Building a 200 First build

thanks bmbm40.

Had her for a while now, but never really drove her. way to rusty. floors are now solid but just about everything else needs some help, though oddly enough the rockers are solid.

the five speed will be a nice add on. driven three five speeds and they are fun. 63 mgb 91 miata and 92 ranger.

the 61 has been a family project for a while, had her since I was ten. three generations of my family have worked on her. I plan to evenually make it four. im now almost 19.

http://www.kingsransom.com/cars/ my family's website. including my parents 56's and the 63mg and 78 olds (we get around)

I would have loved to have kept the colum shift but the hotter 200 wouldn't be kind to the 50 year old 3 speed, plus either highway or city she'd be a dog. best theft deterent now adays is the third pedal, put the shifter on the colum and really screw with them.

i will try to find the casting numbers for the bell housing when i return home.
 
I would have loved to have kept the colum shift but the hotter 200 wouldn't be kind to the 50 year old 3 speed, plus either highway or city she'd be a dog. best theft deterent now adays is the third pedal, put the shifter on the colum and really screw with them.
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Those top loader 3-speeds are about the toughest tranny out there...
 
"…top loader 3-speeds are about the toughest…"
buddy uses one in his che**y tube chassy circle racer, good for 500 HP, light, simple.
Just uses 2nd & 3rd.

You been lookin at this vehicle for 9 years Chris !?!
I'd B popped by now! (balloon style)

Have fun B safe AND productive,
Keep us informed as U go...
 
thanks.

yes sir i have. been working on classis since i was 6 (father's 56) spent numerous hours with him. ever try to help a color blind man wire a car with a color coded harness! . now im studing to restore them and already have a job lined up back home. you could say i like classic cars. wouldn't have it any other way.

i'll try to keep Ford six informed.

decided the highway and overdrive was needed so, out with the 3 speed and in with a 5. .... now what to do with the old 3 speeds?
 
Dragonlich1961":3k5723sj said:
out with the 3 speed and in with a 5. .... now what to do with the old 3 speeds?
Click to expand...
Just talkin bout that on nother thread.

Buddy uses one in his tube chassy circle track che**y.
good to 500 HP, light, simple.
He uses 2nd and 3rd (some reverse) only…

Also some guys wanna make their car "as they were" sometimes & need that model U have…

Others - just a boat anchor!
8-0

Mine? - holds the engine to the transfer case and offers different speeds'n feeds for getting the logs up to the band saw mill…
:eek:
:LOL:
 
Just so I have a list of machining needed.
As far as I can tell the block is un molested.
Will a CR of 9.2-9.3 be fine with my desired cam and carb. I know a higher CR could mean detonation.

Bore and turn to true block and crank. Minimum
Install sbf rod bolts.
Zero deck block
3angle valve job plus port work.
Hardened valve seats.
Mill head or block to achieve desired CR.

Some one mentiontion ditching the umbrella seals. Question is why and what is needed to replace with something better.
What is pocket porting?

Am I missing everything?
 
Howdy Chris:

Your plan sounds solid. I would suggest that you have the intake valves back cut @ 30 degrees just above the 45 degree face. The back cut will improve flow at lower valve lifts.

Keep it coming.

Adios, David
 
haven't gotten to do any of the maching yet. i have a question about dizzy's. whats the best place to get a ds2 dizzy. CL had them but thats not going to be an option.
has anybody used the ds2 dizzy from summit. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dui-6 ... refilter=1

i plan on using an msd box for ignition, does anyone have a wiring diagram for a msd ds2 setup with out a ford ignition box.

am i right in asuming that the wiring will be a custom install,( no just order, unbox, and install)

will the dizzy from summit need to be recurved as well or does in come pre-recurverd.

Thanks
Chris
,
 
Regardless of which dizzy you go with, you will definitely benefit from having it recurved to suit your application. I sent mine to Bill, WSA111 on this forum, and it made a huge difference.

The more specs and details you can provide for your build will help get the best result

Good luck with the project :beer:
 
Yes, recurve is kinda after the fact, customizing. "Pre" curve is not gunna happen. Each rig is different. (by CL I guess U mean CI).

I have not used Summit.
I use stock, 'junk yrd' as called around here w/after mrkt or dealer supplied prts. U can get the dizzy - as U will. I took the lill sub harnes from the 'pick'n pull. The coil is off-the-shelf any good quality oil filled coil (U get the "Performance Handbook"?). I liked the ford box 4 reliability, availability & price (others use the MSD). Just get the one w/the blue strain relief @ the spot where the wires come out.

