All Small Six Beginner question about 144

[JoeCrozier]

Hello! Second post on here (after my introduction post).

So I got a 1961 144 for the low-low price of free about a week ago. It was lying in the dirt outside and about to be taken to the scrap pile. I'm a total beginner to Ford six's, my only experience with engines at all was when I rebuilt a Honda motorcycle engine about a decade ago. For the last week I've just spent my time cleaning the mud off, removing exterior pieces like the carburetor etc... so that I can see what I'm dealing with.

Well, I finally got to the first thing that made me think to myself "that doesn't seem right". Let me explain:

(let me know if those links dont work, I'll figure something else out)
What it looked like when I got it into my garage:

https://imgur.com/kdsWbHV

What it looked like with stuff taken off and cleaned up:

https://imgur.com/OpNzz1V

Now the problem:

This main pulley (crankshaft right?) seems bent out of place, I thought at first looking at it that it might be warped, but holding a straight edge against it luckily it doesn't seem warped:

https://imgur.com/PMBhO1j

That said, it is smashed right up against the rest of the engine, I can't even slide a piece of paper between it and the engine, that doesn't seem right:

https://imgur.com/2g2MaXJ

My gut reaction is to take it off and see what I'm dealing with, which brings me to my next question: HOW? Is it just the bolt pictured right in the center of it? Normal lefty-loosey? I gave it a brief tug but it didnt start loosening and I didnt want to break it. (have torn 3 other bolts already)

https://imgur.com/yhzJLqE

Lastly, I'd imagine that pulley could spin right? Well it doesn't at all. The transmission is currently on, that wouldn't prevent it would it? Does that mean its 'frozen'? Should I just try to spin it harder? Am I totally headed the wrong direction?

 

[moral3z25]

Hello JoeCrozier,
I too have a 144, its currently installed in a '61 falcon 4dr sedan. Ive done a bunch of upgrades to it if you want to check out my other posts.

From the second picture the pulley does look bent on the inside ( side thats touching the engine). When I bought mine, the previous owner had swapped a larger (V8) radiator in there and the stock fan didnt work so he swapped in a different one, long story short the fan would hit the pulley and bent it on mine. I had to get a new one. I opt to get a slightly different one then the one that you have on the picture ( I had that one too). I got one where you can add an additional pulley. I needed it to be double because I upgraded the stock generator ( 40 amps or so) to a ford 3g alternator out of a 96 Taurus (130 amps). If you dont have a double pulley for that 3g alternator, the belt slips.

You can try and see if the motor will turn over. I would first make sure the transmission is in neutral and take out the spark plugs to make it easier to turn. Some sort of penetrant like PB blaster goes along way. Even after this you still might not be able to turn it over is the pulley is making contact with the engine. To get the pulley off you need a puller.

Good news is that parts for this engine are cheap as far as the timing set, gaskets, water pump( i think i paid like 20 bucks for mine) etc. The bad news is that there isnt really that many options ( I only know of one, DUI ) for distributors. This is important because of the way that the stock distributor picks up one of its signals (cant remember if its low rpm or high rpm). I had first swapped in electronic ignition ( isnt too expensive) and its better over stock for sure, you have to keep your stock carburetor ( the distributor is connected to the carb) . This allows you to open the gap on your plugs from stock 0.035" to 0.040". I thought it made a difference.

