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Ticking From Bellhousing area

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StarDiero75
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Ticking From Bellhousing area

Post #1 by StarDiero75 » Sat May 26, 2018 5:38 pm

Howdy guys,

I just had a clutch job done at a shop and im starting to get a ticking noise from the bell area. It gets louder as the engine revs higher. And its kinda intermittent.

Also the TO bearing rattles a little on hills, is that normal?

This has a 3 finger and is a 200 with 3.03
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

CZLN6
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Re: Ticking From Bellhousing area

Post #2 by CZLN6 » Sat May 26, 2018 9:27 pm

Howdy Star:

IIWIYS I'd head it right back to the shop that you paid for quality work. Neither should be making any noise at all. That's my two cents, for what it's worth.

Adios, David
co-author of the Falcon Performance Handbook
http://www.falcon6handbook.com/

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bubba22349
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Re: Ticking From Bellhousing area

Post #3 by bubba22349 » Sat May 26, 2018 9:32 pm

X2 for sure! :hmmm: What did you ever do about the early engine block to 3.03 bell housing mismatch? Good luck :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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StarDiero75
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Re: Ticking From Bellhousing area

Post #4 by StarDiero75 » Sat May 26, 2018 10:38 pm

Thats what i figured too. Ill take it right back Tuesday.

So with the mismatch..... yeah about that. So my father insisted on me taking it to a shop and have them look at it before go drop a new engine in it. Well the shop believed that there shouldnt be an issue since the plate is bolted down at 4 spots and that this did work fine before. So we proceeded. In that time i lost the 67 200 i was looking at on craigslist and so i kinda had to roll with it. Now after $921 im gonna make sure they make it work now, b/c otherwise im screwed.
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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chad
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Re: Ticking From Bellhousing area

Post #5 by chad » Sun May 27, 2018 12:05 am

$921 for what? What did they actually do?

glad U posted the price, where R U located?
Big city close by = hi price (should B 200 - 500 $).
Call Better Biz Bureau, Chamber of Commerce, Att General (Consumer Protection Bureau)...
Last edited by chad on Mon May 28, 2018 1:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Ticking From Bellhousing area

Post #6 by mustang6 » Sun May 27, 2018 1:59 am

If you are still using the thin OEM spacer plate as a makeshift adapter, you will always have problems with noises, vibrations, abnormal parts wear and eventual parts breakage. I predict that within 1K miles that 1/8" plate develops metal fatigue and cracks- I'm seriously concerned for you driving it around like that but you seem determined so best of luck.
Scott

68 Mustang 200 ci, Aussie 250-2V head, Dual Headers, Comp Cams 252H, DSII w/MSD 6AL, T-5, V8 suspension.

65 Ranchero 200 ci, late 170 head, Autolite 1101, 3.03 3 speed, Maverick 8" 4 lug rear with 3.55 gears.

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StarDiero75
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Re: Ticking From Bellhousing area

Post #7 by StarDiero75 » Sun May 27, 2018 3:22 am

mustang6 wrote:If you are still using the thin OEM spacer plate as a makeshift adapter, you will always have problems with noises, vibrations, abnormal parts wear and eventual parts breakage. I predict that within 1K miles that 1/8" plate develops metal fatigue and cracks- I'm seriously concerned for you driving it around like that but you seem determined so best of luck.

I really dont want to drive it like that, but my dad screwed me into thinking it was perfectly fine.
On a side note though, i did drive it for 8k miles and the plate still has no issues. Im not saying its right, im just saying.
When i bring it back to them on tuesday ill have a conversation with them about having a plate made. I have a 2spd auto that will bolt up to it, so maybe they can use that as a reference for the small hole setup.
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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StarDiero75
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Re: Ticking From Bellhousing area

Post #8 by StarDiero75 » Sun May 27, 2018 3:23 am

chad wrote:glad U posted the price, where R U located?

Bremerton, WA. About 14 miles west of Seattle
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200, dual friction diaphram 9" Modern Driveline clutch and billet flywheel all balanced, 1985 SVO WC T5 with front shift, 1966 2.8 Ford 8", Weber 32/26 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

drag-200stang
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Re: Ticking From Bellhousing area

Post #9 by drag-200stang » Sun May 27, 2018 9:16 am

Edit
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

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wsa111
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Re: Ticking From Bellhousing area

Post #10 by wsa111 » Sun May 27, 2018 3:01 pm

You might want to pull the starter & see if the flywheel or ring gear is not hitting the starter nose.
67 mustang,C-4, with mod. 80 hd, custom 500 cfm carb with annular boosters, hooker headers, dual exh.-X pipe, flowmaster mufflers, DSII dist. MSD-6al & MSD-Blaster 8252 Coil. Engine 205" .030" over with offset ground crank & 1.65 roller rockers. 9.5 comp., Isky 262 cam.
2003 Ford Lightning daily driver. Recurving Distributors. billythedistributorman@live.com
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frozenrabbit
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Re: Ticking From Bellhousing area

Post #11 by frozenrabbit » Sun May 27, 2018 7:10 pm

Bolting back together the parts that are mismatched and failing WILL fail again.

Do you really believe this shop you took it to has any idea what they are talking about? 99% chance no one in that shop has ever done any work on or have any experience with inline sixes.

or did they just tell you what you want to hear?

It's still wrong. Having driven it 8k like that is in no way any type of longevity.

Adapter plate is still the wrong answer, and if they were willing to make an adapter, that's isn't going to be covered by that $921 dollars you just threw away. Add a couple thousand to that.

Keep looking for a motor.

$921 for what? To again bolt together the wrong parts? The way to make it right is to actually get the correct and compatible parts.

That motor certainly wasn't $921, you could have put it together yourself and been driving for a few weeks by now.

Ask that shop about the bell housing see-sawing up and down across the only 2 bolts that are thru the bell and into the block. The spacer plate is in no way strong enough to hold the bell and trans rigid to the block.

It's wrong, doesn't work, and still isn't going to work for any amount of time.

Honestly, do you think they did anything other than bolt it together the exact same way you have 8-10 times?

Are you now going to blame this shop for it not working, knowing it is parts that don't go together? Even after multiple people have given you advice and information about transmissions, clutches, and blocks.

1000% sure the collective knowledge and experience of the people on this forum far surpasses that shop.

Again you are posting the exact same issues. :bang:

The answer to every issue, noise, grind, bang, clang, tick, and shudder coming out of your setup is YOU CAN'T PUT A 9" CLUTCH ON A 8-1/2" BLOCK..............................

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