My Budget 250 build

Thanks guys I appreciate any suggestions, even though I have been working on cars a long time (mostly I6, mostly this car :p ) it has been 30+ years since I have done anything this involved and my first 250 for sure so everyone here is an invaluable source of information and wisdom.

Been re-reading through the Falcon Six Performance Handbook for the 1000th time.

65coupei6":2q496okr said:
As for the push rods. you can buy an adjustable rod to help you measure. Or just make one. Just cut the rod in half. thread the ends and use a coupler. (just like your throttle linkage).

Thanks for the idea I think that is what I will do, I will have to look around for a cup and ball pushrod I have to have something lying around because I never throw out anything :roll:

I will certainly be keeping this thread updated as I work through the rebuild, and will post my sorrows as well as successes :p

See Ya,
Mike
 
First mistake I made, so far, on the engine re-assembly. I really did not think about it and just ordered a rebuild kit (gaskets, bearings and rings) for a 250. The rod bearings don't work, I did not even think about needing 2.5L I4 rod bearings :roll:

I was out putting as much together as I could, mostly wanted to get the crank installed because I figure the safest location for it is bolted in the block, so I installed the new .010 under main bearings and the rear main seal and got the caps all torqued down to specs,

I had let my piston ring compressor get peed on by rodents while packed away so it was rusted up pretty bad and need to get a new one so I was pretty much finished with what I could do today, I thought I would go ahead and get the piston rings installed and put the rod bearings in so I would be ready when I got a new compressor to install pistons and found that the bearings would not line up properly.

94da4d250e4598d67c067c28cfce0afc.jpg


it looks like the notch is in a slightly different location and on the HSC rods the notch is slightly narrower. I checked on RockAuto's web site and the part numbers between the two bearings are not the same, it appears all dimensions match otherwise, going to order 6 HSC rod bearings today, they are pretty cheap like $2.50 each so not a costly error at least.

Also I I didn't get a gasket for the oil pump to block with the new pump or the gasket set, can I just use "Great Stuff" gasket maker/sealer instead of finding a gasket?

See Ya,
Mike
 
That's interesting on those HSC rod bearings being different on the tang location. I used to use the oil pump to block gaskets on my builds, now days most people usally don't so using a little solicone works just fine. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
Got the HSC rod bearings today, much better fit.
37cb96cc6b0ca7f8cdeeb832bec7eff3.jpg


Still waiting on my ring compressor, but as soon as it gets here I will put these in.

See Ya,
Mike
 
I ended up ordering a set of '65 Galaxie FE pushrods for a solid lifter motor, I got them yesterday, here they are compared to the original 250 pushrods;
a94926d2a156902f1d9cd133d07bbe87.jpg


Looks like they should work ok.

See Ya,
Mike
 
Maybe a first post with some real world results, I put my pistons in today and torqued the rod bolts to the ARP recommended 35#
ab83b58aa531af7e5e3532a5ba0f7ffb.jpg


The piston deck height is much better, a .013 feeler gauge drags slightly under a straight edge, way better than the 1/8" that was there before.
2181fefc9f4faaaa269f984810e7ded4.jpg


The extra cut on the piston top was done to keep the CR down a little, the machinist thought we were right around 10:1 with the stock dish, in hindsight I should have had him get a set of California emission pistons with a 13cc dish but did not think about it at the time, I think you can see why the Aussie pistons would have protruded here but it might not have been too much, I think this will work ok. If it wasn't for having to wait months to get a replacement set of Aussie .030 over pistons I would have got them because he said he could have turned the top of the piston down to zero deck.

I am not sure what the CC of that dish is, I will try and measure it tomorrow, it is obviously the same depth as the stock piston just bigger around.

I test fitted my water pump and timing cover as well, I need to pick up some stainless bolts for the timing cover because the bolt set(s) that I have are all for a 200, I have my original bolts I will just match those in stainless.
cf4b3a3e4bccd967498e6707a8d8ae81.jpg


Still need to get the cam and timing set ordered so I can get the short block finished up.