 

[chad]

That's GREAT, pic. Also 'a stand".
Not sure your future intentions but some geta official stand as they wanna work on the motor.

https://www.amazon.com/JEGS-80064-Engine-Cradle-Wheels/dp/B078WHPXVT/ref=asc_df_B078WHPXVT/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312158556601&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3516450138875987661&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001635&hvtargid=pla-568875599502&psc=1

I hate amizone & never buy frm them but direct frm Jeggs or Harbor freight. Many get

VEVOR Engine Stand, 750 lbs (3/8 Ton) Rotating Engine Motor Stand with 360 Degree Adjustable Head, Cast Iron Motor Hoist Dolly, 4-Caster, 4 Adjustable Arms, for Vehicle Maintenance, Auto Repair | VEVOR US

Discover VEVOR Engine Stand, 750 lbs (3/8 Ton) Rotating Engine Motor Stand with 360 Degree Adjustable Head, Cast Iron Motor Hoist Dolly, 4-Caster, 4 Adjustable Arms, for Vehicle Maintenance, Auto Repair, 750 LBS Capacity & H-shaped Base and Heavy-duty Material at lowest price, 2days delivery...

www.vevor.com

the reason i drop in the 1st 'stand' link is it's one/U can run the engine on it as transitioning back to the car/truck.

Any way, now is the time to ID all the components (including block... some would paint, too early 4 me) . After 50, 60 yrs 1 of many owners may have changed out stuff (head, carb, etc). Nice aid:

The Ford Falcon SIX Cylinder PERFORMANCE HANDBOOK | Vintage Inlines

The Ford Falcon SIX Cylinder Performance Handbook has 107 pages of History, Facts, and Information to help you get more power out of your small Ford SIX. This engine was used in Falcons, Mustangs, Fairlaines, and Comets in the 60’s. It was the FoMoCo workhorse in Mavericks, Granadas, and...

www.vintageinlines.com

While waiting for delivery, free:

Classic Inlines

(@ blue horizontal line top of this page)
After an ID, I'd try some gentile ways of getting to run (I want some immediate satisfaction 4 all my wrk hereto-for). Decisions on: how much U will take on, what you will pay others for, new tool selection and budget might B next. Some (under tools) might seek out a shop (or lesser Chiton's or Haynes manual - for tq specs, exploded view of components for disassembly/assembly, & general 'right in my shop' assistance). I cant see inside solid metal to understand how som prts are 'locked together'.

Your 'all over cleaning' idea was also a good'un. U can C the casting numbers now for head/block ID. U might also see the part ur concerned abt hasa rubber insert between it's 2 metal 'inside' and 'outside'. Disassembly here would B done ina way NOT to destroy that rubber bond. My thought is it might B destroyed now'n this is Y it seems to B crooked. Light prying around the parameter Might show this true. It is hard to imagine (4 me) a brute force mechanic getting that dampener on crooked (perhaps a frnt end collision to a good 'balancer'?). So the rubber could B damaged. Diagnosis would assist. A 2nd point when addressing balancer/dampener is the separate bolt and 'pulley' itself. Yes the center bolt comes out, counter clock-wise turn, but the item itself will most likely stay on. As I remember that is a friction/interference fit, nota key way and key. A puller can B used as 1 removal method but must B placed on 'inner' metal edge rather than 'easy' outer surface (remember rubber?) If diagnosis proved rubber is good. I've never seen a crank snout (the internal/external prt the dampener is on) bent ina accident but learn new stuff every day (usually how Not to do something, lol). HTH, just dont know ur experience level. Forgive me if seeming patronizing...

 

[JoeCrozier]

Hello JoeCrozier,
I too have a 144, its currently installed in a '61 falcon 4dr sedan. Ive done a bunch of upgrades to it if you want to check out my other posts.

From the second picture the pulley does look bent on the inside ( side thats touching the engine). When I bought mine, the previous owner had swapped a larger (V8) radiator in there and the stock fan didnt work so he swapped in a different one, long story short the fan would hit the pulley and bent it on mine. I had to get a new one. I opt to get a slightly different one then the one that you have on the picture ( I had that one too). I got one where you can add an additional pulley. I needed it to be double because I upgraded the stock generator ( 40 amps or so) to a ford 3g alternator out of a 96 Taurus (130 amps). If you dont have a double pulley for that 3g alternator, the belt slips.

