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EDIS-6, how does/did you attach your 36-1

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sdiesel
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EDIS-6, how does/did you attach your 36-1

Post #1 by sdiesel » Sat Apr 13, 2019 1:18 am

crank shaft wheel?
my 36-1 wheel is a stamped steel piece from mega jolt.
I conjured all kind of ideas, the best being a sleeve that fits inside the damper well, and is welded to the trigger wheel.
bore and thread the end of the crank bolt, for a stud to hold the trigger wheel tight to the damper face.
the whole idea is clumsy, and inept.
I need input.
my trigger wheel has 6 slots in it, which, of course do not line up with the puller threaded holes.
otherwise, simple fix if they did.
but noooo.

follow on question.
did anyone determine if the cam sensor from a different ford will fit, I recall a discussion.
the immediate thing is modify the ds ii dist. but it's not tight.
somewhere I heard a 351 cam signal assy, fits the 300, with a longer pump drive shaft ...

I'm gonna go a-searchin, but it's a slow nite on the board and a topic worthy of discussion afresh
a long love affair with the 300 six.
my lastest and final fling is a fresh 300 in an 88 ford f350 dually 4X flatbed

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Re: EDIS-6, how does/did you attach your 36-1

Post #2 by sdiesel » Sat Apr 13, 2019 2:12 am

with just a touch of uncustomary creativity, I looked up 36 tooth sprokets, and of course there were myriad choices.
seems the best guess is a mini bIke or gas powered bicycle drive sprokets in steel.

shave one tooth, and many of these sprokets have multiple holes in them to account for the different applications.
at very least they are not slotted, so in theory, were I competant enough in measurement, I could line up and bore holes with the puller holes in the balancer, and be done with the issue.
a long love affair with the 300 six.
my lastest and final fling is a fresh 300 in an 88 ford f350 dually 4X flatbed

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Re: EDIS-6, how does/did you attach your 36-1

Post #3 by BigBlue94 » Sat Apr 13, 2019 9:30 am

My first thought were the threaded holes in the balancer. Are those the puller holes you speak of?

You could make a spacer with holes for the balancer holes and offset holes for the sprocket. Kinda like a wheel spacer has.

Or find one that has no holes and drill your own.
1985 Bronco. 309ci I6, NP435, 4.56 gears, Detroit locker and tru-trac, 4" lift, and 37" swamper tires. The 309 is 9.75:1 CR with a Schneider 140H cam, 4bbl, roller rockers, larger valves, and headers.

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Re: EDIS-6, how does/did you attach your 36-1

Post #4 by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Sat Apr 13, 2019 9:43 am

BigBlue94 wrote:My first thought were the threaded holes in the balancer. Are those the puller holes you speak of?


That is what I have done on a drag car for ancillary drive on my SFI harmonic balancer.
FORD 300 INLINE SIX - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING

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Re: EDIS-6, how does/did you attach your 36-1

Post #5 by sdiesel » Sat Apr 13, 2019 2:24 pm

Puller holes:yes 3threaded 5/16 holes for the puller to get a grip. Getting the blooming Trigger wheel exactly centered is a not so simple task. At least for me.
I suppose I could use socket head bolts and nuts in 3of the slots and jigger the wheel till it measures evenly.
the socket head of the sliding bolt inside the damper well should hold it centered at 3 points and I move them along the slots untill the wheel sits exactly centered.
Flip it over and with centering punch mark my bore through the puller holes.
Is that amateur to hear good result?
Further there is not much metal on the wheel where those bolts would hit...

Question. Is it a bad idea to use self tapping screws and attach the wheel
To the outer ring?
a long love affair with the 300 six.
my lastest and final fling is a fresh 300 in an 88 ford f350 dually 4X flatbed

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Re: EDIS-6, how does/did you attach your 36-1

Post #6 by bubba22349 » Sat Apr 13, 2019 2:59 pm

sdiesel wrote: Question. Is it a bad idea to use self tapping screws and attach the wheel
To the outer ring?