See Ya,
Mike
 
If my math is right :roll: the dish in the top of the piston is approx. 12.63cc

The measurements I used, which are not perfect are top of dish is 8.468cm across, bottom is 7.957cm and the depth is .238cm.

I can just use liquid sometime to get actual numbers but did not have time today to try and collect stuff up or to do it anyway (it was quick to do the rough measure :p )

See Ya,
Mike
 
:beer: looks like it’s shaping up to a good combo Mike! And you still can adjust it a little with the choice of head gaskets Victor at .044 or FelPro at .050, and if you could find a .020 to .022 steel or copper head gasket you would have about the perfect quench. Good luck (y) :nod: Edited
 
Update, I know I have not said anything it quite some time, the reason is I haven't had anything to tell you.

That changed today but more of a teaser than a meaty post :roll: The machine shop called today and my head is ready to pickup, yes it took that long :p I dropped off the head when I picked up the block, at least I got it back in 2019 :LOL:

Going to get it tomorrow so I will show picts, He told me he CC'ed the chambers and they measure 60cc and should give me 9.5 compression ratio, I was worried we were going to be pushing 10 and really did not want it that high because I want to use really available gas.

Time to get serious about a cam now that I have all the numbers I need (I think)

See Ya,
Mike
 
got a quick way to figure ur new "oil line" on the dip stick after changin the pan?
I wuz thinkin I could pour water in the pan to a certain hight & measure the amount or some
arrangement like that.
Ideas on keepin it safe?
 
chad":ujtnsvtl said:
got a quick way to figure ur new "oil line" on the dip stick after changin the pan?

I made my dipstick tube the same height at the top as the one on there already, that should be a safe level, the pickup is just off the bottom of the pan like it was before just moved to the rear.

It shouldn't make a difference on how deep your pan is as long as the oil covers the pickup and is close to the original depth. I think there is a rule as to how close to the bottom your pickup should be, I just tried to match everything to factory specs.

I have no idea how many quarts my pan holds, I will just keep filling and checking until I reach full on the stick and then I will know my capacity.

I have removed my original tube and plugged the hole.

See Ya,
Mike
 
OK, thanks.
"... removed my original tube and plugged the hole...."
Didn't C that, I saw a new 1 in the pan.

Yep, got the p/u 1/8 inch offa the pan floor (even tho increased capacity xxx amount)
Will try'n use the same ol tube up by the dizzy. Wuz gunna try the ol 170 one in the pan. It is preferable~
(grafted a 170 pan to the 250 ring)
I guess my fingers work (made up this frankinstien) but my mind keeps gettin in the way.

How do I determine sufficient oil in the crankcase and also a correct indicator on the stick?
Use the stick the way it was? Make a new line? I don't think I need to fashion up a longer stick? The thing seems to indicate a
level in the block, not in the pan...
 
chad":2qd0hc6d said:
How do I determine sufficient oil in the crankcase and also a correct indicator on the stick?
Use the stick the way it was? Make a new line? I don't think I need to fashion up a longer stick? The thing seems to indicate a
level in the block, not in the pan...

One way is to put the original stick in the original spot without the pan, measure from the tip of the stick to the bottom edge of the block, block is your base measurement, if the stick is say 3" (made up number) below the edge of the block make sure your stick is 3" below the top edge of the pan if you are making one like I did, the stick should read correct, you might have to compensate for the slight tilt of the motor front to rear depending where you are putting the stick.

I had to move my stick because the bottom of the pan in the original location is above the oil line (about right on it) moving it back, even though the stick looks like it will be longer it is the same because it is no longer passing through the block, I welded the pipe on top of the pan because the top of the wide section of the pan is below the oil line and (need it or not) I wanted the dipstick to sit in a unrestricted reservoir.

