VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

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THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
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VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #1 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Wed May 23, 2018 8:58 am

My old topic got "locked". As I have a lot more left to do I'll start another one. As luck would have it this summer I'm building the "mule" engine for it, along with another U-flow engine for my son's Anglia, on which I may start another thread if time permits.
This week I started on the head:

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the intakes get a 30 deg. back cut
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ready for reassembly
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The full build story is on the H.A.M.B.:

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/thr ... ct.223598/
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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #2 by Shorty » Wed May 23, 2018 10:52 pm

Checked out the build story you referenced, wow man, nice work.
85 F150 on 78 bronco frame C6 np205 welded dana44 front, trussed posi nine inch rear. EFI exhaust manifolds into one 2 1/2" rolls on 35x12.5x15 Maxxis Trepador.

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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #3 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Sat May 26, 2018 9:41 pm

Thank you Shorty.

I am having trouble finding the right exhaust spring among my stash to use to eliminate the positive valve rotators. I may look into big block springs as the valves are longer than U-flow heads.
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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #4 by Wesman07 » Sun May 27, 2018 2:01 am

Very cool. I’ve always wondered what tricks you have up your sleeve. Interesting car too!
In-lines we trust

86 f150 300 efi with advanced stock cam. Np435, Dana 60/ 10.25, 35" BFG's, four link front suspension with 12" travel fox coil overs, custom deaver leaf pack in the rear.

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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #5 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Mon Jun 11, 2018 10:47 pm

Work continues on the crossflow cylinder head build up.
ALL VALVE SPRING LOADS CHECKED ON THE HIGH SIDE OF THE SPEC - GOOD NEWS
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INSTALLED HEIGHT SHOWED SPRING SHIMS ARE NEEDED.
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HARDENED STEEL SPRING CUPS AND HI-PO SHIMS ARE USED.
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GUIDES ARE CROSSHATCH HONED FOR ADEQUATE CLEARANCE AND OIL RETENTION.
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THE INNER DIA. OF THE CUPS WAS TOO SMALL, REQUIRING GRINDING TO ENLARGE. I MADE UP A PLUG GAGE TO FACILITATE THE PROCESS.
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THE CUP SEATS REQUIRED A LITTLE CLEARANCING TO THE CORE PLUGS.
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AFTER GRINDING, THE VALVES ARE LAPPED IN PLACE.
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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #6 by sandboxer » Tue Jun 12, 2018 12:35 am

Awesome

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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #7 by Wesman07 » Wed Jun 13, 2018 10:12 am

I know you mentioned it before... but where did you find a ford aluminum crossflow head?
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86 f150 300 efi with advanced stock cam. Np435, Dana 60/ 10.25, 35" BFG's, four link front suspension with 12" travel fox coil overs, custom deaver leaf pack in the rear.

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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #8 by 1986F150six » Wed Jun 13, 2018 10:33 am

The FTF is a retired Ford engine development engineer.

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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #9 by WorldChampGramp » Thu Jun 14, 2018 8:04 am

Wesman07 wrote:I know you mentioned it before... but where did you find a ford aluminum crossflow head?


Wesman07 and others:
Get out your magnets, the x-flow head pictured in FTF's post is cast iron and weighs considerably more than the 240/300 u-flow. Speaking of flow, if my memory serves me well the CFM numbers from these heads was not what one would expect from a Ford casting effort.

As part of our u-flow and X-flow development program this past weekend I had breakfast with the infamous Al Turnerwho was responsible for the Ford of Australia Racing Program “Back in the Day” for a period of about 7-years. I will ask Al for the skinny on why these heads were produced, where they were cast, etc etc. This head appears to me to have similar chamber and exhaust layout characteristics to what I remember from our Dearborn Flow lab work circa 1969/70 when we were VERY interested in what the Ausies had produced as a smaller intake port 351C “in-your-face” response to our sewer intake port un-streetable Boss 302. The internal politics and friction within the company back then was an unfortunate way of life and we were basically stuck with what the folks in the E&F (engine & foundry) Division served up headed by their Chief Engineer Bill Gay who we racers despised.

BTW Al Turner and I worked together in the very 1ST “Ford Race Group” actual corporate name then was the Performance Events Department and we were located across from the street from Ford’s Test Track in the Ford Division Corporate offices. The SVO contingent of Ford [everyone is familiar with today] was not created and staffed until 1980 as Ford Corporate had ZERO - in terms of a “race program” involvement - from 1973 thru 1979. Way more than you bargained for but misinformation is as bad as no information, in my humble opinion. Bruce Sizemore, aka “Gramps”

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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #10 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Thu Jun 14, 2018 8:50 am

Wesman07 wrote:I know you mentioned it before... but where did you find a ford aluminum crossflow head?