You can try and see if the motor will turn over. I would first make sure the transmission is in neutral and take out the spark plugs to make it easier to turn. Some sort of penetrant like PB blaster goes along way. Even after this you still might not be able to turn it over is the pulley is making contact with the engine. To get the pulley off you need a puller.

Good news is that parts for this engine are cheap as far as the timing set, gaskets, water pump( i think i paid like 20 bucks for mine) etc. The bad news is that there isnt really that many options ( I only know of one, DUI ) for distributors. This is important because of the way that the stock distributor picks up one of its signals (cant remember if its low rpm or high rpm). I had first swapped in electronic ignition ( isnt too expensive) and its better over stock for sure, you have to keep your stock carburetor ( the distributor is connected to the carb) . This allows you to open the gap on your plugs from stock 0.035" to 0.040". I thought it made a difference.

Thank you for your help! So, an update since I posted:

I took out the spark plugs and peaked inside to see if there was corrosion or something preventing it from spinning. Turns out there's standing water inside of one of them, so.... the heads coming off to see what I'm dealing with.

And thank you for the advice on the distributor and parts, I'll definitely look into that when I get there!

 

[JoeCrozier]

That's GREAT, pic. Also 'a stand".
Not sure your future intentions but some geta official stand as they wanna work on the motor.

https://www.amazon.com/JEGS-80064-Engine-Cradle-Wheels/dp/B078WHPXVT/ref=asc_df_B078WHPXVT/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312158556601&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3516450138875987661&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001635&hvtargid=pla-568875599502&psc=1

I hate amizone & never buy frm them but direct frm Jeggs or Harbor freight. Many get

VEVOR Engine Stand, 750 lbs (3/8 Ton) Rotating Engine Motor Stand with 360 Degree Adjustable Head, Cast Iron Motor Hoist Dolly, 4-Caster, 4 Adjustable Arms, for Vehicle Maintenance, Auto Repair | VEVOR US

Discover VEVOR Engine Stand, 750 lbs (3/8 Ton) Rotating Engine Motor Stand with 360 Degree Adjustable Head, Cast Iron Motor Hoist Dolly, 4-Caster, 4 Adjustable Arms, for Vehicle Maintenance, Auto Repair, 750 LBS Capacity & H-shaped Base and Heavy-duty Material at lowest price, 2days delivery...

www.vevor.com

the reason i drop in the 1st 'stand' link is it's one/U can run the engine on it as transitioning back to the car/truck.

Any way, now is the time to ID all the components (including block... some would paint, too early 4 me) . After 50, 60 yrs 1 of many owners may have changed out stuff (head, carb, etc). Nice aid:

The Ford Falcon SIX Cylinder PERFORMANCE HANDBOOK | Vintage Inlines

The Ford Falcon SIX Cylinder Performance Handbook has 107 pages of History, Facts, and Information to help you get more power out of your small Ford SIX. This engine was used in Falcons, Mustangs, Fairlaines, and Comets in the 60’s. It was the FoMoCo workhorse in Mavericks, Granadas, and...

www.vintageinlines.com

While waiting for delivery, free:

Classic Inlines

(@ blue horizontal line top of this page)
After an ID, I'd try some gentile ways of getting to run (I want some immediate satisfaction 4 all my wrk hereto-for). Decisions on: how much U will take on, what you will pay others for, new tool selection and budget might B next. Some (under tools) might seek out a shop (or lesser Chiton's or Haynes manual - for tq specs, exploded view of components for disassembly/assembly, & general 'right in my shop' assistance). I cant see inside solid metal to understand how som prts are 'locked together'.

