Budget Rebuild / Rehab

that would not do effect it that. U must hit something at the fire wall or sompin...
As all ways said here "A pic's worth a thou..." Tell us how the pcv system is set up...
ummm,...

Yeah, U deserve a :beer: for the success so far !
(1 way to skirt the issue, complements, make 'em think of something else).
:oops:
 
bones 92":3q1r3rhr said:
Hey guys two night of trouble shooting and plenty of beers later, still can’t ID the problem. I have the scv carb and lom dizzy. I have re-cleaned the carb and vacuum passages. The vacuum canister is new and if I suck on the hose it does advance. (Not sure if there is a better way to test it) I have the correct but old pcv valve and I took it off cleaned it up a little and shook it, and it sounds like a paint can. The scv is also new, I put the old one on and no change. The falcon will only start if I have the pcv valve disconnected. Where to go from here I’m not sure? But either way, I’m posting from the driver seat and still proud of how far it’s come. Any help is much appreciated! :beer:

:unsure: on the carb sounds like you have went through everthing internally quite well. Couple more things for you to check the carb's base gasket to make sure you used the correct gasket? The vacuum passages in the base of the carb need to be able to get their vacuum source from the log manifold at the carb mounting base. This base gasket needs to have holes and or slots in the right places so that it can draw Vacuum from the intake manifold and also connecting direct into those carb passages for the SCV. You can check if all the pasages are open in the carb by removing the SCV and spraying carb cleaner in the hole it should travel all the way to the base of the carb. Last thing check for excessive play on the throdle shaft this is usally on the shafts arm linkage side.

Sounds like like the Distribtor's Vaccum Canster works. Yes sucking on the vacuum hose or line works fine. then put your tongue over the end of the hose and see if it holds vaccum and point plate stays advanced. How easy dose the Distribtor's point plate move and return after the vaccum is released? How is the condistion of the Distribtor, is it also clean inside? With the Distribtor cap off when you push the rotor towards the engine block and then pull back towards you do you feel any looseness in the upper shaft? Another test witch can show the condistion of these point type distribtor's by using a Tach / Dwell meter set on the Dwell scale and noteing if the dwell drops off rapidly as you start to rev the engine above idle RPM.

From your description it sounds like the PCV could be malfunctioning there could still be some crud inside so that the ball dosen't seat properly. If you have some carb or parts cleaner let it soak in that for awhile. How is the PCV hose, is it the right type of reinforced hose so it doesn't collapse? Dose the hose have clamps on each of the ends? That's about everthing I can think of right now let us know what else you find, good luck (y) :nod:

Edited after watching your video I think the PCV is probally working fine, see the below post on how to check it.
 
Hi bones 92, i just now watched your video when it's running is the PCV installed in the engine? I noticed you pulling the vacuum line off at the carb's base and rasng the engine RPM you wouldn't want to disconnect it there as it causes a giant vacuum leak. Hard to tell the details of how this PVC is actually connected to the engine though it looks to be the stock system. On some of these early systems the PCV could be disassembled for cleaning. To test out the PCV take the valve out down at the engine conection leaving the vacuum line hooked up at the carb base then hold your finger over the end of the PCV then release it (try this severial times) you should hear the ball move and bottom out and bouch back and forth. If it does that then it's in good working condition. :wow: :beer: great job that engine looks so much cleaner now and it's sounds like it's ideling pertty good not bad for your budget rebuild. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
"...you pulling the vacuum line off at the carb's base and killing the engine, you wouldn't want to disconnect it ..."
yeah, that's the diz ur disconnecting not PCV. May B I'm not understanding. If I am plez read the Handbook. It
will describe this "feedback" system (LOM/SCV). These systems R more complicated that the initiate thinks.

Rattling the pvc is not a guarantee. It is a 1st line check. They're so cheep U can try another. (Matched to Y/M/M).

Let us know how U connect ur pcv system when U get there. I think U have a road draft tube which is the 1st pollution control device. If so U don't use both (usually).
 
