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Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

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rmcphearson
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Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

Post #1 by rmcphearson » Tue May 15, 2018 8:06 pm

I am about the rebuild my Autolite 1100 on my 170. Are there instructions? Also, how do I clean/polish the outside of it?

Thanks,
-Roland

65_Stang_170
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Re: Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

Post #2 by 65_Stang_170 » Tue May 15, 2018 8:24 pm

Both of the rebuild kits I bought came with a blown-apart diagram. You basically just take it all apart and document how things were. replace the old with the new, and put it back together. Blow out all of the passages to make sure there are no clogs. If you have a shop manual, do the bench adjustments to the specifications in the tables (accelerator pump, float, etc...).

I used a wire wheel to clean the outside of most of the gunk (couldn't reach all of the tight spaces though...).

I had no clue what I was doing when I rebuilt mine for the first time. It's not that bad even going in blind. Good Luck!
1965 Mustang Coupe - 170 I6, 3.03 Manual Transmission, Autolite 1101 Carb
No Upgrades at this time.

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Econoline
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Re: Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

Post #3 by Econoline » Tue May 15, 2018 9:58 pm

Mike @ Mikes carb parts has a whole video series on rebuilding the 1100.

http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Autolit ... p_281.html
It ain't gonna fix itself

1964 Econoline 170 3.03 on the tree swapped to a 250 with an aod, custom front boosted disc brakes and 3.70 9" rear axle
1993 F-150 xl 4x4 4.9 5-speed, Mazda manual stock
1992 Jeep Cherokee 2-door 4.0, 5-speed manual
1989 Toyota Cressida 3.0, auto

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chad
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carb rebuild tips

Post #4 by chad » Tue May 15, 2018 10:13 pm

ya da vids R big help 2 us beginners, try several, u'll like em.

Clean chest hi or elbow hi surface covered wid a towel or non-patterned lght colored cloth, nice light, compressed air (a can o'it or official compressor), over nite soak in some cleaner, sm tools (wire brushes, drivers, n.n. pliers).

Patients & ability 2 walk away (get a break w/o some 1 shattering ur stuff while gone - even a dog or cat).

A manual w/exploded diagram (as said above).
This forum or local buddy w/experience...

Check back in. These guys helped me rebuild my 1st carb!
I may ck in again for the RBS (as I may wanna put in new jets'n these R pressed in not screwed in). :rolflmao:
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

Post #5 by CZLN6 » Wed May 16, 2018 7:02 pm

Howdy rmcphearson:

Good luck on this adventure. Start by giving the carb a thorough visual inspection. Check to make sure the throttle shaft is relatively snug in the carb body. The video and instructions from Mike's is an awesome addition. Tip #1- read the instructions- read again. Tip #2- a good quality aerosol carb cleaner is very helpful at getting into the tight spots and channels. Tip#3- Don't over tighten any of the screws tapped into the soft carb body. Stripped threads/cross thread are fairly common on these carbs. Take particular care when starting the fuel line into the bowl. Finally take note of the number on the main jet, for future reference.

Good luck and enjoy.

Adios, David
co-author of the Falcon Performance Handbook
http://www.falcon6handbook.com/

rmcphearson
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Re: Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

Post #6 by rmcphearson » Sat Dec 29, 2018 5:18 pm

I've been putting this off until now. I put a electric fuel pump on a few months ago and have been driving it every day. A few days ago the engine flooded. With the fuel pump on there is fuel pouring out of the vent valve tube. I assume the float valve is not closing.

So far I have noticed the following missing:
1) all 3 check balls
2) the pump discharge weight (that goes on top of the pump discharge check ball)
3) scv valve gasket

Must have been a real winner f***ing with this thing.

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Econoline
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Re: Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

Post #7 by Econoline » Sat Dec 29, 2018 10:09 pm

Them balls is all emmision sh*t. I jus pich m. Nevarun betor. Gawdem gubment, ol up n r junk.

