Classic Inlines Duraspark II kit feedback

[67drewstang]

I ordered, received, and installed the Classic Inlines Duraspark II dizzy kit on my 1967 Mustang convertible with 200 ci I-6 and just to cut to the chase; it is as if someone put an additional engine under my hood.

Turns out, my stock distributor has never worked correctly. Mechanic after mechanic has mistakenly blamed the carburetor for running in an over-lean condition. I have replaced the exhaust manifold four times over the 37 years that I have owned the car. It routinely dieseled on shut down. It always ran hot. It has always barely maintained highway speed, and then only when only one passenger was carried.

Now, with the Duraspark II and proper advance, I am able to spin the tires at intersections routinely. I can drive 75-80 mph on the interstate. I can even accelerate, even when carrying passengers, at the speed of traffic or better. And, obtw, it runs always in the lower portion of the temp gauge. I can even see the temp drop down when the thermostat turns on.

If I were to do this all again, I would not put a penny in the car before replacing the Load-O-Matic distributor. This is the single best mod I've ever done to any car.

 

[FalconSedanDelivery]

Really , Hmmm

 

[67drewstang]

I don't come here much, but I've looked into your posting past and am intrigued.

My main criticisms of the kit is that it appears to be slightly overpriced, I cannot understand why it doesn't include a standard plug into the distro, instead you have three separate wires, which are then completely unprotected from the elements. The Resistor wire replacement appears to be completely unnecessary for non-racing purposes. Just leave the stock resistor wire in place.

If I were going to do it over again, I'd just order everything for a 1978 Ford 200 ci six at O'Reilly's and build it myself.

 

[FalconSedanDelivery]

My comment was for upgrading from a loadamatic , NOT necessarily using The DUI Duraspark , again any Dist needs to be re-curved for optimum performance

 

[67drewstang]

I was actually tracking that.

Load-o-Matic is a very polite way to describe that steaming hunk of poo.

DUI seems extremely pricey to me. With Duraspark I get good performance (I didn't bother to recurve; the performance difference from the LOM was so severe that I'm still just enjoying getting up to highway speed) and I can get replacement parts from a typical auto parts outlet with minimum fuss.

What are you using? Again, I am intrigued by your outspoken nature and evident body of knowledge. I went back and read some of your comments on exhausts and will probably try some of your tips.

 

[stu in wichita]

Really , Hmmm

Well said, FSD. I knew exactly what you meant! Okay, I'm finally ready to listen to your advice. It's time to get the Duraspark installed and forget about the LOM.

A few questions for you both:

• 1. 67drewstang, what carb are you using?

• 2. Can I use the LOM carb (Holley 1108) with the new distributor, at least for now? I know I need to plug the SCV port and find a source of manifold vacuum.

• 3. Are there any tricks to keep from losing the oil pump drive shaft? Does it usually stay in the oil pump or come out with the dizzy? My engine is a '64 170, so there's a chance it will have a 1/4" shaft. Crossing my fingers at this point.

Thanks for the feedback and help.
-Stu

 

[67drewstang]

I am using the stock carb it came with. Which is an 1100, I believe.

And I am not using manifold vacuum. I just hooked up the ported vacuum to the new Distributor, and Shazam! it worked.

I do not know enough to answer the rest of your questions, though.

 

[stu in wichita]

. . . And I am not using manifold vacuum. I just hooked up the ported vacuum to the new Distributor, and Shazam! it worked . . .

Do you mean you're using the same port that supplied vacuum to the old Load-O-Matic distributor? If so, I'm pretty sure that there's a few easy horses to unleash by changing your vacuum source. I hope FSD chimes in here - he really knows this stuff.

It's cool that you are so pleased with the Duraspark. I've been putting this off, but your experience is pushing me to do it now. Thanks for sharing.

-Stu

 

[FalconSedanDelivery]

Sadly if you have a 1/4 drive oil pump setup you are Very limited on dist choice ,unless you modify the engine or dist or both , that being said whether you use a vacuum advance or not will only effect your MPG's Not HP or overall performance ( if the Dist curve is right ) Back in the Day ( and still) Race engines / Hi performance combos didn't use Vac Adv , back then it was a Dual Point Dist , All the Big 3 ran them ( no Vac adv ) there are ways of modifying a early autolite to ported vacuum ( the preferred method )

 

[stu in wichita]

Well, this weekend I pulled the dizzy to upgrade to a Duraspark, but it turn out I do have the 1/4" oil pump drive shaft. BUMMER!

