My 200 Project

StarDiero75

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Howdy guys,

So after 6 days, it finally runs! It took awhile but she runs! I got the cam broken in and took it for a drive. Prob is that I have no exhaust for it currently so it's running open headers. I have an appointment on monday to get flowmaster 40s put on and 2" pipe installed.

Couple of things, the carb floods when I turn the car off, I'm assuming the seat isn't sealed properly so I'll check that b/c I've adjusted the float downwards several times now and that doesn't fix it.

Next, Bill recommends I run 16-18 degrees of timing. My timing marks on the block only go to 12. Do I do this with a fancy timing light or do I need to extend the timing marks on the cover?

Funny thing, so i got a C9 composite head gasket from Ford. Its a NOS piece. In the handbook it says it should measure .037, mine measured .045. The real kicker was after I tightened it, it wouldn't compress. I pulled the head to measure the crush and it was still .045. I even had my machine shop check it. He ordered me the Fel-pro one from the handbook and that measured to be .051 before installation. As long as it crushes to .05ish thats ok.

Here's a video for you all to see. It did not actually fire up that quickly. It cranked over for a bit b/c the timing was so retarded when I installed it.
https://youtu.be/jgChMVp5rps

Thank you all for your advice and thank you Bill for the DUI.

Thanks Everyone,
Ryan
 
2K, 20 min = break in.
Did I C ur pipes get red hot? Timing
Too advanced?
 
chad":1h67mquf said:
2K, 20 min = break in.
Did I C ur pipes get red hot? Timing
Too advanced?
Base Timing was retarded. I fixed that after the break in. I hope overall timing isn't too advanced.
Yup, i did 2000 for 20 mins. Man i was just about deaf after that haha.
 
the pipes ran cherry red ? How long?
 
From what I've been reading, retarded timing makes the pipes red. The mixture was most definitely rich, i saw black smoke coming out when i reved it after break in. Between rich mixture which will burn in the pipes and retarded timing, that is what tye issue is. I've since reved it and not noticed red pipes.
 
On the timing marks you could measure the diameter of the crankshaft Dampner than calculate the degrees measurement for making a couple of new timing marks at 16 degrees and your total mechanical advance timing say of 35 or 36 degrees (however Bill set it up for you) paint each Mark a different color so you know when using your timing light. Or yes you could also make new marks on the timing cover or a new bolt on pointer, your choice to which you like better. Did you put a new float in the carb or check that it's not to heavy? Sounds decent good luck (y) :nod:
 
bubba22349":2sukux3o said:
On the timing marks you could measure the diameter of the crankshaft Dampner than calculate the degrees measurement for making a couple of new timing marks at 16 degrees and you total mechanical advance timing say of 35 or 36 degrees (however Bill set it up for you) paint each Mark a different color so you know when using your timing light. Or yes you could also make new marks on the timing cover or a new bolt on pointer, your choice to which you like better. Did you put a new float in the carb or check that it's not to heavy? Sounds decent good luck (y) :nod:
Oh i didn't think of that, thats clever. I'll get out there with a protractor. I like the idea of marking it on the balancer. I don't feel like messing with the cover.

I did put a new float in it, its a brass one. I didn't think to measure it. It only floods though once the car is off. I'll check too that the thing that the seat sits in is tightened all the way. I have an extra float and seat in another carb that I know work, if i can't figure it out I'll use those
 
Retarded timing and running rich are a bad combo that makes those pipes run cherry red. I'll bet the chrome finish on those headers is somewhat duller now lol, but what I'm really worried about for you is the condition of the exhaust valves- imagine how hot they were inside there. Once you get things going good I'd run a quick compression or leak down test to make sure you don't have any burned or warped valves. I hope you don't and you have fixed the timing and fuel issues so you can drive it around without the pipes getting red any more.
 