Your 'all over cleaning' idea was also a good'un. U can C the casting numbers now for head/block ID. U might also see the part ur concerned abt hasa rubber insert between it's 2 metal 'inside' and 'outside'. Disassembly here would B done ina way NOT to destroy that rubber bond. My thought is it might B destroyed now'n this is Y it seems to B crooked. Light prying around the parameter Might show this true. It is hard to imagine (4 me) a brute force mechanic getting that dampener on crooked (perhaps a frnt end collision to a good 'balancer'?). So the rubber could B damaged. Diagnosis would assist. A 2nd point when addressing balancer/dampener is the separate bolt and 'pulley' itself. Yes the center bolt comes out, counter clock-wise turn, but the item itself will most likely stay on. As I remember that is a friction/interference fit, nota key way and key. A puller can B used as 1 removal method but must B placed on 'inner' metal edge rather than 'easy' outer surface (remember rubber?) If diagnosis proved rubber is good. I've never seen a crank snout (the internal/external prt the dampener is on) bent ina accident but learn new stuff every day (usually how Not to do something, lol). HTH, just dont know ur experience level. Forgive me if seeming patronizing...

Thank you for all this! Last I checked that ford falcon handbook was out of stock but I'll keep an eye out for when I can get one.

And you didn't seem patronizing at all, thank you for all your input! My experience level is very minimal. Just barely starting out.

 

[chad]

"...Just... starting out...."
found a good crew to hang w/here.

As U dissasemble measure major components for future decisions on
machining,
replacement,
ID.
Head bolts MIGHT B used once more if oe/stock. They stretch w/too much more use
to stay w/in tolarance for spec.

 

[JoeCrozier]

"...Just... starting out...."
found a good crew to hang w/here.

As U dissasemble measure major components for future decisions on
machining,
replacement,
ID.
Head bolts MIGHT B used once more if oe/stock. They stretch w/too much more use
to stay w/in tolarance for spec.

Will do! I've been documenting with a million pictures as well

 

[chad]

"...million pictures..."
THAT's really great. Never did that as dont have the tech or equipment.

It can show U how to reassemble, can use to share here for Qs, and is just
a wonderful thing for an enthusiast like me. I lub pic. Glad the net evolved
the ability.
Have U IDed the block as actual 144/2.4 ?

Small Six Identification

What inline six do you have? Here's how to know!

fordsix.com

Do U have a vehicle for it? or 'purpose' beyond entertainment and learning? Tools? official 'stand'?
How's progress on harmonic balancer?

Crankshaft Pulley

The crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer) is mounted on the end of the crankshaft. Its purpose is to turn the drive belts that operate the engine accessories (alternator, air conditioning compressor, etc.)

repairpal.com

"Damper Doctor"

DamperDoctor

The #1 source for new and rebuilt harmonic balancers, Dampers for internal combustion engines. vibration dampers rebuilt to OEM specs. replacement harmonic vibration balancers a

www.damperdoctor.com

Correct option? Must ID motor 1st

Product Page | Vintage Inlines

www.vintageinlines.com

I no my 3 shive 250/4.2 damper would not work...

 

[JoeCrozier]

"...million pictures..."
THAT's really great. Never did that as dont have the tech or equipment.

It can show U how to reassemble, can use to share here for Qs, and is just
a wonderful thing for an enthusiast like me. I lub pic. Glad the net evolved
the ability.
Have U IDed the block as actual 144/2.4 ?

Small Six Identification

What inline six do you have? Here's how to know!

fordsix.com

Do U have a vehicle for it? or 'purpose' beyond entertainment and learning? Tools? official 'stand'?
How's progress on harmonic balancer?

Crankshaft Pulley

The crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer) is mounted on the end of the crankshaft. Its purpose is to turn the drive belts that operate the engine accessories (alternator, air conditioning compressor, etc.)

repairpal.com

"Damper Doctor"

DamperDoctor

The #1 source for new and rebuilt harmonic balancers, Dampers for internal combustion engines. vibration dampers rebuilt to OEM specs. replacement harmonic vibration balancers a

www.damperdoctor.com

Correct option? Must ID motor 1st

Product Page | Vintage Inlines

www.vintageinlines.com

I no my 3 shive 250/4.2 damper would not work...

