Autolite 1100 bogging on throttle blip

S

Soledad

Active member
Howdy all, I could use some help on a bogging issue with this Autolite 1100 carb.

This is for a '66/'67 Falcon with the 200. The car is originally from Arizona but now resides with me in the Denver Colorado area (5200 ft elevation). It is a shell of a car and hasn't run in a long time. The dizzy is mechanical advance (not the LOM) and the 1100 carb does not have the port for the spark control valve.

Here's a list of everything I've done to it so far:

- New copper spark plugs
- New wires
- New cap and rotor
- New coil
- New fuel pump
- New carb fuel filter
(Note: Fuel pump is pulling from a fuel can for the moment until I get the gas tank and fuel lines plumbed.)
- New condenser
- New carb spacer as the other one rusted out completely.
- Rebuilt the carb (I have some doubts as to my abilities here but followed the rebuild directions as best I could)
- New gaskets for carb base and spacer base.
- Set timing to 12* BTDC
- Set idle to 600 rpm for now
- Battery now charges at a nice 14.2v - 14.4v
- Set idle mixture screw with vacuum gauge as best I could. It just won't go any higher than a slightly shaky 14 in.Hg which I'm not sure is low or good for being at 5000' altitude.

The choke is out of adjustment so the car is hard to start. But, once I do get it started and warmed up (choke flap wide open and radiator hot) it will stay running and idles fine although smells incredibly rich (burns the eyes and nose) but doesn't smoke. The original plugs in it were soot black. If I give it a quick blip of the gas pedal it will bog and wants to stall out or die. If I slowly press on the gas pedal to raise the RPM it does just fine although it does have a high RPM miss.

If I look down into the carb I am getting a solid stream of gas when I blip the throttle so I'm not sure why it's trying to stall.

Here's what I think it could be but just not really sure:

- This carb may be jetted for sea level (it was an Arizona car) and doesn't like the high altitude. I don't know what size jet is currently in it.
- I noticed on the accelerator pump arm there is a roll pin in the "Hi" slot currently. Service manual says that if you are above 5000' altitude that roll pin should be in the "Lo" slot. I'm not entirely sure what that means or how it works.
- I have not checked points gap or dwell yet.
- I have not done a compression test yet.

What do you think? Is this just a case of the carb needing to be rejetted and reworked for the higher altitude? Maybe something else I've missed?

Thanks!
 
thanks for sharin ur puzzle w/me. I love'em.

I'd wrk on the ign (all ways 1st) a lill more. Points should B replaced when doing condenser (don't C that in ur write-up). bubs has posted a nice ck-list to follow. Is dizzy's prts free'n smooth sliding? Tube to carb OK? Was vehicle running B4 U replaced all the prts?
Is the fuel system 'clean' end to end (gunk in the fine passages in the carb)?
Float set as advised ('Mike's carbs' is a great uTube resource on rebuild, specs/prts sales)?

Not 1 to advise on hi altitude tunes, sorry (esp the 'pin' U mention) & forget the timing but 12* seems off to me??? I remember
total gets up to 32/36* on these...

Then onto the carb linkage, cable, external prts not bent, operate correctly...
Keep talkin~
 
You're probably going to need to jet down for your elevation. I think the jet's are available from Mike's Carb Parts.
 
Thanks as always for the help chad.

I'll get the points replaced this weekend (I do have a new set sitting around waiting to go in).

Didn't check to see if the dizzy's parts move nice and free. I'll check that this weekend.

Vacuum tube from dizzy to carb is solid but not sure if there are any leaks at the connection points. I'll check those this weekend.

Vehicle was running before but very badly. Wouldn't hold idle, had throttle blip bog, smoked a little and had bad high RPM miss. Then fuel pump diaphragm gave up and car wouldn't start at all.

Cleaned the carb out as best I could with carb cleaner when I rebuilt it. Thinking I might actually take it apart again and deep soak the body in some sort of cleaner to dissolve anything I may have missed.

Yeah, set the float as best I could with the little paper ruler per what was on Mikes website. It's darn hard eyeballin' the float level with that paper ruler.

Timing was set to 12* BTDC at idle but I was so happy it was idling I forgot to disconnect the vacuum advance when setting it. I never checked to see what the full advance was. I'll set the timing again this weekend correctly with the vacuum advance plugged and see what RPM the full advance comes in at.
 
Thanks Econoline. That's what I'm thinking. Did some digging and it looks like the sea level carbs were jetted with a 67 and above 5000' elevation you jet down to a 65.

Something else I just remembered is that I had four check balls in this carb. I just now saw an exploded diagram of a non-spark control carb and it had 3 check balls. I wonder if this carb had been rebuilt before but incorrectly? If you don't have a spark control valve carb do you not use a check ball in the spark control area?
 
no, U use them, a 'weight' too, I believe.
Mike's is the 1 to follow !
 
