200 ci w/Holley 1940 gas mileage problems

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I have a 200 eng. with a Holley 1940 carb, Pertronix Ignitor (soon in future: a Flame Thrower Coil to match it), and true dual exhaust. Power steering is connected, but not working presently. The rest is stock. I tested for gas mileage and I only get 13 mpg! What am I doing wrong? Are there carb adjustments or spark plugs or something that I can do to improve it? Any suggestions are appreciated.
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Howdy Spence66six:

More info would be helpful. What trans? What distributor?

For sure-
*make sure you are running 12 to 15 degrees of initial advance.
*make sure there are no leaks, either gas or vacuum.
*make sure your idle and choke are set as low as possible.
*make sure your low speed air screw is properly set.
*avoid cold starts and idling. Use an engine heater to shorten warm up.
*use the lightest weight oil possible.
*make sure your tires are properly inflated.
*make sure your brakes are not dragging and your wheel bearing are lubed and properly set.
*remove all the extra junk, clutter and extra weight you're carrying around.

Just for fun try a before and after test by finding a deserted stretch of road. get your care up to 40 MPH and, using a stop watch, simply put it in neutral and time how long it takes to come to a complete stop. Then do the last three suggestions above and do it again.

The easier it rolls, the better the mileage.

If you have an automatic you can expect 18 - 20 mpg on the highway at 55 mph. With a stick, extect 22 - 24 from a well tuned engine. Expect about half of that around town and with cold starts. If your test included cold starts and town driving you're in the ball park.

Adios, David
 
The transmission is a C4 Auto and I don't know the distributor, it's just stock on a '66 stang with the Pertronix Ignitor in it. My oil is probably way too thick - 20W-50. What's a good weight for oil? Since it's winter most of the start ups have been coldstarts. Most of the driving is mountain driving, up and down and around hills. As for the carb adjustments, my chilton doesn't have the holley 1940 in it. Where would I got for info on that? And lastly, how would you check your degrees of advance with and Ignitor?

Thanks,
Spence
 
Well, Spence, you just answered your own question about your poor fuel economy. You might be able to tweak things a bit and maybe get another couple mpg, but if most of your driving is winter time, cold starts, AND mountain driving, well you may just have to live with what you've got.

David gave you great advice and suggestions, so try them and see if they help. Also, unless you need 20w-50 (can't think of why except high rpm use or generous bearing clearances or a stop gap for bad valve seals) you should change it to 10w-30. IMO, there just isn't a bona fide need for a stock engine to have the heavier weight oil in a daily driver scenario, especially in the winter. The heavier weight oil takes longer to warm up and thin out to it's correct viscosity and that means another tax on your fuel economy. This is especially true if you're using petroleum-based oil.

Where do you live? You mentioned mountain driving, and was curious if that is western US mountains. Also, some states require the use of oxygenated fuel as a means of reducing hydrocarbon emissions during the cold months. You can expect a noticeable drop in fuel economy as a result of this.

While I find it hard to believe I can trade better fuel economy for higher fuel consumption all in the interest of lower hydrocarbons during the cold months, it's what the EPA believes is the right thing to do. :roll:
 
CZLN6":1ueffprq said:
If you have an automatic you can expect 18 - 20 mpg on the highway at 55 mph. With a stick, extect 22 - 24 from a well tuned engine. Expect about half of that around town and with cold starts. If your test included cold starts and town driving you're in the ball park.

really?

wtf am I doing wrong...must be the carb. Must be. I just replaced my vaccum advance which CZLN6 didnt mention. That helped and I got my first tank over 200 miles..but that is still not stellar.

My next step is carb. I am learning sooo much here...but still a good carb tune is something I cant grasp.

Thanks CZLN6 for some GREAT suggestions...never would have thought of wheel bearings.

They are having a FORD festival here in two weeks to celebrate 100 of ford...hoping to get a carb in the flea market...if not...onto the Carb Doc.

still havent decided 1bbl or 2bbl..

does a 2bbl get better gas milage?
 
Hi Chaz,

A 2V can provide get better milage IF the preformance factor doesn't temp you to put foot in it to often.

