Batman1458
Active member
A few people have asked me about the Weber 32/36 swap I did. So I decided to list what I did and how I did it. Below are listed the items I used for the Carb Swap. I don't like changing too many things, at the same time, because it complicates troubleshooting, but if you have an Autolite 1100 carb, it should have a Load-O-Matic distrbutor. This distributor has a special vacuum advance, that only works with the Autolite 1100 carb. I would install the new distributor, with the old carburetor and get the car running well. Adjust the timing a little so that the car starts well and idles well. Take it for a test drive, but I don't know how well the Autolite 1100 will perform, with the new distributor. You may have to disconnect the vacuum advance.
After installing the distributor, you will also want to change the plug wires to something that will run hotter, like 8-9mm in size. You can also re-gap the plugs to between 0.045-0.050. You should see a big jump in performance, just with the distributor swap, but again, the vacuum advance may prevent or create some performance issues.
If you purchase the carb kit listed, it comes with the 2.5" Air Filter. They have a 1.75" Air Filter as an option. Be sure to request that they swap the filters to the smaller one to allow for hood clearance.
Next, remove the old carb. Also remove the plate that sits between the carb and the intake. This has two ports for the heater hoses to connect and allow antifreeze to flow through the plate. This plate is designed to keep the carb cool, because the Intake is right above the exhaust manifold. With the new adapter plate, that comes with the kit, you don't need this cooling plate. The new one is aluminum and sits much higher, keeping the carb cool. Make sure you get a hose fitting, to connect the heater hoses together, once you remove the cooling plate. Also, if you keep the cooling plate, you will probably have hood clearance issues, so it has to go.
Attach the new adapter plate and gasket, with the PCV port facing the firewall. You may be able to use the original bolts, from the cooling plate. I found mine were just a little too long and I had obtained some threaded studs, to mount the plate to the Intake. After mounting the adapter plate mount the carb and gasket. The fuel inlet should be facing the driver's side, along the valve cover. The Electric Choke, will be facing the passenger side.
We chose to mount the pressure regulator, on the firewall. It is out of the way and was easy to mount. The inlet is actually on the bottom, with two outlets, in either side direction. From what I have read, it is factory set at about 2.7PSI and the Weber 32/36 wants about 3.5PSI. We left the factory setting and adjusted after the car was running a few days. We did have a little trouble lining up the mounting holes, after it was attached to the firewall. We used the mounting screws provided, but it moved the regulator a little forward on the mounting plate and the two holes had to be filed out a little for it to fit. We used the original fuel line from the fuel pump, we re-bent it in the opposite direction and made it work. You can keep just the threaded end and use fuel hose, but I like metal lines over rubber. Also, make sure you use Teflon tape on the fittings for the pressure regulator.
To connect the Electric Choke, run a wire to the alternator. My understanding is it must be a switched, 12V source. Test the alternator and on mine, the white wire was the switched source. I ran a wire from the choke, to the alternator.
After the carb and pressure regulator are mounted, connect the vacuum advance line, from the distributor to the carb. The original connections are threaded, the new ones, you will have to remove the threaded fittings and attach hoses, to make the connections.
Lastly the linkage. It is recommended to use a throttle cable. Lokar makes a popular gas pedal replacement that uses a throttle cable and Back Woods Speed shop also has some more affordable options. I decided to use the original throttle linkage and make an adapter to connect to the carb linkage. I added an adjustable linkage rod and it worked for me.
I am still tweaking and tuning, but I am also installing a T-5, so I have left the carb as is for now. I may install an electric fuel pump later, because I do have a dead spot at high RPM, but have not had a lot of time to troubleshoot that. I'll do that later. Car definitely starts and runs a lot better and more reliably. Even at low temps, the car starts immediately, every time. The Holley 1940 I replaced didn't leak, but constantly had a gas smell. All that is gone now.
I hope this helps.
