300 rebuild project

[guhfluh]

Recommend this turbo cam.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qufkzkwyxoz8o ... m.jpg?dl=0


It is very important that the cam is installed with the intake lobe center at 110* ATDC.

Want to keep the compression low because of the early closing intake valve of the turbo cam.
The KB S3117H heavy duty piston with a 30cc stepped dish will work
Did I miss anything?

Pmuller,

I have a question/concern about the Crower cam quoted here. It doesn't specifically pertain to only this one, as I have seen it in almost every cam card I look at that they offer. What is going on with their .050" duration numbers vs their opening and closing points? None of them seem to match because of their addition errors or opening and closing points being incorrect. Have you had a chance to measure one and see which of the measurements on the cards are incorrect?

[pmuller9]

Pmuller,

I have a question/concern about the Crower cam quoted here. It doesn't specifically pertain to only this one, as I have seen it in almost every cam card I look at that they offer. What is going on with their .050" duration numbers vs their opening and closing points? None of them seem to match because of their addition errors or opening and closing points being incorrect. Have you had a chance to measure one and see which of the measurements on the cards are incorrect?

Intake valve opening points can be before or after TDC. If the opening point is after TDC then the degree number is marked as a negative or in some cases like Crane the number is put in brackets.
The exhaust can close before or after TDC so in the case of the exhaust closing point, if it is before TDC then it is marked as negative or brackets.

So looking at the Crower turbo cam card, the .050" duration is from 5* atdc to 35* ABDC which is 210*.
The exahust is from 38* BBDC to 18* BTDC which is 200*
The intake lobe center is at 210*/2 + 5* ATDC which is 110* ATDC.
All is good.

Does this make sense?

[guhfluh]

Pmuller,

I have a question/concern about the Crower cam quoted here. It doesn't specifically pertain to only this one, as I have seen it in almost every cam card I look at that they offer. What is going on with their .050" duration numbers vs their opening and closing points? None of them seem to match because of their addition errors or opening and closing points being incorrect. Have you had a chance to measure one and see which of the measurements on the cards are incorrect?

Intake valve opening points can be before or after TDC. If the opening point is after TDC then the degree number is marked as a negative or in some cases like Crane the number is put in brackets.
The exhaust can close before or after TDC so in the case of the exhaust closing point, if it is before TDC then it is marked as negative or brackets.

So looking at the Crower turbo cam card, the .050" duration is from 5* atdc to 35* ABDC which is 210*.
The exahust is from 38* BBDC to 18* BTDC which is 200*
The intake lobe center is at 210*/2 + 5* ATDC which is 110* ATDC.
All is good.

Does this make sense?

Yes, kinda.

I don't quite understand as an example why they wouldn't express the intake as -5* BTDC instead of -5*ATDC when they mean +5*ATDC. They can keep the negative sign if they wish, but why change BTDC to ATDC as well?

I have had a couple sets of Crower cams that don't seem to run the way the cam card advertised and at .050" numbers suggest. Their cam cards were the same way and one even changed over the years for the same grind number. I haven't degreed them to find out exactly what is true, but I'm very curious.

Anyway, I know it's off topic, but since the card was here, I wanted to ask about it.

[brandoncw]

You can use the bottom half of the stock EFI intake manifold to fabricate a multi carb plenum.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1lqenf6ztqv4y ... e.jpg?dl=0

If i did this with a single carb, wouldnt i have uneven fuel distribution?
If so, should i just go with a manufactured intake, or use a couple of smaller carbs, for example the "webbers" i mentioned in an earlier post? I would like to fabricate what i can for the satisfaction of doing my own work.

[pmuller9]

You can use the bottom half of the stock EFI intake manifold to fabricate a multi carb plenum.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1lqenf6ztqv4y ... e.jpg?dl=0

If i did this with a single carb, wouldnt i have uneven fuel distribution?
If so, should i just go with a manufactured intake, or use a couple of smaller carbs, for example the "webbers" i mentioned in an earlier post? I would like to fabricate what i can for the satisfaction of doing my own work.

