66' 200 - replacing lifters / cylinder head questions

I think perhaps the issue with just swapping in a new cam is that you aren't changing out your old worn out bearings.

So I'm struggling with the decision to go ahead and do a short block rebuild while I have it apart doing the head, and have the time(winter coming in my neck of the woods). Just not sure if spending the money is necessary or would be beneficial. The car is used for weekend driving, local shows, etc. Only other drive train upgrades I'm thinking is a T5 trans at some point when the C4 needs rebuilt.

What should I check on/in the block to help me make the decision...besides my bank account.

-Compression was about 100-110 lbs on each cylinder before pulling the head. Engine was warm, but throttle was not wide open as I've since learned it should be. Not sure if this really makes a difference?
-No evidence of heavy scoring on the cylinder walls
-Plan to replace the lifters if I don't do the full rebuild(original problem was valve ticking after warm up, otherwise ran good - no smoke Etc)
-Head is getting complete rebuild now - valve job(3 angle), re-surfaced, valve seals, hardened seats, new springs, port divider for header, and a couple guides that were worn.

If I do rebuild block I'm thinking:

-Bore .030 over, new main bearings, cam bearings, grind crank as needed
-Mild cam - Maybe Clay Smith 264/264 with 110 degree LC
-New timing set, oil pump, etc
-Probably keep the stock 1 barrel carb for now since it was recently rebuilt as well. Also have Pertronix in the stock distributor already.

Any help on what else I could do to help make the decision of rebuild / no-rebuild for the block would be great.

If you plan to keep the Mustang for a long time it would provide a lot of fun over the years. So if it costs 500 more to do the block and you drive it for ten years that is 50 a year for the extra performance. It is a Mustang so it should increase in value several hundred dollars every year so you are increasing your equity every year you own it and it is tax free money you are getting. You can't lose.

bmbm40":2vwhq4gk said:

If you plan to keep the Mustang for a long time it would provide a lot of fun over the years. So if it costs 500 more to do the block and you drive it for ten years that is 50 a year for the extra performance. It is a Mustang so it should increase in value several hundred dollars every year so you are increasing your equity every year you own it and it is tax free money you are getting. You can't lose.

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This is a good point that I hadn't considered. I have no plans to sell it any time soon. It's closer to 1500.00 by the time I pay the machine shop cost, engine builder to tear down and re-assemble and buy the parts I need.

I plan to meet with the engine builder next week to see what I can gain HP wise by rebuilding. Might help me decide if it's worth the cost.

I have not had an engine rebuilt since about early 90's, guess things have gone up a bit. So a block rebuild is $1500 now that is a lot of money. I will have to save a bit more than I thought.
Well if the bottom end is sound you could go high lift rockers and go for a direct mount 2100.
The dyno results on classicinlines.com can give you an idea of what the various mods will get you for hp.

so if an upgraded cam is put in, what is considered a "mild" cam, you know,like your trying to slip one past granny, or make your old man "wonder" if there was a different cam put in,,,, spec'd numbers please.

gotmesomeFORDs":1tg09vjp said:

so if an upgraded cam is put in, what is considered a "mild" cam, you know,like your trying to slip one past granny, or make your old man "wonder" if there was a different cam put in,,,, spec'd numbers please.

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I ended up going with the Howard's Cams 267/267 - 110 LC. Still a relatively smooth idle, but also a good increase on the valve lift.