From SVO.
It is actually a one-piece cast iron head, that I ground and painted aluminum to reflect what a period piece may have looked like coming out of the shops of Miller, Offenhauser et al. In addition to their famous four cylinder DOHC race engines that dominated the world racing scene for so many years they also had inline sixes, inline eights, and even V-16s. I will doll it up with some old accessories to make it look old.

From what I've read a typical Offy four on methanol, normally aspirated, put out about 350 HP, well within the capabilities of one of my 300s, and probably far beyond my driving talents on a dirt circle track. That is why this first iteration will be basically a bare bones stock build up until I get my feet wet turning left...
...Or until somebody tries to pass me.
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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #11 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Thu Jun 14, 2018 9:02 am

Ready to bolt on with a really beefy rocker arm shaft.

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I made a minor change to the rocker arm oiling circuit to improve lubrication. Otherwise stock.

Image

OK, I DID install a bigger exhaust valve. I just can't leave well enough alone.

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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #12 by MechRick » Thu Jun 14, 2018 3:02 pm

Love that hand crank valve lapper!
1994 F150, 4.9L/ZF 5 speed, C-Vic police driveshaft
EFI head w/mild port work, 3 angle valve job
1996 long block, stock pistons, ARP rod bolts
Stock cam, aluminum cam gear
Hedman header, full mandrel bent duals, crossover, super turbos
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=73244
Bronco II with a 2.3L swap http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=72863
1988 F250 2x4, 460 ZF 5 speed.

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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #13 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Thu Jun 14, 2018 4:04 pm

MechRick wrote:Love that hand crank valve lapper!

Thanks Rick - its vintage. It actually works really good. It spins the valve one way, and then the other as it clocks it a few degrees then it does it again and again so you can watch the valve precess back and forth as it slowly moves around in a circle, insuring uniform concentrictiy.

Most all of my machine shop equipment is vintage. When I decided at a young age to make building and racing cars my lifelong hobby I soon discovered if I wanted to insure quality work and save money at the same time I'd be better off buying good used equipment and refurbishing it as necessary than to pay somebody else and hope for the best. I think the quality of work is largely dependent on the skill of the operator and whether he gives a hoot about doing things right. So while my stuff is not CNC'd and laser guided I do OK with yesterday's stuff.

It reminds me of some artist friends who make a big deal about how much they spend for a quality paint brush or canvas or whatever. To which I answer, "The prehistoric ancients crawled inside a dimly lit cave with pigments in their mouths, laid on their backs and spit out some of the world's most beautiful and valuable works of art ever."
Its all in the skill and imagination of the operator.
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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #14 by MechRick » Wed Jun 20, 2018 7:11 pm

I get you.

A parts rep came in to the shop one day trying to get us to buy their brake rotors heaping praise on a $500k cnc machine that the product was produced on.

I replied it wasn't the $500k piece of equipment I was worried about, it was the $10 per hour guy running it. :roll:

I too prefer to do my own work, if not just for the satisfaction of learning *how*.
1994 F150, 4.9L/ZF 5 speed, C-Vic police driveshaft
EFI head w/mild port work, 3 angle valve job
1996 long block, stock pistons, ARP rod bolts
Stock cam, aluminum cam gear
Hedman header, full mandrel bent duals, crossover, super turbos
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=73244
Bronco II with a 2.3L swap http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=72863
1988 F250 2x4, 460 ZF 5 speed.

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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #15 by woodbutcher » Thu Jun 21, 2018 10:07 am

:lol: Hi Rick.Bet that reply went over like a rubber crutch in a polio ward.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
"People never lie so much as after a hunt,during a war,or before an election".
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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #16 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Tue Jul 17, 2018 6:25 pm

I just got back from a trip out to the American Museum of Speed in Lincoln NE. I will post some pertinent pictures of details I saw. I learned a lot. I also met with another gentleman who is building a car similar to mine but with a '41 Lincoln V12 complete with exceedingly rare speed equipment.
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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #17 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Wed Jul 18, 2018 8:26 pm

I arrived home inspired to make another little accessory - an external fuel pressure pump. I made a wood pattern and used a chunk of a failed aluminum race car driveshaft (that is a story unto itself) for the body.

Image

Image

Image

It still needs metal finishing.
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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #18 by 1986F150six » Thu Jul 19, 2018 10:45 am

Very nice work! :thumbup:

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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #19 by woodbutcher » Thu Jul 19, 2018 12:18 pm

:D Hi FTF.Very nice Sir.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
"People never lie so much as after a hunt,during a war,or before an election".