Thank you for all this.

Yes I'm 98% sure its a 144, though feel free to correct me. Here's a few photos I think are relevant:

https://imgur.com/j8x33LD

https://imgur.com/IJEQf2D

As far as what the 'goal' is, right now, tinkering with the engine IS the goal. I.e. sure, I daydream about throwing it into a cool old falcon or comet (maybe the convertible?) but for the last year or so I've been daydreaming about working on an old engine. This one came around and the price was right (free). Also, I have garage space to work on an engine, but its not big enough to fit a project car and I don't want a rust bucket taking up space on my driveway. Really, I enjoy working on machines (have a 3d printer and cnc laser engraver), and the process is the fun. In fact, side story: when i discovered standing water in the engine, I complained to my wife that it would mean I'd have to take the engine apart farther. She was like "I'm confused, wasn't that the point?" and she has a fair point.

I think goal #1 is fix up the engine, learn its in's and out's (i've only worked on one engine before, an old 80's honda motorcycle), learn how carburetors work.. etc..

Once the engine is functioning with the parts I already have, THEN I'll think about what I'm going to do with it. I've thought about modifying the intake manifold with a mill to accept a larger/multiple carburetors (like I've seen on this forum, my friend has a bridgeport we can use), I've seen on here replacing the distributor might be a good idea (though it already looks like someone replaced the starter motor/alternator/distributor (they look newer), and/or I've thought about selling it and getting my hands on a larger inline 6. Maybe a 200?

Really who knows, that's a while out. The budget is shoestring so pace will be slow.

First up, one area of the engine that seems to have collected the most crud/rust/gunk while sitting outside was this bolt:

https://imgur.com/E6RQltt

and so before I can take the head off and do more work, I got to uncover that bolt more. It's already gone through several rounds of naval jelly/steel brush/rustoleum rust dissolver/heat gun. Anybody else have any tips?

 

[JoeCrozier]

Oh as far as taking the photos, yea I just use my iphone when I see something interesting. Also, I've been kinda 'documenting' my progress on this random instagram account I created:

(@fordfalcon144) • Instagram photos and videos

3 Followers, 1 Following, 8 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from (@fordfalcon144)

www.instagram.com

 

[frozenrabbit]

Would definitely switch the bent one piece crank pulley for a 2 piece. If it's way locked up with that standing water, it's not worth spending much time on. Once you start looking, there are plenty of people that have pulled these 6's out and have one they just want to get rid of.

 

[Frank]

Joe- I like your attitude. Hands on tinkering is a more accurate teacher than any book. And way more fun.
The bolt: a small chisel or straight screwdriver and tap it with a hammer to clean up the flange around the bolt. Chip the junk off. Wear safety glasses.
(ADDED) after the scale is chiseled away use PB Blaster or another quality penetrating oil on it- keep it damp with it for several days to a week before trying to remove it. With the penetrating oil present, strike the head of the bolt with a modest blow from a hammer a couple of times a day. Give it 8 or 10 light bangs, spray another shot of oil and leave it be for another day. . . this procedure- patience- will greatly reduce breaking the bolt as gb500 accidently did.

 

[chad]

"...though feel free to correct me...."
no, bud, I want U to B assured that YOU no it. I like what
Frank's said. Get into it (safely) and enjoy. The references
posted are some of the best (anywhere) and can get you up to
speed. That pad above the pitched down pipe (road draft tube) in
2nd to last pic can B deciphered by bubba. I've never seen a road draft
tube (1st attempt at pollution control) ina ford. Seen them here cuz I'm willing
to do some extra work. That means "not everything's in da garage". If U read
my 1st cite 'small 6 ID" (our tech archive @ above blue line, top of page I think it
may say "castings identify block near the down tube of exhaust on passenger's
(RIGHT) side of block" Now, I may have got that from my last cite to U in my post
(numbered 3 above). I can tell U did not read cuz U only show us driver's side. No,
just kiddin, U may have read, but the ID is on the other side (I believe. Chit, I'm just jealous
as I wanna 144 to mess w/too~

 

[gb500]

First up, one area of the engine that seems to have collected the most crud/rust/gunk while sitting outside was this bolt:

https://imgur.com/E6RQltt

and so before I can take the head off and do more work, I got to uncover that bolt more. It's already gone through several rounds of naval jelly/steel brush/rustoleum rust dissolver/heat gun. Anybody else have any tips?

