170 question

[CometDad]

Hey all, I've been searching around for answers on the cam and lifter situation for this 170 we have. From what I can tell it's a 63 engine which if I'm reading right it should have solid lifters, correct? It has adjustable rockers. The code on the side of the engine is C3DE. We went through setting lash and 2 of the rockers compressed on the lifter side when pushed as if they were hydraulic. If solid is what I need, do you have a recommended vendor? Having trouble finding a solid lifter cam and lifter set for this.

Thanks

Drew

 

[bubba22349]

Hi Drew, actually in the 1963 Ford Small Six Engines mostly had the Hydraulic Lifter Camshafts it was first year for them, this wasn't done completely across all the Small Six models that year though. The Econoline's and Ranchero's were some that kept the Solid Lifter Camshafts longer. So having the Adjustable Rocker Arms won't always mean it has a Solid Lifter Camshaft either, Ford carried those Adjustable Rocker Arms forward to the Hydraulic Lifter engine's too. Sound's to me like you probably have a Hydraulic Lifter Camshaft. Good luck

​

 

[powerband]

"Sound's to me like you probably have a Hydraulic Lifter Camshaft."

second that ...

the OEM 170 in my '63 Wagon was hydraulic lifters and adjustable rockers.



4 main fury' ...

. .


wagon now has C8DE 170 from a 71 Maverick to enable simple install of overdrive T5 tranny on 3.03 3Spd bellhouse with plate.)

hav e fun

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, if the engine is a hydraulic lifter block you can pick either a solid lifter or hydraulic lifter replacement cam and lifter set. I used the original adjustable rocker shaft assembly on my engine with a hydraulic replacement cam and it is working out great.
What kind of plans do you have for the car?
If you are asking for cam recommendations there are plenty of options.
Good luck

 

[frozenrabbit]

I have hydraulic lifters with adjustable rockers on my stock '63 170. 1963 Falcon Shop Manual supplement shows hydraulic with adjustable rockers.
The manual states adjusting the rockers with the lifters compressed, 0.067-0.200" at valve stem.

 

[CometDad]

Thanks for the replies. Problem we are having is only two of the lifter bores have the sponge of a hydraulic lifter. The rest have no movement. Unless I just have two weak and the rest are really primed.

As for plans, we have talked a couple different COAs.

1. Remove the 6 and put a 302 in there. That is what I did with my 60

2. Remove the 170, find a 200 and turbo it

3. Leave the 170 and put a small ecoboost turbo on it to just give it a little more bump

4. Remove the 6 and put a newer mustang 4 cylinder ecoboost in with the 10 speed auto.

First things though...this dad is done paying for parts and he needs a job. I've got my own ride to play with.

 

[78_200_C4]

Adjust the lifters at operating temperature with the engine running at a very slow idle You say you were adjusting the lash which would be for solid lifters. Hydraulic lifters can be set to tap. You can loosen them until they tap then tighten them a 1/4 or 1/2 turn. If they are not tight enough they will tap when cold. If you have 2 bad lifters pull the head and replace all of them or live with what ever problem they cause. Hydraulic lifters should not be spongy. 2 spongy lifters doesn't mean the others are solid lifters. A shop that only follows customer diagnosis will not stay in business long.

 

[CometDad]

We were going off other information that we found out there that led us to believe that 63 engines were in that same grouping as the earlier being solid. Likely I have 2 lazy lifters. I thought that whoever had the engine in the past may have put the two hyd in the line up based off info and the feel.

Now that I know that 63 was hyd with adjustable rockers, we've adjusted them the right way and things are working better and moving on to the next issue.

There's no shop involved in this equation..not sure why you mentioned that.

 

[bmbm40]

Thanks for the replies. Problem we are having is only two of the lifter bores have the sponge of a hydraulic lifter. The rest have no movement. Unless I just have two weak and the rest are really primed.

As for plans, we have talked a couple different COAs.

