t5 swap 66 mustang 200

Can't answer the C67 on your disk except that some of the clutch manufacturers and rebuilders often have their own numbering system. On older Fords if it was a Genuine Ford part the Ford part numbers were stamped into the disk center later on they used a painted number. If the disk is still in its orginal packaging you could I'd it from the Ford part number.

The first year Ford started using the excellent 3.03 trans behind the 200 six in Mustangs and other Ford cars was 1967 that's why your disk won't fit the T5. Well that's excellent since you have an extra input shaft you can use it both for your disk hunt and as a clutch alignement tool too when you start to assemble the parts. (y) :nod:
 
details, details !
We havea 4 Sale forum
 
:rolflmao: you never know I also have a realy nice 1965 Mustang 2.77 trans with shifter, throwout bearing and clutch disk setting in my shop that I don't need too. You could put a add for sale in the sale / trade small six section of the site forums. It's down at bottom of all the forum topics, it's free and just might be of some help to another site member in getting their project car back on the road. (y) :nod:
 
So if I have the 2.77 or the 3.03 transmission can I use the 9-inch flywheel and bellhousing and fork for either transmission,. I assume the adapter plate is not the same.

National Parts Depot has 3 adapter plates one for the 9-inch, and one for the for the 2.77 and another part number for the 200 3sM/T...it might be the same part with different number,..they have a 13A for the 2.77, a 10A for the 9" with 2bolt starter, and 14A for 3sM/T, it does not clarify in the parts book, if I ask them they don't know, most of those guys are Chevy guys, hahaha.

I know I can call mdl, but to call that guy and ask a bunch of questions constantly, and not buy from him direct, its not right, although he probably supplies NPD... oh, I'm sure that he's got better things to do. (Ya I know , like u guys dont have better things to do, Haha)

The reason why I want to buy from NPD because NPD is right here in Charlotte. I can purchase a part and if I don't need it or doesn't fit I can return it. They're really good that way.

So whatever I have? 2.77 or the 3.03 can I use the flywheel, fork and bellhousing, is the adaptor for the 9inch the correct one? I think I have the 3.03. I can send you a pic to private message, but I do not know how to send it or post it here.

My flywheel is for a 9 inch clutch, it is 136 tooth, and the shorter 1967 starter for the will fit. I assume the starter's for 136 tooth? From Autozone, I asked for a 1967 6 cyl 200 starter, and that's what they handed me.. its 2 bolt and fits the holes.

Again, thanks for your help. I tried to read all the post here on the t5 swap. They meanderer and run on about paint color and other things...I have to read and read and read to get what I need and it's very confusing. this is why I'm asking simple, I hope simple questions, and to the point.

I appreciate you taking the time to respond, you are really helpful, thanks!
 
"... I tried to read all the post here on the t5 swap. They meanderer and run on about..."
that's what many of us do often to answ a Q some 1 has. It becomes a group built project that way :shock:
We don't have real solid rules on how we enter info, keeps it a lill chatty (which I like) no strict adherence, no 'tossed off the form', etc. (well, sometimes).
If U wish. when U get dwn da rd a lill w/this mod - It Would B Great if you grouped ur info-learned together. This way the nxt guy duz not hafta go thru what U did to collect info for an identical project. Wish to do so? help the nxt guy? Isn't that called a 'stickie'?
 
Mach1Mark":s9g4xwmz said:
So if I have the 2.77 or the 3.03 transmission can I use the 9-inch flywheel and bellhousing and fork for either transmission,. I assume the adapter plate is not the same.

National Parts Depot has 3 adapter plates one for the 9-inch, and one for the for the 2.77 and another part number for the 200 3sM/T...it might be the same part with different number,..they have a 13A for the 2.77, a 10A for the 9" with 2bolt starter, and 14A for 3sM/T, it does not clarify in the parts book, if I ask them they don't know, most of those guys are Chevy guys, hahaha.