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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #20 by 67Straightsix » Thu Jul 19, 2018 9:57 pm

Looking good :thumbup:

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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #21 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Sat Aug 11, 2018 10:16 am

On to the cam installation.

I degreed the cam in. I will be starting with the stock cam. It has 110 LSA. I installed it at 112 degrees. I will be using a set of prototype steel adjustable cam drive gears. They have straight-cut teeth so they will be very strong. But they will be noisy. And that's what I want - a whine coming from the engine to evoke the sound of the early supercharged race engines. They also have the advantage of eliminating fore-aft cam walk as with helical gears.

The good news about this gear set is that it is infinitely adjustable.
The bad news about this gear set is that it is infinitely adjustable.

When I received it there were no timing marks on the gears. I thought it was an oversight. So I thought - no problem, I'll just overlay a stock gear, align the keyways, and mark where the timing mark should be.

After locating true TDC I had a heck of a time trying to get the timing to come in correctly by changing the various holes in the cam hub. It was way off in one direction, then would be way off in the other direction.
Until I had that "AHAA!" moment and realized why there were no timing marks. The cam gear can be clocked to any tooth that will bring the timing in to where you want it. So I set the cam on the .050" lift point and left it there. I removed the outer ring of the cam gear (without disturbing the dial indicator) and clocked it around until I found a tooth that exactly aligned with the tooth in the crank gear, which I had rotated into the proper degree setting on the degree wheel. Since the gears are straight cut it just slipped back on the cam hub without moving either the cam or crank. Then I double checked using the exhaust lobe figures.
Clever design
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Its probably a good time to point out a couple helpful tools I made to make this job easier - lifter movement rod and an adjustable TDC stop. The rod is just a piece of 3/8 pushrod that has a flat plug on top to give the dial indicator a nice surface to contact. You could make a longer one for checking events with the head on. A regular 5/16" pushrod tapped for a flat head screw could work in a pinch. The blue pipe plug has a precise hole in the center to hold the rod steady in the center of the block clearance hole.
The adjustable TDC stop is self explanatory, except be sure to locate it inside of the ring lands so there is no risk of damaging the ring lands if you rotate it with too much enthusiasm. Find a flat surface - not on the side of a dome or dish.

Astute Ford six aficionados have by now noticed the 1/4" stainless steel tubing running down from the deck surface through the lifter gallery and into the oil passage below. That is where Ford engineers tapped into to get oil to the head. Since the valves are actuated by shaft mounted rocker arms (a blessing) they needed a way to oil both the rocker arms AND the shaft. Two of these oil supply tubes are used. One would have been sufficient but echoes of the old Y-block oiling issues with plugged oil passages dictated that redundancy be built into the system. Pressure-fed rockers give me the warm fuzzies.

[On my XFLO drag car I have severely restricted these passages to keep more oil in the bottom end.]

Image

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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #22 by bubba22349 » Sat Aug 11, 2018 2:18 pm

Looking good FTF! Who is making those timing sets? And thank you for showing the detail differences of the 300 cross flow engines, it seems like these would have been a great evolution of the 300 engine for use in the Ford trucks. California had labeled the 300's U flows as gross polluters, did the emissions improve Suggnificatly with the cross flow head design? :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #23 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Sat Aug 11, 2018 10:29 pm

I misplaced the contact info for the gear sets. I'll hunt it up. The block pictured was modified by me to mimic the Ford design. To insure it stayed in place I only counterbored part way into the oil gallery so there was no chance the tube could migrate down into the oil passage and leak.

Truth be told, yes, there were some daunting challenges in trying to emissionize the 300. Because of its relatively large four inch bore size it had an unfavorable surface-to-volume ratio and a large crevice volume around the ring lands. Both these things contribute to high hydrocarbon numbers. And with a relatively low compression ratio it did not lend itself to good fuel economy targets on the horizon. Raising the CR would increase NOX emissions. Add to that the block would have required stiffening (e.g., cross-bolted mains and other expensive mods) for improved knock detection. It had the lowest BMEPs (brake mean effective pressure) in the Ford family of engines, which partially explains why it was so darned reliable - it didn't make enough power to hurt anything. Yes, I sure hate to speak ill of our beloved inline six, but its time had come. A more modern base engine was needed. If I had been King-of-the-World I'd have probably tried to update it, a la the GMC twin overhead cam, four valve, powdered metal technology, variable cam timed 4.2 I-6 and spent a ton of money on the base truck engine that otherwise could have been spent on more progressive projects.