1. Remove the 6 and put a 302 in there. That is what I did with my 60

2. Remove the 170, find a 200 and turbo it

3. Leave the 170 and put a small ecoboost turbo on it to just give it a little more bump

4. Remove the 6 and put a newer mustang 4 cylinder ecoboost in with the 10 speed auto.

First things though...this dad is done paying for parts and he needs a job. I've got my own ride to play with.

I think these options may include component variations of different trans, driveline, rear axle, front suspension, larger radiator, brakes, motor mounts, trans mounts, wheels, tires and some other stuff.

 

[chad]

"...moving on to the next issue. ..."
might B the '63... the '65 is when the dizzy hole, bottom of block,
grew to a size for ignition up-grades.

With the 1 - 4 listed, I'm not sure where you're going.
What do you want to do? What is the vehicle/engine's application?

 

[CometDad]

I think these options may include component variations of different trans, driveline, rear axle, front suspension, larger radiator, brakes, motor mounts, trans mounts, wheels, tires and some other stuff.

Yes, all of those things are being condsidered with each COA. These are just options that were discussed as we try to figure what he wants to do with the car. Right now it seems as though he wants to do a 347 stroker in there. So out with the six and in with the 8

 

[CometDad]

"...moving on to the next issue. ..."
might B the '63... the '65 is when the dizzy hole, bottom of block,
grew to a size for ignition up-grades.

With the 1 - 4 listed, I'm not sure where you're going.
What do you want to do? What is the vehicle/engine's application?

The 1 - 4 listed were just the options that we discussed as ideas he has for the car. Everything is tentative and based off of him getting a job. He has the 63 170 in there now that he will be running until he gets money to build the car the way he wants. Right now, I think he has determined that he wants to do a 347 Stroker in it. So now he is getting his price list together for everything that has to be done and applying for jobs

 

[78_200_C4]

There's no shop involved in this equation..not sure why you mentioned that.

It means that if your or a customer's diagnosis was wrong the answers and costly repairs would also be wrong.

 

[Frank]

Installing a 3-point shoulder/lap belt is "a must" when a loved one is the primary driver. It's not a hard mod or expensive, did it recently in a '59 car. The floor part, drill and bolt, our door posts required fabbing a 3/16" steel plate for adequate load-spread. The Comet post may be strong enough as is. Well worth the peace of mind. Not worth risking my wife (or your son) eating that rock-hard steering wheel from someone's split-second mistake.

(get their installation kits, sold separately. has everything needed for secure, pro install)

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[chad]

yeah, the bronk? real death trap - even @ one of the highest resale points (havent followed since #1 in winter 2020. That spring cherokee took over #1, bronk fell to 23rd). Wont work.
Ck the "B" pillar. In early models ('66, 7, 8) that window frame even pulls out for the smooth look when goin topless (last 9 yrs just spot welded in). The wing window even drops out. (then windshield folds, but nother story & means no "A" pillar either, even when 'up'). So really, ina roll or other - the whole top collapses to bedrail hight. Some today havea roll bar for on-rd safety. Fools dont frame tie it tho. Double trouble as when on loan or other, driver has false courage - I've seen um stick out the floor boards hi over an upside dwn rig, the bar @ bed level just from a cruze.
-AND- if off roading'n ina flip - even worse as a guy will take the challenge, try some rough stuff and get the same. Cure? no bronks /or/ a frame tied bar/cage. So my usual short story inta long-
The bar is the only way to get a 3 pointer ina bronk (I can think of). '60/70s "B" pillars? I dont trust them (open up put ina rod?). After mrkt belts? only w/a dot sticker (like a helmet, etc). Not what I need but a good place to begin research (C the .pdf):
DOT HS 812 925
dot_56176_DS1.pdf

'Safety 1st' (& middle, last) in shop or on rd'n trails. "We only got one body", Cuz Shelly, 12 y/o, 1964.