mustang6":2sb126h0 said:
Retarded timing and running rich are a bad combo that makes those pipes run cherry red. I'll bet the chrome finish on those headers is somewhat duller now lol, but what I'm really worried about for you is the condition of the exhaust valves- imagine how hot they were inside there. Once you get things going good I'd run a quick compression or leak down test to make sure you don't have any burned or warped valves. I hope you don't and you have fixed the timing and fuel issues so you can drive it around without the pipes getting red any more.
Ok I'll check today after i get the exhaust put on. i have an appointment at 1. The car atarts up spooky fast and runs pretty smoothly but I'll do a compression test. Hopefully its all ok. It drives with a lot of power so I'm hoping its all good
 
The carb flooding after shutting the engine down sounds like a heat soak problem. The headers will only make it more pronounced. After you shut off the engine, look down the carb to see if you have any dripping fuel. I had the same issue on mine so I: wrapped the headers, installed thick carb gasket, installed insulated spacers between the carb studs and carb (basically a plastic tube that slides over the stud and a plastic washer). Those things solved the heat soak issues.
 
The best way to get rid of the heat soak condition is scrap your mechanical fuel pump which hold pressure on the needle & seat.
The fix is go electric & run 6-7 psi fuel pressure.
When you shut the engine off the fuel pressure goes to '0'
 
So get this, I swapped out the float to an old nitrophyl and it worked fine, no more flooding. Comparing the 2, the brass one had the bowl fill up more to go flat. The nitrophyl one sits much lower and that fixed it perfectly. I did consider an electric pump. I may go to that once summer comes and heat starts to become an issue. What electric pumps are you all using?

By the way, i got the exhaust put on, and man, does it sound mean. 2" with an H pipe and flowmaster 40s. This thing drives like a bat out of hell. It peels the tires without really trying. I'm still fine tuning it but man its fun. I'll post pictures here and a youtube link for the sound when its all done.

I also marked the balancer at 16 and 18 degrees, funny thing, i had already put it at 18 degrees by pure luck. I threw the light on and it was dead nuts on 18. I just used where I was sitting and gauged it roughly
 
"...peels the tires..."
what rear gear?
U now have the T5?
14 inch tire?
(C where I'm goin?)
Some go for a few more MPGs...

Glad U got those exh temps down ! Looked dangerous~
Mentioned "carb work" & timing - what carb is it anyway?
 
chad":2fc96gs1 said:
"...peels the tires..."
what rear gear?
U now have the T5?
14 inch tire?
(C where I'm goin?)
Some go for a few more MPGs...

Glad U got those exh temps down ! Looked dangerous~
Mentioned "carb work" & timing - what carb is it anyway?
Hey man, I'm running a 2.8 rear gear with the T5 and 215 tires (25.9") on 14 rims. I'll be going to 17 inch rims and 225 tires with 3.25 rear gears eventually just takes money.

Its an autolite 2100 1.08. It runs hauls butt man. Amazing throttle response. Couldn't be happier with it.
 
That is the kind of driving impression I enjoy reading about! You did all the right mods with head, cam, carb, exhaust and ignition and work.
Looking forward to hearing more. Congratulations.
 
bmbm40":48b7q485 said:
That is the kind of driving impression I enjoy reading about! You did all the right mods with head, cam, carb, exhaust and ignition and work.
Looking forward to hearing more. Congratulations.
Thanks man! I wanted to build the best 200 I could. I did a bunch of reading and just went for it. I'm working out the bugs right now. I may have to JB weld the EGR block off on b/c the clearance between the top of the hole and the carb mating surface is really thin. Otherwise i don't know how to seal it
 
chad":x2slfkp9 said:
here's one:
http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

another for "change' (to get U back to oem):
https://www.rocky-road.com/calculator.html

&
what I wuz actually lookin 4 for U:
https://www.strangeengineering.net/gear ... alculator/

your T5 hasa final output of .68 or .79 ( ' T5-Z ' is the "WC transmis").
Plug in the figures (tire, tranny, rear gear) and C if U want more power /or/ more MPGs. I like it "in the middle".
I've played with those a lot. I have a 4.03 1st and .81 5th. Currently i have a 2.8 but i want a 3.25. It'll give me a little more and the gears wont be so long
 
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