Rocker Arm Shaft Oiling hints

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Hot 6t Falcon
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Rocker Arm Shaft Oiling hints

Post #1 by Hot 6t Falcon » Tue Nov 08, 2005 8:13 pm

Last edited by Hot 6t Falcon on Tue Aug 22, 2006 9:13 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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simon
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Post #2 by simon » Wed Nov 09, 2005 6:36 am

I thought I´d chime in with some pics of mine to back Dennis´ advice.

here you can see how far I have widened, rounded and smoothed the existing transition in the head. The corrsponding groove on the block has also been modified accordingly.

Image

rather than scrounging half the old continent for the shanked head bolt, I stuck with ARP 289-302 main bolts and widened the bolt hole rather than grinding a flat side. double check with a head gasket as a template so you don´t go to far and break into the sealing surface.

Image

It only needs to be opened up as far to reach the small transition that leads into the rearmost shaft pedestal.

Image


the rearmost rocker arm pedestal can stand some attention as well. already a tight fit with the original shanked bolt, oil flow would have been seriously restricted with ARP fasteners. In any case, oil flow will benefit from a nice, widening cleanup of the bolt hole using the dremel.
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Post #3 by Guest » Sat Jan 21, 2006 9:44 pm

My two cents' worth: over the years, I've discovered the "plugged oil hole" syndrome is much worse on engines using Pennzoil and Quaker State oils, if the car is run with 160 or 180 thermostats and driven short distances frequently. The paraffin that Pennsylvania crude oil contains turns into a greasy wax that builds up everywhere, sometimes blocking passages.

If you always drive until the engine is fully warmed up (say, 15 miles or more in city traffic one-way), the problem is less pronounced. If you live where it is cold a lot, this makes it worse, too. I have removed as much as 3/4" of this "wax" from timing covers many times.

Valvoline, Castrol, Havoline and synthetics don't do this.

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Post #4 by wallaka » Sun Jan 22, 2006 6:13 am

MarkP wrote:My two cents' worth: over the years, I've discovered the "plugged oil hole" syndrome is much worse on engines using Pennzoil and Quaker State oils, if the car is run with 160 or 180 thermostats and driven short distances frequently. The paraffin that Pennsylvania crude oil contains turns into a greasy wax that builds up everywhere, sometimes blocking passages.

If you always drive until the engine is fully warmed up (say, 15 miles or more in city traffic one-way), the problem is less pronounced. If you live where it is cold a lot, this makes it worse, too. I have removed as much as 3/4" of this "wax" from timing covers many times.

Valvoline, Castrol, Havoline and synthetics don't do this.


I don't believe this to be an issue anymore. I believe that all American oil comes from Saudi now, so there's not much difference between brands.
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Post #5 by pedal2themetal45 » Mon Feb 13, 2006 2:39 pm

Here's a link to the topic of pedistal removal from the shaft If'en you are having probs getting them off.
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30194

tim
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Post #6 by Dan_66 » Mon Feb 13, 2006 10:18 pm

According to (from 2004)

http://www.eia.doe.gov/neic/brochure/gas04/gasoline.htm

less than 20% of US oil comes from the Persian Gulf. Other pages state that the 20% is mostly Saudi. But our biggest importing country is Canada, according to (from 2001)

http://www.eere.energy.gov/vehiclesandf ... w192.shtml

-Dan in Jensen Beach, FL

J'ville

Post #7 by J'ville » Fri Feb 24, 2006 6:41 pm

Great info Hot 6T Falcon.
After the oil passages are open, may I suggest going with Amsoil synthetic or Mobil One synthetic oil. Amsoil has a very high additive total base number (12.2) and will actually clean your engine. I would recommend flushing your motor first - then change oil with a cheap filter.
Change the filter after 500 miles to a good one. Amsoil, K&N, and Mobile One all make excellent filters designed for synthetic oil. Unless you already have a leaking engine, these oils will not create seal leakage like they did years ago. If you prefer a conventional oil, I would recommend Castrol GTX but change evry 3000 miles. The synthetics recommended are good for a year with a 6 month filter change. Here is a link to an oil comparison test.

http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests/g1971/index.aspx

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