All Small Six 200 six close to starting

This relates to all small sixes

adobejoe

Well-known member
Been awhile. I finally today gave it a spin. Put about a gallon of gas in tank, then dribbled some in carburator. Cranked and she was firing briefly, several times!! Think the gas is not through the line yet. Some gas seemed to leak through base of carb into where head bolt top sits. Tightened up base of carb and adapter. Then sparks were showing where I am pointing Right on Throttle linkage arm. Gas and sparks obviously do not mix. Done today. This could be a grounding issue? The block ground on line to alternator as shown in lower right, same picture. Maybe bad contact? Bubba, you still out there?

Adobejoe
 

Attachments

  • 5D31EC3C-4DBA-4D86-8C03-531CED130E84.jpeg
    5D31EC3C-4DBA-4D86-8C03-531CED130E84.jpeg
    3.1 MB · Views: 28
  • 9F3F6B0A-88AA-4FB3-BA48-428959D708B7.jpeg
    9F3F6B0A-88AA-4FB3-BA48-428959D708B7.jpeg
    2.9 MB · Views: 27
Sparks on the throttle linkage is a engine to battery ground issue. Can damage stuff too. Where is your main ground strap from the battery attached? It should be on the engine block. Attached to a starter bolt is ideal.
 
Also, pouring gas into the carb, on an old carb some fuel can seep out the throttle shaft.
 
Reconfigured battery grounding and wired block to firewall. Fuel pump not putting gas through. Will add another gallon to tank and back feed line to carburetor. Dribble into carb and she definately is firing! Pump might be dry.

I noticed a bag of valve stem seals Ina parts kit and now I am nervous that they never were put on valves. I had head reworked with new valves by a third party….an experienced machinist. Should I be worried?

once it is idling I want to check the point gap or dwell..I think should be about 38 deg. Timing should be 12 deg with vacuum lines plugged. Idle about 600 rpm.

getting closer!
 
Hi adobejoe Congrats you have made some great progress and are very close now. Don't worry more than likely the machinist supplied the new Valve Stem Seals when he did the Valve Job which is typical if you didn't give him the set you had.

Basic Stock 1968 Ford 200 Six Tune Up Specs
Plugs BF 82 set at .034
Point Dwell Angle 38 Degrees
Base Timing for an Auto Trans is 12 Degrees BTDC and 6 Degrees BTDC for a Manual Trans
Fuel Pump Pressure is 4 1/2 PSI
Curb Idle for an Auto Trans is 550 RPM with the Trans in Drive With Parking Brake set and Wheels Blocked (or have a Friend Set in the Car with their Foot on the Brakes). For a Manual Trans the Curb Idle is set to 650 to 700 RPM with the Trans in Neutral with Brakes Set as above.

When I do these tune ups I found that doing them in this order was the quickest way to having a good Tune Up
1. Set the Spark Plug gap to the above spec first.
2. Set the Points to the above Dwell Angle Setting after the engine is Running.
3. Set the Base Ignition Timing.
4. Check the choke is operating correctly the Choke Blade when the engine is warmed up good should be fully open with blade centered and pointing exactly straight up.
5. Now with the engine warmed up good and with the choke is wide open, now set the Carbs Mixture Screw Setting to the Lean Best Idle. To do this first set the mixture screw so you have the highest Idle RPM or if you are using a Vacuum Gauge then set it to the Highest Vacuum Reading on your vacuum gauge. Now turn the Mixture Screw inward one 1/4 tuner this is now set to the lean best idle.
6. Last thing to do now is to set the Carbs Curb Idle RPM Spec.

I will also repeat the last two (5 & 6) again just to verify them and see if the setting will change any more for the better. Good Luck
 
I can see in post 114, 200 rebuild steps that umbrella seals have been installed, unless something happened after the pics were put up.
 
