If it was my Mustang I would keep searching for the 1101. If you can find one in good shape even if needs rebuilt it will look stock and the linkage should be the same. Keep checking ebay and some other Falcon, Maverick and Mustang sites.
65 Mustang DD carb and dist. upgrade help
- Thread starter Slobin3d
- Start date
Rock auto has an 1101 listed under 69 4.1 Mustang for $200 including core fee.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1126182&cc=1132388&jsn=420
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1126182&cc=1132388&jsn=420
Here's where I'm at. I picked up a reman Fairmont dizzy, a recurve spring kit, and a falcon6handbook. Picked up a blue strain control box and everything minus a harness to make it work. I rebuilt the 1100 scv carb and did the scv elimination mods.
The carb was severely off, which is surprising since it was one of those $300 send in your core and we'll ship you a rebuilt carbs. The PO had it installed and it never ran, but considering the vacuum pot on the dizzy was bad, and the hard line broke, no wonder.
So I got it all ready to hook up, I'm thinking I should start at 5* initial, and get the carb tuned as best I can, then start tuning the curve on the dizzy. It has the 10/15 plate and is currently set to 10. I replaced the lighter spring with one of the heavier springs in the kit I have. Mine came w/ 6. 2 sets of 3, of varying tension.
First question, is there a simple diagram or instructions to splice in the duraspark box into the existing harness?
Second, is initial 5* correct? Everything I've read says start where your currently at, but mine runs so poorly that doesn't sound like a good baseline.
Third, best way to verify tdc, seeing as its common for the balancers to slip over time., and if it is, how to accurately recalibrate it. Or is a new balancer a must.
Fourth, is there anything I've missed, or flaw in my plans?
Btw. Car is an auto and has power steering
The carb was severely off, which is surprising since it was one of those $300 send in your core and we'll ship you a rebuilt carbs. The PO had it installed and it never ran, but considering the vacuum pot on the dizzy was bad, and the hard line broke, no wonder.
So I got it all ready to hook up, I'm thinking I should start at 5* initial, and get the carb tuned as best I can, then start tuning the curve on the dizzy. It has the 10/15 plate and is currently set to 10. I replaced the lighter spring with one of the heavier springs in the kit I have. Mine came w/ 6. 2 sets of 3, of varying tension.
First question, is there a simple diagram or instructions to splice in the duraspark box into the existing harness?
Second, is initial 5* correct? Everything I've read says start where your currently at, but mine runs so poorly that doesn't sound like a good baseline.
Third, best way to verify tdc, seeing as its common for the balancers to slip over time., and if it is, how to accurately recalibrate it. Or is a new balancer a must.
Fourth, is there anything I've missed, or flaw in my plans?
Btw. Car is an auto and has power steering
RichCreations
Well-known member
Slobin3d":29mzlpf6 said:
I would think you want more initial advance, I am running 14* on mine
2x on the initial advance. Base setting for these engines is 12*. I'm running closer to 16*.
You're right about the balancer. Go ahead and set the mix screw per the instructions. Don't quote me, but I think it2 all the way in (LIGHTLY) then back it out 2.5 turns. This will get you close enough to set base timing.
Since you have an older damper, use the vac guage method to set your initial timing. You can check it with a light afterwords if you're curious. There is a pretty decent writeup in the CI tech pages.
You're right about the balancer. Go ahead and set the mix screw per the instructions. Don't quote me, but I think it2 all the way in (LIGHTLY) then back it out 2.5 turns. This will get you close enough to set base timing.
Since you have an older damper, use the vac guage method to set your initial timing. You can check it with a light afterwords if you're curious. There is a pretty decent writeup in the CI tech pages.
Howdy Back Slobin:
It sounds like you're making progress. Deciding which way to go is hardest.
Damper slip is not common, but it does happen. To be safe, here's a plan for checking. Start by removing all the spark plugs so you can easily turn the engine by hand. Then watch in the number one cylinder for the piston to come to the top. Remember, the #1 piston will come to the top twice per four stroke cycle. Thoroughly clean the timing tab over the damper and find the timing notch on the damper. High light the notch, we use chalk to initially brighten the notch. With the #1 piston at the top the timing mark should be near "0" on the timing tab. If there is no sign of the timing mark (notch) on the damper at or near the zero on the timing tab, rotate the engine until the #1 piston comes to the top a second time. The timing mark should appear near the "0" on the timing tab. If it does not, the outer ring of the damper has slipped and the timing mark (notch) will not be accurate for timing.
If the timing mark comes out at the zero on the timing tab, set the initial advance at 10 degrees before TDC. If the timing mark is NOT near the zero on the timing tab, establish a new timing mark on the damper as described above. The closer the timing mark is to TDC the better. Depending on how bad the damper is this may not be a permanent solution but it can get you going.
I hope that helps to get you going. Keep us posted on your progress.
Adios, David
It sounds like you're making progress. Deciding which way to go is hardest.
Damper slip is not common, but it does happen. To be safe, here's a plan for checking. Start by removing all the spark plugs so you can easily turn the engine by hand. Then watch in the number one cylinder for the piston to come to the top. Remember, the #1 piston will come to the top twice per four stroke cycle. Thoroughly clean the timing tab over the damper and find the timing notch on the damper. High light the notch, we use chalk to initially brighten the notch. With the #1 piston at the top the timing mark should be near "0" on the timing tab. If there is no sign of the timing mark (notch) on the damper at or near the zero on the timing tab, rotate the engine until the #1 piston comes to the top a second time. The timing mark should appear near the "0" on the timing tab. If it does not, the outer ring of the damper has slipped and the timing mark (notch) will not be accurate for timing.
If the timing mark comes out at the zero on the timing tab, set the initial advance at 10 degrees before TDC. If the timing mark is NOT near the zero on the timing tab, establish a new timing mark on the damper as described above. The closer the timing mark is to TDC the better. Depending on how bad the damper is this may not be a permanent solution but it can get you going.
I hope that helps to get you going. Keep us posted on your progress.
Adios, David
Ok, so far everything is pretty self explanatory, this pink resistance wire is getting me though. The way I understand it, the red wire into the DSII needs to connect to a 12v switched source. Do I need to run a wire in the cab, and connect it, or is there another source under the hood I can tap into?
Other issue I'm having is the PO, painted everything black, so no wire colors to look at. I did continuity test the start solinoid wire at the firewall harness and tap in the white wire, for the hot start function.
Other issue I'm having is the PO, painted everything black, so no wire colors to look at. I did continuity test the start solinoid wire at the firewall harness and tap in the white wire, for the hot start function.
All wired up, fired up first crank, faster then my efi truck. Lol. Set the timing to 15* the load o matic dist. Was set at around 30 initial. Runs much better, but seems to still surge right before the shift point. Going to try to richin it up a touch. Also it seems that I'm getting no advance, I ran the engine through a number of rpms with no change in timing. So either it's coming in really early, or the springs are way too stiff?