Just enjoy it for what it is - a rugged old workhorse that served the industry for decades. And try to personalize yours and make it better for you.
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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #24 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Mon Aug 20, 2018 6:51 am

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER wrote:I misplaced the contact info for the gear sets. i'll hunt it up.


The gear maker has not responded to my queries. Does anybody have Mikes current contact info?
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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #25 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Mon Aug 20, 2018 1:48 pm

A couple more details for the engine test stand.

The water pump needed an idler for the belt. I built this so I can eliminate the alternator / charging system. The dyno stand is self powered. If you would like to build a similar idler try using a '73 Ford idler assembly part # D3AH-8S617-BA. It will allow you to adjust the belt tension.

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Another item that was needed was a male outlet sleeve off the end of the header. That will mate up to the tail pipe or in this case a shop exhaust system.

Image
Image
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Post #26 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Sat Aug 25, 2018 11:32 pm

A 240 Load-a-matic distributor fits under the twin SU intake manifold. The wires will be routed around the rear of engine, up under the headers. I have two of these - one with an iron gear for flat tappet cams and one with a bronze gear for roller cams.

Image

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On the other side I found some vintage right angle phenolic plug terminals that will allow me to route the wires under the headers. Note the high placement of the exhaust ports off the deck surface.

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I have this thing for casting flash. It bothers me and I grind it off where I can, like this t-stat housing. Also, I like to resurface the sealing surfaces and note the STO temp on the housing.

Image
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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #27 by J.R. » Sun Aug 26, 2018 3:46 am

[quote="THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER"]"... I have this thing for casting flash. It bothers me and I grind it off where I can, like this t-stat housing."

Good call. This may seem minor, but I've noticed that many (not just Ford's!) water pump castings have noticeable casting flash in their inlet & outlet tracts, sufficient to cause turbulence & restriction-compromised coolant flow. Improving the flow by cleaning up the flash has helped to eliminate the overheating problems in certain vehicles and engine builds.

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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #28 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Sun Aug 26, 2018 1:12 pm

Right JR, and I've even gotten some seepage around the flash where the hose doesn't conform to the outlet surface.
Plus, flash collects dirt, created stress risers, cuts flesh, and generally looks cheap.
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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #29 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Mon Aug 27, 2018 9:08 pm

More progress today. Header on. Exhaust pipe will clear console.

Image

I'm waiting for Brown Santa to bring me spark plug wire. But until then I fitted up the intake to check for fit. It looks like it will all work. Need to run fuel lines, make gaskets, and a rudimentary throttle linkage.

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BOY, THAT IS ONE HEINOUSLY UGLY VALVE COVER. ITS GOT TO GO.
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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #30 by broncr » Tue Aug 28, 2018 9:39 am

I imagine I'm not alone in saying I'd suffer through the oil pan to have what's under it! Nice work. I really like that engine stand, too.

Big Brown is stopping by here, too :) .
'82 FSP Bronco. Just about every mod ever mentioned. ( Too much to list - or remember...)

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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #31 by sandboxer » Tue Aug 28, 2018 11:37 am

Beautiful work.

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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #32 by curts56 » Tue Aug 28, 2018 11:41 pm

Very nice!! Thanks for posting photos of your fabrication work. They are very educational.

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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #33 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Wed Aug 29, 2018 9:27 pm

Today I made spark plug wires. I used just a little less than a quarter mile of wire. Maybe I'll advance the timing a few more degrees because the spark has such a long way to travel.

Image

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Oil pressure light switch is installed. Dip stick needs calibrating.

One bad thing about this arrangement - I'll have to remove the intake manifold if I need to change distributors. That sounds like as big a pain as having to remove the EFI intake to remove the valve cover.

Getting close to fire-up.
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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #34 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Wed Aug 29, 2018 9:40 pm

I want to share a tip I discovered. Probably out of a long ago Sunday-nite-stores-closed need to fix plug wires. Ninety nine percent of the defective plug wires I've fixed had failed at the terminal juncture. Especially true with supression core wires. I came up with this method to fix them.

Use a strand of a wire brush. Break it off with needle nose pliers.

Image

bend it into a "U" shape with one leg about 3/8" long and one leg about 1/4" long with the middle section about 1/8".
Carefully insert the long end into the conductor core until the U bottoms out .

Image

Crimp the terminal end over the shorter end.

Image
That wire will never fail at the terminal end again.
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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #35 by broncr » Wed Sep 05, 2018 1:37 pm

We used to make custom plug wires for every engine rebuild. My mentor bought braided copper core RF shielded plug wire by the spool. We'd strip back ~1/2", and solder the wire to the connectors, & fold it over in a similar fashion - to make them pretty much "bomb proof". It's the same idea - taken a step further.