Basically, 2 bbl carbs come in two versions, progressive and synchronous. With a progressive carb the second throttle plate does not begin to open until the primary is approx 70%. Then, at 100% throttle both are full open. The purpose of this set up is to allow the driver to get the milage of a 1V carb while providing the performance of a 2V when needed / wanted. Another advantage of the progressive set up is that there is no loss of low end torque as a result of reduced intake air velocity. Smaller throat = higher velocity as the demand of the engine (CFM requirement) must pass through a smaller opening (unless, of course, it's too small). In my opinion, you wouldn't want to give up the bottom end on a street car. There is an old saying that I still buy..."you race HP, but you drive torque"...

The more popular progressives being used are the Holley 5200 and the Weber DGV series. As a comparison, the largest of the 200 I6 Autolite 1100's (which is the most common series on the 65 -68 Stang) had a single 1.2" (30mm) throat and a max flow rate of approx 185 CFM (stock car requires a minimum of 175 @ 4000 rpm & 75% VE). The 5200's being used have a 26mm throat and a 27mm throat, i.e. the 26/27. Bottom end velosity is therefor improved, and at the top end this carb flows 270 CFM. This carb will support a 5000 rpm engine with 85% VE (header, ignition, mild cam). The Weber 32/36 has a good bottom end and flows 320 CFM.

Syncro carbs include the Autilite / Motorcraft 2100, the Holley 2300, and the Weber DGE series (the 38/38). The 2100 is available in several versions with varied throat sezes. If you go this way the 1.08 (27/27 - 280 CFM) is the smallest of the series and would probably be the better choice for a street car (best bottom end of the bunch). The rest of the non-progressive choices would be better used on cars with material head and cam changes, at which point one has made the choice to give away the bottom for HP.

A word about mounting. The 5200 and the 2100-1.08 are the larget carbs you can place on an adapter without running into stock manifold carb bore volume issues. That is to say that the area of the 1.50 bore and the 1.75 bore are 1.77 and 2.4, respectively. The throttle bore area of the 5200 and the 2100-1.08 are 1.69 and 1.83, respectively. So, anything larger than these needs to go on a manifold modified for a direct mount if the true potential of the carb is to be achieved.

For my money, the 5200 is hard to beat unless you very serious about improving the VE of these engines. They are inexpensive, easily obtained, and easy to get parts for (tune).

Probably more than you expected, or wanted, but based on your prior carb questions (sounds like you are getting serious) I though more was better.

Enjoy the trip - Steve
 
just a question, would a 5200 not do very well on a stock motor with the stock cam and stock exhaust?
 
Hi RogueS,

A 5200 will work very well on a stock motor. You won't get the second bbl until rpm is high enough to use the flow unless you floor it off the line. If you get some hesitation / stumble off the line you can re-jet to correct. Most of the 5200 users have had to re-jet. It is easy to do. There is a catch, however. The 5200 will not support the dual vacuum advance dizzy. So, a dizzy change will need to be made at the same time if you car has the dual vac set-up. Personally, I like the 68 - 73 dual advance dizzy (vac + mechanical advance) with the Pertronx II ignition upgrade. Also, I eliminate the vac advance system so that I have adsolute control over the advance curve. Very easy to do. If you prefer, you can use the DSII.

Steve
 
i've got the single advance duraspark II so i should be fine
 
that is the most indepth explaination I have ever heard. You really have helped me decide on going with a 5200...plus all the adaptor plates and stovebolt stuff...

Can someone answer me exactly what a dizzy is...Is it another names for the distributor...does it replace the distributor? I know it is used with a DSII...anyone have a picture? please excuse the not-knowing...


I have the Pertronix I...and it is good for now. My main concern now is gas milage..and you all know why...I am still hovering around 15-17 and I realy don't hop on it.*

so again, Thanks Steve...gonnastart looking for a 5200...or save for Stovebolts...how does he sell 'em so cheap?
 
Can someone answer me exactly what a dizzy is...Is it another names for the distributor...does it replace the distributor? I know it is used with a DSII...anyone have a picture? please excuse the not-knowing...


Dizzy =distributor. It doesn't matter if it is a regular, DSI or DSII.
 
Thanks...I missed that class min the tech school you all went to...LOL

I thought so but wanted to be sure...
 
so to put a 5200 on my 68...I need to switch to a single vacuum dizzy (note applied use of learned word) and switch my pertronix I over to it...then I can put in a 5200 with the stovebolt and clifford adaptors?

is there another option and still use a 5200?

Just when I thought I had decided...that adds some bucks to the project...
 
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