Turbo 4.9 ranger

Twinturbor

Well-known member
Just started a new project. I pulled the turbo motor from my f150 and I'm putting it in a 98 ranger. I have lots to do still but it should be ready for spring. I'm also going with a front mounted twin setup since I'm out of compressor with my gt35.
 

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Should be alot of fun to drive. Do you have plans on 4wd or 2 with slicks? Auto or manual?
 
Its 2nd. I run drag radials. Its a street strip truck. I usually run 325 60 15's. They hold the tq from this engine well
 
I like how you used the EFI exhaust manifolds as well as the rest of your engine build.
What did you use for a DSS piston connecting rod combination?
Do you mind sharing the Howard cam specs?
Thanks
 
I don't remember the part numbers off hand but the dss pistons are a 351 stroker setup and I'm using stock rods that have the small end bushed to fit the smaller wrist pin. My cam is a .501 lift and I believe its a 268 or 274 duration. Lift and duration are the same on the intake and exhaust.I also have a ported head that has been port matched to the lower intake and the upper has been gutted and converted to a single throttle body. This combo made enough power to twist off the output shaft of my transmission.
 
Thanks
That would be the Howards 280996-10 .501”/.501” 221/221 275/275 110deg camshaft.
You sent me all of that info in PMs but I had to clear out my inbox and lost it all.
A lot of that info may still be in your Sent box.
I'm impressed that the stock rods have not bent.
You did a great job doing the build on a relatively low budget, key word being relatively.

What does the power band look like meaning boost versus rpm?
 
Full boost around 2k and it pulls like a freight train all the way to 6k. I was going to dyno it after I went to the track but my tranny had other plans. Lol. The output shaft twisted so bad before it broke I can't even get it out of the yoke on the driveline
 
Twinturbor":301bropd said:
Full boost around 2k and it pulls like a freight train all the way to 6k.
That's what I was hoping you would find.
There was a fellow member here that was using the stock log exhaust manifold and was hitting a wall around 5000 rpm.
After several changes to larger cams there was only a few hundred rpm gains before hitting the wall.
I explained the downfall of using a log exhaust manifold when trying to make upper rpm power and suggested using the EFI manifolds instead.
The project was ended without upgrading the exhaust system so I appreciate the feedback from your experience.

Hope you get the transmission issue solved and have the opportunity to do a dyno run.
 
I'm building a new set of custom twin turbo headers so my whole hot side will just be sitting in a corner if anyone want to buy it. I'm ordering a prepped c6 and converted so my manual tranny problems will be gone. The new headers should make power up to about 8k if I ever get the rest of the motor there
 
Great project!
Will you have a transbrake to help with the launch at the track?
What are you looking at for connecting rods for the higher rpm and power?
 
No transbreak yet. I need to get some rods made but funds are limited right now with the new chassis build. Any recommendations as far as a good company for those? And maybe an approximate cost?
 
You can use the small journal BBC rods.
Molnar and Compstar make the lowest cost versions of theses rods.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cpi-b6385ds3b4ah/
They have the same big end width as the 300 rod and use the SBC rod bearings so the 300 six crank rod journal gets turned down .023" to 2.100"
They are 6.385" long versus the 300 six 6.21" rod length so they will require custom pistons.

If for some reason you still want a custom connecting rod most of the rod manufacturers will accommodate.
Check with Molnar and Cunningham first.
A single set of rods will be expensive. Last time I talked to Molnar they required 7 sets before a significant price break.
 
Twinturbor":2cbmucqe said:
The new headers should make power up to about 8k if I ever get the rest of the motor there
No 8k
The purpose of turbocharging the 300 six is so you can reach the maximum power the block will hold by 6k rpm.
A 300 six iron head that is ported and has big valves will still not support power much beyond 7K.
The few here that are and have pushed the head are shifting around 7200 to 7300 max and that is with a very big cam that is not street friendly.

Also at least two of those same engines are de-stroked from the stock 3.98" down to 3.50" to 3.75" in order to reduce vibration and crank failure.
Main caps also have a tendency to crack at those high rpm power levels.

A recommended goal for a turbocharged 300 is to achieve peak power by 5500 to 6000 rpm.
A ported big valve head along with a camshaft profile with .050" durations in the 232 degree range will do just that.
It is best to have a wider Lobe Separation Angle at 114 degrees to reduce the valve overlap period and to initiate the blow down portion of the exhaust cycle early when installing the cam with moderate advance.
 
I have no intention on going to 8k. Just trying to make everything as efficient as possible for max power. I'm good with 6k rpm. I need some custom rods and billet main caps so I can get the boost up to where I want it. I would ultimately like 25 to 30psi on meth. Ive been contemplating the la cross flow head but its not in the budget for a few years. Maybe I will go with the cnc ported aluminum and see what I can squeeze out of it.
 
I'm assuming you read post #13 concerning connecting rods.

When you go to a methanol engine will it be drag race only?
 
I will have 2 fuel cells so I can run meth at the track and pump fpr the street. Its easy to switch between maps with my ecu. I found a small block rod that will work but I need to turn my crank down. The rods are an h-beam design and are rated to 750.
 
Twinturbor":1jqbhytx said:
I found a small block rod that will work but I need to turn my crank down. The rods are an h-beam design and are rated to 750.
The small block rods are not as wide as the 300 rod at the large end which gives you extra side play.
You can use spacers at the small end to keep the rod centered on the piston pin or not and just let them move around the extra .050"

You are probably looking at the Eagle LS 6.200" long rods.
SBC rods have an offset beam but I believe the LS rods are centered.

Your current pistons have a .912" pin and most of the 6.200" long rods for the 2.100" journal have the Chevy .927" pin.
Did you find a 6.200" long rod that has a .912" pin or are you just going to re-bush the rods?
 
I belive I can get the pistons I have with a .927 pin as well. I'm still playing with numbers right now. I will have to write everything down and double check what I think I can get away with. I will also be discussing some options with my engine shop.
 
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