Will this manifold and carbs still be for turbocharging?

[brandoncw]

Will this manifold and carbs still be for turbocharging?

I do still plan on a turbo build, if that is what your are asking.

[pmuller9]

A single carb in the middle of the plenum does have distribution problems but you only have one carb to convert to a blow-thru.
Two carbs will give you much better distribution but then there are two carbs to convert and you have to make or buy two hats and make a "Y" to connect them together.

[brandoncw]

A single carb in the middle of the plenum does have distribution problems but you only have one carb to convert to a blow-thru.
Two carbs will give you much better distribution but then there are two carbs to convert and you have to make or buy two hats and make a "Y" to connect them together.

so ill be much happier if i did two carbs, just gotta put in the extra work?

[pmuller9]

so ill be much happier if i did two carbs, just gotta put in the extra work?

Yes

[brandoncw]

so ill be much happier if i did two carbs, just gotta put in the extra work?

Yes

Any double carb recommendations then?

[pmuller9]

A couple of 2100s would be cheap and simple to work on.
A 1.08" venturi size will be enough but no bigger than 1.14"

[brandoncw]

A couple of 2100s would be cheap and simple to work on.
A 1.08" venturi size will be enough but no bigger than 1.14"

Looks like im going with a couple 1.14" venturi carb, the other seems difficult to find.

[brandoncw]

quick question, with the turbo build, how large should the plenum be? i have a design that puts me at 156 cu inches

Edit: I have read 1x to 1.5x the engine displacement is a good starting point. So i bumped up my measurements and got 312 cubic inches now. Will this work good?

[pmuller9]

1X engine displacement will be enough for two 300 cfm 2 bbl carbs (1.14" 2100s) which is equivalent to a single 420 cfm 4 bbl carb.

Make sure the material thickness is enough to hold the amount of boost pressure you want to use X2 for margin.
Pressure test the plenum before using.

[brandoncw]

1X engine displacement will be enough for two 300 cfm 2 bbl carbs (1.14" 2100s) which is equivalent to a single 420 cfm 4 bbl carb.

Make sure the material thickness is enough to hold the amount of boost pressure you want to use X2 for margin.
Pressure test the plenum before using.

Ok thanks ill post some pics tomorrow of my progress if i can

[brandoncw]

ok pmuller9, I finally got paid. so now the most painful part is about to begin, buying everything, watching my numbers in the bank begin to shrink. I want to know are there any solid aluminum spacer plates for the auto lite 2100? Id like to weld them on and put studs in them, but I cant find any. If not I suppose ill just stack a few 3/16 aluminum plates and edge weld them and cut out the shape with the plasma, then refine with a carbide.

The hx35 is on the way, its a used genuine holset I snagged for 300. plan on putting a rebuild kit in it, then send off to be rebalanced. but that's for another time when the build is about over

[pmuller9]

The 2100/2150 and Holley 2300 stud pattern dimensions are 5 1/8" x 3 1/2"
Holley shows the spacing as 5.16" x 3.46"
I would get the carbs first just to be sure about the exact spacing.

Google "2 barrel carburetor spacer plate"
Here is a partial listing from Summit
https://www.summitracing.com/search/par ... =Ascending

[brandoncw]

The 2100/2150 and Holley 2300 stud pattern dimensions are 5 1/8" x 3 1/2"
Holley shows the spacing as 5.16" x 3.46"
I would get the carbs first just to be sure about the exact spacing.

Google "2 barrel carburetor spacer plate"
Here is a partial listing from Summit
https://www.summitracing.com/search/par ... =Ascending

My plan was to only cut out the ports and shape and manualy drill the holes, the plasma put a slight taper on holes. My plan to fabricate the mounts was to scan the gasket, upload it to the computer, and make it to scale. But make the ports about a 1/8 smaller and gasket match it.

