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Street 300 L6 Motor

Moderator: Mod Squad

sandboxer
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #251 by sandboxer » Thu Jan 31, 2019 12:05 pm

They are stud mount and sold out. 5 left and 43$ per to make up the remaining 8. Oh well...

old28racer
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #252 by old28racer » Thu Jan 31, 2019 7:01 pm

sandboxer -- I think the Elgin Black Ice 410888 set ate for BBF pedestal mount and not 7/16 stud mount, Have you used a set of these? Is there a different part number for a BBF 1.6 ratio 7/16 stud Elgin rocker?
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

old28racer
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #253 by old28racer » Thu Jan 31, 2019 10:40 pm

pmuller9 -- Got my Crane hydraulic lifters today and they 1.995" long and .300 from top edge to the bottom of the pushrod cup. Hope to get some 1.6 or 1.7 rockers to replace the 1.80 BBC special race rockers I was trying to make work. Really would like to run 1.6 ratio so I can use the new set of Comp Cam 903 springs I have already purchased.
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sandboxer
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #254 by sandboxer » Thu Jan 31, 2019 11:28 pm

old28racer wrote:sandboxer -- I think the Elgin Black Ice 410888 set ate for BBF pedestal mount and not 7/16 stud mount, Have you used a set of these? Is there a different part number for a BBF 1.6 ratio 7/16 stud Elgin rocker?


Whoops...
I was blindly replying without quoting. I spoke with Crower today, and their 15$ rockers were all but gone. They sold a few thousand in 4 days...

I will look into the Elgin.
Thanks!

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #255 by old28racer » Fri Feb 01, 2019 2:20 pm

sandboxer -- Ya that what I thought might happen, that was a great deal for BBC 1.55 & 1.6 Crower roller rockers. If you find anything on Stamp Steel Rockers that are for BBC or BBF 1.6 ratio and 7/16 stud mount please let me know. I already have 7/16 screw in studs in my 240 head.
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old28racer
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #256 by old28racer » Thu Feb 07, 2019 4:50 pm

pmuller9 & others --- I have a question on BBC & BBF roller rockers that I may use on my 300 motor build. In looking at some different rockers some are listed as self aligning & some are not. I am running a 240 head with no guide plates just the OEM push rod slot.

I really don't understand the difference between SA & NSA rockers. :bang:
Can I use self aligning rockers or do I need to stay with "none self aligning?"
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

pmuller9
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #257 by pmuller9 » Thu Feb 07, 2019 4:57 pm

The only self aligning rockers that I know of is SBC.
Anyway since the 240 head has the pushrod guide slots you cannot use a rocker that cannot spin on the rocker stud.

Please post the rockers that you are looking at.

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #258 by Max_Effort » Thu Feb 07, 2019 5:25 pm

old28racer wrote:pmuller9 & others --- I have a question on BBC & BBF roller rockers that I may use on my 300 motor build. In looking at some different rockers some are listed as self aligning & some are not. I am running a 240 head with no guide plates just the OEM push rod slot.

I really don't understand the difference between SA & NSA rockers. :bang:
Can I use self aligning rockers or do I need to stay with "none self aligning?"


In reference to stud type rocker arms, self aligning rockers have little "flanges" or "rails " that engage the side of the valve stem and keep the rocker over the stem. Recently FTF or someone shared a link to a photo of an early cast 240 rocker... it looked to be self aligning.

Shaft rocker systems are aligned by the shaft, spacers and or springs. Pedestal rockers are aligned by their shaft fulcrum.

Conventional "non self aligning" ball and stud rockers are aligned by the pushrod, either with guideplates or pushrod slots in a cast iron head.

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #259 by old28racer » Thu Feb 07, 2019 8:45 pm

Max_Effort -- Thanks for the reply on the self aligning rockers. My 240 head has been converted from pressed in 3/8 studs to 7/16 BBC screw in studs. I will be running chrome moly heat treated push rods with the OEM head slots as the guide. From what I have gathered you should not run guide plates with sloted 240 heads so It's my feeling you should not run self aligning rockers also and just let the head push rod slot do all the aligning. Am I correct?
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #260 by pmuller9 » Thu Feb 07, 2019 9:21 pm

Yes That is correct.
The lifters are on a 2.0" center while the valves and rocker studs are on a 1.9" center so the pushrods come through the head slots at an angle.
As the pushrods go up and down they also rotate the rockers from side to side on the valve stem tips.

