66Muscle
New member
About 6yrs ago I bought a new Holley/Weber 5200 from Tom Landgon (Stovebolt 6). I had a problem getting my engine started this fall and was sure the carburetor was the culprit. When turning over the engine would almost catch and then "CHUFF" and stop. One time during the startup, I was able to get the engine to catch and revved it up to 2K...then it quit. All attempts after this ended in "CHUFF" and a mist of gas!
I had a PSI gage showing 5psi for fuel, fuel was clean, fuel filters clear and the engine was running before that. I took the 5200 apart and found lots of problems with worn out floats, tangs gum, tar, etc. I called Tom and asked for a rebuild kit. He told me he only offered the same universal rebuild kits you find online and that he was expensive compared to some of the online distrbutors. (32/36 style for $90) He said I would end up with more parts left over that I couldn't use and maybe a few that wouldn't be swappable. He said so many iterations of these carbs are out there including the Chinese ones and they weren't reliable.
He wasn't stocking them anymore. But he had a 32/36 EMPI WEBER that was new, bench tested and ready to go except for idle mixture and speed settings. Everyone needs a backup carb right? So I bought it.
After mounting the carb (identical mounting and position of the fuel line and bowl) I made a new linkeage to rotate CCW instead of CW for the H5200.
Tested it today and DAMN...now I have the same problem. Almost start then a CHUFF. So I am not a fuel carb specialist and am wondering if there are words of wisdom on this forum that could help me. I am suspicious of the fuel pump. (Even though I did a test and it pumps great and thick regular squirts into a cup.)
So the obstinate Dad is now asking for some help. Please.
ALSO ; I made the new linkeage from the pedal rod to the carb. If anyone is interested EM me and we can talk about what you need. It works for both CW or CCW rotation of the carbs, depending on the model carb you have. It was such a pain to remove the pressed ball from the pedal rod that I wanted to do more than just press it out and replace with same.
I had a PSI gage showing 5psi for fuel, fuel was clean, fuel filters clear and the engine was running before that. I took the 5200 apart and found lots of problems with worn out floats, tangs gum, tar, etc. I called Tom and asked for a rebuild kit. He told me he only offered the same universal rebuild kits you find online and that he was expensive compared to some of the online distrbutors. (32/36 style for $90) He said I would end up with more parts left over that I couldn't use and maybe a few that wouldn't be swappable. He said so many iterations of these carbs are out there including the Chinese ones and they weren't reliable.
He wasn't stocking them anymore. But he had a 32/36 EMPI WEBER that was new, bench tested and ready to go except for idle mixture and speed settings. Everyone needs a backup carb right? So I bought it.
After mounting the carb (identical mounting and position of the fuel line and bowl) I made a new linkeage to rotate CCW instead of CW for the H5200.
Tested it today and DAMN...now I have the same problem. Almost start then a CHUFF. So I am not a fuel carb specialist and am wondering if there are words of wisdom on this forum that could help me. I am suspicious of the fuel pump. (Even though I did a test and it pumps great and thick regular squirts into a cup.)
So the obstinate Dad is now asking for some help. Please.
ALSO ; I made the new linkeage from the pedal rod to the carb. If anyone is interested EM me and we can talk about what you need. It works for both CW or CCW rotation of the carbs, depending on the model carb you have. It was such a pain to remove the pressed ball from the pedal rod that I wanted to do more than just press it out and replace with same.
