Smoke From Carb!

"...the oil and it smelled like gas..."
which may B 'wash dwn" where pertol leaques dwn cyl walls into crancase. 1) ck the fule pump gasket as repture=this issue, not good as thins oil - catostrophic engine failure due to -0- viscosity in oil (mights well B H2o). 2)pump itself...

Congrats on Handbook purchase, ck above 'tech archive' for more deep dive into ur barn find !

The test for the nitro floats is to examine the exterior surface for a soft spot this is sometimes hard to determine. I also use my thumb nail and press on the surface, in some cases you will see wet fuel seep from these soft spots. Best way is to check their weight on a scale right away after disassembly (i.e. After being in wet fuel of the float bowl). Or if the car has to be back running again quickly just replace them during the carb rebuild. Good luck

Thanks for the replies, I just went ahead and ordered a float, it didn’t come with the rebuild kit I got. Should have that before the weekend to complete the carb . I decided to try and drop the oil pan to clean it out and check the oil pickup. Is there a way to get it out? I have it loose but it hits the crossmember and maybe I am missing something? Maybe there was a write up somewhere on here with how slide it out?

You can either unbolt engine from its mounts and raise it up enough to get pan out. Or you can un bolt the crossmember (Round tube under engine) so you can drop the pan straight out the bottom. Good luck

After a few hours of removing old bolts and parts. I was able to remove the oil pan. I had to remove the steering linkage, crossmember and front sway bar. I took a few photos of the screen, pan and motor. This thing looks like it has had a rough life with. I think the screen is in ok shape. I know the pump did work before, I have a mechanical gauge hooked up. If there is anything I should do while I have the pan off let me know. I should get the new float in on Friday, and hopefully before the end of the weekend I can have it all back together.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jljA7 ... xyG_oh4akD

I have seen much worse but looks like they didn't change oil very often or were using the old type oils with a high ash content. If you have access in your area to an automotive machine shop with either a hot tank or jet washer you could have the oil pump pick up screen, the oil pan and valve cover cleaned really good. If not then you could soak them in anything that cuts the old sludge, solvent, carb cleaner, gas, diesel, or mineral spirits etc. As far as the inside of the engine try to scrape as much of the heavy sludge out as you can on the top of the head and bottom end then you could wash it out with a solvent. After you have it back togeather you could use an engine flush 3 or 4 times just before you change your oil to try and clean it out some more. Good luck

What Bubba said, plus: Unless you can get either an oil pump pickup screen GASKET or something to make one out of, I'd try cleaning that screen in place with a couple cans of carb or brake cleaner. If you've got or can make a gasket, then I'd remove it and have at it.

Get ready for some oily gunk scraping fun!

Plez wear gloves.
Fella near here just died of brain cancer, I swear it wuz frm hands in the petrocarbons all these yrs, absorbed thru skin, never wore gloves...
:nono:

I found my pictures of where to look for the T or N. This is the 170 out of my van, you can see that is the distributor to the right and the stamp is on top of the boss for the road draft tube. I took some brakleen and a wire brush to see it. It's a T in a circle. I didn't see it when I just cleaned it with a rag. Hope this helps,

So the Float is replaced, scraped gunk from as many spots as I could, the screen is looking better and a shiny oil pan now https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing. I put the pan back on fresh oil and some MMO, carb cleaned and reinstalled with new float. I got it started it ran for about ten minutes, got it to idle up to normal temp then it died and wouldn't start again Not sure why its fighting me so hard but at least the flooding is solved. I had the fuel pressure adjusted down to 2.5 psi to not flood it. All new spark plugs, gapped correctly. Not really sure where to go from here? Another compression test?

Econoline- I have located the N for the 144ci Thanks for the pictures.

Edit: I just repeated the result, was frustrated after looking at it in the driveway tonight. Went out and it started with my foot depressed on the gas pedal, eventually could ease off and it started to idle. Checked the timing it was at 4degrees, ran for another couple minutes and then died and wouldn't restart. I've got to be close! (oil pressure reads at 45-50) is there something i'm totally missing?

