My Budget 250 build

pmuller9":1m4boqan said:
Larger cams with increased valve overlap require more initial timing.
You may find that the engine wants more than 12 degrees initial.
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I ended up somewhere above the top mark on the pointer, going to guess 14 to 16, and got it to idle descent at 750 RPM, after adjusting the valves twice I finally decided the ticking at the front of the motor is the PVC valve.

Also if I plug the PVC line the engine appears to run worse than when it is hooked up to the valve, is the carb designed to operate properly with what is, in essence, a giant vacuum leak you think? That may not even be the proper place for the PVC valve to hook up, I thought I checked that and it was however.

As soon as my slow internet finishes uploading the video I will link to it and you guys can hear it idling and see if you think it is ok.

See Ya,
Mike
 
HI Mike sounds like your droping a cylinder to me. I didn't notice that you had a vacuum gauge on your dash if you do what dose its readings look like? The engine seems to also have a very slight shaking at idle too. Another way you could test this is to loosen up the plug wires and use a spark plug wire pliers (insulated) to pull one wire at a time with the engine idling this should cause a noticeable drop in RPM's on each cylinder if you find one that doesn't change any or very much that will be the cylinder to check. My guess is you might have one valve or more that are set a little to tight on your valve adjustment and the PCV bounceing open and closing kind of confirms this. Looking good with the grille and headlite trim fitted, I sure like that emblem on the grille too. Best of luck (y) :nod:
 
bubba22349":3cajdiiy said:
HI Mike sounds like your droping a cylinder to me. I didn't notice that you had a vacuum gauge on your dash if you do what dose its readings look like? The engine seems to also have a very slight shaking at idle too. Another way you could test this is to loosen up the plug wires and use a spark plug wire pliers (insulated) to pull one wire at a time with the engine idling this should cause a noticeable drop in RPM's on each cylinder if you find one that doesn't change any or very much that will be the cylinder to check. My guess is you might have one valve or more that are set a little to tight on your valve adjustment and the PCV bounceing open and closing kind of confirms this. Looking good with the grille and headlite trim fitted, I sure like that emblem on the grille too. Best of luck (y) :nod:
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Thanks I will check I am going to suspect #6 (The header pipe has never discolred on it like the others). I don't have a vacuum gauge seems like I inherited one but will have to dig through some boxes.

Yes, I could hear the little miss at the tailpipes.

How hard is it to adjust the valves on the little six while it is running? I wasn't sure with the adjuster moving if it could be done too easy, if I undeerstand the process correctly you loosen each adjuster until it taps and then tighten until it stops plus 1/4 to 1 full turn (which I assume could be done with the engine off). Part of the issue was getting it back to idle on its own, which it is now, so if I can adjust the valves running I don't have other things to worry about.

I am sure I will get it all worked out, might be good to get one of those spark testers now and make sure fire is arriving to each plug.

See Ya,
Mike
 
Yes It's much harder to adjust these six's while the engine is running since the adjuster is right over the push Rod like on the Y Block V8's so there's lots of adjuster movement but it's possible if the idle RPM is low enough. My preference is to always adjust valve lash while the engine is running even if it's a bit messy. Seems like lots of people have trouble with getting the rockers set to tight because it's difficult not over tightening the rocker adjusters while trying to feel for that very slight push Rod drag that's the zero lash point for a Hydrolic lifter. Your right once you find the zero lash point it's I/4 to 1 turn tighter. Best of luck Mike. (y) :nod:
 
I have a 250 i decked the block 50 thousands and the block 80 thousands i also put yellar roller rockers from classic inlines.
 
Econoline":3l75j6oc said:
iirc the top mark is 14 Mike. Congrats on getting her on the road!
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Not quite on the road yet but getting closer, I drove down to the highway today again but not enough courage to rip her up the road yet :oops:

bubba22349":3l75j6oc said:
Seems like lots of people have trouble with getting the rockers set to tight because it's difficult not over tightening the rocker adjusters while trying to feel for that very slight push Rod drag that's the zero lash point for a Hydrolic lifter.
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I am one of those people :oops: :roll: :LOL: I adjusted them this morning while running, I really had to screw the adjusters out a long way to get them to start to tap, I then retightened until the tap stopped, did all of them that way and then shut the engine off and added a full turn to all of them.

I really appreciate the advice and help on this.

I made a follow-up video with how it is running today after all the adjustments.

250 Idle After Valve Re-adjustment

Now to get rid of that terrible rubbing in the exhaust :devilish:

See Ya,
Mike
 
rather than clearancing the bell housing could you make a bracket that bolts to one or two of the bellhousing bolts and attaches to the exhaust pipe.
 
:beer: Comgrats Mike great job getting the rocker arm lash set, that's really a good smooth idle now plus it's sure hitting on all six cylinders and It's so much quieter too! Little by little it's coming right along, yes I can hear now how the exhaust is rubbing :banghead: and one of the next things to fix. Once that's taken care of it's going to be hard to tell its even running at idle RPM's. (y) :nod:
 
pmuller9":3it5kkyu said:
rather than clearancing the bell housing could you make a bracket that bolts to one or two of the bellhousing bolts and attaches to the exhaust pipe.
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sae as my suggestion on his vid:
"...either attach it or space them - U got 1/2'n 1/2 right now..."
 
Soldmy66":2ekxokyl said:
Mike,

You continue to make great progress. I look forward to your updates.