:wink:
It ain't gonna fix itself

1964 Econoline 170 3.03 on the tree swapped to a 250 with an aod, custom front boosted disc brakes and 3.70 9" rear axle
1993 F-150 xl 4x4 4.9 5-speed, Mazda manual stock
1992 Jeep Cherokee 2-door 4.0, 5-speed manual
1989 Toyota Cressida 3.0, auto

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bubba22349
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Re: Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

Post #8 by bubba22349 » Sun Dec 30, 2018 12:57 am

:shock: yessiree that's sure enough :bang: those gubermnt fools don't know jack s..t :nod: :rolflmao:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

frozenrabbit
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Re: Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

Post #9 by frozenrabbit » Sun Dec 30, 2018 2:54 am

You should be running a pressure regulator with an electric fuel pump, unless it's a low pressure pump.

An 1100 only takes 4-5 psi at idle.

I'd install the check balls and weight. Not alot of EPA regulations on an 1100 carb.

Standard 1100 rebuild kits will have new balls, but not the weight.

rmcphearson
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Re: Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

Post #10 by rmcphearson » Sun Dec 30, 2018 12:42 pm

Thanks for the info! I think the pump I installed is 6psi max. I'll have to double check. I put the 3 balls in and made my own weight from a small bolt shank, just guessing the approximate size from the illustration. If someone has an extra weight (or has one lying around that you can weigh accurately) please let me know. Now my problem is stripped threads in one of the holes for the accelorator pump housing...

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Re: Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

Post #11 by rmcphearson » Mon Dec 31, 2018 4:00 pm

Well, I got it back together and much to my surprise I did all the adjustments correctly and it runs good but I've got a little work left to do. The accelorator pump works now (it didn't work before) but if I get on it quick gas shoots out from around the acc pump gasket because the cover is warped. There is also a tiny bit of gas seeping from the bowl gasket. I ordered a repair flange for the pump cover from Mike's Carb Parts along with the check ball weight I needed. I rigged up something for the stripped pump cover screw threads but I plan to helicoil it.
https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Autoli ... _1264.html

rmcphearson
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Re: Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

Post #12 by rmcphearson » Wed Jan 02, 2019 2:45 pm

Well it was fine the other day but now gas is pouring out where the vent valve rod goes in. I assume the float valve is not closing. I confirmed the max pressure of this electric fuel pump is 7 psi. Any ideas?

frozenrabbit
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Re: Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

Post #13 by frozenrabbit » Wed Jan 02, 2019 6:21 pm

1 to 2 psi higher at idle could push past the needle and seat.

The float could be saturated, out of adjustment, or binding around the pivot pin or needle retainer clip.

Float in right side up?

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Re: Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

Post #14 by bubba22349 » Wed Jan 02, 2019 7:58 pm

X2 check the float out if you didn't replace it along with the needle and seat. :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

rmcphearson
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Re: Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

Post #15 by rmcphearson » Fri Jan 04, 2019 7:12 pm

Hmmm, it ran for 2 months with the electric pump. And it ran for 30 minutes after the rebuild so the float valve was working after the rebuild. That makes me think the float may have a hole in it and it took a while to become saturated. Thanks for the replies.

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bubba22349
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Re: Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

Post #16 by bubba22349 » Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:18 pm

rmcphearson wrote: Ok when I left off the other day gas was pouring out where the vent valve rod goes it. I just took it apart and the bowl is bone dry. I don't get it, shouldn't the bowl be full?
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

Post #17 by bubba22349 » Tue Jan 08, 2019 2:34 pm

rmcphearson wrote: Ok when I left off the other day gas was pouring out where the vent valve rod goes it. I just took it apart and the bowl is bone dry. I don't get it, shouldn't the bowl be full?



Yes it should have fuel in it! How much of a time period was it until you took it apart?
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

rmcphearson
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Re: Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

Post #18 by rmcphearson » Tue Jan 08, 2019 2:59 pm

A few days. Maybe it just evaporated?

rmcphearson
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Re: Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

Post #19 by rmcphearson » Tue Jan 08, 2019 3:05 pm

I dunked the float in hot water. No bubbles. I think the float is good.

