All Small Six In a Damn Cam Jam - 200 build

This relates to all small sixes
6

65musty

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Really would love the hive minds input on Cam selection, I have my thoughts but would love to hear what others have experienced with similar setups.

Goal is Daily Driver with stop and go fun and highway traffic comfort. Don't care if a rice burner blows my doors off, I haven't gotten a speeding ticket in 15 years.

Assembling parts for my 200 build, head(s) and block at machine shop now.

Short story is:

65 200 w/ 69 250 LOG home ported/polished head
Stock 1:5 Rockers
2V machined conversion with weber 32/36
1.5 exhaust valve conversion
302 springs w/hardened retainers
Mill .03 - .06 TBD
Dual Outlet Header

Zero deck block
Silvolite dished pistons 6.5cc
Balanced rotating assembly
8.8 - 9.0+ compression estimate TBD by head CC

C4 Auto trans stock stall (assembling T5 conversion parts for next year)

8" rear w/ drums current 2:80 going to 3:50 with T5 conversion
Maier Panhard Rod & Sway Bar Kit and chassis stiffening kit

Shelby drop - Grenada swap front disc suspension w/ roller perch sway bar etc.

Manual Steering/Brakes A/C car

I would love to nail this cam selection out of the gate but suspect I will have a few laying around before it is all over.

John
 
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A C4 3 speed will shift your 200 six out of it's power band.
With 6 forward gears when I shift my 78 200 C4 GV overdrive at 5,000 the rpm only drops to 4,000.
Install a 5 speed with 3.50 gears. That will provide much more performance than a camshaft change.
 
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Thanks to you both for putting this in perspective! So easy to get lost in the weeds during this rebuild.
78_200_C4 said:
A C4 3 speed will shift your 200 six out of it's power band.
With 6 forward gears when I shift my 78 200 C4 GV overdrive at 5,000 the rpm only drops to 4,000.
Install a 5 speed with 3.50 gears. That will provide much more performance than a camshaft change.
Click to expand...

aussie7mains said:
If keeping your drive train, stay with the stock cam, you need low down torque.
Click to expand...
 
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When you do select a cam, get the closed and open spring pressures from the manufacturer. Then verify the springs you have will work at the installed height. Whoever did or does your head work can give you those 3 numbers with the springs you have. PAC Racing has a nice tool for spring selection. If you need more clarification on this, please ask👍. It may sound complicated but really isn’t bad. Finding the right spring can be tedious 🤨. Smith Brothers is a good place for push rods. Quality.
IMHP With the mods you have and a 5 speed coming, I would go with more of a performance cam as opposed to stock. Look thru descriptions on Clay Smith cams and Crower for one that suits your goals for the end performance desired
Doing research before hand is worth the time. đź‘Ť
 
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Thank you so much!
Gary at RAU is hooking me up with adjustable 1.6 setup, and I did speak to Jerry at Schneider. Still having trouble selecting the "right one".

Does anyone here have experience with Clifford's 264 Hydraulic Camshaft - .206 @ .050 - .474 valve lift - 110 center?
I like the idea of 80% torque off idle and the lower max HP rpm with my current C4 highway gear setup.

Really appreciate the DS11, I have an ebay HEI that I DID NOT want to use (got it in a parts package)
 
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I run a stock Enginetech 256 cam with the original 78 valve springs.
I also run an HEI.
I can wind my .060 milled D7 head 78 200 to 5,400 in low, 5,000 + in 1st over, 5,000 in 2nd and 2nd over.
I have to let off the gas in 3rd + 3rd over. I don't want to get pulled over by the CHP.
This is going uphill on 2 I-80 foothills on ramps.
 
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65musty said:
Thank you so much!
Gary at RAU is hooking me up with adjustable 1.6 setup, and I did speak to Jerry at Schneider. Still having trouble selecting the "right one".

Does anyone here have experience with Clifford's 264 Hydraulic Camshaft - .206 @ .050 - .474 valve lift - 110 center?
I like the idea of 80% torque off idle and the lower max HP rpm with my current C4 highway gear setup.

Really appreciate the DS11, I have an ebay HEI that I DID NOT want to use (got it in a parts package)
Click to expand...
Your EBAY HEI has over oiling problems & the advance curve is way off.
I can fix the over oiling & also recurve it for your build. billythedistributorman@live.com Bill wsa111
 
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If I setup my static CR to 8.8 my dynamic CR will be down around 7 with all of the cams I am looking at.

If I went to flat top pistons it would get me to 9.7 / 7.7 respectively.

Any input on benefits / drawbacks?
 
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I think after much consideration I am going with the dished pistons and reduced SCR of 8.8:1 along with the 264 .206 @ .050 .474 110 cam with 4 degrees advance. I will be giving up considerable high end HP as compared to other options but my current c4 2:80 setup will need all the torque I can get. When I go to the T5 and trac-lok rear I might toss flat top pistons and a different cam/carb in to see what happens.
 
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65musty said:
I think after much consideration I am going with the dished pistons and reduced SCR of 8.8:1 along with the 264 .206 @ .050 .474 110 cam with 4 degrees advance. I will be giving up considerable high end HP as compared to other options but my current c4 2:80 setup will need all the torque I can get. When I go to the T5 and trac-lok rear I might toss flat top pistons and a different cam/carb in to see what happens.
Click to expand...
This is a good combo, particularly with your tall rear gear. Street driving torque is more important than the occasional full throttle blast. (y)
 
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Frank said:
This is a good combo, particularly with your tall rear gear. Street driving torque is more important than the occasional full throttle blast. (y)
Click to expand...
Thanks Frank, now that all that is over I can get excited about the 70 Ranchero I am picking up tomorrow. It's a driver so I wont be immediately pulling the 302 to drop in a 250, swapping out the front end for discs, and otherwise having it sit in my garage for a decade.....maybe
 
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