It is interesting because the early cylinder head drawings show the valves and the rocker studs on a 2.0" centers

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #261 by old28racer » Thu Feb 07, 2019 11:44 pm

pmuller9 -- Thanks Paul, I can see how the small angle would move the rocker from side to side but I can not see how a 2" x 2" setup would do anything and would for sure need to have guide plates installed.

As a side note I spent a couple of hours re-measuring my race aluminum roller rockers for ratio number. I have 14 that are for sure normal BBC 1.7 ratio. 4 other are BBC 1,8 ratio. One of the rockers I was using to test my spring & pushrod length was 1.8 and other was 1.7. I am sure this had a lot to do with my valve open lift numbers being off from my cam card.

As you have let me know before 1.6 ratio rockers would be the ideal ratio & I think I will go with the Elgin SSR-888RS BBF 1.6 stainless units. But before I do this I want to reset my BBC 1.7 rockers and retest everything & check pushrod lengths to see what numbers I come up with.
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #262 by 54-4x4 » Fri Feb 08, 2019 8:59 am

That is really good you found the differences in your rockers.I wonder how you ended up with a mismatched set?

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #263 by old28racer » Fri Feb 08, 2019 5:12 pm

54-4x4 --- Yes I am also glad I found a few 1.8 ratio in my old race stuff. I have 5-10 sets of 1.8 & 1.7 BBC Aluminum Race Roller Rockers that were left from my drag racing, I ran both 1.7 & 1.8 depending on the motor I was building and the cam I was running. As my organization is less than perfect they do get mixed up from time to time.

pmuller9 --- Paul they are BBC cheep -o (China made) units that are sold by AT Racing World in Rialto, CA on Ebay PCE 261.1179. Their spec sheet says that the rockers have guide built in. Never heard of anything like this. Ain't going to buy any, just wanted to know difference between SA & NSA. Hope to retest valve lift & PR length tomorrow with 2 1.7 RR as it should have been. I'll let you know what I come up with.
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #264 by Max_Effort » Sat Feb 09, 2019 7:20 am

old28racer wrote: they are BBC cheep -o (China made) units that are sold by AT Racing World in Rialto, CA on Ebay PCE 261.1179. Their spec sheet says that the rockers have guide built in. Never heard of anything like thi.


I just had to go down that rabbit hole and see....

They are self guided and they are cheap. They probably have a self destruction feature too.




93B87FE9-1A9C-48B0-B9FA-DD1758CC7149.jpeg


F2C1325A-1CF7-4FA5-9B2C-E4CCDDCC9A85.jpeg
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guhfluh
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #265 by guhfluh » Sat Feb 09, 2019 10:55 am

The tips of the rockers are what self align on the valve stem tips. The tangs overhang either side of the stem and the stem tips need to be long enough for the tangs to miss the retainers...or the tangs shortened.
1967 F-250 Crew Cab 2wd, 300 6cyl, T-170/RTS/TOD 4-speed overdrive
240 head, Offy C, EFI exhaust manifolds, Comp 268H, mandrel 2.5-3" exhaust, Edelbrock 500, Pertronix ignitor and coil, recurved dizzy. 200whp/300wtq

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #266 by old28racer » Sat Feb 09, 2019 1:17 pm

Max_Effort --- I'm with you on the self destruction feature. :mrgreen:

guhfluh --- They look & sound like junk. Reviews are sure not good. :thumbdown:
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #267 by guhfluh » Sat Feb 09, 2019 3:21 pm

Junk or not doesn't have anything to do with the self aligning design. Many rockers are designed the same way from reputable manufacturers. Some have "washers" in a larger OD than the roller on either side of the roller tip to keep the rocker aligned on the valve tip. They too need to be measured for clearance from the keepers and retainer.
1967 F-250 Crew Cab 2wd, 300 6cyl, T-170/RTS/TOD 4-speed overdrive
240 head, Offy C, EFI exhaust manifolds, Comp 268H, mandrel 2.5-3" exhaust, Edelbrock 500, Pertronix ignitor and coil, recurved dizzy. 200whp/300wtq