Beau
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Thanks Beau, I may get her done yet :p

bubba22349":2ekxokyl said:
:beer: Comgrats Mike great job getting the rocker arm lash set, that's really a good smooth idle now plus it's sure hitting on all six cylinders and It's so much quieter too! Little by little it's coming right along, yes I can hear now how the exhaust is rubbing :banghead: and one of the next things to fix. Once that's taken care of it's going to be hard to tell its even running at idle RPM's. (y) :nod:
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Thanks, Bubba again for the advice on setting the valves running, I watched a lot of videos but nobody was adjusting ones like these, it turned out not too hard or messy, I kept the idle low and my wife was tossing out some old bedsheets so I covered all the edges with rolled-up sheets and pillowcases, but ended up only spitting a few drops out when I blipped the throttle once, I guess my advice to anyone doing it is; "Keep both hands on the ratchet at all times!" :p

chad":2ekxokyl said:
sae as my suggestion on his vid:
"...either attach it or space them - U got 1/2'n 1/2 right now..."
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Yes, Chad that makes at least three people that have recommended bolting them to the bell housing, one was before I installed the pipes because he had a concern with the spacers sticking out there so far under the headers that a little additional support might be warranted, I might even be able to incorporate a heat shield into all of it for the starter.

See Ya,
Mike
 
lavron":3grklfgt said:
chad":3grklfgt said:
sae as my suggestion on his vid:
"...either attach it or space them - U got 1/2'n 1/2 right now..."
Click to expand...

Yes, Chad that makes at least three people that have recommended bolting them to the bell housing, one was before I installed the pipes because he had a concern with the spacers sticking out there so far under the headers that a little additional support might be warranted, I might even be able to incorporate a heat shield into all of it for the starter.

See Ya,
Mike
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On choices is it 'the more the merrier'? or when they all R unfortunate its just a hassle? Anyway
good luck, it's comin along fine, jealous here, thank for offering the shotgun seat, been a great ride ~
 
Was out yesterday trying to repair the exhaust issue, I started the Comet up and had it idling as I walked around the car to see if I was gaining anything and the car shut off like the key had been turned off, I suspected the "Flux Capacitor" (aka the HEI module) did a few tests this morning power to everything but no spark out the coil, took the module off and took it to the parts store and had it tested, it was bad, they just exchanged it for a new one, came home and popped it in and the car started right up.

I have a question, or two, for anyone that might know, are the aftermarket ICMs like MSD, Accel, or even Summit any better than the stock replacement (I have Standard Motor one right now)? I would consider getting a different one and keeping this one for a spare (and maybe a few more :roll: ) but did not know what made the aftermarket ones better besides a sticker on them and if they were worth the cost upgrade? FYI in case anyone doesn't remember, I am using a stock '88 S-10 coil for a 2.5L engine.

The other question I have is about my plug wires they are 7mm wires (the coil wire is 8mm) should I consider larger wires?

Going back out now to try and get that exhaust issue resolved now that the car is running again.

See Ya,
Mike
 
Yes get the larger plug wires. Make sure they are spiral wound.
Make sure you have the correct grease for your module to heat sink.
Do you have a heat sink??
 
I only had one HEI module fail but it convinced me to set up a usable spare. I've simply stacked the HEI modules or mounted one on opposite side with the operating module Conductive Greased to the heat-sink.

.


BTW:

Currently been playing with the new Programmable Rev-Limiter 4 Pin HEI version that PervTronix offers mated to Ford TFI coil. Interested in any other users' comments.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-d72000

.

have fun
 
glad U mentioned the coil powerband.
I don't know a watt from an ohm...
'go fast for less' taught me everything I know
(holds thumb'n 4 finger apart the thickness of a dime)
:nod:
:nono:
 
wsa111":26hihp4b said:
Make sure you have the correct grease for your module to heat sink.
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I used the grease supplied with the module.

wsa111":26hihp4b said:
Do you have a heat sink??
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It is mounted to a large aluminum plate, I figured it would run cooler on that than they do in the HEI distributor. (it is all under the dash)

6eedf9fcc6a8664ecab381cee4cb0ce3.jpg


powerband":26hihp4b said:
Currently been playing with the new Programmable Rev-Limiter 4 Pin HEI version that PervTronix offers
Click to expand...

I wondered why that one was more expensive on the website, not sure the rev limiter would be something I need, I would guess it would protect from over-revving the motor, but then not sure what circumstances that might happen, I am just street driving my car.

wsa111":26hihp4b said:
Yes get the larger plug wires. Make sure they are spiral wound.
Click to expand...

Will do, I guess I just got stock replacement wires the first time around.

lavron":26hihp4b said:
Going back out now to try and get that exhaust issue resolved now that the car is running again.
Click to expand...

I made a bracket that bolts to the two lower bell housing bolts and put a strap clamp around the pipe and attached the other end of the bracket to it. It seems to have eliminated the issue at least parked in the shed running, I didn't have time to take it out and drive it around the yard to see if it would flex enough to cause it to rub again.

Unless you guys convince me to get the module with the rev limiter I may go ahead and get the D.U.I. module, it has the best reviews on Summit Racing. Davis Unified Ignition 4-Pin Module

Thanks for the advice guys.

See Ya,
Mike
 
The HEI including the DUI are not ideal for the Ford six that spends most of it's time operating at low rpm.
At low rpm and with only six cylinders the dwell time is very long and HEI module spends the majority of it's time in current regulation mode and the coil spends a long time in saturation.
The wasted energy during this period has to be dissipated in the form of heat so both the module and the coil run hot decreasing spark energy and shortening both module and coil life.

At high rpm and/or 8 cylinders the dwell time is short enough to keep the module out of current regulation and the coil out of saturation which is what the HEI was designed for.

A Capacitive discharge system like the MSD does not involve charging a coil to saturation so the current to the coil is not restricted and the spark current is many times more than the conventional inductive discharge system.
Capacitive discharge is better suited for low rpm work especially since MSD provides multiple sparks for most of the operation rpm range of the Ford six.
 
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