Yes it would be a bad idea, since to goal of going to a crank triggered ignistion wheel is to have more accurate ignistion timing events, mounting it to the outer rubber mounted ring would allow movement of its timing point. The best would be to mount to hub that solidly mounted to the crankshaft. Good luck :thumbup: :nod:
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

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Re: EDIS-6, how does/did you attach your 36-1

Post #7 by CNC-Dude » Sat Apr 13, 2019 3:25 pm

Most people mount them on the backside of the damper on the OD of the seal surface. You may need to chuck it in a lathe to extend the machined surface past the outside area between the timing cover and rear of damper/balancer. A snug press fit is all that's needed, and since it's on the rear of the balancer, it's out of the way of belts and pulleys and conceals nicely. I've done several for people on the forums.
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Re: EDIS-6, how does/did you attach your 36-1

Post #8 by sdiesel » Wed Apr 24, 2019 10:54 am

CNC-Dude wrote:Most people mount them on the backside of the damper on the OD of the seal surface. You may need to chuck it in a lathe to extend the machined surface past the outside area between the timing cover and rear of damper/balancer. A snug press fit is all that's needed, and since it's on the rear of the balancer, it's out of the way of belts and pulleys and conceals nicely. I've done several for people on the forums.



well, I would sure be pleased if u were to build a damper with trigger ring for this project, if u were so inclined....
a long love affair with the 300 six.
my lastest and final fling is a fresh 300 in an 88 ford f350 dually 4X flatbed

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Re: EDIS-6, how does/did you attach your 36-1

Post #9 by xctasy » Wed Apr 24, 2019 8:00 pm

Despite claims to the contrary, the last MAF and EECV 4.9's still had a dual synchro TFi unit which can be used as a MS2/ver 3.0 plug in. Sequential injection doesn't need a 36-1 cps if the car has a TFi or Duraspark II.

MegaJolt is just an open source kind of EDIS6 control unit, and as long as the harmonic balancer is not a 28 or 50 ounce 5.0, but a neutrally balanced item like the internally balanced base kit has, you can use the same balancer Mike1157 used .

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=75514&p=587195#p587195

https://s1373.photobucket.com/user/mike ... 9.jpg.html


the same guy used this kit.

Pmuller9 has acurately described how TFi Dual Sychronisation works in a recent post.
Ford made the Duraspark from 1980 to 1984 in the 5.0 CFi a TFi work-a-like. EDIS6 then only needs three other lines of executable code to function. TFi, it has a special EECIII line of crank position determination.

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Re: EDIS-6, how does/did you attach your 36-1

Post #10 by xctasy » Wed Apr 24, 2019 9:30 pm

the sameguy outsourced his balancer to an excellent Texas machinist.

viewtopic.php?f=98&t=67718

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XEC Ltd ICBE's Inter Continental Ballistic Engines-
FAZER 6Bi (M112 & EEC5) or FAZER 6Ti (GT3582 & EEC5) 425 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
FAZER 6V0 3x2-BBL Holley 188 HP 3.3L/200 I-6 or 235 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
X-Flow Engine Components Ltd http://www.xecltd.info/?rd=10

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Re: EDIS-6, how does/did you attach your 36-1

Post #11 by xctasy » Thu Apr 25, 2019 9:57 pm

Before Falcon Fanatic put in his MegaSquirt 5.0 he used this sensor on his balancer

http://falconfanatic.blogspot.com/?m=0
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XEC Ltd ICBE's Inter Continental Ballistic Engines-
FAZER 6Bi (M112 & EEC5) or FAZER 6Ti (GT3582 & EEC5) 425 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
FAZER 6V0 3x2-BBL Holley 188 HP 3.3L/200 I-6 or 235 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
X-Flow Engine Components Ltd http://www.xecltd.info/?rd=10

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