Howdy Soledad and All:

What transmission? GIven the rear gear ratio I'm guessing a C4 auto. IF that is the case, set the initial advance at 15 degrees BTDC. That is also a high altitude thing. you will find that is the Shop Manual.

Resetting the initial advance without the vacuum should help. To begin with set the carb roll pin as per shop manual. I wouldn't worry about rejetting yet. In general, higher altitude means thinner (less) air so less fuel is needed- but, maybe not.

FYI- If this is an auto trans, the distributor centrifugal advance curve is set for lower elevation also. And, the rear gear is likely a 2.8:1. If you do alot of mountain driving you will not like that.

FYI- since the car has been setting for a long time, a thorough inside cleaning of the oil passages is a necessity- especially the rocker arm shaft, as it carries oil to all the rocker arms.

Enjoy, and keep up posted on your progress.

Adios, David
 
Thanks CZLN6.

Yeah, it's an auto trans. I think it's a C4. The shift indicator has a "green dot" on it under "Drive".

FYI- If this is an auto trans, the distributor centrifugal advance curve is set for lower elevation also. And, the rear gear is likely a 2.8:1. If you do a lot of mountain driving you will not like that.
Click to expand...

Doh! Rear gears are indeed 2.80:1. Would I want the advance to kick in a little earlier being at this higher altitude? Or is that vice versa?

I'm going to be pulling the carb off this weekend and giving it a deeper clean. I'll also adjust that roll pin to the "Lo" slot and then re-measure the accelerator pump.
 
The Blow up diagram of the 1101 in my Chilton shows 3 check balls and the weight. But also shows an scv so take that as you will.

When I got my van it ran horribly. When I rebuilt the carb I found it was missing a check ball and had a check ball in place of the weight( 2 check balls there. This was a Canadian rebuilt Autoline carb that I know the previous owner never opened up. He's friend of mine and not mechanically inclined. I asked him about it to. I made the weight per Mike's carbs instructions and rebuilt the carb and it ran pretty good. Like night and day compared to before.

461YHw.jpg
 
Howdy All:

Econo- Your 1101 was used on 1963 & '64 Ford cars with a 223 six engine. Yes, LoM distributors.

Solodad- On the centrifugal advance first check to see what swing weights you have. In any case the stock advance on these early distributors was very slow. IIWIYS, I wouldn't do any thing until I assessed what I have and what I want, down the road. I'd first assess the condition of the engine with a compression test, both wet and dry. Next would be a complete cleaning and assessment of the engine, inside and out. I'd be on the lookout for deal buster. before I would get too far I's want to know if this engine is worth the time, effort and money to get it to where I want to be. So, what is your plan for this engine/car???? What is your planned use????

FYI- So you know if the carb and distriutor are original to this engine? Since you have a none SCV 1100 in a 1967 Mustang, was it possibly a Calif/Emmission car? The '67 C/E carb was downsized from earlier 1100s- from 185 cfm to 150 cfm. Not good for Western Colorado. Same with the 2.8 rear gear. Also a '67 C/E engine was down on compression compared to prior 200s- 8:1 for '67 compared to 9:1 for the rest of the U.S.- by way of a larger dish in the piston top. All of these issues can be dealt with given enough time, money and knowhow. Sorry to be such a bubble buster but I thought you should know. So, what is your plan? what is your intended use for this car/engine? So, think it over and keep us posted on your plans and progress.

Adios David
 
On those carbs, always make sure the piston for the power valve is free to move up & down with the spring pressure.
 
CZLN6 - For right now all I really want out of this engine/car is for it to putt around town (25 mph - 50 mph max). There's no seats in it, the interior except for the dash has been completely gutted. The trunk won't stay closed and there's no driver side door on it at the moment. And the body paint has been partially stripped. It needs a lot of TLC. And so my first goal was just to get it running to the point where I could drive it around our small town if I wanted and that's about it.

Once I get seats in it, driver door on, the hood on, the trunk lock replaced and and all safety items working then I'll start figuring out exactly where I want to go with it. I'm not a purest so this car will never be a factory condition restore. I love widebody Mustangs and have always thought the widebody look would be pretty cool on this. But for now, I just want to get it road (town) worthy.

I don't know if the carb and engine are original to the car (Falcon). It's a '66 but it has '67 front fenders on it and so that makes me question the engine. The engine doesn't have AC or a smog pump/air pump or anything like that and looks like maybe it never did. I think maybe I should try to figure out how to ID the block to see what year and where it came from. It does have 5 freeze plugs so that's good.

Heck, even the short amount of time I had it running, the heater core blew out and dumped a lot of coolant into the car. So I've got that on the list too. I'll bypass it for now while I wait for the heater core to get here.

wsa111 - Funny you mention that. I do remember playing with it when I had the carb apart and it seemed to move freely maybe 80% of the time. The other 20% it would get hung up and not retract. I gave it a little squirt of carb cleaner and cycled it for a bit but it didn't really make a difference in it hanging up intermittently. When I work on the carb again this weekend I'll give that a lot more attention.
 
