How to Check if Your Block Has the Appropriate Galleries
The best and most reliable way is
visual inspection with the engine disassembled (which it sounds like yours may be, or will be for the conversion):
- Remove the lifters (or at least pull a few out if they're still in).
- Look into each lifter bore (there are 12 total, 6 per side of the camshaft).Shine a bright light (flashlight or borescope) down each bore. You're looking for a small oil feed hole(typically 1/16" to 1/8" diameter) drilled into the side wall of the lifter bore, usually about halfway down or toward the bottom.
- This hole connects to the vertical oil gallery in the block.
- On hydraulic-ready blocks, every lifter bore should have this feed hole (or at least the majority).
- On solid-lifter-only blocks, many (or all) bores will lack this hole, or it may be absent/restricted/plugged.
- Check the main oil gallery plugs (usually on the side or rear of the block).Some builders report that early solid-lifter blocks have restrictive plugs or shorter-drilled passages in the lifter galleries. You may need to remove the gallery end plugs (often pipe plugs) and probe or blow compressed air through to see if oil can reach the lifter areas freely. If passages are blocked or too short, they may need drilling/extension (a machine shop job).
- Compare to a known hydraulic block (if possible)
ull a lifter from a 1965+ 170/200 or any 250 — the feed holes will be obvious.
- Alternative non-destructive check (if engine is together):With the valve covers and rockers off, you can sometimes pressurize the oil system (using a drill-driven oil pump primer or pre-oiler) and watch for oil squirting from the lifter bores or rocker area. However, this is less precise than disassembly.
If your block
does have the feed holes in the lifter bores, the conversion is straightforward — just install a hydraulic cam + matching hydraulic lifters. No major block machining needed.
If it
lacks the proper galleries:
- Many people still convert successfully using non-oiling (or "FE-style") hydraulic lifters from Clay Smith or similar. These don't rely on the block's pressurized feed to the lifter body itself (they meter oil differently or use splash). Clay Smith specifically sells both "oiling" and "non-oiling" hydraulic lifter sets for the 170/200/250 family.
- You may need to pair them with specific pushrods (sometimes shorter or non-oiling style) depending on your rockers.
- In rare cases, a machine shop can drill the missing passages, but that's more involved and not always necessary.
Other Oiling Tips for the Conversion
- Top-end oiling remains mostly the same: Oil still feeds the rocker shaft via the head passage. Some builders improve it by using a narrower body bolt at the oiling stand or grooving it slightly for better flow.
- Lifter choice matters:
- Standard hydraulic lifters (oiling type) assume full gallery feed.
- Non-oiling hydraulics (Clay Smith 120-1200 or similar) are popular for retrofits on early blocks and work well with adjustable or non-adjustable rockers.
- Prime the lifters before installation (soak in oil or use a pump oiler in the oil hole).
- Use a good break-in oil with high ZDDP for the flat-tappet cam.
- After assembly, prime the entire oil system before starting to avoid dry startup.
Owners on FordSix.com and ClassicBroncos have done this swap on 1963–1965 170s, and the consensus is that
most 1964 blocks will accept hydraulics without issues, especially if it was a passenger-car/Falcon application. If yours came from a heavier-duty vehicle, double-check the bores.
