Tough Decisions

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StarDiero75
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Tough Decisions

Post #1 by StarDiero75 » Tue Jul 10, 2018 3:21 pm

Howdy guys,

So ive been given an opportunity to do 2 different things with my car and i cant decide what to do.

So on one hand, a good friend of a friend of mine who works at a Ford performance shop has a 67' 200 that is a good runner for $250, and will refund if any issues. And about a 2 hour drive away. This will bolt to the current 9" manual setup i have. And i get to jeep using the $1000 clutch job i just had. But my tranny bearings have about a year left, and will cost about $1000 to rebuild and put back in.

On the other hand, theres a 65' 200/C4 combo for sale for $400 and i get everything i need with it (ie radiator, cross member, etc) minus the column which j can get for $75 at the wrecking yard. But i might have to lengthen my driveline.
The engine and tranny are still in the car and he said i could drive it around town to see if i like it, if so we'll pull it right there. This is also a further trip about 3.5 hours 1 way.

Im also taking somewhat into consideration that i have a 2.8 Ford 8" in the rear. The automatic will like that setup.

What do yoy all think? Be brutally honest. Im leaning towards the C4 but the 67 is nice since its dual patterned so i can put either setup on it.

No i cant afford both, and im not taking into consideration that i can sell the 65' 200 from the C4 and buy the 67'. The 67' for $250 is a right now only deal
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200 and 3.03 column shift, 8" rear 2.8 (Yes I know the gearing sucks), weber 32/36, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

frozenrabbit
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Re: Tough Decisions

Post #2 by frozenrabbit » Tue Jul 10, 2018 4:11 pm

Personally I'd go with the '67 block and stay with the 3.03 manual.

Who ever quoted you $1000 for a trans rebuild seems WAY overpriced.

$75 bearing rebuild kit, if you have the mechanical skill, it's not a hard rebuild.

How do you know the bearings are going out?

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StarDiero75
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Re: Tough Decisions

Post #3 by StarDiero75 » Tue Jul 10, 2018 4:33 pm

frozenrabbit wrote:Personally I'd go with the '67 block and stay with the 3.03 manual.

Who ever quoted you $1000 for a trans rebuild seems WAY overpriced.

$75 bearing rebuild kit, if you have the mechanical skill, it's not a hard rebuild.

How do you know the bearings are going out?

The roll over noise is kinda loud so i believe them. Well i got a spare 3.03 that needs a rebuild. I can try to take that apart. I just need a new tailhousing for it as its cracked
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200 and 3.03 column shift, 8" rear 2.8 (Yes I know the gearing sucks), weber 32/36, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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StarDiero75
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Re: Tough Decisions

Post #4 by StarDiero75 » Tue Jul 10, 2018 6:18 pm

The dude with the 65' 200/C4 just csme down to $300. Should i stay with the 67'? This is difficult. I told him i was gonna check out the 67' first to see if its a turd or not, but if it is id make the drive to the 200/C4 guy.
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200 and 3.03 column shift, 8" rear 2.8 (Yes I know the gearing sucks), weber 32/36, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

bmbm40
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Re: Tough Decisions

Post #5 by bmbm40 » Tue Jul 10, 2018 9:20 pm

Just my opinion.
If the 65 200/c4 runs well I would go 300 on it after I politely offered 250 contingent of course on that test drive period. If you really want a c4. Only thing is I would verify it can accommodate the DSII distributor. Check the block casting numbers.
The 67 politely offer 150 based upon money back guarantee.
These items are not easily found but not a big market for them. You can always go higher.
66 Bronco-1970 250, NV3550, DSII, 4 turn ps, uncut, 1" bl, 2.5" sl, front disc, twin stick D 20, 30 x 9.50
NEXT- direct mount 1.08 on D8 head, power brakes, rear limited slip, 3G, electric fan, electric upgrades, custom curved DSII, header, 31" tires

New guy? Get the Falcon Performance Handbook and Ford six high performance parts from https://vintageinlines.com

Soldmy66
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Re: Tough Decisions

Post #6 by Soldmy66 » Wed Jul 11, 2018 12:30 am

Buy both.

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chad
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which type of chero do I want

Post #7 by chad » Wed Jul 11, 2018 1:12 am

yeah, I got mine zipped...
can't win thisun. :arrow:
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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B RON CO
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Re: Tough Decisions

Post #8 by B RON CO » Wed Jul 11, 2018 10:16 am

Hi, I would go with the 67 engine, unless you want to ditch the 3 speed and spend more money on the conversion to the C4.
As mentioned, take the 3 speed apart, keep everything in order, and take pictures of each part as it comes off. Rebuild kits are not expensive. You must have one good tailshaft. You may be able to fix up one of the trannys cheap or free, open it up and just use silicone to seal it. Good luck
B RON CO. Still workin' on it!