The man overbuilt everything , and it usually paid off in the long run. I'm still pulling around a little utility trailer he built in the 70's. I could probably haul a car on it, if it would fit. I can't seem to shake that "overbuild" mentality, even after 50 years.
'82 FSP Bronco. Just about every mod ever mentioned. ( Too much to list - or remember...)

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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #36 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Wed Sep 05, 2018 10:15 pm

FIRST FIRE - We start the engine.
Video:

[edit - I'm having trouble loading the video file.]



It started and ran. The side draft carbs need rebuilding. The exhaust sounds real mellow - LOUD, but mellow.
I only ran it at 10 DEG base timing. We will add advance next time.
Post running leakdown checks showed all cylinders leaked between 11% and 13% - except #4 where a leaking intake valve (???) showed considerably more. I think 11 - 13% is not bad considering this is a first fire up and using a standard (non file-fit) ring pack. Before I remove the head I'll make a collapsed tappet gap checker to see if the valve is hanging open, and maybe change that lifter too, just because.
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THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #37 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Sat Sep 08, 2018 10:01 pm

Last edited by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER on Sun Sep 09, 2018 7:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #38 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Sun Sep 09, 2018 7:10 pm

[edit 3 - conclusion of start-up video]
In this part you get the sound of the exhaust and the whine of the straight-cut timing gears. Love it.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152086878 ... ateposted/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZQHHJL ... e=youtu.be
Last edited by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER on Mon Sep 10, 2018 3:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #39 by woodbutcher » Mon Sep 10, 2018 11:58 am

:( That linky no good either.Have to sign in to view it.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
"People never lie so much as after a hunt,during a war,or before an election".

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THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #40 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Mon Sep 10, 2018 3:07 pm

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THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #41 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Mon Sep 10, 2018 6:10 pm

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER wrote:
THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER wrote:I misplaced the contact info for the gear sets. i'll hunt it up.


The gear maker has not responded to my queries. Does anybody have Mike's current contact info?

I'd still like to contact the maker of these straight-cut infinitely variable timing gears. His screen name was "mikenson". Does that ring a bell with any of the older forum members?
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THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #42 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Mon Sep 10, 2018 9:17 pm

I made a collapsed tappet checker and found out the #4 intake valve was hanging open. So today I made up a set of rocker shaft pedestal stand shims to raise up the rocker shaft slightly.

[edit: #4 leakdown is back down to 13% cold - same as the rest of the cyls.]

Image

I also read up on the SU carbs and now have a pretty good idea how to rebuild / calibrate / tune them.
Last edited by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER on Wed Sep 12, 2018 9:14 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #43 by MechRick » Mon Sep 10, 2018 10:04 pm

Sounds good! Can't wait to hear it with a more aggressive cam.

Glad the lazy #4 cylinder was an easy fix...Whenever I hear one cylinder bleeding off while cranking, my peril-sensitive sunglasses go opaque...
1994 F150, 4.9L/ZF 5 speed, C-Vic police driveshaft
EFI head w/mild port work, 3 angle valve job
1996 long block, stock pistons, ARP rod bolts
Stock cam, aluminum cam gear
Hedman header, full mandrel bent duals, crossover, super turbos
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=73244
Bronco II with a 2.3L swap http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=72863
1988 F250 2x4, 460 ZF 5 speed.

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THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #44 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Mon Sep 10, 2018 10:56 pm

That's what tipped me off to something amiss too mechrick. Once it fired it ran on all six, but I could tell one cylinder was amiss.
I once had an Escape with a tulipped valve that did the same thing too.

I wish I had a more agressive hydraulic cam available. With non-adjustable rockers none of my solid or roller cams will work.

Sometimes these prototype pieces don't all mesh as planned. Minor growing pains.
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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #45 by pmuller9 » Mon Sep 10, 2018 11:36 pm

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER wrote:I wish I had a more agressive hydraulic cam available. With non-adjustable rockers none of my solid or roller cams will work.


What would you like for cam specs?

Pick a couple long duration, low lift lobe profiles from here
http://www.bulletcams.com/Masters/Hlobes.htm
You will want either a CTA or CTS lobe type profile.

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Re: VINTAGE CHAMP CAR REPLICA BUILD

Post #46 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Tue Sep 11, 2018 12:48 pm

Well,I've always liked the Crane cam in my Willys that is near to their H270/318. With 1.76 intake rockers it pulls good past 5500.
But what I'd really like to do is trade off a couple of solid lifter cams I have - one new, one gently used - for a hydraulic grind to keep my investment in this mule motor as low as possible.
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