U go Chris - ur gettin there!
 
i don't think junkyard is going to be an option for me. i live in the dc metro splat. if you aren't driving the latest and greatest your looked at funny(Our newest is an 06).

it's hard enough trying to find early 90's parts let alone late 70's. parts are going to be hard to find. i had to drive to north east pa just to find a hood for my 61.

new parts are easier but not cheaper. as for msd my father has no problems with his 327 with one installed, my freinds 78 olds did just fine up until the block ground came loose and the starter amperage went though the msd box.(it wasn't very happy).

next month or so the head and block should be to the machine shop. they will be ordering the rings pistons and bearings. everythign else will be on me.
already have:
timing set(single)
gasket set
oil pump
h-balancer
starter for 8.5 and 9 inch bells
8.5 and 9 inch bells. (plan to use 9 inch)
weber 32/36 2bl

need to order:
Camshaft (comp 260) comes with springs and lifters
T-5(modern driveline)
apropriate bearings rings pistons(machine shop)
New head, main, and rod bolts (perhaps a local friendly speedshop)
waterpump (local)
Dizzy and assosiated parts
Carb adapter(unsure of location to purchase and weather or not i have one)

Thanks
Chris
 
Sounds like it is all coming together.
Will hood clearance be a problem with the Weber and adapter?
 
Queit possible. I know the early ones round body falcons have less hood clearance than later ones and the stangs. So I may have run a low pro air cleaner or route the filter off to the driver side some where
 
looks like ill be dropping the 200 off at the machine shop may 6. Im trying to build a final list of what needs done.

what would the ideal Cr to tell the machinest to shoot for. Should i have the machine shop install the larger 78 style valves or just reuse the ones in my 65 ish head. this is just a mild build. nothing crazy.

My school curently has a 66 ranchero that they are hot rodding. factory engine is a 6cyl. they are going with something in the 8 cyl flavor. what would the factory engine be. i think it's a 177. when they bought the car, the head was off of it because the head was rebuilt but never re-installed. if i'm correct, and if it's a 177, then it would have adjustable rockers, right? i don't think the head will have the chamber volumes and carb bore size for what i want. i'll be checking the head out next week. i just want the rocker assembly off of it.

in order to use the adjustable rockers, i need the pushrods from the donor engine, right? anything else

would it be a fair trade, rebult head with adjustable rockers , for one of the ford 3 speeds i got sitting around. I dont plan on ever using them again. they work but no idea how long or well. only drove the car around the block. the trani will be used as a training aid.

Thanks Chris
 
again, go to the Classic Inlines site to gather info for most the Qs asked above. Peruse the tech section. Do NOT buy anything there as it will "accept" the $ but not ship the parts. Site is getting worked on. Also the "Handbook" is used by many of us here, might wanna get that as well as a Chilton &/or ($60?) a ford shop manuel.
The 'chero had (a 260 bent8 or may B 255?) a 170 (not 177) (200 in '60 - 64 or 5). The '66 wuz an entirely different fella - bigger body & at that time into the muscle car era. 144, 170, 200, 250 have interchangable heads but U don't wanna put a smaller head on a larger motor. Your 200 could do well w/a '77 or later head as they were bigger in valves, hardened seats, larger intake volumn.
 
Thanks for clearing the engine up.
And sorry if I sound like a bumbling fool.
According to CI, with my intake valve closing at 57 and a desired CR of 9.2 it looks like I would need a chamber volume at 50 cc. This is what I would tell the machinist, correct?
I knew the small head would not work. I was hoping it had the rockers but oh well. I know it had a six.

Looks like I should also have the machinist install the 1.75 intake valve from the new style heads. The new valves should fit. Leaving the 1.38 exhaust should be fine since the late model head used the same valves, right?

I'm trying to compile a complete check list for my machinist to use.
Clean block chemical
Clean block machining
Order needed bearings and pistons
Zero deck block.
Mill head for gasket change.
Then mill head to achieve desired CR. I think about 50 cc.
Balance rotating mass, including dampner and clutch.
Install larger intake valve.
Install hardend seats
3 angle valve job with a 30 degree back cut on intake valves
Install new valve seals.

Is there anything I have missed. I've have never done anything that went this far. My previous engine builds with my dad were just a factory buildstyle build.
And I'm not sure if my machinist as done any inline work.

I've never had a problem with his work before.

Thanks again for all the help guys.
Chris
 
i belive it is the matching 1968 head for the block i am using. i have two complete blocks. the head i am using is the 1.75 bore. my second ingine has a 1.5 bore that i am not using.

I haven't been able to find a 78 style head.

Sorry if I'm not entirely accurate, I'm having to go off of memory. I'm in Ohio for college. The engine is sitting at my house back in Va. 300 miles away. Can't really just walk out back and check

Thanks again for the help.
Chris
 
Found out some info on the old gal.
I have a c9 head with a 1.75 bore.
Turns out the engine I pulled out that I thought was a 144 was a 200. It has a c5 head but somebody swaped in a set of OEM adjustable's. Probably off the old engine. And that the c5 head had been rebuilt at some point. At least the seals replaced.
Still having the c9 rebuilt. It's the one being used.

I have a ds2 on the way from bill,(wsa).
 
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