Chipped my cylinder bore

I'd say look at the back of that area. If U can have access.
I forgot if I had done some assembly and wuz able to borrow a bore-a-scope, poke it in there, take a lill look. No dissasembly/reassembly, I hadn't forgotten. A big box auto wearhouse store might have 1, make a deposit, bring it back, $ returned...
Its got a lill flex arm (may B optical fiber?) U poke ina lill hole, view ona screen out side the area/on the other end of the lill arm.

I am a bit lost in ur pic. I can ID the cam, a lill more. Ck the block, as others have said, frm the other side of the gouge to gauge it's depth & extent of damage (Hummm - leave it to ford6 - "guage a gouge") um, um, ummm~ :LOL: :roll: :oops:

Gotta have some humor at this "Lub in a Time of C-19" (appoligies to Gab. Garcia Marquez. Where's Ludwig when we need some humor? X?).
 
Gom212, the block looks good to me I think a sleeve will probably fix it. I will post all the pictures when I get home from work this afternoon. (y) :nod:
 
Well it is on the side of the water jacket, it didn't crack the cylinder bore just chipped the bottom of it, but yeah i agree the engine is still salvageable to put a sleeve on it. Tbh i really hate the thought of junkin it no matter what but that's just me lol. i already got another 200 from a friend, I'll will just take my time with my orginal and just rebuild it and hopefully put original back in after it's done.
 
Knowing the tendancy for Cleveland Engine plant blocks to crack, Id say no to sleeving a thinwall block that has had a cast iron rod let go. Wsa111 is right. Its scrap.

The correct approach is to magnaflux it, and find the extent of cracking, then pressure test it with fluroscene mixed with kerosene under 20 psi pressure.

If those are okay, then resleeve with chemset metal weld. In your case, the water jacket has been exposed when the rod or rod bolt let go, so its unable to be repaired, a no brainer.

If you have the engine number, without commiting a felony, you can perform a very specific kind of repair, which you can talk with the Frenchtown Flyer about. Its drill and plug welding, and it works if cost is no object.
 
In my Opin I don't see any evidence of any damage to the water jackets on eigher side of the Block. Only a small piece is broken out on the cam tunnel side of the block. I think a sleeve would fix it or if you have the piece that broke out you could braze it back in if you wanted. The block doesn't look like its structure has been damaged either. if your engine has the cast type Connecting Rods you might want to hunt up a set of the earlier forged 200 rods there much stronger if your planing a performance type rebuild instead of trusting the weaker cast type Rods. For a test you could also reinstall the crankshaft and one of the rods and its piston in that #6 hole turned to bottom of its stroke to see if the ring pack even goes down that far, if not you could maybe even skip putting a sleeve in it too. X2 Yes to Magna fluxing it and a Pressure test is also a good idea. Good luck (y) :nod:

Y9kY3KV.jpg


KXE9bQj.jpg


zSk7adQ.jpg


8h0bvKc.jpg


CWeiNoz.jpg


huYQCuo.jpg


tYIk9rx.jpg
 
Thanks yeah I'm gonna get it tested once i get it all cleaned up and rebuild if it comes out good, thanks guys :thanks: :thanks:
 
Back
Top