(Every time I try to attach a photo it tell me the quota is full?)

sometimes an over heated coil (not usually just frm reachin operating temp tho, as that's all the time its been running) will do that.
Other is vapor lock? Is fuel still flowing at that point?
Didn't others mention (a 3rd, 4th) the choke being fully open, & 'good fuel filter' ?

I don't think its the coil, I was still getting spark when it wouldn't restart. (it was new in the fall, I know it could still fail)
Other is vapor lock? I can see some fuel trickling from the carb once it dies, but stops pretty quickly. and its pretty cold out tonight about 35. And choke being fully open, & 'good fuel filter' ? Choke is wide open and have 2 brand new filters, one pre pump and one post.

bones 92":2f6kh5k5 said:

I don't think its the coil, I was still getting spark when it wouldn't restart. (it was new in the fall, I know it could still fail)
Other is vapor lock? I can see some fuel trickling from the carb once it dies, but stops pretty quickly. and its pretty cold out tonight about 35. And choke being fully open, & 'good fuel filter' ? Choke is wide open and have 2 brand new filters, one pre pump and one post.

Click to expand...

If you can see fuel trickling down the carb throat after it dies than its still flooding from too high a fuel level. Recheck the needle and its seat plus the float level this should measure 5/16 inch.

bones 92":1deba3nh said:

So the Float is replaced


Edit: I just repeated the result, was frustrated after looking at it in the driveway tonight. Went out and it started with my foot depressed on the gas pedal, eventually could ease off and it started to idle. Checked the timing it was at 4degrees, ran for another couple minutes and then died and wouldn't restart. I've got to be close! (oil pressure reads at 45-50) is there something i'm totally missing?

(Every time I try to attach a photo it tell me the quota is full?)

Click to expand...

It sounds like a carburetor problem to me. The bowl is empty and can't keep up eventually at idle even after being filled by cranking with the pedal wide open? I'd say filters b/c it's the same symptoms but you've fixed all of that. The pickup sock is clean, the tank is clean, the filters are new, the fuel pump is new 2x over. Did you get a chance to adjust the timing to 8 or 10*btdc? 4* is pretty low timing. Stock manual timing is 4-6* manual and 10-12* automatic. I think those are minimums. The float hangs level with the needle seated. The needle and seat are new, good and intact. Maybe the idle circuit is fouled up? What happens when you sustain higher rpms or blip the throttle? No vacuum leaks. Shaft is ok. Ignition is good? What is the ignition? Maybe you just need to get some fuel through it. It ran, it'll start again. Seems like a fuel problem, but ignition problems can be a bur in your saddle sometimes. Get you thinking all sorts of things

Lots of info for me to check on still, but I got out there for an hour before work and got the float adjusted to 5/16ths, it’s not level anymore but it seems to have fixed the “trickling” it started up no problem after that, choke closed, let it warm and slowly opened the choke and it was idleing ok, I got the timing adjusted to 8 degrees and it was running almost smooth it eventually died but fired right back up and I checked for vacuum leaks and didn’t find any. I bilpped the throttle and it died on me again. Started right back up with the same result after blipping the throttle. One step closer! Thanks for all the help 8)

back 2 ign. Not a carb problem?
Is not advancing?
I forgot, am not reading the whole thread over - IDed it's not a SCV/LOM mis-match?

Well it was raining today but got out to look for a few minutes, turns out this problem was stupidity; I was out of gas. After filling up, she started and idled a little rough, but would continue to run on throttle but would almost die after letting off but barely continue running. Looks like from here a little more tuning another valve adjustment and we will see how it goes from there!

"rough"
is that frm pickin up the 54!+ at the bottom of the tank?

Tank is brand new, along with the sending unit

Sounds like you're getting there!