I know I can call mdl, but to call that guy and ask a bunch of questions constantly, and not buy from him direct, its not right, although he probably supplies NPD... oh, I'm sure that he's got better things to do. (Ya I know , like u guys dont have better things to do, Haha)

The reason why I want to buy from NPD because NPD is right here in Charlotte. I can purchase a part and if I don't need it or doesn't fit I can return it. They're really good that way.

So whatever I have? 2.77 or the 3.03 can I use the flywheel, fork and bellhousing, is the adaptor for the 9inch the correct one? I think I have the 3.03. I can send you a pic to private message, but I do not know how to send it or post it here.

My flywheel is for a 9 inch clutch, it is 136 tooth, and the shorter 1967 starter for the will fit. I assume the starter's for 136 tooth? From Autozone, I asked for a 1967 6 cyl 200 starter, and that's what they handed me.. its 2 bolt and fits the holes.

Again, thanks for your help. I tried to read all the post here on the t5 swap. They meanderer and run on about paint color and other things...I have to read and read and read to get what I need and it's very confusing. this is why I'm asking simple, I hope simple questions, and to the point.

I appreciate you taking the time to respond, you are really helpful, thanks!
Click to expand...

The 1966 Ford Mustang was a transitional year were Ford introduced the 9 inch clutch and flat flywheel yet kept some of the earlier parts. I think I answered your questions in my above post #17 I tried reediting it some to try and make more clear, see below for a link to it. If you still need more info let me know or if you want to send me pictures of your parts so I can look at them to see what all parts you have then I will let you know If it will all work togeather and or I could post the pictures for you. Also if you send me the links to the NPD parts I can figure out the adapter that fits your bell housing too. Just click on my posting name above and send me a PM (private message) so I can give you an email address to send the pictures too. Good luck. (y) :nod: Edited to try and make it a little clearer.

Post #17
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=80505#p625703
 
Hi Mach1 Mark, I re- edited my above post & #17 to see if I could make a bit clearer for you and hopefully easier to understand. I also looked up those adapter plates at NPD looks like you could use any one of the # 6392-14A, #6392-13A, plates or if you wanted the compleate kit with crossmember and trans mount then #6392-11A would be the ticket. Let me know if you need anymore help. (y) :nod:
 
Hey thanks, that is a little clearer. I appreciate u putting the time in and helping. To throw another wrench in the fire. I'm thinking a hydraulic clutch throwout bearing. I haven't really looked at any threads yet on that, but it looks pretty simple. I was thinking of using a jeep wrangler reservoir and just need the bearing any suggestions. I'll do a little research
 
go ford, don't the modern all have em?
(see what's ina stang)
ranger B4 gone, the ZF 5 speeds, expo, expi, explo (..all the "e"s...)
they hang em (slave) inside the bell, havea master outside stuck to the peddle
and a 'gland' around the berring (to move it).

I skipped the ZF (truck) due to the hydro clutch, don't want it.
 
Come to think of it,... I did have a 1990 ranger, it had a hydraulic slave throwout bearing. So the ford ranger setup? The master cylinder was small to. I thought the 90s mustangs had cable and a manual throwout bearing,
but my 4cyl ranger was hydraulic. I checked autozone, and yes the 6cyl and 4 cylinder for the ranger has a slave hydraulic throwout bearing, while the mustang has a manual bearing. (According to the autozone website).

I'm going to take my sleeve and go to autozone and test fit it, I'll bet it will fit...odd?... Any thoughts?

Thanks for the response Chad, what is "gland.. around the bearing to move it?" Thanks
 
"...they hang em (slave) inside the bell, havea master outside stuck to the peddle
and a 'gland' around the berring (to move it). ..."
when U step on break peddle (activate MC) the slave sends juice dwn the line so that the lill bearing swells up & disengages.
Can't say it any simpler (may B clearer writing tho. aaahahahaaaa). Gotta B a scientist to decipher my 54!+... 8^0

Moders use the Ranger
 
Mach1Mark":ke8ojk18 said:
Hey thanks, that is a little clearer. I appreciate u putting the time in and helping. To throw another wrench in the fire. I'm thinking a hydraulic clutch throwout bearing. I haven't really looked at any threads yet on that, but it looks pretty simple. I was thinking of using a jeep wrangler reservoir and just need the bearing any suggestions. I'll do a little research
Click to expand...