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #268 by old28racer » Sat Feb 09, 2019 6:02 pm

guhfluh --- I was commenting on those units, I would not put them on any motor I am building. I get how the SA rockers work, but after 40+ years of drag racing with tons of different rocker companys I will stay with NSA units, guide plates, & aligning push rod slots. Never had a roller rocker failure in all my years of racing, but I changed them out after a certain number of 1/4 mile passes like you should. :mrgreen:
Bad Day Racing Is Better Than A Day In The Stands :mrgreen:

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #269 by old28racer » Wed Feb 13, 2019 11:10 pm

pmuller9 -- Paul, just wanted to post a little information on my push rod lengths to see if I am doing it correctly. I installed new valve springs on the #1 & #2 cylinders with the seat pressure at 85# @ 1.735" installed.
Installed four new dry hydraulic lifters and used my two push rod calulators set at 10.350" long (.065" for push rod adjustment). With cam on the base I screwed the poly lock down until the free play was just gone. Then I turned the poly lock down 3/4 of a turn to set the lifter pre-load.

Turned the motor over 5 or 6 times, all was very smooth, I have .075 - .080 Coil Bind clearance.

Put a dial indicator on both the #1 Int & Exh to check valve lift with the new refreshed setup. The cam card shows Int @ .476 & Exh @ .502 w/1.7 ratio rockers. The DI read .501 Exh and .461 Int. I am good with the Exh reading but why is the Int .015" short of were it should be at .476? I know that .015 is no big deal with the bigger valve size & this is not a race motor where I am trying to get every little bit out of the setup, just wondered? I have the DI plunger centered over the rocker roller ball shaft when taking the measurement.

If you need more information just let me know.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #270 by pmuller9 » Wed Feb 13, 2019 11:24 pm

If I understand you correctly the lifters are dry when you set up the preload which is correct for adjusting the valve train.
But the lifter plunger will still go down even further before the lifter starts to lift the valve.

If you want to check valve lift you need to adjust the pushrod till the lifter plunger is bottomed out when the lifter is on the cam base.
What does the pattern look like on the top of the valve tip?

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #271 by old28racer » Thu Feb 14, 2019 11:57 am

pmuller9 -- Yes you are correct, the lifters are dry. Also after I had the free play taken up and before I tested the lift I lengthened my PR calculator to set all the preload, the lifter plunger is all the way to the bottom. The roller mark on the top of the valve stem is a little bit to the outside, not to bad and this is the shortest push rod length I can have with the stud bosses the length they are. All of this is just so I can see if my lift numbers are close to what they should be as per cam card with 1.7 ratio rockers.

I am going to go with a set of the Elgin SSR-888 RS 1.6 chrome moly BBF roller rockers. I am hoping that they will take a little shorter PR and this will center the roller on the stem even better. What do you think about the Intake lift being .015 short of what the cam card calls for with my 1.7 rockers? Not that big a deal on a mild street motor?

As always Thanks
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #272 by pmuller9 » Thu Feb 14, 2019 12:41 pm

You done good!
Waiting to see what the Elgins will do.
Hope you are having fun.

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #273 by old28racer » Thu Feb 14, 2019 2:45 pm

Paul, I love this stuff :mrgreen: Two / Three hundred more questions and I might have a handle on this 300 motor. :thumbup: I am sure you will git tired of answering my questions long before I get tired of picking your brain of all the 240/300 knowledge you have stored up there. :wink:
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #274 by Max_Effort » Thu Feb 14, 2019 6:26 pm

old28racer wrote:pmuller9 -- Yes you are correct, the lifters are dry. Also after I had the free play taken up and before I tested the lift I lengthened my PR calculator to set all the preload, the lifter plunger is all the way to the bottom. The roller mark on the top of the valve stem is a little bit to the outside, not to bad and this is the shortest push rod length I can have with the stud bosses the length they are. All of this is just so I can see if my lift numbers are close to what they should be as per cam card with 1.7 ratio rockers.

I am going to go with a set of the Elgin SSR-888 RS 1.6 chrome moly BBF roller rockers. I am hoping that they will take a little shorter PR and this will center the roller on the stem even better. What do you think about the Intake lift being .015 short of what the cam card calls for with my 1.7 rockers? Not that big a deal on a mild street motor?

As always Thanks


Measured lift is usually maxed on stud rockers if the pushrod length is set with the mid-lift method pmuller9 was explaining and in the video link I posted. However rocker ratios often aren’t exactly as marked.

