All Small Six 223 Cylinder Head Questions

This relates to all small sixes
Road_Tripper

Road_Tripper

New member
Hi, new to this site. Have a 62 f100 unibody with a 223. It smokes pretty bad, but has good oil pressure, thinking head might need rebuilt, but was wondering if it might be cheaper to buy a rebuilt one (saw one on ebay for $500)

Wanted to ask this group if its a good price also wanted to know what year heads fit a 1962 223 and is there a list of codes I can use to find one?

Thanks!
 
Hi, run a compression test with the engine warmed up. If the #s are good you probably need valve stem seals. If the #s are low, put 2 squirts of engine oil into each cylinder and repeat the compression test. If the #s go up, the rings are leaking and the oil sealed them. If the #s do not go up, the valve guides are worn. Good luck
 
Using the good information above, by all means find out what's wrong with it before you start replacing parts. A nice fresh cylinder head on top of worn or broken rings will make matters worse. Do a compression test and come on back with the numbers. One of the many knowledgeable folks on here will help you interpret them.

Lou Manglass
 
Road_Tripper said:
Hi, new to this site. Have a 62 f100 unibody with a 223. It smokes pretty bad, but has good oil pressure, thinking head might need rebuilt, but was wondering if it might be cheaper to buy a rebuilt one (saw one on ebay for $500)

Wanted to ask this group if its a good price also wanted to know what year heads fit a 1962 223 and is there a list of codes I can use to find one?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
To directly answer your question, C2 through C4 dated heads will work. POSSIBLY C1, I can't remember if it was 61 or 62 that they switched from a 2 bolt valve cover to an 8 bolt perimeter cover. Your umbrella seals could be bad and your valve guides could be worn. If it were me, I'd just take the head to a machine shop and see what they think. Mill off .030" to bump your compression up somewhat if you want. Have them install hardened seats and maybe have the head machined for new valve guises (I did bronze.) It would probably cost less money in the short run to just rebuild the head. Make sure you use a STOCK .019" STEEL SHIM gasket, NOT the .045" FelPro otherwise you will lose compression and increase quench area to abysmal proportions, like, .095"!! Stock pistons are down in the hole .050" unless the block has been decked before....detonation city! Ideally your quench (distance between the top of the piston amd the bottom of the head) the should be .035" or so. The only way I was able to achieve that with stock flatop rebuilder pistons was with a .055" block deck which popped my pistons out .005" and I used the Fel Pro gasket (more readily available.) But I have 10:1 compression, a HEI, lots of timing, cam fuel etc lol.
 
I ended up just taking the head off and am digging into it. Is this normal or do I need valve guides? They all have this divit at the top

Also..found out the exhaust manifold is cracked....anyone repop them?
 

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Your valve guides look oval to me.
If that is the case, you need guides.

If the manifold isn't cracked too badly it could be brazed, or it could be a fine excuse to get headers,
 
I know someone that may have an exhaust manifold, it’s from a ‘61, let me know I could find out how much he wants for it?
 
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