re-rebuild
- Thread starter edgewood bronco
- Start date
edgewood bronco
Well-known member
Thanks bmbm. Have a few (100ish) miles on it now, seems to be doing well. Fun to drive. At the right RPMs, it sounds like a hundred hives of bees are escorting me around.
I cut the boss off the the log myself using a steady hand and a cutoff wheel on a 4.5 inch angle grinder. I used a file to get the top flat enough, and notched deep enough into the top of the log (ca. 1/8") that the spaces that needed to be filled were minimal. But don't mill off too much so you don't have enough iron to cut threads into for the hold-down screws. Once I was happy there, I carefully positioned the adapter, marked and drilled the four holes for the mounting screws and screwed down the adapter to check fit and then scored a line to work out to for the larger oval hole. I ovalized the hole with a porting burr I bought from Eastwood.
http://www.eastwood.com/1-4-shaft-doubl ... -burr.html
I then ported and polished the rest of the head as much as I could stand. When I took the head in to get it rebuilt (AFTER all of my hacking on it), my machinist suggested that 1) he would have it brazed to fill in the gaps between the adapter plate and the log (I was going to use JB Weld) and 2) he machine it flat on a mill rather than trusting my hand with a file. (I tried to cut the surface so that the carb would sit horizontal, which was wrong - I should've cut it parallel to the original surface because the engine tilts back a few degrees the way it sits in the bay. This has proven to be inconsequential.) The braze job filled the vacuum port below the carb, and I've never bothered to add it back because I use the one in the adapter from Classic Inlines. I don't know how my file and JB weld job would have held up, but I'm happy with the brazed and milled result. Very happy. I highly recommend it.
I used an accelerator cable out of an 80's mustang and made minor modifications to the top end of the original accelerator pedal on the inside of the bronco. The bronco pedal has a ball on the cable end, and the mustang cable needs to go into a vee. Basically (and I apologize if this part gets muddy), I heated the cable end of the pedal and turned it 90 degrees so that the flat surface was parallel to the firewall, then drove/drilled the ball out of the hole in the pedal, used a hacksaw to cut down to that hole, and reinforced the end a bit with my hack welding skills.
I couldn't figure out an elegant way to mount the cable holder on the engine side, so I welded it to the valve cover, thinking I'd change it later. If you don't cut the bracket off a later 70's 'power by ford' cover, you could probably bolt it to the stock bracket (where the vacuum relays bolt and wiring clips attach). I got a little ahead of myself and cut it off before I engineered the cable linkage.
Doug at Automotive Machine Service on 2nd and Aspen in Albuquerque is the man
And wsa111's recurved distributor is also key in making this a fun ride
I cut the boss off the the log myself using a steady hand and a cutoff wheel on a 4.5 inch angle grinder. I used a file to get the top flat enough, and notched deep enough into the top of the log (ca. 1/8") that the spaces that needed to be filled were minimal. But don't mill off too much so you don't have enough iron to cut threads into for the hold-down screws. Once I was happy there, I carefully positioned the adapter, marked and drilled the four holes for the mounting screws and screwed down the adapter to check fit and then scored a line to work out to for the larger oval hole. I ovalized the hole with a porting burr I bought from Eastwood.
http://www.eastwood.com/1-4-shaft-doubl ... -burr.html
I then ported and polished the rest of the head as much as I could stand. When I took the head in to get it rebuilt (AFTER all of my hacking on it), my machinist suggested that 1) he would have it brazed to fill in the gaps between the adapter plate and the log (I was going to use JB Weld) and 2) he machine it flat on a mill rather than trusting my hand with a file. (I tried to cut the surface so that the carb would sit horizontal, which was wrong - I should've cut it parallel to the original surface because the engine tilts back a few degrees the way it sits in the bay. This has proven to be inconsequential.) The braze job filled the vacuum port below the carb, and I've never bothered to add it back because I use the one in the adapter from Classic Inlines. I don't know how my file and JB weld job would have held up, but I'm happy with the brazed and milled result. Very happy. I highly recommend it.
I used an accelerator cable out of an 80's mustang and made minor modifications to the top end of the original accelerator pedal on the inside of the bronco. The bronco pedal has a ball on the cable end, and the mustang cable needs to go into a vee. Basically (and I apologize if this part gets muddy), I heated the cable end of the pedal and turned it 90 degrees so that the flat surface was parallel to the firewall, then drove/drilled the ball out of the hole in the pedal, used a hacksaw to cut down to that hole, and reinforced the end a bit with my hack welding skills.
I couldn't figure out an elegant way to mount the cable holder on the engine side, so I welded it to the valve cover, thinking I'd change it later. If you don't cut the bracket off a later 70's 'power by ford' cover, you could probably bolt it to the stock bracket (where the vacuum relays bolt and wiring clips attach). I got a little ahead of myself and cut it off before I engineered the cable linkage.
Doug at Automotive Machine Service on 2nd and Aspen in Albuquerque is the man
And wsa111's recurved distributor is also key in making this a fun ride
Oh yes now I remember reading about that operation and admiring your bravery. I like that git er done attitude.
I will keep your machinist info for when I get to the head part on my new engine which is a bit down the road. From what I can tell making the hole bigger in the log and getting the annular ring 2100 on gets you a good amount of low end torque.
Good info on that throttle cable and a recurved distributor should probably be part of every rebuild/performance build I know it is on my list.
Also glad to hear it goes good!
I will keep your machinist info for when I get to the head part on my new engine which is a bit down the road. From what I can tell making the hole bigger in the log and getting the annular ring 2100 on gets you a good amount of low end torque.
Good info on that throttle cable and a recurved distributor should probably be part of every rebuild/performance build I know it is on my list.
Also glad to hear it goes good!
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