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #275 by old28racer » Thu Feb 14, 2019 10:17 pm

Max_Effort --- I agree with your comment on exact rocker ratio. As the BBC roller rockers I am using for the lift test are a new (old) set of Crane race units they tend to be real close to marked ratio. We will see how the Elgin SSR-888RS BBF 1.6 units work out when I get them.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #276 by pmuller9 » Fri Feb 15, 2019 9:04 am

Would you please measure the distance from the top of the valve stem to the top of the rocker stud tower.
You may need to run a short straight edge on the top of the valve stem to get over the rocker stud tower.
Thanks

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #277 by 54-4x4 » Fri Feb 15, 2019 9:16 am

old28racer,how did you install your cam,straight up or?

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #278 by old28racer » Fri Feb 15, 2019 12:13 pm

pmuller9 --- Paul, I will get that measurement for you later today.

54-4x4 --- It is a RV Cam with no advance or retard and it is installed straight up.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #279 by pmuller9 » Fri Feb 15, 2019 4:33 pm

In post # 156 it looks like you marked the harmonic balancer and timing cover with white paint before the pistons were installed.
After the pistons were in did you check to see if the timing marks were correct with #1 piston at TDC?

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #280 by old28racer » Fri Feb 15, 2019 5:41 pm

pmuller9 --- I had one of the old piston/rod connected to the crank and a dial indicator to show me TDC. When I got done marking the cover & balancer I pulled the old piston & rod out. When I got it out I had forgot to take the picture, so I took it with the piston out. I have not installed my new pistons as of yet. I will when I am good with the valve train setup.

I took a measurement from top of valve stem to flat surface top of stud boss and I got 0.889 - 0.917 over four times. Bit hard with the stem at a small angle. If you need for me to check it again just let me know. Maybe I can lay a magnetic edge across the stem top for a more accurate measurement.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #281 by pmuller9 » Fri Feb 15, 2019 9:12 pm

old28racer wrote:I took a measurement from top of valve stem to flat surface top of stud boss and I got 0.889 - 0.917 over four times. Bit hard with the stem at a small angle. If you need for me to check it again just let me know. Maybe I can lay a magnetic edge across the stem top for a more accurate measurement.

.900" seems too short
Looking at one of your pics, if I go straight accross the valve tip keeping the line 90 degrees with the valve stem, the line hits the rocker stud about halfway down the threaded section of the stud.
If the stud is 1.75" long that puts the line 1.275" above the top of stud boss.

Thanks for taking the time to measure this.

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #282 by old28racer » Fri Feb 15, 2019 10:11 pm

Paul, now you got me thinking, I will retake measurement tomorrow morning and see if it is correct and also check the screw in stud measurement. Like I said I love this stuff. :bang: :thanks:
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #283 by old28racer » Sat Feb 16, 2019 5:17 pm

pmuller9 -- Ran the measurements again, layed magnetic straight edge on top of the valve stem and this is what I got, much better way of doing this. The screw in stud length from the boss tower flat area to top of the stud is 1.75" as you said. The top of the valve stem to the tower boss flat spot is 1.250" (close to your 1.275 number). Also I got a measurement on how high the top of the boss tower is above the head surface. I measured down from the flat spot to the head directly behind the push rod slot, it is 1.500". let me know what you think.

The three pictures are with the (dry) hydraulic lifter preloaded with the plunger at the very bottom. Picture 105 is with the cam on the base circle, 106 is at half lift, 107 is at full lift. The roller rocker is all the way down on the stud. As you can see my 90 degree at half open is a little off, good at full open. Push rod length is as short as it can be for this setup. The rocker roller is toward the outside as the pictures show.

I don't see how using 1.6 roller rockers will help this setup as I can not go shorter on the push rods & rocker are at bottom on the stud. :help: :bang:

Image
Image
Image
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #284 by pmuller9 » Sat Feb 16, 2019 5:36 pm

old28racer Thanks for the measurements.
This helps confirms some standards for maching the rocker stud towers.
For the BBC roller rocker, the distance from valve tip to stud tower top is 1.400" without guide plates and 1.500" with guide plates.
Your towers are a little high.

I said that the ideal rocker LENGTH would be 1.60" rather than 1.65" and was not refering to the rocker ratio.
The other possibility is to offset the hole when drilling for the 7/16 stud hole and moving the rocker stud away from the valve which should center the roller tip better.

I will be curiuos to see how the Elgin rockers dimesions work.

