200ci valvesprings

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Hi. going to do up my spare 170 head for my 200 and slot in a new cam at the same time. currently looking at using this cam.

Wade 242a
210/209 @.050"
.426/.422 lift
110 lobe seperation

"Good midrange power
1800-5000"

pretty soft cam, but want to keep it reliable and nice to drive. engine will be fitted with a 350 holley mounted direct to the log and has headers with 2" exhaust.

will the standard springs be up to this cam? I read in another thread you can use 302ci springs on log heads. I have a set of E7TE heads from a 5.0. could i use these springs? the installed height appears to be different.

Im putting it in stock atm to test it all out... heres what she looks like

200in.jpg
 
Standard springs will run out of puff before the cam has peaked IMO. Coil bind should be checked for, at the very least.

I would use Crow's springs. For that matter, I'd use one of their cams, but that is simply personal preference. Got the dual roller timing set earmarked?

Cheers, Adam.
 
whats a new crow cam worth? I can get a wade for $187.00.

what part no. springs do you recommend?
 
FSSP has thier cam kits priced very reasonable. Get the extended package with springs and a new dual roller timing chain.

The 264 is a good choice for a mild cam with good mid range torque.

Just my 2 cents worth.

GT200Z
 
I don't know if you acn use 302 springs but if you could you might look into Comp Cam's Behive springs. The can take higher RPM with less spring pressure than a comparable RPM rated spring.
 
Don't use those springs from the E7TE heads.

With that Wade, or for example Comp Cams 260H or FSPP 264 or such pretty-close-to-stock cam you can go with stock springs, and get them shimmed a little if you'd like (you can find this info from the Falcon Six Perf Handbook by Dennis & David). You could use Comp Cams springs they recommend for their 260H (these will last up to 5200-5300rpm unshimmed - dynoed proof). If you go to FSPP 274 or such then you'll want to have better springs; take a set from FSPP, or for example Sealed Power VS733 springs (a few bucks each in the States) which actually is the 302 exhaust valve spring from around '73-'78 truck 302 (info again in The Book).

You are having nice mods (350 direct mount, headers) so why not go up to FSPP SDS274, it is still very streetable. Add those stiffer springs, back-cut intake valves, and some bowl work and polished & slightly enlargened/raised exhausts and way you go...

Remember; don't go to too stiff springs for the application. You'll just increase wear on your valve train components.
 
thanks 80stang, thats the answer I was after.

I came to this choice of such a small cam because it will be a stock stall auto and will be driven every day by my dad (we're building this falcon up for him). doing the whole project on a very tight budget so I want to avoid spending money needlessly.

The aim of this engine is to make the car keep up with traffic, not win drag races! this is the dyno read out of the old 170/3 speed manual:

dynoxm.jpg


if i can improve that ill be happy!
 
Can you convert that to HP for us? Is that rear wheel dyno numbers or flywheel dyno numbers?

It does look good. I think most people tend to over cam thier cars for every day driving. Your on the right track.
 
1kW = 1.36HP.

What comes to every day cams I'm running FSPP274/110 cam and actually I have reached equal MPG with the current GEN2 setup (and during winter time!) as I did with the previous GEN1 setup, which had Comp Cams 260H. Now with 274 it has at least 90% of the max torgue from around 1600 to around 5000 rpm and I'm just about to advance it 4 degrees, which will even more help low end torgue and MPG. And it is very driveable, and only about 10% less MPG than I ever had with bone stock engine.

I'd say you can pick your cam from what ever up to 274 and still have nice driveability and economy. Having an automatic tranny I'd settle with 264 max but don't know much about those trannys so there are wiser people here to comment on that.

Being so your drawback will be cyl head breathability; your cam, carb, headers are oversized for the head so now everything you can do to improve flow there makes nice gains in your butt-o-dyno.
 
Ill do some home porting on the head when its off. where are the biggest gains to be had?
 
thanks jack.

Is the port divider worth the extra effort? i can make one and weld it in, its just time.
 
Go with a 264-112 dual pattern cam and use the 289 springs which are rated 60/175. But be sure to check for coil bind when using single springs. And, as of last Wed. I now stock both the 289 and 302 springs. Order the dual roller chain for precise cam timing and be sure to degree the cam during installation. For a little more bottom end, install the FSPP cam with 4 degrees of advance.

Note: If you use a cam from Comp, do not advance it when degreeing as they automaticly grind their cams with 4* of advance. This may hold true with other manufacturers as well. However, Clay Smith Cams (FSPP) grinds them straight up.
 
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