[pmuller9]

My reply about carb spacer plates was because you asked about carburetor spacer plates?
Get me on the same page as you are. LOL
Thanks.

ok pmuller9, I finally got paid. so now the most painful part is about to begin, buying everything, watching my numbers in the bank begin to shrink. I want to know are there any solid aluminum spacer plates for the auto lite 2100? Id like to weld them on and put studs in them, but I cant find any. If not I suppose ill just stack a few 3/16 aluminum plates and edge weld them and cut out the shape with the plasma, then refine with a carbide.

[brandoncw]

My reply about carb spacer plates was because you asked about carburetor spacer plates?
Get me on the same page as you are. LOL
Thanks.

Im not sure what page im on lmfao. All of them perhaps?

I need something to secure the carb to the plenum, i dont think the 3/16 aluminum sheet metal the plenum is made from will cut it. Does that help a little lol

[pmuller9]

I need something to secure the carb to the plenum, i dont think the 3/16 aluminum sheet metal the plenum is made from will cut it. Does that help a little lol

As you can see from the Summit listings, the aluminum carb spacers are on the expensive side.
It would be cheaper to get an aluminum rem piece about 10" square, .500" thick and cut out 2 spacers.

[brandoncw]

Update, the engine block is sent off to be cleaned and machined, its getting bored and new cam bearings intalled.
I picked up a bottle of 100% lye crystals for $15 it should treat 10 gallons of water to clean all my rods and bearing caps, and other iron bolts and parts.

Crower says cam is $121.30. That seems like a steal for a custom cam

[brandoncw]

The aluminum intake is coming along nicely. Gotta tack up a couple more pieces then i can weld it all up.
For not really knowing the exact spacing of the runners, i think i did a pretty good job of getting it pretty close, nothing a carbide wont fix.
I also got all the injector ports plugged good
Will i need that other hole for anything? Any sensors?

[THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER]

Nice job
Are you welding the plenum on or bolting it to the runners?

[brandoncw]

Nice job
Are you welding the plenum on or bolting it to the runners?

Im welding around the inside of the runners after i flare them out a little. And then several 2 or 3 inch welds on the bottom Makes my life easier to me.

Got the sides cut out and got the majority of the plenum welded

[THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER]

Will i need that other hole for anything? Any sensors?

See, now I'd be just devious enough to turn that boss into something that everyone asks about.
Mount a weird sensor on it and plug the wires into an overflo bottle?
Put a blocked off pipe fitting in it and "Tee" it directly into the fuel line??
Mount a boost gage in there - preferably one pegged at about 30 psi???

You get the idea.
Keep 'em guessing!

[brandoncw]

Will i need that other hole for anything? Any sensors?

See, now I'd be just devious enough to turn that boss into something that everyone asks about.
Mount a weird sensor on it and plug the wires into an overflo bottle?
Put a blocked off pipe fitting in it and "Tee" it directly into the fuel line??
Mount a boost gage in there - preferably one pegged at about 30 psi???

You get the idea.
Keep 'em guessing!

so kinda the same idea as this??

[pmuller9]

No post

[THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER]

You get the idea.
Keep 'em guessing!

so kinda the same idea as this??[/quote]
That's it.

On one (rather controversial, legality-wise) car I built I had two toggle switches on the instrument panel. One read "illegal electronic devices", another read "GPS satellite uplink". P.S. They never did figure out what I really was doing.

[pmuller9]

Will i need that other hole for anything? Any sensors?

On the back end of the plenum weld a 1/4" or 3/8" thick plate large enough for four 1/8 pipe threaded holes providing there will be enough room between the back of the plenum and the firewall for fitting and lines.
You may want to just make the whole back plenum wall thick enough for threaded holes.

The reason for the four 1/8" pipe threaded hole:
You will need manifold pressure for your boost referenced fuel pressure regulator.
A line for a boost gauge.
You may also need a line to a BOV.
One spare in case you decide to run something like a water/methanol injection system later on.

