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Valve Cover Studs Part #. FYI

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65coupei6
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Valve Cover Studs Part #. FYI

Post #1 by 65coupei6 » Sun Jun 09, 2019 11:52 am

I decided to use studs for my valve cover. Here are some options:

1. Stainless studs from Ebay around $7
2. Home Improvement Store Stainless Allthread cut
to length yourself. Plus washers and nuts around $12.
3. ARP 200-7601 SB Chevy (stamp steel cover/aluminum cover needs longer studs) around $21.

I went with the ARP. They look nicer and the bull nose ends makes it easier to put on the nuts.

The studs makes it way easier to install the gasket. No more adhesive on the valve cover side.
...Marco

'65 Mustang Inline 200. VI (CI) Aluminum Head, Holley 350, Schneider 264/274 cam,
Headers, DSII, MSD 6A, and a whole lotta other stuff!

Build That Six With Parts From VintageInlines.com

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Re: Valve Cover Studs Part #. FYI

Post #2 by DoctorC » Mon Jun 10, 2019 2:15 am

Pics or it didnt happen! :D 8)
1967 Cherry Red Mustang
All stockWeber 32/36, MSD 6AL+MSD Coil, Duraspark 2 dizzy :beer:

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65coupei6
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Re: Valve Cover Studs Part #. FYI

Post #3 by 65coupei6 » Mon Jun 10, 2019 10:16 am

IMG_20190610_070859.jpg
IMG_20190610_070917.jpg
IMG_20190610_070821.jpg


It really happened. ;)
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...Marco

'65 Mustang Inline 200. VI (CI) Aluminum Head, Holley 350, Schneider 264/274 cam,
Headers, DSII, MSD 6A, and a whole lotta other stuff!

Build That Six With Parts From VintageInlines.com

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Re: Valve Cover Studs Part #. FYI

Post #4 by StarDiero75 » Mon Jun 10, 2019 2:51 pm

I kinda like the idea of studs too, it makes putting it on much easier.

As a side note, I noticed your air cleaner. I was watching an episode of Engine Masters and they tested different air cleaners to see which kills the most power, Yours is pretty good, but they actually killed less power by taping off the side and leaving the top open. I'd post a link here but they don't post hardly on YouTube anymore. Its called Air Filter Horsepower Shootout. These tests were done on a big block chevy making 750hp though so it might have no relevance to you.

I just thought that was interesting.
--1965 Ranchero w/1966 200 and 3.03 column shift, 8" rear 2.8 (Yes I know the gearing sucks), 1968 1.08 Autolite 2100 with VI adapter, CRT Performance HEI.
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Re: Valve Cover Studs Part #. FYI

Post #5 by Matthew68 » Tue Jun 11, 2019 10:33 pm

Nice. I picked up a set on eBay a few months back. Will also be using studs for the oil pan. Figured why not, can only help.
1968 Mustang Coupe 200ci - Pertronix + Coil
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Re: Valve Cover Studs Part #. FYI

Post #6 by JackFish » Thu Jun 13, 2019 10:54 pm

1978 Ford Fairmont station wagon
1978 Ford Fairmont station wagon
Yup, I bought another one.
1996 Chevy Caprice 9C1 (3)
1999 Dodge Ram 2500

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Econoline
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Re: Valve Cover Studs Part #. FYI

Post #7 by Econoline » Thu Jun 13, 2019 11:10 pm

I don't like the nylocks in that Moroso set. A serrated flange nut would be better. You need to be able to spin them on and off. Nylocks are a pita, wrench on wrench off and they don't hold up. They're supposed to be replaced every time technically. And they'll pull the stud out b/c they never let go until they're almost off. Lock washers with washers would also be a pita, but a better choice imo. Unless you're worried about digging into the valve cover you don't need washers either with flange nuts. It's like killing three birds with one stone.
It ain't gonna fix itself

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Valve Cover Studs Part #. FYI

Post #8 by chad » Fri Jun 14, 2019 7:56 am

U could use the "...serrated flange nut ..."with those support tabs that spread out the force (keep the vc from bending).
They would dig into the tab rather than the vc paint?
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Valve Cover Studs Part #. FYI

Post #9 by JackFish » Fri Jun 14, 2019 8:44 pm

I like that idea, where do you get those tab things?