Like I said I went and got my head today from the machine shop, a bit more than I hoped in cost (a bit over $600) but he did a little more than originally planned.
ba82946fcd16e6fbde4249e4ac8e22c8.jpg


What was done is new valves (he supplied the valves) the head is a '72 and he recut the intake seats to fit larger '78 valves, he also installed hardened exhaust seats and valves, new valve guides and freeze plugs (again he supplied those so those are part of the cost)
85c90a1cb553564dfb70323c02f5d65a.jpg


The chambers are 60cc, he had to un-shroud a couple of intake valves (#6 & I think #4). he milled the head but very little (he did not say how much).

He welded in the port divider that divides the siamese ports, he welded it a little different than I imagined but he said he did not know what the possibility of leaks would be along the top unless he welded it solid, of course he milled the exhaust gasket face after he welded and at the same time he drilled out 3 broken exhaust bolts and Heli-coiled them.
ae7e736f9385a3d122e4231da4f0b31f.jpg


The last machine work he did was cut the valve stem guide tops for Viton seals.
2dbcd6a818d552b0989cffecf92b686c.jpg


I had supplied the valve springs from a 302 (exhaust springs, '78?) one piece spring keepers and new stem locks. He installed the valves and CC'ed the chambers as well.

I got it home and mocked it up on the block, mostly for a place to store it until I am ready to do final assembly.
bb0a0660dacc0b166a966343c7d1b7cd.jpg


I need to get it all painted (and repainted) the block and head are going to be satin black.

I also need to finish getting the intake ready to be cast so I can get it on there.

Time to order a cam now, I think I have all the specs I need to contact cam manufactures and see what they recommend for my application and motor.

See Ya,
Mike
 
I sent an email to Schnider Cams today with my engine specs and got a prompt reply, they recommend the 262-70H for my build and intended purposes for the car, that is the one I had picked as well.

I sent an email to Clay Smith as well but have not heard back.

I should soon be ordering a cam soon so I can get this 250 all put together.

See Ya,
Mike
 
I remember U were gunna cast an adapter.
(& the sweet suspension mods)
Did U pick the carbs?
 
chad":161hul84 said:
I remember U were gunna cast an adapter.
(& the sweet suspension mods)
Did U pick the carbs?

I still have plans to cast the intake adapter, that is the main big thing left to be done.

I have the carbs already they Motorcraft 740/5740s off of a Ford Escort, not sure how many years they used them but I early 80's they were on there so I always use 1983 for a date when asked. The 740/5740 is a progressive 2 barrel I am just going to run all three simultaneously.

See Ya,
Mike
 
OK, thank you. A 1.6L ford,
Motorcraft E3EE G1A - '83
..........................E3GE M1A - '83

called Hollet/Weber 740 & 9744

seems like '81 model might B different than '83/5 and the '86 (1.9L)

In '84 it wuz on my mother's baby blue EXP (remember them?). Racy lill notch back escort (in fact it wuz a 2 seater that U could rip up the carpet & put the 2nd row escort seats right in, bolt holes waitin).

So all will B profressive through out the throttle range?

This'll B cool !
 
chad":skyavet1 said:
So all will B profressive through out the throttle range?

Yes just tying all three carbs together so it will run as a 3 barrel/6 barrel using the carbs built-in progressive linkage instead of doing it like the Offenhauser adapters are.

This is the linkage I made, it will most likely need to be modified once I actually put it on the car. Will remove the chokes on the front and rear carbs as well and run either manual chokes on all of them or no chokes at all or just one choke)
33a53fbde64bb89c216ad35e67ca603a.jpg


I haven't figured out how to do the connection to the throttle cable yet but I built the arm on the center carb and it should have the same travel as the pedal. I may use the original cable bracket and make some sort of bell crank to make it change directions but haven't designed that far ahead yet, I will address that in earnest once I get closer to casting the adapter.

See Ya,
Mike
 
"...original cable bracket..."
think of me if U ever decide not to use the "over the valve cover bracket". I
collect all sorta trinkets as I adapt & modify. In my foreclosure I lost my oem
"carb gear". Anything on or in the bronk came w/it to the garage. I am not sure
I'll keep this RBS experiment...
 
That is an awesome carb setup. With LS when you floor it the tires will probably just burst into flames. You may want to install an onboard fire extinguishing system for the rear tires.
 
Back
Top