power.


I've heard mixed reviews regarding the Offenhauser C-series intake at the low to mid-range power band (up to 3200 RPM?). Do you have experience with this intake in this range?

I understand that due to the square bore and lack of intake plane, orientation of the carb can be "straight ahead" versus "turned 90 deg". How does facing the carb "ahead" interact with the intake versus being "turned 90 deg"? The venturis still seem to line up better with the intake runners when it is turned but given the size of the intake opening AND a 1" carb adapter, I can see how the fuel would be atomized sufficiently and could mix with the air appropriately in the "straight ahead" orientation. The "Clifford vs Offenhauser intakes" thread (viewtopic.php?t=29464) seems to indicate that on the C-series intake, pointing the carb "straight ahead" shouldn't be a concern.

pmuller9 wrote:Before you take the engine apart do a cylinder leakdown test to see what condition it is in.


Thanks, that's good advice. I plan on picking up a "spare" engine and transmission before starting the swap to serve as my template however depending on the condition of each engine I may switch components (even major ones) as needed.

pmuller9
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Re: 300 Mild Build for 1941 International Pickup

Post #6 by pmuller9 » Tue Sep 10, 2019 9:29 pm

I need to clarify my remarks.
If you have a pedestal mount head you can use the Crane stud mount conversion kit in order to swap over to the Chevy six 1.75 ratio rocker but IMO the cost of the kit plus the cost of the rockers is not worth the gains in performance.

The Ford 300/4.9 head is way undersized in relation to the cylinder displacement and is the bottle neck to performance.
A 300 six cylinder size is equivalent to a 400 V8.

What we found is that as you increase cam duration and lift there is a gain in torque from just above an idle all the way through the power band.
The more recent engine builds that have installed larger valves, port work 4 bbl carbs and headers or EFI exhaust manifolds have very high torque gains from 1000 to 1200 rpm and can pull hard to 5000 rpm with cams that have .050" durations around 220 degrees. Stock cam is 192 degrees.
There are at least 4 builds in this category and many more based on the Comp 218 degree cam.

I'm not suggesting that you need to go to that far but just pointing out that any cam change over stock will yield good results.
Some of the so called torque cams in the 208 degree range work well with stock rocker arms.
Because the pedestal mount heads use shorter valves than the early heads the valve lift must be kept under .500" with margin.
There are 2 present builds here that are installing the ERSON E270101 cam.
Specs are .448"/.448" 208/208 280/280 110deg (Actual .006" duration is 270)

A 4 bbl carb works well with the cam change because you spend most of the time on the primaries which can be smaller than the 2 bbl carbs and the secondaries will allow the 300 to breath for better WOT power.
The 300 six likes big carburetors.

Catbert wrote:I understand that the EFI manifolds have a bit more open area than the manifolds equipped on the pre-EFI engines

The reason the EFI manifolds provide a performance gain is they isolate cylinders 1,2,3 from 4,5,6 while also turning the exhaust flow away from each exhaust port and toward the exit.
This creates scavenging for each cylinder and a second scavenging pulse when 1,2,3 merge with 4,5,6 at the "Y"
A log manifold relies on the exhaust system after the manifold to create any type of scavenging.

IMO the best ignition combination for gas mileage and low rpm response is the Duraspark 2 distributor with the MSD 6A ignition box and MSD coil.

F-250 Restorer
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Re: 300 Mild Build for 1941 International Pickup

Post #7 by F-250 Restorer » Sun Sep 15, 2019 1:46 pm

That looks like a very nice truck.

That distributor is a knock-off, a cheap copy, made, most likely, in Mexico. I think you'll have better luck getting a used motorcraft on ebay or in the J/Y and having it rebuilt and recurved, or even putting in the Summit HEI distributor for that engine.

With the cooling plate you should weld all joints. I left two joints unwelded, and of course they worked loose and leaked. I also extend the hose connection arms 7", so you can r&r hoses without using a mirror to look under the intake.

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bubba22349
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Location: Flagstaff, Az. 86005 near the old Route 66

Re: 300 Mild Build for 1941 International Pickup

Post #8 by bubba22349 » Sun Sep 15, 2019 5:58 pm

:beer: cool looking "1941 Corn Binder" should be a fun truck to build and the 300 is going to be a great engine for it. Good luck on the build. :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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