I had my valve cover powder coated and would like to keep it clean.
I think the idea with the nylocks is that they will maintain their torque.
And with the low torque on those I don't think taking them on and off would be that much of an issue.
I passed on using them on my control arms though... :wink:
1978 Ford Fairmont station wagon
1978 Ford Fairmont station wagon
Yup, I bought another one.
1996 Chevy Caprice 9C1 (3)
1999 Dodge Ram 2500

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Econoline
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Re: Valve Cover Studs Part #. FYI

Post #10 by Econoline » Fri Jun 14, 2019 11:26 pm

Just use washers with w/ the serrated flange nuts to protect the valve cover. If you're rarely ever going to take it off, you don't need studs. They're both locknuts and both will maintain the torque. Using a washer won't change that much, if at all. You could probably get away with nylon washers if you wanted. They use the same thing with high amperage fuses, like anl fuses, to protect the fuse ends from getting twisted when they are torqued down, w/ stainless or copper washers of course. I like having the gasket stuck to the valve cover w/ gasgacinch if it's cork. But Ford was brilliant in stamping in those cuts that hold the gasket for you though, cork or rubber.
It ain't gonna fix itself

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Hold Down Tabs

Post #11 by chad » Sat Jun 15, 2019 9:11 am

Last edited by chad on Sun Jun 16, 2019 5:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Big thing is only make one change at a time. Change 2 or more things at a time it becomes difficult to figure which change helped or hurt" turbo2256b » 1/16/2017
Chad - '70 LUEB on '77 frame (i.e. PS, D44, trapezoidal BB 9", 4.11), 250, NV 3550 & DSII to B transplanted, "T" D20/PTO, 2" SL, 1" BL, 4 discs, 33"X15", tool boxes, etc. Seeking: Hydraulic gear motor for Koenig pto. chrlsful@aol.com (413) 259-1749

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Re: Valve Cover Studs Part #. FYI

Post #12 by 65coupei6 » Sun Jun 16, 2019 10:12 am

I also do not use lock washers on the valve cover.

The reason I went to studs is because I hate cleaning the adhesive from the bottom of the valve cover. I have been switching between my current Powered By Ford cover with wrinkle finish, a reproduction plain black one, the CI Aluminum, and finally a chrome Powered By Ford cover that I used to use back in the day.

The tabs do work to spread out the load. None of them fit the CI/VI Aluminum cover well. The triangle ones posted will fit if you shave the tops. But, I do not torque the nuts down very much. So, I do not use them. I only use cork gaskets now and have no leaking problems.

BTW, I changed the look again.
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...Marco

'65 Mustang Inline 200. VI (CI) Aluminum Head, Holley 350, Schneider 264/274 cam,
Headers, DSII, MSD 6A, and a whole lotta other stuff!

Build That Six With Parts From VintageInlines.com

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Re: Valve Cover Studs Part #. FYI

Post #13 by 65coupei6 » Sun Jun 16, 2019 10:23 am

Oh. As a side note. All these valve covers have a slightly different height and shape.

The CI/VI cover is a little more square at the top. My current setup above would not clear the cover.(Plus, no baffles built in and may need two gaskets depending on rockers and other factors. Unless the new one have been fixed?)

The aftermarket chrome/black ones found on eBay are also shaped like the CI/VI cover but have baffles. (I have found two versions so far. Some chrome ones are made cheaply and do not seal well. Others are great. I guess they are made by two different companies but there are no markings to identify them)

The original covers have a slight slant to the top and have baffles. That is why my current setup fits. (BUT, you might have a different experience. Since everyone is running different carbs/efi. They all have slightly different heights. So the air cleaners will sit differently.)

Sorry, this post has gone off topic.
...Marco

'65 Mustang Inline 200. VI (CI) Aluminum Head, Holley 350, Schneider 264/274 cam,
Headers, DSII, MSD 6A, and a whole lotta other stuff!

Build That Six With Parts From VintageInlines.com

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