Rewatched your video this morning this video is very helpful. Looks like the engine has good vaccum now too. What is your idle RPM set at? This should be 550 to 600 RPM. Looks like the accelerator pump could use some adjusting too. It should be set to the number 2 hole on the accerator pump arm (the upper hole). With the engine off and looking down the carb throat do you see a nice shot of fuel as you open the throdle? If so then you might still need to adjust the timing of this shot to either come in slower or faster to keep it from bogging. So if you have it already set on the number 2 hole (is richer) try the number 1 (is leaner) or vice versa after that the conecting Rod might need to be bent some to further adjust the shot lenght of its timing up or down go slow until you find what the engine likes.

Many people have lots of trouble with understanding how the LOM Distribitors work and how the SCV controls its operation (see the below link for some info on this). This system simply doesn't work like the common vacuum advance systems used on most other engines. Because it uses the combined sources of the engines Manifold Vacuum and also Venturi Vacuum and it is also load senescing. It's possable that there isn't anything wrong with your carb or Distribtor as the advance isn't going to work until your actually driving the Falcon on the road and when the engine under a load. So after you get that carb bogg accelerator pump problem sorted out why not try driving it and see how it does. Best of luck (y) :nod:

The LOM Advance System
ci/Loadomatic.html
 
Offhand, with the pcv inlet hose off, your idle went up - meaning it liked the additional air. So your idle is either too rich, or something squirrelly is going on with the pcv...

Looking at the video, and trying to remember how my '62 used to be set up...

IIRC the pcv valve is screwed into the plate below the carb, right? So in your video, you're pulling the hose basically out of the pcv valve and letting it have all the air it wants?

If so, then...
* these early pcv systems used the old road-draft-tube fitting into the block, and just routed it to a pcv located under the carb.
* the original push-on filler caps are supposed to filter air being drawn into the engine (most have lost their filter media by now)
* these pcv systems don't develop much actual vacuum in the crankcase, mostly just a ventilation system.
so...
* pulling the hose off the inlet side of the pcv valve *shouldn't* have a dramatic effect on the engine, as there's not much difference between crankcase pressure and atmospheric. (now, pulling the pcv valve out of the circuit will mean a huge vacuum leak)

But:
* with the pcv inlet hose off, your idle went up - meaning it liked the additional air.
So:
* check the pcv hose going to the block, it should flow freely if you blow into it. I'm betting it's plugged with goo.
 
Thanks for all the advise. I’ll be out in the garage again tonight. It does have a nice squirt of fuel when I hit the accelerator. I can’t remember which hole I put it in. I can’t seem to get it to idle around 600 it dies at anything below 800. Which is where I have it and the timing at 8 degrees before tdc and the dwell at 36-37 it’s tough to see the little marks haha. But I’ll check all of these things tonight as well as recheck for leaks anywhere. Thanks again and I’ll post back up tonight!
 
You can also try out more base timing like 10 to 14 degrees might help it run better to. Ah yes :shock: said the blind man, "Jamyers" is correct I can now see that the PCV is screwed into the intake manifolds fitting at the base of the carb. :nod: (y)
 
One thing to note, econoline mentioned this to me on my thread, a PCV will accentuate a vacuum leak. If you already have one, that makes it worse. On my car I had something similar to where when the PCV is hooked up, then the car idles rough. I finally found my vacuum leak and I'll be fixing that today. Try spraying starter fluid all around the intake and carb and see how the idle changes. If it does, you're leaking.

Good luck,
Ryan
 
Well I’ve tried a few things tonight tightened the throttle linkage it was a little loose. Changed the accelerator pump lever to the leaner position 1. Adjusted timing to 10. Cleaned the pcv tube as well as the part that comes out of the block (where a draft tube would be). Looked and sprayed around looking for leaks didn’t see one although I think there is one near the scv on the carb. I checked for vacuum at the dizzy vacuum dashpot and it read 0. I hooked it back up and pulled the scv and there was no change in bogging issue with it removed. I sprayed through the passages and still no luck. I can feel the vacuum on my finger with the scv removed and engine idleing as it was before. Either the vacuum line to the dizzy has a leak or the new scv bad went bad? Does this add up?
Edit: just found a crack in the scv https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lYCTvY ... p=drivesdk
I tied the old scv and no luck there either
 
