Bad exhaust manifold?

[Sedanman]

Continued from the thread at viewtopic.php?f=1&t=58407

I don't want to put headers on the car (too low, pricey) but also don't have time for scrounging for another manifold. Can this be "fixed" by cutting out the burnt out heat tube, and welding the holes on either end shut, or does that tube effect exhaust flow as well?

I'm putting a Pony Carbs 1101 on my '69 200 head and will have to use a manual choke anyway due to some configuration issues...

Link to image two posts down...

 

['68falconohio]

Don't know about the picture bit, but I have an extra exhaust manifold if you go that route. PM me and I'll look it over for cracks. It's at my parents' house, which I'll be at this wkend.

 

[Sedanman]

Here it is http://www.flickr.com/photos/sedanman/3819141153/

Falconohio - thanks. I need to check to see what kind of outlet it has so I don't have to have my exhaust changed for a third time.

 

[ludwig]

Typical. Don't be disturbed. I tapped the top and bottom holes and put in screws to plug the hole. Choke can be handled with an electric choke, a manual choke or an aftermarket heat stove and tube to the choke pulloff.
LIke this:

I got the little collector and tube at a speed shop. You can clamp it on the stock manifold. That's what I did until I got my headers.

 

[Sedanman]

Thanks, ludwig. I want to keep the look as clean as possible (re-routing my wiring to the fenderwells and such) so will probably stay with the manual setup. Heck, I haven't had a working choke for 4 years so I'm not too worried about that. But the blown out tube - should I leave it there, or is it restricting flow? I think my old 170 manifold had nothing in the center port...

My 1101 is set up to have a heater hose attached to the choke housing going sideways across the engine compartment (same position as yours, but mine has a hose bracket) - too fussy looking for me. I've already re-routed my heater hoses over the passenger side shock tower to keep them out of the way.

 

[JackFish]

Are you asking if this is fixable? I doubt it.
I'd be looking for a replacement.

 

[ludwig]

That burnt center divider isn't worth worrying about. If you are concerned that the mushrooming takes up space, look at the size of the neighbor ports. That siamesed port is like twice as big. But you could pinch the flaps off with a pliers if you like. That heater hose across the back of the choke pulloff is to keep it warm while running. You really don't need it. Here in SoCal I really don't even need a choke most of the time. I disconnected the heater hoses to the warming carb plate and rerouted them to the fender as well. You can see them in the photo.

Plug the holes. Debride the center of the port. Button it up and go for a ride. All good.

Note: Cast iron exhaust manifolds as old as that get brittle and punky. DO NOT DROP IT. I broke my original that way and had to get a salvage replacement. Both of them were warped when I removed them from the block. That is to say, when they were unbolted, the mating surface was not straight. It was curved outward as you looked across the exhaust port flanges. When you reinstall, bolt up the center first. Then SLOWLY work your way toward both ends one bolt at at time so you don't snap anything off, like a bolt flange or part of the manifold collector itself.

 

[Sedanman]

Jack - I don't play to try and fix the choke tube, just wondering if it's okay to cut it out before plugging up the holes. If I put a port divider in, the manifold is not going to bolt down flat in the center as the burnt tube has really expanded.

Ludwig - same as I said to Jack about the port divider. Thanks for reminder about dropping - it did that once with another one. My plan is to have the mating surface of this manifold checked and re-surfaced if needed.

So the remaining question is, is it safe to try and cut out that tube?