I never "T" lines together. This way if one line fails it doesn't effect another line.

[brandoncw]

The reason for the four 1/8" pipe threaded hole:
You will need manifold pressure for your boost referenced fuel pressure regulator.
A line for a boost gauge.
You may also need a line to a BOV.
One spare in case you decide to run something like a water/methanol injection system later on.

I never "T" lines together. This way if one line fails it doesn't effect another line.

I was talking about the hole where a sensor went on the efi engine, but i will add that to the back. I dont belive i have ever seen 1/8" pipe fittings, do you mean 1/4"?

[pmuller9]

I dont belive i have ever seen 1/8" pipe fittings, do you mean 1/4"?

I'm sure you have. The hex size is actually 7/16"
Here is an example:
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/441394-131280

[brandoncw]

I dont belive i have ever seen 1/8" pipe fittings, do you mean 1/4"?

I'm sure you have. The hex size is actually 7/16"
Here is an example:
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/441394-131280

Ah gotcha, when you said pipe fitting, i was thinking the black steel plumbing pipes, not hose nipples lol

[brandoncw]

The intake is almost done, I got to get a carbide and open up the runner ends a bit to weld, and i have to get the fittings. then all thats left is to put the lid on it and paint it.

[brandoncw]

is this the correct mounting gasket for a ford 2100 carb?

https://www.autozone.com/fuel-delivery/ ... 6_461303_0

[pmuller9]

is this the correct mounting gasket for a ford 2100 carb?

https://www.autozone.com/fuel-delivery/ ... 6_461303_0

Some of the 2100 carbs have a curved base. You should wait until you have the carbs in hand to see which base they have.
https://www.autozone.com/fuel-delivery/ ... id=6190165

You can make a simple rectangular mounting plate that will cover both the 2100 and 2150 carb bases and use the gasket for the bolt pattern.
I would still wait till I had the carbs to get that exact bolt pattern spacing and the correct base gasket.

[brandoncw]

I have a few more questions to fire at you too, since i have to buy a cylinder head ( i used my good one to replace a cracked one) should i buy a carb heard or the efi head? I read on the efi performance thread that the carb head isnt prone to the exhaust cracks like the efi head and that it takes less work to get larger valves in it. In my mind that seems like the way to go, what is your thought

[pmuller9]

Get a carb head.
The larger combustion chamber makes it easier to get a lower compression ratio for turbocharging.

[brandoncw]

Get a carb head.
The larger combustion chamber makes it easier to get a lower compression ratio for turbocharging.

Ok ill add that to my shopping list

Next question, i was told that orileys will take in cranks and ship them to their springfield store to have them turned. I called them and they said something like it would take a week or two and that they charge just over $100 for the 300 crank, that is about a 1/3 of the price of a local shop i called. But of course they were expensive about everything i asked about, 120 for engine bake, 210 for bore, 340 for crank, 200 for valves. I think they deal mostly with top notch race engines lmao.
Anyways, do you think Orileys would do decent work?

[pmuller9]

Which shop are you going to use to do the machine work on the block and head?
Looks like there is a shop in Columbia and several around St Louis.

[brandoncw]

Which shop are you going to use to do the machine work on the block and head?
Looks like there is a shop in Columbia and several around St Louis.

I am using spradlin machine out of Mexico, Mo. He did good work on a detroit 3-53 engine for my friends log skidder. And his work on the other engines in the shop looks good too. He is just a small shop ran by just a couple people. Its A bit messy shop but clean work.

[brandoncw]

I called my machinist today, he said hes already got the block cleaned, bored, and honed. He had to go .030" over. I am about to get my cam bearings to him then he should be done with my block.
He checked flatness of the deck and it checks out good. So now i really need to get to work on a head. I get paid again monday. Then i can order one.
What mods to the combustion chamber do i need to do on a carb head to get 1.94 intake and 1.6 exhaust valves?

[THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER]

It can be as simple as cutting the seats for the bigger valves and then doing a three-angle valve job. OR...it can become more meticulous with blending and polishing.