Going with a Hydrolic clutch is going to add some more cost to your project. The only type that could work without going to a custom made bell housing (Quick Time) is the internal slave.

With that in mine you would

A. Not use the throwout bearing arm

B. And the stock clutch linkage also isn't used.

C. Generally the pressure plates used with these internal slave systems are of the Diafram type so that maybe also need to be changed.

So of your current parts you would now only use these few parts

1. The Tin Block plate

2. The 66 Bellhousing

3. The 9 inch flywheel

4. The two bolt starter.

You might look at Modern Driveline on the Hydrolic clutch parts they have one for the T5 as well as the cable type kits too. Good luck on the swap. (y) :nod:
 
The more I read about the hydraulic slave T/O bearing the more complicated it seems to be. Mustang Steve makes a nice clutch pedal ready to receive the wire . I might go that way. Or stick with the Zbar. Its funny,..I purched a c4 about 10yrs ago , (1972 maverick) I rebuilt it myself, slapped it in, no change to the driveshaft or rear end, and I have been driving and abusing it for this long, and that was less complicated then this t5 swap. Who knew?

Quick question, can I use my c4 tin block plate on the t5 swap? I think I would just have to drill some holes for the starter.

Also, wiill the shifter of the t5 slip right into the stock floor hole. MDL says I have to buy there $300 shift adaptor.
 
also: addition/changes to consol & geta 3rd peddle
 
No on using the C4 block plate. It’s the smaller bell housing block pattern so it won’t fit the larger bell housings used with the larger flat flywheels and a 9 inch clutch. I have seen some that use the stock Ford floor shift three speed handle on their T5 swaps. The MDL shifter kit is nice though as are all their parts.

Yes for sure the C4 is much easier to install, more reasonable in cost, easy to work on like in installing a good shift kit, (rebuilds are reasonable too), is an excellent and is a bullet proof strong transmission with the right pars. It's one of my all time favorites, when using a 1971 up trans as a starting point they then only need the addition of a TranGo shift kit and an auxiliary trans cooler. I also like installing a low gear set in them too this is known as a poor mans overdrive when used with a taller rear axle gear ratio. Good luck. (y) :nod: Edited
 
post #34 wuz the 1st time I saw he wuz swaping a C4 to this T5:
"...I rebuilt it myself, slapped it in, no change to the driveshaft or rear end, and I have been driving and abusing it for this long, and that was less complicated then this t5 swap..."
'S Y I added prts in my post #35
 
I will post on my progress to help the other guy. This process of replacing my C4 with a t5 transmission will take a while.

So I ordered a "dynocorn" replacement brake and clutch pedal from Ebay, It is coming from Kentucky mustang. It was the cheapest clutch and brake pedals I have found. Used pedals are outrageously priced And NPD is expensive also. So hopefully that will work to start the process. I will keep u informed. I wish I could post pics here, but still dont know how.

Anyway, purchased a used 95 t5. I ordered a new shorter input shaft from Ebay. Seem to be nice quality, bearing and shims came with it. I removed the existing input shaft and trans,.. looks real nice on the inside. Cross my fingers and knock on wood. Haha.

Cleaned up the 1966 bellhousing and Im in the process of painting both. Might as well , it has to look good under the car.

I will install the input shaft soon. (Plenty of videos on YouTube). Then go to NPD and purchase the adaptor plate and clutch assembly. I will probably have the old 1966 flywheel resurfaced. If there are any opinions about this, I welcome them.

I did purchase a short nose starter from autozone, (136 teeth for 9inch clutch) I may return that and get a high performance one from NPD or Amazon or Ebay. Again any opinions are welcome.

That's it for right now. Thanks for ur help.
 
Yes depending on condition of your flywheel a light cut is a good idea. I like the newer hi torque starters as they are smaller (especially if you plan or have headers), lighter, and spin the motor faster for quicker start ups. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
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