1933 Ford Pickup - 59A Flathead V8
1966 Ford Bronco - U14 - 170/200 Straight 6
1966 Ford Mustang - 289 V8

mustang6
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Re: Tough Decisions

Post #9 by mustang6 » Wed Jul 11, 2018 11:29 pm

I would also go with the 67 engine- cheaper, closer to you, and less unknowns. Unless you can drive that C4 you don't know it's condition until you totally install it and run it. There's also a lot more to go wrong you can't fix yourself with an auto than with the 3 speed manual you have now and all your clutch stuff is brand new! Even if your 3.03 goes out in a year (and I wouldn't be surprised if it runs 10 years sounding no worse than it does today) you can buy another one used for $100 or so. To rebuild a C4 will set you back $500 or more not including the R&R. Plus I have a feeling you are going to run across a cheap T5 within a year and wish your Ranchero was still manual lol.
Scott

68 Mustang 200 ci, Aussie 250-2V head, Dual Headers, Comp Cams 252H, DSII w/MSD 6AL, T-5, V8 suspension.

65 Ranchero 200 ci, late 170 head, Autolite 1101, 3.03 3 speed, Maverick 8" 4 lug rear with 3.55 gears.

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StarDiero75
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Re: Tough Decisions

Post #10 by StarDiero75 » Thu Jul 12, 2018 3:23 am

mustang6 wrote:I would also go with the 67 engine- cheaper, closer to you, and less unknowns. Unless you can drive that C4 you don't know it's condition until you totally install it and run it. There's also a lot more to go wrong you can't fix yourself with an auto than with the 3 speed manual you have now and all your clutch stuff is brand new! Even if your 3.03 goes out in a year (and I wouldn't be surprised if it runs 10 years sounding no worse than it does today) you can buy another one used for $100 or so. To rebuild a C4 will set you back $500 or more not including the R&R. Plus I have a feeling you are going to run across a cheap T5 within a year and wish your Ranchero was still manual lol.

I have actually decided to do the 67'. I really like that it has rhe dual pattern, so i have a range of options, not just 9" stuff but 8.5" too.
I would get to drive around with ththe C4. Its still in the car and id get to help tye guy pull it. But thats not important now.

I do hope to find a T5. I just dont have the money nor equipment to do the swap correctly. I would really like to put that in though, thats my final goal. Then do 4.11 or 3.8 gears in the rear (depending on what OD is)
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200 and 3.03 column shift, 8" rear 2.8 (Yes I know the gearing sucks), weber 32/36, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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chad
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nice score

Post #11 by chad » Thu Jul 12, 2018 8:49 am

"... decided...the 67'...."
good! Enjoy!
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

ags290
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Re: Tough Decisions

Post #12 by ags290 » Thu Jul 12, 2018 11:00 am

I really do think you are making a wise choice. Good Luck with the install!
Kevin
Early 1965 Mustang with a 170

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StarDiero75
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Re: Tough Decisions

Post #13 by StarDiero75 » Fri Jul 13, 2018 3:27 am

So i got it today. Its a little rougher than i had hoped or planned. I sprayed a good amount of WD-40 on the cylinder walls from the spark plug holes. I let it sit for a minute, then i put my ratchet on the front with my trusty metal pipe and turned jt over. Only about 10-15°, just to make sure it wasnt seized. It was difficult, but it wasnt unbearable so i suppose thats good. Im gonna swap in my new oil pump from my 65' 200 and spin it up for about 5-10 mins to get it all lubed. Ill also be using my 68' manifold off of the 65'. Those bolts came out very easily, and weren't very tight. That might explain why it always sounded a little loud at idle.

But first im getting it all cleaned and ready for the engine bay.

Wish me luck guys.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/HVj3TJcV2LNVgQfd6

(Yes the engine is actually a 66', not a 67', but the block is still dual drilled, yay!!! The head is also a 66' but I'll eventually get a 78'+ for it so it can really howl lol)
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200 and 3.03 column shift, 8" rear 2.8 (Yes I know the gearing sucks), weber 32/36, CRT Performance HEI.
--1961 Studebaker Lark VI, OHV 170 l6 in the process of being resurrected. But it lives
--Creator of the only Weber 32/36 conversion video.

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