Fortunately, FSD gave me some tuning hints, so I guess I can live with the LOM for now.

-Stu

 

[FalconSedanDelivery]

You can bump that timing as high as 32 btdc ( keep the line unhooked )

 

[stu in wichita]

I think I've fixed the stumbling issue with a carb adjustment, but I still want to work with my timing. A couple of questions.

• * What do you think about leaving the LOM hooked up? Is it doing anything at all for me? Right now, with 23 initial and the LOM connected, It doesn't ping, and seems to run much stronger.
  
  * You mentioned that mileage could suffer with more advance and the LOM plugged. Does the loss occur in idle, cruise or power mode? I always thought that more advance was better all around, until it pings or affects drivability.

67drewstang, I hope I haven't hijacked your thread - the timing and distributor issues are somewhat related. Sorry if I got too far off the original topic.

-Stu

 

[65Comet200]

Is there a thread that discusses how to modify a SCV carb. to use ported vacuum with a duraspark dist? I am looking to upgrade out of the SCV carb. but it may be awhile before I can. I already have the Duraspark, but the carb. that came with it (a holley 1946) needs some work....BTW will a Holley 1946 work with a manual transmission?

Thanks this discussion has been a great help.

 

[67drewstang]

Is there a thread that discusses how to modify a SCV carb. to use ported vacuum with a duraspark dist? I am looking to upgrade out of the SCV carb. but it may be awhile before I can. I already have the Duraspark, but the carb. that came with it (a holley 1946) needs some work....BTW will a Holley 1946 work with a manual transmission?
Thanks this discussion has been a great help.

i don't know if a 1946 will work with a manual, but there is nothing you need to do to modify a SCV carb to use ported vacuum with a duraspark distributor.

I'd just take the bit that plugs into the LOM dizzy and plug it into the duraspark.

Better mechanics than me might have other advice, however.

 

[67drewstang]

67drewstang, I hope I haven't hijacked your thread - the timing and distributor issues are somewhat related. Sorry if I got too far off the original topic.

-Stu

You actually have made it more interesting and informative.

 

[FalconSedanDelivery]

Although you can plug in the vacuum from the scv port , its not the way it should work , here is why, scv is Venturi vacuum , it increases with throttle opening and is amplified by the venturi in the carb ,it needs to be because it works to advance the timing because there is no centrifugal weights in a Loadamatic just retard springs , kind of a backwards system , it is Very similar to a ported spark , but a bit stronger ( at times ) that is why if you hook it up to a dual advance dist it probably will pull in too much total timing , ported vacuum is almost nil at idle but increases with throttle opening , its source is above the throttle plate but below the venturi , it allows advance to be added in under no load or light load situations , under wide open it goes away , Manifold vacuum is just that , vacuum present Under the throttle plate , it is NOT a place to hook up a vacuum advance , the only systems that used any manifold to vac advance hook ups were Smog related systems designed to increase initial timing to allow the engine to cool down , BECAUSE IN ORDER TO REDUCE EMISSIONS THEY RETARDED THE INITIAL TIMING , AS IT REDUCED Oxides of Nitrogen ) if you vehicle runs better ( over all not just at idle ) the centrifugal curve is NOT what it needs to be nor is the vac adv canister, I hear it runs so much smoother at idle with manifold vacuum , Yes it will , but the correct way to get that is to increase the initial timing in the dist while limiting the total, if you don't, the second you crack the throttle the timing will RETARD , and if the centrifugal doesn't come in fast enough it will hesitate or bog

 

[wsa111]

Remove the SCV from the carb. Drill & tap & install a screw in plug where the venturi vacuum enters the cavity where the SCV screws into. Reinstall the SCV.
That will eliminate the venturi vacuum.
I bet 90% of the forum has never had their distributor on a sun tester for proper calibration.
That being said you will have to run ported vacuum advance.
If the distributor is curved for proper full throttle performance under heavy load, then it may be possible to use manifold vacuum to aid part throttle light load drivability. If you have a stock camshaft ported vacuum will probably be your only choice.
There are two factors on a vacuum advance chamber. When the advance starts & when it ends. The second is how many degrees vacuum advance will you need for your engine.
No distributor for our engines comes with this advance chamber.
You have to purchase an aftermarket advance to get some of these features & even then they will need custom work.
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