It wouldn't hurt to cut the ends of the line off and install the new compression nuts or convert them to hose ftm with new fittings. Do you have a mighty vac or any vacuum tester? According to a member on my van forum the threads are 3/8-24, he says they're close enough to recut with an 1/8" pipe tap
The correct oem style tube nuts are Tectran part# 461-3

20180710.jpg


https://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t56677-vacuum-line-connections?highlight=vacuum+fitting
 
Looks like you are over tightening that SCV should be finger tight plus just snug a little more like a 1/16 or 1/8 turn tighter. Was there a gasket installed between the SCV and carb hole to seal it? If not it does need one. At lower idle RPM 550 to 600 there will be no or very slight Vacuum at the vaccum advance line port. Yes there is some at the SCV when it's removed this is Venturi Vacuum. With the engine ideling watch the accelerator pump shot as you start to open the throdle dose it start shooting a stream right away or lag some? Good luck (y) :nod:
 
Alright all, new scv and pcv valve are ordered. I soaked the pcv valve tonight and it made a huge difference. Then would slowly get worse. I cleaned again and same result. When the new one comes that should solve the problem and on the road it goes!
:beer:
 
Hi Bones92, when you cleaned the PCV line going down to the block were you able to reach back into the block cavity and really dig into and clean it out good, with wire coat hanger or a rifle bore brush? As much sluge as there was in that engine there might be a bunch sludge right behind where the line goes into the front corner of block then the vacuum of the PCV pulls that sludge back into the PCV clogging it up again. It looks like your old PCV maybe one that can be taken apart to clean it. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
Took the pcv apart and cleaned it up, it seems pretty clean. Replaced the vacuum fittings, cleaned the block side by the pcv. No change with any of that. The fuel has no delay when hitting the throttle but the pump is already in the lean position. Could/should it be delayed further?
 
do U havea road draft tube?
One of the earliest jobs in rest0, mod, maintenance is "ID whatja got" (C my earlier post).
I never saw a strip at the bottom (like mine) or remember an identification of ur rig (beyond '144').
I C alota threads so yours might not B in my mind right now. For fun'n giggles I checked out:

https://www.summitracing.com/search/yea ... eyword=PCV

to see what's listed for ur rig. It lists a 170 only (144ci - 1960 - '64 I believe) so pretty far from definitive, but also not my rig.
I'm thinkin ur vehicle may not have been designed for a pcv system (yr, Cali v USA, etc). Not knowing/remembering which it is...I ponder...or as brother Rich sez:"my mind is aglow...."
 
bones 92":2te04pj1 said:
Took the pcv apart and cleaned it up, it seems pretty clean. Replaced the vacuum fittings, cleaned the block side by the pcv. No change with any of that. The fuel has no delay when hitting the throttle but the pump is already in the lean position. Could/should it be delayed further?

Hard to say without seeing and hearing it but yes it might. You need to determine it if it's too lean or too rich. Try disconnecting the accelerator pump linkage and try opening up the throdle to see if it still Boggs and stalls. Also With the engine idleing try moving the acceler pump manually (still diconected) dose that make it stall or dose it start to rev up some? Good luck (y) :nod:
 
With accelerator pump disconnected it will rev up a little. Pulling on the pump didn’t make it stall, just decreased rpm and holding the pump down and trying to give throttle makes it bog bad. Blowing some black smoke now.
 
bones 92":vy3eaym2 said:
With accelerator pump disconnected it will rev up a little. Pulling on the pump didn’t make it stall, just decreased rpm and holding the pump down and trying to give throttle makes it bog bad. Blowing some black smoke now.

Are you sure there aren't any vaccum leaks now? Ok then you might try bending the accelerator pump linkage so that it shortens the stroke length some to lean it more. You could also try this test of plugging off the PCV vacuum port on the intake manifold completely leaving the other line going to the block open. Also remember that you may need to reset the idle mixture screw and the curb idle RPM (as in the tune up specs) with each change that you make. Good luck (y) :nod: Edited
 
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