221 cam change with head on
- Thread starter Danielson
- Start date
Only with the motor upside down. This is more easily accomplished by removing the engine from the car first. The crank may have to come out to allow withdrawal of the lifters from underneath.
If you've got a leaky rear mains, not as daft an idea as it first seems! Kill two issues at once.
If you've got a leaky rear mains, not as daft an idea as it first seems! Kill two issues at once.
rancheroman
Well-known member
For what it's worth, I did a cam change on my 170 without removing the
cylinder head. I didn't want to 'waste' a steel head gasket , so I
pulled the engine and stood it up on its end and changed the
cam. I pushed the lifters up enough to clear the cam lobes, once the
cam was out, I removed the lifters from the bottom, and installed the
new lifters from the bottom. Buttoned everything back up, reinstalled
the engine, drove 700 plus miles to Maxton and reset the F/GRS record.
I have since changed the cam again, this time leaving the engine in
the chassis, removing the cyl. head, front bumper, ac condenser,radiator
front cover etc. After doing it both ways, I would say it's a toss up as
to which way is easier. I hate working on my back, and I did alot of
laying on my back doing the cam change with the engine in the chassis.
Again after putting the engine back together drove another 700 plus
miles to Maxton and reset the F/GRS record. When I do another cam
change I will probably pull the engine and do it from the bottom. Hope
helps. Paul
cylinder head. I didn't want to 'waste' a steel head gasket , so I
pulled the engine and stood it up on its end and changed the
cam. I pushed the lifters up enough to clear the cam lobes, once the
cam was out, I removed the lifters from the bottom, and installed the
new lifters from the bottom. Buttoned everything back up, reinstalled
the engine, drove 700 plus miles to Maxton and reset the F/GRS record.
I have since changed the cam again, this time leaving the engine in
the chassis, removing the cyl. head, front bumper, ac condenser,radiator
front cover etc. After doing it both ways, I would say it's a toss up as
to which way is easier. I hate working on my back, and I did alot of
laying on my back doing the cam change with the engine in the chassis.
Again after putting the engine back together drove another 700 plus
miles to Maxton and reset the F/GRS record. When I do another cam
change I will probably pull the engine and do it from the bottom. Hope
helps. Paul
Thanks for the replies. I have heard of it being done on a crossflow motor but no lifters were changed. I think a lifter extracting tool was used to lift the lifters up enough for them to stay in place while the cam was removed and replaced. With my XW it would not take long to remove the grill and radiator but I have heard that lifters should be changed when changing a cam . Is it crucial that the lifters be changed or can I shortcut this step ?? Also will a reground cam work as well as a new cam and what are the shortfalls .
Regards Daniel
Regards Daniel
Lifters should be changed. Bushies still linish old lifter bases by eye and put them back in, get another 20-30K miles out of them, but it's not good practice.
For cams - depends on cost; see what Crow have to say for regrind vs new. One benefit of regrinding is the dizzy gear usually matches better.
For cams - depends on cost; see what Crow have to say for regrind vs new. One benefit of regrinding is the dizzy gear usually matches better.