Fuel pump not putting gas through. Pump might be dry.
It's exciting to hear one come to life! . . It's not typical but possible the carb needle is stuck shut. Usually they stick open. . Rather than pouring gas in the throat, get a small squirt container and carefully pour several ounces-4-6 oz- of gas into the carb vent into the bowl. This will wet the carb internals, fill the bowl, and will allow it to start and run for 10 seconds or so, giving the pump time to prime. Don't pump the gas when the carb is dry, it will ruin the accelerator pump.
NOTE- be careful with open gas containers near the work area. It's quite possible for the engine to backfire into the carb, you don't want any open pour bottles near the carb.
 
Still not getting fuel. I know I cleaned out lines and blew out with compressed air. Also cleaned out tank pretty thoroughly. I am pretty sure I took that pump apart and replaced filter. I wonder if diaphragm is torn in pump? I think next step is to remove line at pump and blow compressed air back into tank to assure that is open. Then maybe open pump. I looked at parts houses cannot find same style with upright canister. Installed new Pv valve. Last thought. Pump is activated by lobe on camshaft maybe wrong camshaft….seems unlikely
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 5
Check the oil in the crankcase for gas leaking through the fuel pump diaphram & polluting the oil.
 
I pulled the fuel pump and it is dry! I had already put 2-3 gallons in tank and I blew line and could hear bubbles. So I am wondering if the replacement cam shaft does not have lobe? The gas smell on oil dipstick likely what I poured down carburetor throat. Something nutty going on. Can I pre fill pump filter canister with gas, reassemble. Kind of prime it somehow? Not sure what is going on. Maybe put another two gallons in tank?
 

Attachments

  • 3141B25D-1C60-4AE4-A568-D7E6C2E337DF.jpeg
    3141B25D-1C60-4AE4-A568-D7E6C2E337DF.jpeg
    2.8 MB · Views: 7
I pulled the fuel pump and it is dry! I had already put 2-3 gallons in tank and I blew line and could hear bubbles. So I am wondering if the replacement cam shaft does not have lobe? The gas smell on oil dipstick likely what I poured down carburetor throat. Something nutty going on. Can I pre fill pump filter canister with gas, reassemble. Kind of prime it somehow? Not sure what is going on. Maybe put another two gallons in tank?
Yes all the Replacement Camshafts made for these Ford Small Six's will have the correct Fuel Pump Eccentric / Cam on them to operate the Fuel Pump. Yes you could put some gas in the Filter Canister and try priming the Pump by pushing the Fuel Pump lever back and forth. Those two Check Valves are likely dry and maybe stuck from setting along time. Good luck
 
I pulled the fuel pump and it is dry! I had already put 2-3 gallons in tank and I blew line and could hear bubbles. So I am wondering if the replacement cam shaft does not have lobe? The gas smell on oil dipstick likely what I poured down carburetor throat. Something nutty going on. Can I pre fill pump filter canister with gas, reassemble. Kind of prime it somehow? Not sure what is going on. Maybe put another two gallons in tank?
Did you have the pump drive "tucked under" the cam lobe? If you just stick it in, it's not on the camshaft, won't do anything.
 
Never pour gas down the throat, good way to wreak a new rebuild, maybe a squirt. Gas should be funneled into the bowl vent, check progress see if squirter works. Start engine. This is why I like electric fuel pump.
 
Little by little getting there. Fuel pump definitely working now that I pre moistened inner part of pump. Ugh started to fire up this am but I think it is flooded now. Spark seems a bit weak and I set points with feeler gage 0.025 in and I think the timing is 12 deg bedchamber. Maybe I should retard it a bit. Until I get an idle it is hard to confirm timing. Distributer might just need replacing. It has a vacuum line but I think it is mechanical and springs look worn
 

Attachments

  • AF1CA422-9387-42E2-9FFA-E7EDE0E05795.jpeg
    AF1CA422-9387-42E2-9FFA-E7EDE0E05795.jpeg
    2.9 MB · Views: 10
Hi adobejoe, hum this looks like one of the earlier Load O Matic Distributor's, this wouldn't be the right one for use in a 1968 Mustang 200 Six. What Carburetor do you have on the engine?
 
Back
Top