Ed
http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/
WK-550 http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/wk550.htm
1.75" Air Filter Kit http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/f1000.htm
http://www.summitracing.com/
Holley 12-804 Pressure Regulator http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-804
Hose Barb Fitting (2) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-15151
Plug http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-921004
http://backwoodsspeedshop.com/
HEI Distributor with 50K Coil http://backwoodsspeedshop.com/products/ ... 9303f1e261
HEI Power/Tac Plug http://backwoodsspeedshop.com/products/ ... ertac-plug
http://www.carburetion.com/index.htm
Adjustable Linkage Rod http://www.carburetion.com/Products/Pro ... =99006.136
http://www.cjponyparts.com/
9MM Plug Wires http://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-racing- ... 259M302-V/
After installing the distributor, you will also want to change the plug wires to something that will run hotter, like 8-9mm in size. You can also re-gap the plugs to between 0.045-0.050. You should see a big jump in performance, just with the distributor swap, but again, the vacuum advance may prevent or create some performance issues.
If you purchase the carb kit listed, it comes with the 2.5" Air Filter. They have a 1.75" Air Filter as an option. Be sure to request that they swap the filters to the smaller one to allow for hood clearance.
Next, remove the old carb. Also remove the plate that sits between the carb and the intake. This has two ports for the heater hoses to connect and allow antifreeze to flow through the plate. This plate is designed to keep the carb cool, because the Intake is right above the exhaust manifold. With the new adapter plate, that comes with the kit, you don't need this cooling plate. The new one is aluminum and sits much higher, keeping the carb cool. Make sure you get a hose fitting, to connect the heater hoses together, once you remove the cooling plate. Also, if you keep the cooling plate, you will probably have hood clearance issues, so it has to go.
Attach the new adapter plate and gasket, with the PCV port facing the firewall. You may be able to use the original bolts, from the cooling plate. I found mine were just a little too long and I had obtained some threaded studs, to mount the plate to the Intake. After mounting the adapter plate mount the carb and gasket. The fuel inlet should be facing the driver's side, along the valve cover. The Electric Choke, will be facing the passenger side.
We chose to mount the pressure regulator, on the firewall. It is out of the way and was easy to mount. The inlet is actually on the bottom, with two outlets, in either side direction. From what I have read, it is factory set at about 2.7PSI and the Weber 32/36 wants about 3.5PSI. We left the factory setting and adjusted after the car was running a few days. We did have a little trouble lining up the mounting holes, after it was attached to the firewall. We used the mounting screws provided, but it moved the regulator a little forward on the mounting plate and the two holes had to be filed out a little for it to fit. We used the original fuel line from the fuel pump, we re-bent it in the opposite direction and made it work. You can keep just the threaded end and use fuel hose, but I like metal lines over rubber. Also, make sure you use Teflon tape on the fittings for the pressure regulator.
To connect the Electric Choke, run a wire to the alternator. My understanding is it must be a switched, 12V source. Test the alternator and on mine, the white wire was the switched source. I ran a wire from the choke, to the alternator.
After the carb and pressure regulator are mounted, connect the vacuum advance line, from the distributor to the carb. The original connections are threaded, the new ones, you will have to remove the threaded fittings and attach hoses, to make the connections.
Lastly the linkage. It is recommended to use a throttle cable. Lokar makes a popular gas pedal replacement that uses a throttle cable and Back Woods Speed shop also has some more affordable options. I decided to use the original throttle linkage and make an adapter to connect to the carb linkage. I added an adjustable linkage rod and it worked for me.
I am still tweaking and tuning, but I am also installing a T-5, so I have left the carb as is for now. I may install an electric fuel pump later, because I do have a dead spot at high RPM, but have not had a lot of time to troubleshoot that. I'll do that later. Car definitely starts and runs a lot better and more reliably. Even at low temps, the car starts immediately, every time. The Holley 1940 I replaced didn't leak, but constantly had a gas smell. All that is gone now.
I hope this helps.
Ed
http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/
WK-550 http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/wk550.htm
1.75" Air Filter Kit http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/f1000.htm
http://www.summitracing.com/
Holley 12-804 Pressure Regulator http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-804
Hose Barb Fitting (2) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-15151
Plug http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-921004
http://backwoodsspeedshop.com/
HEI Distributor with 50K Coil http://backwoodsspeedshop.com/products/ ... 9303f1e261
HEI Power/Tac Plug http://backwoodsspeedshop.com/products/ ... ertac-plug
http://www.carburetion.com/index.htm
Adjustable Linkage Rod http://www.carburetion.com/Products/Pro ... =99006.136
http://www.cjponyparts.com/
9MM Plug Wires http://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-racing- ... 259M302-V/