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #285 by bubba22349 » Sat Feb 16, 2019 7:11 pm

Just curious Wouldn’t bottoming out the hydraulic lifter give somewhat of a wrong position measurement of the roller tip to valve stem center and length measurement of the push rod? I always used to use a soild type lifter for these measurements.
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #286 by old28racer » Sat Feb 16, 2019 8:12 pm

bubba223489 -- I have been checking valve lift with both solids & hydraulics to see if dry there is any difference. When I go for the final push rod measurement I will use the standard 3/4 turn preload.

pmuller9 -- As for the rocker length 160 / 165 I get it now. Got to remember your dealing with a life long BBC dude and you got to spell it out to me like a kid. :lol:

As for the valve stem to flat tower numbers, 1.400" (NGP) - 1.250" my number we have my tower being .150" to tall. If you can remember way back when I had the 240 head press in studs pulled and the tower milled to make a good surface for the screw in stud hex to sit on my machine shop was to mill an additional .100" off the tower to lower the stud. They have a few younger guys working there that don't have the old time work knowledge that the former owner had. I really don't think they took the .100" off. I will talk to the old owners son and see what happened. As I have only the #1&#2 cylinder with the new valves springs mounted, I may just strip the head again & have the towers lowered. Will I be able to remove the new positive oil seal from the guide and reinstall?

Thanks for all the help :thumbup:
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #287 by pmuller9 » Sat Feb 16, 2019 9:55 pm

bubba22349 wrote:Just curious Wouldn’t bottoming out the hydraulic lifter give somewhat of a wrong position measurement of the roller tip to valve stem center and length measurement of the push rod? I always used to use a soild type lifter for these measurements.


Good Question.
It can be done using a bottomed out lifter plunger.

Let's say you want .060" preload at the lifter. That's about a 3/4 turn on a 7/16" x 20 stud with a 1.6 ratio rocker.

Measure the total plunger travel in this case it should be .160" which is a .100" difference from the preload distance.
Take all of the pushrod measurements for the correct rocker geometry with the lifter plunger bottomed out.
Then take .100" off the measuring pushrod length to get the real pushrod length.

This is assuming actual heavy valve springs are in place so the lifter plunger bottoms out before opening the valves off the seat.

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #288 by old28racer » Sat Feb 16, 2019 11:20 pm

I know for sure that the lifter plunger is bottomed out before it moves the rocker as I have a dial indicator setup to indicate any rocker movement. Heavy valve springs are in place for the test.

What is .050" preload with 3/4 turn on 7/16 stud with a 1.7 ratio rocker?
Are we looking at .160" - .050 = .110" different than the preload distance?
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #289 by pmuller9 » Sat Feb 16, 2019 11:45 pm

.050" lifter preload is about 2/3 of a turn on a 7/16 x20 stud with a 1.7 ratio rocker.
You need to measure the total lifter plunger travel on your lifters.

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #290 by bubba22349 » Sun Feb 17, 2019 12:23 am

I always run mine at zero lash plus a quarter turn. :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #291 by old28racer » Sun Feb 17, 2019 12:26 am

Will do tomorrow. I am sending you a PM in a few minutes. Get some rest.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #292 by old28racer » Sun Feb 17, 2019 1:52 pm

bubba22349 -- I have been working with nothing but solid & roller lifters in my race stuff for the last 40+ years, have not used a hydraulic lifter for years on any motor. Just want to make sure I have it correct on this 300 build. Everyone has their own way & amount of turns. I used 3/4 turn last time I did any. I will measure total plunger travel on my lifters to see what it is.

pmuller9 -- I really think I will have to lower the towers .100" to get the hex section of the stud lower so I can lower my rocker & in turn be able to shorten the push rod. This will all help move the roller to the center of the valve stem.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #293 by pmuller9 » Sun Feb 17, 2019 2:43 pm

old28racer wrote:pmuller9 -- I really think I will have to lower the towers .100" to get the hex section of the stud lower so I can lower my rocker & in turn be able to shorten the push rod. This will all help move the roller to the center of the valve stem.

Yes I agree, then you could use your 1.7 ratio rockers to give the valves the exta lift and not have to spend money on more rockers.

What is the thickness of the pushrod guide plates I welded for you?