Just been thru this with that exact same rusted head bolt.
Got the big breaker bar on it .... and sheared the bolt head off flush with the head.....

My recommendation would be oxy to get bolt head red hot and over a few cycles
In my case this was the only head bolt that didnt come out.

I left the bolt stub soaking
So reckon ill pull alk push rods etc and try and unscrew the whole head in a lefty loosy/ anticlockwise way....and hopefully wind the stub of the head bolt out with it

 

[JoeCrozier]

Just been thru this with that exact same rusted head bolt.
Got the big breaker bar on it .... and sheared the bolt head off flush with the head.....

My recommendation would be oxy to get bolt head red hot and over a few cycles
In my case this was the only head bolt that didnt come out.

I left the bolt stub soaking
So reckon ill pull alk push rods etc and try and unscrew the whole head in a lefty loosy/ anticlockwise way....and hopefully wind the stub of the head bolt out with it

Ugh. That stinks to hear. Thanks for the warning. I'll spend even more time digging down to the bolt and creating clearance before i try to wrench it. I'll try to avoid the worst case. As @Frank said, I'll keep chiseling down to it (i started using an old nail to scrape/hit at it).

@chad Thank you for all your help on this. I really am pretty sure that N is the correct one to be looking at. Both from the link you sent and from the Falcon Shop Manual. I'm no small six expert obviously but I've double checked that about ten times. Its gotta be a 144. I'll measure more when I get the head off obviously though.

 

[chad]

no need to open. C 'Handbook's definition'. Ck castings on other side. Post here if having difficulty.
Only 1 of these (seen upside dwn w/pan off) w/4 mains.

Bolt: those who wrk here have lots of solutions. #1 try to not destroy shape of head as it assists in removal. Start w/
cheep, easy solutions and move up in expense, time, human bull power. Again, wanting to preserve the head for removal.
Sooo.. yes soaks start 1st. We try w/small forward and reverse sometimes (very small, again no need to twist off head). My
concern w/getting all other bolts off 1st & picking up head to twist against block is snap off at block's 'deck' (easier removal w/something left above) Anyway, several unsuccessful days of soak, resoak and small attempts at bolt movement indicates (as above) heat use. oxyacetylene is great but something can B done w/plumber's torch (hand sz bottle gas) &/or 'map' gas (a lill hotter). More on metallurgy - colors. When pointed directly at bolt the heat turns head a dull color first to dull red and on further increase in temperature it changes to bright red to orange, then yellow, progressively white and then finally blue. Do not go past the bright red or damage occurs. Use 'fire wrench' sparingly till experienced, it's no magic & can create different problems."Heat on, count to 30, try wrench" (the rust blaster will not wrk now, will just burn away). No turn? heat, count to 50, observe for color change, try the back'n forth twist again.
My fav is tack another bolt on (but we have mig here).
If it DOES break, a real pain, we can still help. If U send off for machining - that guy can take out too (U would wanna do an entire disassembly - pistons out, etc) if doing that. He can deal w/a head bolt (sticking out or broke below 'deck' ) as can U. He just charges 4 it.
Again, as indicated above, this motor may not B a candidate for this (rebuild) if "too much is gone". So it's really a step by step check, decide, go further, ck, decide, etc.
Do you have any 1 there, a sort of booth on the ground, to aid. Some 1 more experienced to come by, talk to, etc? Or are we the only ones?