[pmuller9]

You can bolt the head to the block and scribe the cylinder circle on to the surface of the head.
Then grind the chamber walls around the spark plug hole back to the scribe line and smooth out the rest of the chamber surface.
This will give a little extra unshrouding of the valves and add a couple CCs to the chamber volume.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5t7b6y8h5vdpu ... r.JPG?dl=0

It's also a good idea to install a hard exhaust valve seat if the head doesn't have one.
What head are you ordering?

[brandoncw]

You can bolt the head to the block and scribe the cylinder circle on to the surface of the head.
Then grind the chamber walls around the spark plug hole back to the scribe line and smooth out the rest of the chamber surface.
This will give a little extra unshrouding of the valves and add a couple CCs to the chamber volume.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5t7b6y8h5vdpu ... r.JPG?dl=0


It's also a good idea to install a hard exhaust valve seat if the head doesn't have one.

What head are you ordering?

Ok thanks, that seems simple enough and a heck of a lot faster than working the efi head.
Im not sure yet, it will have to be about $300 or less if possible, and idealy a bare head with nothing on it. If i cant find one for that price i may go hit the salvage yards

On an unrelated note, have any of you tried to buy a "valve cover gasket" for the later efi 300s? Autozone oriellys and napa all try to give you the pushrod cover gasket. So i always have to order valve cover gaskets for the earlier carb 300s. Just thought it was strange.

[brandoncw]

So i was considering the many different options i have for what this engine can go in today, the options i was originally thinking was an early mustang, late 70s ford pickup, or a 90s pickup. Then i got to thinking weight, if i want ut to go fast i need to be light, so that left me with the mustang at 2600 lbs. But i want even lighter still, then i remembered this old farmer has an old sand rail buggy in decent shape as far as the frame goes. So i estimate that after the engine and everything would be swapped, it would wheigh in at about 1500 lbs or maybe less. I like the idea of keeping two sets of rear wheels, one set of streets, and one set of off road tires. Just swap em out for what i want to do to have a universal toy that is unique, cool, and fast. What do you guys think?

[brandoncw]

Here is an old pic of the buggy
If i do get it, i think it would be cool to stretch the front out 2-3 feet and A.) Get an aftermarket sbf transaxle capable of the power and do a rear engine mount with a fuel tank up front or B.) Do a front/mid engine mount and rear fuel cell

Edit: so the transaxle is out of the picture. Gonna have to do the engine in front and swap in a 9" or an 8.8 rear. I have a spare 8.8 so i might just use that if i go this buggy route. I was hoping fir a cheapish transaxle swap so i could do wheelies like nobodys business.

I think I have picked the perfect transmission for the buggy idea. Its a Tremec TKO 5 speed. It is rated for above the amount of torque i will make with a rating of 600 ft/lbs. Did some simple math, and with the 5th gear ratio of .64, my rear gear of 3.53, and a 28 inch tire, i will be cruising along at over 150 mph at 5k rpm. Seems dangerous enough for me. will definately have to get upgraded racing bucket seats along with a little extra cross bars behind the seats, and a harness rather than the lap belt in that thing. its a little pricey, but i should be able to afford it once im in the Army and start getting my 13k worth of bonuses + my regular pay. Supposedly on some bases there are nice shops you can use for 5 bucks a day, or at least thats what the price was back in 2006. I am scheduled to leave for basic training May 28th. Its gonna be a life changing expirence, but its not one id turn down.

[brandoncw]

I did some more work on tge intake manifold

[THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER]

Very nice.

With your welding skills i"d pass on the buggy. You'd be better off welding up a purpose built chassis on your floor

[brandoncw]

Very nice.

With your welding skills i"d pass on the buggy. You'd be better off welding up a purpose built chassis on your floor

Only problem is i dont have a tubing bender. Nor a good welder of my own. So building one from the ground up would be a nightmare of pie cuts and a harbor freight flux core machine