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #294 by bubba22349 » Sun Feb 17, 2019 5:07 pm

old28racer wrote:bubba22349 -- I have been working with nothing but solid & roller lifters in my race stuff for the last 40+ years, have not used a hydraulic lifter for years on any motor. Just want to make sure I have it correct on this 300 build. Everyone has their own way & amount of turns. I used 3/4 turn last time I did any. I will measure total plunger travel on my lifters to see what it is.


Hi old28racer, yes I agree with you that a soild or the ultimate a roller cam is going to perform the best. I too have used a number of solid lifter cams in my race 427 FE's, and a pair of Roller cams in my 427 SOHC A/Gas project. Had a couple big block Chevy bracket cars that either got in trades or were offered at so low a cost that couldn't pass them up also a 502 in the motorhome all of them had hydraulic lifter cams. Nothing wrong with using 3/4 turn or 1 turn setting on some engines, on customer engine builds where also did those type settings too. As most people just don't want to hear the valves ticking for a few seconds after start up on their brand new rebuilt engine, but that little bit of ticking doesn't bother me on my personal builds. I did it because it gives you a little higher RPM limit before there is valve float, probably isn't a factor for most 300's until you building a drag car. Good luck I have been enjoying your engine build. :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #295 by old28racer » Sun Feb 17, 2019 8:22 pm

bubba22349 -- Ya I am an old 502 BBC dude. Both my alcohol injected altered roadster and my blowen/injected alcohol front motor dragster were 502 motors, both with roller cams, but now it is a more mellow motor, I may put this motor in my 1971 F250 that has a 300 with a C4. Current motor in the truck makes maybe 200-225 hp with Holley 2V carb & headers & dual exhaust. This 300 build motor should be a 275-300 hp unit when done. Thanks for the kind words and information.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #296 by old28racer » Sun Feb 17, 2019 9:08 pm

pmuller9 -- Well I went round & round all day on how I can make my 1.7 BBC roller rockers work, as I have them to use. The main problem is that the rockers are as far down on the screw in stud as they can be. The machine shop said they did not take the additional .100" off the tower like I asked, screw up on there part, got credit for later work.

To day I was looking through my old race part stuff and found 4 pairs of ARP 7/16 race screw in studs that have no hex on the bottom section. That hex is near .250" thick. I installed the new stud and was able to lower the roller rocker to more like it should be. With the rocker lower the roller is just back a bit from center on the stem when on the cam base circle and just about centered at half lift & bit forward on full lift. This is very do-able. As ARP is just 10 min from my house I will pickup 2 more stud pairs next week. Because of the new rocker lower position the new push rod length should fall into the 10.150 - 10.250 range, have not got a final number yet. My total lifter plunger depth was .175".

First picture shows new ARP screw in 7/16 stud.
Second picture shows new rocker location compared to ones with the hex studs.
Third picture shows rocker on the base circle, much better roller location.
Forth picture shows rocker at near half lift.
Fifth picture shows rocker at full lift.
Image
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Image
Image
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #297 by pmuller9 » Sun Feb 17, 2019 11:33 pm

Nice Find!

Can you show us the pattern on the top of the valve stem?
It looks like you may be too far down now by just a little bit.

Also what is the thickness of the pushrod guide plates I welded for you?

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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #298 by old28racer » Mon Feb 18, 2019 12:31 pm

pmuller9 -- I will try to get a picture of the stem mark later today. I agree that the rocker is a little too low as in the picture. I will try a few different lengths on the push rod checker to find one that gets the roller centered the best at half lift.

The SBC guide plates that you welded up for me are .135" thick.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #299 by old28racer » Mon Feb 18, 2019 12:31 pm

pmuller9 -- I will try to get a picture of the stem mark later today. I agree that the rocker is a little too low as in the picture. I will try a few different lengths on the push rod checker to find one that gets the roller centered the best at half lift.

The SBC guide plates that you welded up for me are .135" thick.
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Re: Street 300 L6 Motor

Post #300 by pmuller9 » Mon Feb 18, 2019 1:56 pm

old28racer wrote:pmuller9 -- I will try to get a picture of the stem mark later today. I agree that the rocker is a little too low as in the picture. I will try a few different lengths on the push rod checker to find one that gets the roller centered the best at half lift.

The SBC guide plates that you welded up for me are .135" thick.

We want the pattern across the top of the valve tip to be centered but that may not mean the roller is centered at half valve lift.
Use a black marker on the valve tip to get a pattern.

Thanks for the guide plate thickness

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