Howdy Back Solodad:

THe cylinder head casting code is on top of the intake log just behind the carb. The block casting code is on the passenger side of the block under the exhaust manifold. There is a code on top of the exhaust manifold as well.

The carb may have an ID tag attached to one of the top screws. also look on the carb base for stamped markings. The NON-SCV 1100 were a Cal/Em carb in California on '68 and '69 model year Mustangs and Falcons. Some of these C/Em had Electric chokes as opposed to the earlier hot air chokes.

The distributor has a code stamped on the base.

Knowing what you have will go a long ways toward knowing what to do. Do you have a Shop Manual? Good luck and keep it coming.

Adios, David
 
Thanks for that info!

I went out and took some pics of the codes on the block, exhaust header and intake log.
Here's what I got:

Block: C6DE-6015-B (FoMoCo 7A13)
Intake log: C1DE-6090-A
Exhaust header: C5UE-9430-A

And as for the distributor, I thin there's a 1212 embossed into the side of it or something like that. It's really hard to make out but it's just left of the Motorcraft engraving.

As for the carb, unfortunately there is no metal tag on it and I can't see any numbers anywhere with it installed. I just don't have time today or tomorrow to remove it so I'll have to get the numbers off of it this weekend.

I'm going to hit the interwebs to figure out to decode these part numbers.
 
Your block decodes as a January 13, 1967 200 six, so it maybe orginal to your car check the Vin Number of car plus the door ID / Warrantee sticker.

Need the letter and 2 or 3 numbers combo for the other parts they look like a tag cast into the part, heads and blocks look like a tag with a screw head on each end. But ball park on the head it is a 1961 to 62 casting which could make it from a 144 or 170 engine so it's been changed from the orginal. The exhaust manifold is a 1965 up it might also be original to the car date code will determine that. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
Okay, I grabbed what I believe are the correct codes off the intake log and exhaust manifold this morning before work.

Intake log: 1J28 - It might be a 1J23 but I'm pretty sure it's 1J28.

Exhaust: 7A6, 7AG or 7AC - The last digit is very hard to read due to the rust.

Oddly the VIN on the door and the VIN on the radiator support don't match. Yet it is titled as a 1966.

Door VIN decodes as: 1966 / Kansas City KS / 2-Door Sedan Futura bench seat / 6-200 1-bbl carb / Production # 119052
Radiator support VIN decodes as: 1967 / Kansas City KS / 2-Door Club Coupe bench seat / 6-200 1-bbl carb / Production # 177973

Apparently I need to take the left front fender off to see what the VIN number is on the apron. I really hope it matches what's on the title.

And thanks for the link regarding the carb info. I'm going to be reading through that today. Oh and the carb definitely has the hot air choke.

I bought a Shop Manual (one big book) a while back. It's the "1966 Comet, Falcon, Fairlane and Mustang Shop Manual".
 
"...Shop Manual..."
just curious, by who?
Don't forget our own 'tech archive' above @ the big blue box w/the crossed screwdriver/wrench & 'the
Handbook" which is a treatise on just about what you appear to B planning...It's available from Matt at
vintage inlines dot com (?$20?, 25$?)
 
...Shop Manual..." just curious, by who?
Click to expand...

I bought it off of Amazon. It's brown and orange and inside it says it's a reprint of the Ford Service Publications Shop Manual.

I just ordered the Six Cylinder Performance Handbook from vintage inlines.

I have to say I am a bit bummed about having the older '61 head on this 200. It looks like it's been on there a very long time. I can only assume the person who put it on there didn't know the difference.
 
"...Ford...Shop Manual..."
o0OO, nice.

I only had the co. shop man. once (Kawaski). It wuz expensive. I looked at all the pic'n got to wrk...

Trouble was I got the bike from a repair shop. Guy wuz hot roddin it thru his neighborhood so the lill kids poured
sand in his cranckase, dusted it off & put the cap back. The nxt mornin he didn't get far, took it to the shop'n said "Fix it & B
quick abt it !". When they called him up to report on what they'd found he nxt said "F.U. Keep it !" So I got it in 2 big boxes for the
time they had in. Lill did I know along w/that 1930's BSA gas cap'n other odds'n ends were 2 1/2 moon locating pins for the crank into
the 2 halves of the motor case. "Nick, puuur, purrr, nick purrr, nick." as I 1st ran it. Finally I read and there they were in the verbage :eek:opsie:
- nuttin in the pic. Luckily it was run on 2 saw horses w/a pallet for the bench (didn't hafta pull it outa da frame).

Sending good luck ur way (I was 20 y/o, possably 47 yrs wiser now, but don't bet on it) aaahahahaaaa :oops:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top