I checked the fuel pressure with a 100 psi gauge, it reads 6 psi. Don't know if it's accurate because of the scale.

I haven't been able to rig up something to bench pressure check the seat yet.

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bubba22349
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Re: Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

Post #20 by bubba22349 » Tue Jan 08, 2019 3:17 pm

rmcphearson wrote:A few days. Maybe it just evaporated?


Yep that's for sure evaporating or possibly by leakage too. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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bubba22349
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Re: Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

Post #21 by bubba22349 » Tue Jan 08, 2019 3:18 pm

rmcphearson wrote:I dunked the float in hot water. No bubbles. I think the float is good.

I checked the fuel pressure with a 100 psi gauge, it reads 6 psi. Don't know if it's accurate because of the scale.

I haven't been able to rig up something to bench pressure check the seat yet.


With the brass type floats shaking them you can hear if there is fuel inside them as well the fuel will seap out of the crack. They also feel much heavier than a good float does. :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

rmcphearson
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Re: Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

Post #22 by rmcphearson » Tue Jan 08, 2019 4:00 pm

I put a helicoil in the pump cover threads and installed the cover repair flange from Mikes. That stopped the leak around the pump diaphragm. It's running good now and accelerates good. If I leave the fuel pump on with the engine off for several minutes there is no leak. We'll see what happens tommorrow.

If I want to get a pressure regulator to knock the psi down to 3 or 4 where would I get one?

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chad
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Re: Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

Post #23 by chad » Tue Jan 08, 2019 6:35 pm

"...get a pressure regulator...'
Matt at "our place" (vintage inlines dot com)
https://www.vintageinlines.com/product- ... -regulator

or the big box stores (Summit, AutoZone)
"...to 3 or 4..."psi
yes, that's bout right. Y would ur 'mechnical' B anymore than this?
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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bubba22349
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Re: Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

Post #24 by bubba22349 » Tue Jan 08, 2019 7:41 pm

You used to able to get them at many auto parts like NAPA but I haven't needed to look for one in quite awhile. I am sure you could find one at summit or the many other online sources. The Autolite carb's will handle presure output of the stock fuel pumps though without trouble. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

rmcphearson
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Re: Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

Post #25 by rmcphearson » Wed Jan 09, 2019 4:08 pm

Thanks.

All is well today, no leaks or overflowing. I get 0 vacuum from the SCV at idle and a max of 5 when I rev it up. Is that normal?
Also, I need to plug the 1/4" hole in the exhaust manifold. There was a remnant of a automatic choke pipe that was pinched off plugging the hole. I punched it out because I thought I was going to put a different carb on with an auto choke. How should I plug the hole?

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bubba22349
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Re: Autolite 1100 rebuild tips please

Post #26 by bubba22349 » Wed Jan 09, 2019 4:31 pm

rmcphearson wrote:Thanks.

All is well today, no leaks or overflowing. I get 0 vacuum from the SCV at idle and a max of 5 when I rev it up. Is that normal?
Also, I need to plug the 1/4" hole in the exhaust manifold. There was a remnant of a automatic choke pipe that was pinched off plugging the hole. I punched it out because I thought I was going to put a different carb on with an auto choke. How should I plug the hole?


Yes since these SCV carb's and the LOM Distributors (Load O Matic) need to be a match, because this advance system works much differently (it's by load) than any other of the typical distribtor advance systems, plus it uses a combo of two vacuum sources. You can read all about them in the sites excellent tech article, the link for it is here ci/Loadomatic.html

Yes if it is actually leaking and blowing exhaust gas and noise out from an inside manifold leak, otherwise it dosnt matter if it's open or not. There are some drive in type plugs available in the Help section in most Auto parts stores. They are a shaped aluminum cone (tampered) then be sure to also do the bottom hole of the manifold too. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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